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General chat thread... Links, pictures, banter etc

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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,459 ✭✭✭zubair


    Did they need to make much of an adjustment?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,935 ✭✭✭TallGlass


    Simona1986 wrote: »
    I had been looking around for somewhere to check & adjust valve clearances on my SV650. Most places didn't seem interested, suggesting I left it alone or telling me the next workshop slot they had was in a month. Ended up going with megabikes (who I've not used before other than to buy some stuff) and was pretty happy. They're open late on Thursday so handy to leave the bike into them, they were in touch with me during the work and gave me a good run down of the work they did when collecting it again. A little on the expensive side but good service and everything documented on a receipt send via email.
    No connection, just reporting decent service


    Genuinely interested in why you wanted to check this? I know it's in service manuals to check, it's also in car manuals do you get it checked on your car (if you have one).


    Personally I would leave well alone unless something is up down there. You'd nearly be better off rebuilding the engine you'd have that much off?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,819 ✭✭✭Alkers


    zubair wrote: »
    Did they need to make much of an adjustment?

    Four new shims anyway, he gave me the figures but I haven't got them on me now.


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,819 ✭✭✭Alkers


    TallGlass wrote: »
    Genuinely interested in why you wanted to check this? I know it's in service manuals to check, it's also in car manuals do you get it checked on your car (if you have one).
    The suggested interval is 24,000km or every two years. Bike is up at 85,000km now and is 13 years old. This is the third time I've had them checked, no adjustments needed the first time but has been adjusted the other two times.

    I have a diesel campervan and it's not in the user manual to check, it may be in a workshop manual but I've not got one. Bike is my primary means of transport to and from work etc so I need it to be reliable.
    TallGlass wrote: »
    Personally I would leave well alone unless something is up down there. You'd nearly be better off rebuilding the engine you'd have that much off?
    It was sounding a bit tappety but that could have just been me knowing that it was overdue. I do my own servicing normally and only use a shop if I need chain and sprockets or the clearances checked so I'm happy to pay for it every few years for piece of mind.


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,772 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    TallGlass wrote: »
    Genuinely interested in why you wanted to check this? I know it's in service manuals to check, it's also in car manuals do you get it checked on your car (if you have one).


    Personally I would leave well alone unless something is up down there. You'd nearly be better off rebuilding the engine you'd have that much off?

    You better get them checked at intervals as it ensures the engine is healthy.

    Mine need doing i can tell by it that its not running as efficiently as it once was. im blaming tolerances.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    A lot of cars now have hydraulic tappets, self adjusting. I think HDs do too...

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,202 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    TallGlass wrote: »


    Personally I would leave well alone unless something is up down there. You'd nearly be better off rebuilding the engine you'd have that much off?

    That wouldn't be a good idea.
    If the gap gets bigger you'll have a rattling engine and if the gap for the exhaust valves get less you'll burn the valves.
    Much better to keep them in spec.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,202 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    A few bits arrived for my brother's R1 that got knocked over 2 weeks ago.
    A few more to come though.
    I got roped into ordering the parts and I'll be fitting them as well.

    oanigi.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    Yes! Car oil can cause clutch slip on bikes, because most bikes have a wet clutch which sits in oil, and a lot of car oils have additives to reduce friction as much as possible to save a bit of energy, that's a problem for a wet clutch where you want plenty of friction :)

    Also (like an old Mini) the gearbox shares the engine oil, and usually manual gearboxes run in quite thick oil, too thick for an engine but it stands up better to the shearing loads of the gear teeth. On a bike, the engine oil has to be able to cope with running through the gearbox, and this tends to break down the oil faster (it loses viscosity.) Much less of a problem with fully synthetic oils I've heard, but still. Most people would change their oil every 4-6000 miles or so.

    I'd imagine that engine was designed with fully synth bike oil in mind, it'd probably be fine on a good semi-synth provided you didn't push your luck on changing it regularly.




    Be careful, easy to shear off a pad pin or something by overtightening, but can't be too loose either...



    Triumph Sprint ST but it's a 12Ah battery which would be typical of a large range of bikes. €80 is a lot, presuming that the battery is easy to get at.




    It makes the fully synth pretty good value, and the semi-synth not good!




    I'd rarely go to them at all, it's just because it was handy for me to get to yesterday that I looked them up. I've had good value in the past ordering from motorcycleshop.ie but I couldn't wait around for delivery of the battery.

    I wouldn't be in a rush for the parts if i ordered them online truthfully speaking i have only ridden the bike once since replacing the oil cooler, the weather being a major factor, i won't ride it in rough or wet weather.

