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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,929 ✭✭✭D3V!L


    Emmersonn wrote: »
    Would'nt have believed a BMW could do that kind of speed and not disintegrate. :D

    I've had mine up to 200+ , two up with luggage.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,128 ✭✭✭Emmersonn


    D3V!L wrote: »
    I've had mine up to 200+ , two up with luggage.
    And you are alive to tell the tale. ;)
    Definitely one of the lucky ones. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,882 ✭✭✭frozenfrozen


    Looks like a fine road to only be 60kmh. Presume the reduced limit is to do with the cycle lane, not really a safety issue since motorbikes give good space to cyclists...

    Breaking the speed limit sure but not worthy of posting on Twitter


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Looks like a fine road to only be 60kmh. Presume the reduced limit is to do with the cycle lane, not really a safety issue since motorbikes give good space to cyclists...

    Breaking the speed limit sure but not worthy of posting on Twitter

    Where he is stopped is the Irish school.

    It's 60km/h till after fox rock.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,101 ✭✭✭Max Headroom


    Where he is stopped is the Irish school.

    It's 60km/h till after fox rock.

    Great stretch..when you come up the dip you can lift the front till the lights...:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,212 ✭✭✭Goose81


    Dunno how he got caught , I drive 100k on that road every day in the bus Lane and they have been there few times, you can see them so far ahead you can slow down before they can get you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Goose81 wrote: »
    Dunno how he got caught , I drive 100k on that road every day in the bus Lane and they have been there few times, you can see them so far ahead you can slow down before they can get you.

    They park on onbound slip so catch from behind also.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,212 ✭✭✭Goose81


    They park on onbound slip so catch from behind also.

    I dunno any time I've seen them on that slip they have the gun pointing towards stillorgan in the evening and I'm coming from town, tbf I'd imagine my plate is far too small to read so don't slow down when I pass them on that side maybe I'll start


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Goose81 wrote: »
    I dunno any time I've seen them on that slip they have the gun pointing towards stillorgan in the evening and I'm coming from town, tbf I'd imagine my plate is far too small to read so don't slow down when I pass them on that side maybe I'll start

    What I mean is they will be on say where the hotel was which is now student accommodation pointing gun out from traffic heading out away from them and the city.

    Just be careful as they will chase you down.


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,365 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Weather turns cold and guess what, my battery has decided to die :(

    Almost got stuck last Friday night because I had to stop twice on the way home to fill up and then vote, I'd been using the heated grips too instead of putting my winter gloves on. Outside the polling station it was *chug*chug*chug* oh f**k... didn't help that the heated grips came on with the key because I'd forgotten to turn the switch off... after pulling out the fuses for the lights (no light switch on this bike :rolleyes: ) and waiting about 15 minutes it finally started. I'd even given it a trickle charge a couple of nights earlier because it seemed a bit low, but guess what, my charger decided to die at the worst possible time, too :rolleyes:

    Gave it a few hours on the car charger yesterday which should have been enough to get it through today, and it was, but not being sure if you'll be stuck in an underground car park with a flat battery isn't nice

    Looking around Halfords is surprisingly the cheapest, I'd already arranged a day off for tomorrow so I'll head over there, they have a decent price on 4 litres of oil too so I reserved that online as well.

    Only checked now but the battery is 5 years old, if you'd asked me on Friday night I'd have said at most three.

    I've always recommended the cheap €10 Lidl chargers and when they work they're great, but I've now had two of them die on me without warning in the last two years, when they have the €20 in next I'll be getting one. The car charger I have is too powerful to leave connected to the bike overnight.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 24,878 ✭✭✭✭arybvtcw0eolkf


    Emmersonn wrote: »
    Would'nt have believed a BMW could do that kind of speed and not disintegrate. :D

    I've wheelied mine faster :D


  • Moderators, Motoring & Transport Moderators Posts: 2,957 Mod ✭✭✭✭macplaxton


    I've always recommended the cheap €10 Lidl chargers and when they work they're great, but I've now had two of them die on me without warning in the last two years

    Fixed the switch mine. Piece of cake if you're handy with a soldering iron.


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,823 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Weather turns cold and guess what, my battery has decided to die :(

    Almost got stuck last Friday night because I had to stop twice on the way home to fill up and then vote, I'd been using the heated grips too instead of putting my winter gloves on. Outside the polling station it was *chug*chug*chug* oh f**k... didn't help that the heated grips came on with the key because I'd forgotten to turn the switch off... after pulling out the fuses for the lights (no light switch on this bike :rolleyes: ) and waiting about 15 minutes it finally started. I'd even given it a trickle charge a couple of nights earlier because it seemed a bit low, but guess what, my charger decided to die at the worst possible time, too :rolleyes:

    Gave it a few hours on the car charger yesterday which should have been enough to get it through today, and it was, but not being sure if you'll be stuck in an underground car park with a flat battery isn't nice

    Looking around Halfords is surprisingly the cheapest, I'd already arranged a day off for tomorrow so I'll head over there, they have a decent price on 4 litres of oil too so I reserved that online as well.

    Only checked now but the battery is 5 years old, if you'd asked me on Friday night I'd have said at most three.

    I've always recommended the cheap €10 Lidl chargers and when they work they're great, but I've now had two of them die on me without warning in the last two years, when they have the €20 in next I'll be getting one. The car charger I have is too powerful to leave connected to the bike overnight.

    Get a relay for the heated grips don't take then directly off the battery.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,676 ✭✭✭Gavin


    listermint wrote: »
    Get a relay for the heated grips don't take then directly off the battery.

    The issue was that they were pulling additional current that the starter needed when the ignition was pressed, not that they were left on and drained the battery.


  • Registered Users Posts: 33,823 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Gavin wrote: »
    The issue was that they were pulling additional current that the starter needed when the ignition was pressed, not that they were left on and drained the battery.

    They wouldnt be on if it had a relay.

    They would be off on every single ignition.

    I have my Oxfords on a relay, and they are turned off by the relay and only come on once i action the press for heat. so its purposeful action.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    Weather turns cold and guess what, my battery has decided to die :(

    Almost got stuck last Friday night because I had to stop twice on the way home to fill up and then vote, I'd been using the heated grips too instead of putting my winter gloves on. Outside the polling station it was *chug*chug*chug* oh f**k... didn't help that the heated grips came on with the key because I'd forgotten to turn the switch off... after pulling out the fuses for the lights (no light switch on this bike :rolleyes: ) and waiting about 15 minutes it finally started. I'd even given it a trickle charge a couple of nights earlier because it seemed a bit low, but guess what, my charger decided to die at the worst possible time, too :rolleyes:

    Gave it a few hours on the car charger yesterday which should have been enough to get it through today, and it was, but not being sure if you'll be stuck in an underground car park with a flat battery isn't nice

    Looking around Halfords is surprisingly the cheapest, I'd already arranged a day off for tomorrow so I'll head over there, they have a decent price on 4 litres of oil too so I reserved that online as well.

    Only checked now but the battery is 5 years old, if you'd asked me on Friday night I'd have said at most three.

    I've always recommended the cheap €10 Lidl chargers and when they work they're great, but I've now had two of them die on me without warning in the last two years, when they have the €20 in next I'll be getting one. The car charger I have is too powerful to leave connected to the bike overnight.
    I didn't find Halfords have much stuff dedicated solely to bikes, the little area they have is fairly bare, any idea what the batteries are like with them? Some of the Lidl stuff isn't bad in my experience.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    Guys could I ask your opinion on something?

    Locking the bike away next week for the winter, I don't know the service history on it despite buying it from a dealer who deals primarily in Suzuki & Yamaha, or at least that's the theory.

    When I got the bike it was clean, polished and had an oil & filter change, probably rather stupidly I never asked were the air filter, spark plugs & coolant all done.

    Would it be advisable to change these before locking it away?

    Also has anyone used ACF50? Is this available in motor factors?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,246 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Change the oil and filter.
    Everything else can wait until you take it out of storage.
    Use copper grease on the spark plug threads when doing them.
    Actually, check the plugs beforehand incase of any corrosion seeing as there was other bits corroded.
    The front one probably gets exposed to the wet a bit.
    I haven't used ACF50 myself so can only go on what I've heard which would be all good.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    blade1 wrote: »
    Change the oil and filter.
    Everything else can wait until you take it out of storage.
    Use copper grease on the spark plug threads when doing them.
    Actually, check the plugs beforehand incase of any corrosion seeing as there was other bits corroded.
    The front one probably gets exposed to the wet a bit.
    I haven't used ACF50 myself so can only go on what I've heard which would be all good.

    Change the oil & filter again anyway? mind you when the cooler split the oil didn't look as clean as i thought it would for a bike that has done less than 1000 miles since purchase.

    Do a full service on it essentially?

    Looking up youtube video's i need to take off the tank, or lift it up a bit, no better time to start learning :pac:


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,246 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Not really a service.
    I'd prefer to have fresh oil in a bike when storing it.
    The old oil may have moisture in it so better off not having that left inside the engine.
    If you are changing oil may as well change the filter.
    And I say to check the plugs for oxidisation as you had a bit of corrosion to deal with lately.
    Just incase,if there is any on the plugs,it's better to sort it sooner rather than later as it will be harder to get them out without doing damage the longer they are left.
    If the last person put copper grease on the threads they will be fine.
    They are probably ok but no harm checking them.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 34,365 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    I didn't find Halfords have much stuff dedicated solely to bikes, the little area they have is fairly bare, any idea what the batteries are like with them?