    In relation to the oil, motorcycleshop.ie quote me for castrol oil, 10w40 at that, i assumed this was car engine oil as i have used the same stuff on my car in the past.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,426 ✭✭✭ZX7R


    blade1 wrote: »
    That wouldn't be a good idea.
    If the gap gets bigger you'll have a rattling engine and if the gap for the exhaust valves get less you'll burn the valves.
    Much better to keep them in spec.

    I agree with blade on this, when I am buying a second hand bike it's one of the first questions I ask ,has the value shims been done at the proper service period,I know it can be expensive to get a mechanic to do, but I am of the opinion of the onwer neglected to do this what else did they neglect on the bike


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  • Registered Users Posts: 22,050 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    TallGlass wrote: »
    Genuinely interested in why you wanted to check this? I know it's in service manuals to check, it's also in car manuals do you get it checked on your car (if you have one).


    Personally I would leave well alone unless something is up down there. You'd nearly be better off rebuilding the engine you'd have that much off?

    Ah here.

    "Valve adjustment or full engine rebuild, Sir?"

    "Just adjust the valves, thanks."

    Not your ornery onager



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    Winter storage - interesting topic. Looking at today's weather it's a bit early to put it away though.

    Coolant. It's possible to test the specific gravity of the coolant - with a little syringe/dropper gizmo.

    ACF50 is more for on the road protection I think. If you might use the moto for a few runs by all means apply it. Otherwise I think I'd use Scotoiler FS365 or similar. Forget wd40.
    Bike should be clean and dry first obvs.
    Good clean and polish to fork stantions and any chrome. Rear shock rod too.

    Stuff a rag in the air intake to keep out any wee beasties. (Don't forget it next Spring.)
    Remove the battery and keep it in the house with the occasional trickle charge
    Do NOT start the engine and let it run for 10mins every fortnight to "warm it up". Take it out for a proper spin or leave it be 'til March.

    Cover it. But if the garage is damp give it an airing and dry the cover regularly.
    Keep the wheels off the ground if you have a main/paddock stand
    Deflate the tyres a little - only if they're off the ground. (Not sure how benefitial that is to be honest.)
    Lube the chain.
    Prise the pads off the disks slightly. Just slightly - you dont want dirty pistons retracting into calipers

    Possible additional tasks:
    Clean and grease the calipers and pistons.
    Electrolytic grease on the connectors? Probably a bit OTT.

    Must look into that with the coolant.

    Is scotoiler some sort of spray onto the chain?

    ACF50 was recommended to me by a biker who is at it years, he said to use it due to the few patches of paint peel/surface rust i have, i have since cleaned and painted these in hammerite, looks good as well.

    After having heated grips, 12v usb are these connected to the battery usually? I haven't checked since they were fitted. I will take the battery out i would say.

    The rag is a new one, never heard of that before.

    I have an oxford aquatex cover on it around the clock when not in use.

    The bike has a main stand, the rear is off the ground but the front isn't and the ground where it sits is susceptible to water when the rain falls.

    Chain was greased heavily when purchased in July, 1000 miles done since then, would you still recommend i lube it again while in storage?

    What type of grease is that for the connectors?

    I have learned overnight that my bike originated in Sheffield, would this cause concern for many? that place us full of hills. It doesn't bother me personally though, i've checked one or two sites in the UK using the old reg, all it tells me is the tax/mot expiry and that there is an export marker on it, i did a cartell check here prior to buying it anyway. Just curious to learn as much as i can about bike maintenance and the bike i have in general.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,426 ✭✭✭ZX7R


    Must look into that with the coolant.

    Is scotoiler some sort of spray onto the chain?

    ACF50 was recommended to me by a biker who is at it years, he said to use it due to the few patches of paint peel/surface rust i have, i have since cleaned and painted these in hammerite, looks good as well.

    After having heated grips, 12v usb are these connected to the battery usually? I haven't checked since they were fitted. I will take the battery out i would say.

    The rag is a new one, never heard of that before.

    I have an oxford aquatex cover on it around the clock when not in use.

    The bike has a main stand, the rear is off the ground but the front isn't and the ground where it sits is susceptible to water when the rain falls.

    Chain was greased heavily when purchased in July, 1000 miles done since then, would you still recommend i lube it again while in storage?

    What type of grease is that for the connectors?

    I have learned overnight that my bike originated in Sheffield, would this cause concern for many? that place us full of hills. It doesn't bother me personally though, i've checked one or two sites in the UK using the old reg, all it tells me is the tax/mot expiry and that there is an export marker on it, i did a cartell check here prior to buying it anyway. Just curious to learn as much as i can about bike maintenance and the bike i have in general.