    I got a Yuasa battery for €74 and 4 litres of Castrol Power 1 Racing fully synth for €48. Liffey Valley, reserved online. Battery comes filled and charged but I gave it a bit of a top up anyway. Sticker on it says it was filled in August 2018

    I reserved the semi synth Power 1 by mistake, look nearly identical, they let me swap it on paying the difference ... €2.60!?!!?!

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 34,365 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    blade1 wrote: »
    Change the oil and filter.

    Combustion creates acids and moisture in the oil, if it's going to be sitting around unused for months best to have fresh oil sitting there. Some people change it on taking the bike out of storage too.

    UK has, or is going to, go to 10% ethanol in all petrol and this causes more problems in storage. Fill the tank right up (to exclude moist air) and put in a fuel stabiliser additive.

    Or, just ride it, it's not as if we're in Finland.

    Use copper grease on the spark plug threads when doing them.

    Check what the workshop manual says. If it gives a torque figure for dry threads and you apply that torque figure to greased threads, you will over-tighten the plug and risk damaging the head.

    Manual for my bike says to go in dry, as it were ;)

    Never heard of anyone having difficulty removing a plug that wasn't well over-torqued when it was put in.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    I got a Yuasa battery for €74 and 4 litres of Castrol Power 1 Racing fully synth for €48. Liffey Valley, reserved online. Battery comes filled and charged but I gave it a bit of a top up anyway. Sticker on it says it was filled in August 2018

    I reserved the semi synth Power 1 by mistake, look nearly identical, they let me swap it on paying the difference ... €2.60!?!!?!

    That's not bad at all, the price of the battery, use Castrol myself on the car.

    Is there a specific type of oil for bikes? Have no idea what i need for the DL, i'm looking around a few sites at the moment for bits to buy, i'll change out the pads as well after a few youtube lessons, otherwise i'll end up spending a fortune on workshop labour. I can change everything bar an engine and gearbox on a car, time i started learning ho to do it on a bike where possible.

    Forgive me for asking, but what kind of bike have you :o The reason i ask is so i can understand battery prices, i was charged €80 for one supplied and fitted recently from a guy for my 50cc scooter.

    Sure €2.60 is only pocket change, you wouldn't even notice it missing.

    Would you be the kind of guy who sticks to Halfords where possible for bits or would you go to the likes of XL Moto?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,246 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Combustion creates acids and moisture in the oil, if it's going to be sitting around unused for months best to have fresh oil sitting there. Some people change it on taking the bike out of storage too.

    UK has, or is going to, go to 10% ethanol in all petrol and this causes more problems in storage. Fill the tank right up (to exclude moist air) and put in a fuel stabiliser additive.

    Or, just ride it, it's not as if we're in Finland.




    Check what the workshop manual says. If it gives a torque figure for dry threads and you apply that torque figure to greased threads, you will over-tighten the plug and risk damaging the head.

    Manual for my bike says to go in dry, as it were ;)

    Never heard of anyone having difficulty removing a plug that wasn't well over-torqued when it was put in.
    Yeah most of the NGK plugs are pre-treated.
    I have seen a seized plug though due to water.
    I use various greases on different bolts on the bike and would just torque to 1or 2 nm less because of the grease.
    A dab of grease won't make a huge difference.
    Never an issue so far touch wood.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    blade1 wrote: »
    Not really a service.
    I'd prefer to have fresh oil in a bike when storing it.
    The old oil may have moisture in it so better off not having that left inside the engine.
    If you are changing oil may as well change the filter.
    And I say to check the plugs for oxidisation as you had a bit of corrosion to deal with lately.
    Just incase,if there is any on the plugs,it's better to sort it sooner rather than later as it will be harder to get them out without doing damage the longer they are left.
    If the last person put copper grease on the threads they will be fine.
    They are probably ok but no harm checking them.
    Looking at the K&N filters, the ones you can tighten/Loosen with a socket wrench? they seen like the perfect job, the one currently on it doesn't have that.

    I'd say i'll be heading out on it early next week to get a gear position indicator
    fitted to it, other than that she is being locked away until March.

    What are the best plugs to get? NGK/Champion etc?

    I have no service history with it bar MOT reports from the UK, where it was very well looked after. From June 2016 to July 2017 i have nothing at all, so the spark plugs in it could be either 4 months or 2 and a half years old. It starts first go every time but i just want to look after it and am willing to give it whatever it needs.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,001 ✭✭✭ayux4rj6zql2ph


    blade1 wrote: »
    Yeah most of the NGK plugs are pre-treated.
    I have seen a seized plug though due to water.
    I use various greases on different bolts on the bike and would just torque to 1or 2 nm less because of the grease.
    A dab of grease won't make a huge difference.
    Never an issue so far touch wood.

    What i am seeing in the video's so far is copper grease on the plugs like you say blade1 and also being told put them on the pads, just like you would for a car?

    If my oil cooler was fcuked from corrosion i can expect the front plug as you mentioned to be problematic possibly.

    Jasus lads ye are a world of knowledge, thank you. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 34,365 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    Is there a specific type of oil for bikes? Have no idea what i need for the DL

    Yes! Car oil can cause clutch slip on bikes, because most bikes have a wet clutch which sits in oil, and a lot of car oils have additives to reduce friction as much as possible to save a bit of energy, that's a problem for a wet clutch where you want plenty of friction :)

    Also (like an old Mini) the gearbox shares the engine oil, and usually manual gearboxes run in quite thick oil, too thick for an engine but it stands up better to the shearing loads of the gear teeth. On a bike, the engine oil has to be able to cope with running through the gearbox, and this tends to break down the oil faster (it loses viscosity.) Much less of a problem with fully synthetic oils I've heard, but still. Most people would change their oil every 4-6000 miles or so.

    I'd imagine that engine was designed with fully synth bike oil in mind, it'd probably be fine on a good semi-synth provided you didn't push your luck on changing it regularly.

    i'll change out the pads as well after a few youtube lessons

    Be careful, easy to shear off a pad pin or something by overtightening, but can't be too loose either...
    Forgive me for asking, but what kind of bike have you :o The reason i ask is so i can understand battery prices, i was charged €80 for one supplied and fitted recently from a guy for my 50cc scooter.

    Triumph Sprint ST but it's a 12Ah battery which would be typical of a large range of bikes. €80 is a lot, presuming that the battery is easy to get at.

    Sure €2.60 is only pocket change, you wouldn't even notice it missing.

    It makes the fully synth pretty good value, and the semi-synth not good!

    Would you be the kind of guy who sticks to Halfords where possible for bits or would you go to the likes of XL Moto?

    I'd rarely go to them at all, it's just because it was handy for me to get to yesterday that I looked them up. I've had good value in the past ordering from motorcycleshop.ie but I couldn't wait around for delivery of the battery.

    Fingal County Council are certainly not competent to be making decisions about the most important piece of infrastructure on the island. They need to stick to badly designed cycle lanes and deciding on whether Mrs Murphy can have her kitchen extension.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,996 ✭✭✭two wheels good


    Winter storage - interesting topic. Looking at today's weather it's a bit early to put it away though.

    Coolant. It's possible to test the specific gravity of the coolant - with a little syringe/dropper gizmo.

    ACF50 is more for on the road protection I think. If you might use the moto for a few runs by all means apply it. Otherwise I think I'd use Scotoiler FS365 or similar. Forget wd40.
    Bike should be clean and dry first obvs.
    Good clean and polish to fork stantions and any chrome. Rear shock rod too.

    Stuff a rag in the air intake to keep out any wee beasties. (Don't forget it next Spring.)
    Remove the battery and keep it in the house with the occasional trickle charge
    Do NOT start the engine and let it run for 10mins every fortnight to "warm it up". Take it out for a proper spin or leave it be 'til March.

    Cover it. But if the garage is damp give it an airing and dry the cover regularly.
    Keep the wheels off the ground if you have a main/paddock stand
    Deflate the tyres a little - only if they're off the ground. (Not sure how benefitial that is to be honest.)
    Lube the chain.
    Prise the pads off the disks slightly. Just slightly - you dont want dirty pistons retracting into calipers

    Possible additional tasks:
    Clean and grease the calipers and pistons.
    Electrolytic grease on the connectors? Probably a bit OTT.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,906 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    blade1 wrote: »
    Yeah most of the NGK plugs are pre-treated.
    I have seen a seized plug though due to water.
    I use various greases on different bolts on the bike and would just torque to 1or 2 nm less because of the grease.
    A dab of grease won't make a huge difference.
    Never an issue so far touch wood.

    NGK have a bulletin about using anti-seize on plugs.
    https://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,824 ✭✭✭Alkers


    I had been looking around for somewhere to check & adjust valve clearances on my SV650. Most places didn't seem interested, suggesting I left it alone or telling me the next workshop slot they had was in a month. Ended up going with megabikes (who I've not used before other than to buy some stuff) and was pretty happy. They're open late on Thursday so handy to leave the bike into them, they were in touch with me during the work and gave me a good run down of the work they did when collecting it again. A little on the expensive side but good service and everything documented on a receipt send via email.
    No connection, just reporting decent service


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