    Acf50 can be used for storage protection and for everyday riding during winter or summer.
    I use all year round brilliant stuff I apply 3 time's a year more often on parts that get more splash back from the roads.
    A hose down with water is enough to keep clean once acf50 is applied.
    Don't spray on dicks or pads


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    ZX7R wrote: »
    Acf50 can be used for storage protection and for everyday riding during winter or summer.
    I use all year round brilliant stuff I apply 3 time's a year more often on parts that get more splash back from the roads.
    A hose down with water is enough to keep clean once acf50 is applied.
    Don't spray on dicks or pads

    Thank you for that :)

    What i was told is to rub it on with a cloth on all metal panels except the calipers,discs,pads as you say.

    I need to polish it before covering it up for the winter season anyway.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    Must look into that with the coolant.

    Is scotoiler some sort of spray onto the chain?

    ACF50 was recommended to me by a biker who is at it years, he said to use it due to the few patches of paint peel/surface rust i have, i have since cleaned and painted these in hammerite, looks good as well.

    After having heated grips, 12v usb are these connected to the battery usually? I haven't checked since they were fitted. I will take the battery out i would say.

    The rag is a new one, never heard of that before.

    I have an oxford aquatex cover on it around the clock when not in use.

    The bike has a main stand, the rear is off the ground but the front isn't and the ground where it sits is susceptible to water when the rain falls.

    Chain was greased heavily when purchased in July, 1000 miles done since then, would you still recommend i lube it again while in storage?

    What type of grease is that for the connectors?

    I have learned overnight that my bike originated in Sheffield, would this cause concern for many? that place us full of hills. It doesn't bother me personally though, i've checked one or two sites in the UK using the old reg, all it tells me is the tax/mot expiry and that there is an export marker on it, i did a cartell check here prior to buying it anyway. Just curious to learn as much as i can about bike maintenance and the bike i have in general.

    The FS365 I mentioned is a protective spray made by Scotoiler. For the bike in general, not he chain. But ACF50 is good stuff . Go with that if you prefer. Brushing with a paint brush for good coverage after spraying-on is what I did.
    I meant just lube the chain once before putting the bike in storage.
    Batteries don't like the cold so it will fare better in the house.
    Don't worry about greasing the elec connectors . I was getting carried away.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,426 ✭✭✭ZX7R


    Thank you for that :)

    What i was told is to rub it on with a cloth on all metal panels except the calipers,discs,pads as you say.

    I need to polish it before covering it up for the winter season anyway.

    Heat the can in a jug of hot water ,first as it does not spread well when cold,use a small peace of sounge to get to arkward bits,us on plastics also makes them shine up nicely


  • Registered Users Posts: 22,050 ✭✭✭✭Esel


    ZX7R wrote: »
    Acf50 can be used for storage protection and for everyday riding during winter or summer.
    I use all year round brilliant stuff I apply 3 time's a year more often on parts that get more splash back from the roads.
    A hose down with water is enough to keep clean once acf50 is applied.
    Don't spray on dicks or pads

    :)

    Not your ornery onager



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Is scotoiler some sort of spray onto the chain?

    It's a company which makes a Scotoiler automatic chain oiler, which (once you get it set up right) is absolutely fantastic and allows you to be completely lazy about chain maintenance while also allowing it to last twice as long.

    They also make Scotoil F365 which is corrosion preventative stuff that you spray all over the bike (except dicks :p )
    After having heated grips, 12v usb are these connected to the battery usually? I haven't checked since they were fitted. I will take the battery out i would say.

    If you take the battery out they won't work, and nothing else will either :confused:

    USB? You will not be running heated grips off a USB connection, wrong voltage and a fraction of the required current.
    What type of grease is that for the connectors?

    Silicone grease. It's a good idea if disturbing an electrical connector to put some of this stuff into the connector before reconnecting it. Keeps out moisture and stops connectors oxidising. I wouldn't go as far as disconnecting things I didn't need to just to apply it though.
    I have learned overnight that my bike originated in Sheffield, would this cause concern for many? that place us full of hills.

    I presume you're not taking the piss. No it won't. Bear in mind an SV650 has performance equal to a sportscar, a Fireblade or R1 or S1000 to a supercar. They require a similar amount of care and attention. It's just that the two wheeled equivalent of a supercar is a fraction of the price to buy (not necessarily run or insure.)

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    It's a company which makes a Scotoiler automatic chain oiler, which (once you get it set up right) is absolutely fantastic and allows you to be completely lazy about chain maintenance while also allowing it to last twice as long.

    They also make Scotoil F365 which is corrosion preventative stuff that you spray all over the bike (except dicks :p )



    If you take the battery out they won't work, and nothing else will either :confused:

    USB? You will not be running heated grips off a USB connection, wrong voltage and a fraction of the required current.



    Silicone grease. It's a good idea if disturbing an electrical connector to put some of this stuff into the connector before reconnecting it. Keeps out moisture and stops connectors oxidising. I wouldn't go as far as disconnecting things I didn't need to just to apply it though.



    I presume you're not taking the piss. No it won't. Bear in mind an SV650 has performance equal to a sportscar, a Fireblade or R1 or S1000 to a supercar. They require a similar amount of care and attention. It's just that the two wheeled equivalent of a supercar is a fraction of the price to buy (not necessarily run or insure.)

    Might look into that scotoil stuff as well then, obviously i won't use it for dicks :pac:

    No no, what i meant was, i'm unsure can i remove the battery due to the extra wiring attached to it for the usb port & grips, i think it was onto the battery lugs they put them, if so i'm not so sure would i chance removing them, had a bad experience once with a car battery in that regard. I don't meant running one off the other, they were both fitted at the same time and i was told it will probably be the battery connections they are wired to, but i haven't even looked. They work perfectly though :D

    Is the silicone grease similar to what is used on the electrics of boats and that? There is a spray i heard of in union chandlery i think it is called.

    No no i'm genuinely not taking the piss, the reason i mention that is because i am a touring coach driver/guide and the horror stories about stuff coming from Sheffield isn't nice, as the terrain there is quite bad in places.

    Thank you for taking the time to reply to me :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    ZX7R wrote: »
    Heat the can in a jug of hot water ,first as it does not spread well when cold,use a small peace of sounge to get to arkward bits,us on plastics also makes them shine up nicely

    Never heard of this one before :confused:


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    The FS365 I mentioned is a protective spray made by Scotoiler. For the bike in general, not he chain. But ACF50 is good stuff . Go with that if you prefer. Brushing with a paint brush for good coverage after spraying-on is what I did.
    I meant just lube the chain once before putting the bike in storage.
    Batteries don't like the cold so it will fare better in the house.
    Don't worry about greasing the elec connectors . I was getting carried away.

    Which would you go for or which would you recommend?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,882 ✭✭✭frozenfrozen


    Fs365 is ****e


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    Fs365 is ****e

    ACF50?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,882 ✭✭✭frozenfrozen


    ACF50?

    Acf50 good fs365 ****e


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,208 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Just replaced my battery the other day. Negative terminal has main negative wire and two ring terminals, positive terminal has main positive wire and three ring terminals! It makes it a bit tricky to engage the bolt into the square nut inside the battery terminal, but once tightened up it's fine.

    I wouldn't use silicone spray inside electrical connectors, but silicone grease from a tub or tube. You could, I suppose, use silicone spray on the outside of the connector if you wanted but I don't think it would add anything.

    A 600cc sportsbike with rider has a power/weight ratio of about 480hp/tonne, a few hills isn't going to stress that :)

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12,202 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    ACF50?

    Don't forget XCP rust inhibitor or I've used one of these in the past and found it excellent although the zipper needs to be closed delicately.
    Has a built in rust inhibitor.
    https://www.louis.ie/artikel/louis-vci-corrosion-protection-folding-garage/10008312


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    blade1 wrote: »
    Don't forget XCP rust inhibitor or I've used one of these in the past and found it excellent although the zipper needs to be closed delicately.
    Has a built in rust inhibitor.
    https://www.louis.ie/artikel/louis-vci-corrosion-protection-folding-garage/10008312

    That thing looks somewhat interesting, is the material similar to say a rubber dinghy or similar? That's the impression i get from looking at it, reasonable priced as well.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,202 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    That thing looks somewhat interesting, is the material similar to say a rubber dinghy or similar? That's the impression i get from looking at it, reasonable priced as well.

    No, it's just plastic but it's durable enough.
    But the zipper is terrible.
    The least bit of pressure on it and it will come off.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    blade1 wrote: »
    No, it's just plastic but it's durable enough.
    But the zipper is terrible.
    The least bit of pressure on it and it will come off.

    Do you still have your one or did the zipper give way? Might take a chance on one.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 12,202 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Do you still have your one or did the zipper give way? Might take a chance on one.

    I still have mine.
    The zipper came off but I put it back on.
    It's kinda more like a sandwich bag sealer more than a zipper.
    You just have to make sure it is sealed properly when storing your bike or it defeats the purpose.

    You'll feel a kind of a static off the inside of it.
    I think that's the rust inhibitor.
    That eventually wears off if you keep removing the bike from the bag.
    You can buy refills of what I did was I bought some 400g bags of orange coloured silica gel.
    I threw a bag of that into it.
    I had zero moisture,mould or corrosion on the bike after the winter.
    There is another similar product on the market called a Vac-Bag.
    It is more expensive,harder to get the bike into,tears easy and not as good as keeping moisture out.

    My shed suffers from moisture in the winter so I've gone through a few different ways of keeping everything dry.
    Last year I bought this :)

    28annmt.jpg

    Are you storing your bike inside or out.


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