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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,010 ✭✭✭high horse


    Could always wrap it in clingfilm if you need to leave it on for a while and you're worried about it drying out. People do it all the time with gel-based rust inhibitors and rust converters.

    I would expect the clingfilm to be dissolved by the tar remover. I could be wrong as I've never used this product


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,379 ✭✭✭yannakis


    How do you guys attack bugs at the front bumper? Especially after they go all dry after a week of holidays and driving around.

    I did snowfoam, rinse, snowfoam, rinse, wash, rinse.. but they're still visible in the end. Have to hold myself back not to scrub it any harder. Any chemicals or combos that make these bug guts and brains go away?


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    yannakis wrote: »
    How do you guys attack bugs at the front bumper? Especially after they go all dry after a week of holidays and driving around.

    I did snowfoam, rinse, snowfoam, rinse, wash, rinse.. but they're still visible in the end. Have to hold myself back not to scrub it any harder. Any chemicals or combos that make these bug guts and brains go away?

    Gtechniq Bug Remover
    CarPro Bug-Out
    ADBL Beetlejuice

    All products sepcifically for this job.

    Alternatively, soak a number of microfibre cloths with water and/or shampoo and leave them on the areas where the bugs are for about 20 minutes. This will soften them up and make them easy to just wipe off.

    Snowfoam etc. doesn't have the staying power needed to effectively soften them up whereas the mf cloths hold the water for as long as needed.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,951 ✭✭✭cena


    Gtechniq Bug Remover
    CarPro Bug-Out
    ADBL Beetlejuice

    All products sepcifically for this job.

    Alternatively, soak a number of microfibre cloths with water and/or shampoo and leave them on the areas where the bugs are for about 20 minutes. This will soften them up and make them easy to just wipe off.

    Snowfoam etc. doesn't have the staying power needed to effectively soften them up whereas the mf cloths hold the water for as long as needed.

    Angelwax Revenge Bug & Insect I find the best


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,951 ✭✭✭cena


    Has anyone used plumbers putty as a clay bar?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    cena wrote: »
    Angelwax Revenge Bug & Insect I find the best

    I haven't used that but have used the ones I mentioned above.
    cena wrote: »
    Has anyone used plumbers putty as a clay bar?

    Forensic detailing channel on youtube as reviewed it. It doesn't have the same abrasive qualities as regular clay that are needed to pull out the contamination and you need to work it more. Also it disintegrates much faster.

    Not recommended in my opinion and is a false economy.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    I don't get people wanting to use plumbers putty as clay, clay isn't that expensive around €13 depending on brand. I only clay my car twice a year, if your worried about cost and usage maybe using a clay mitt or cloth might be better


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    PsychoPete wrote: »
    I don't get people wanting to use plumbers putty as clay, clay isn't that expensive around €13 depending on brand. I only clay my car twice a year, if your worried about cost and usage maybe using a clay mitt or cloth might be better

    As I said, a false economy. If you clayed half a panel with normal clay and "clayed" the other half with plumber's putty you'd notice the difference immediately and have to go over the putty side with the real clay.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    The A6 was looking a bit sorry for itself for the last while so over the last week I've wet sanded a few marks and gave the whole a machine polish, applied some gyeon can coat,gyeon rim,gtechniq g4 and gtechniq c1. It's never looked as good, left it in the shed over night. I leave it outside Tuesday evening, got up Wednesday morning and the car plastered in bird sh!te, it's almost like they know!


  • Posts: 14,344 ✭✭✭✭ Rex Magnificent Shortbread


    ba_barabus wrote: »
    Heavy tar removal, petrol seems to be the only thing that shifts it or is there a better way?


    Does petrol work well for tar removal?


    I've some tar cleaner there, and although it's making an effort, it kinda just 'fizzles' the tar spots enough that they run down, and leave streaks, on the car. I end up having to try and pick them off with my finger nails. :o


    Does petrol do a decent job of it? Or is much the same? I presume you just pour some petrol on a cloth, put it halfway into a bottle, ignite and throw?


    (seriously though, i presume you just apply it with a cloth and rub it about a bit? then when the tar's gone, give it a rinse? :confused:)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Does petrol work well for tar removal?


    I've some tar cleaner there, and although it's making an effort, it kinda just 'fizzles' the tar spots enough that they run down, and leave streaks, on the car. I end up having to try and pick them off with my finger nails. :o


    Does petrol do a decent job of it? Or is much the same? I presume you just pour some petrol on a cloth, put it halfway into a bottle, ignite and throw?


    (seriously though, i presume you just apply it with a cloth and rub it about a bit? then when the tar's gone, give it a rinse? :confused:)

    Tar X or the stuff mentioned above, spray jet wash off and repeat if necessary....
    That's if you don't want etc marks or swirls....

    Anything you need to rub isn't strong enough.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    First use of my DA polisher today. Used it to restore the headlights on a 98 MX5 with a red fine polishing pad and Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800. Came up a treat, or so I thought. Went and washed the car after and after drying it find streaks and a bit of cloudiness.

    Now I had sprayed ADBL Beetlejuice on the front and left it to dwell for maybe 20 mins before rinsing. Is that likely to have dried in and caused it or is there something else I did wrong?


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,415 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    How bad was the clouding on the headlights?

    If it was bad then the Menzerna will only have removed some of it, and if not too bad the Menzerna (however fine) may have added to the issue). If it (the fading on the headlight) is too bad then it'll need wet sanding. Also try get and use a dedicated headlight compound such as Meguiars Headlight X, and a good sealant (as the sanding/compounding/polishing process can remove the UV protection off the headlight).

    When I done mine, I washed them after the sanding and they went from clear to a milky/cloudy finish. Used the Headlight X, in alternating/overlapping pattern like compounding a car, and then used Holts headlight sealant.

    Went from this:

    556317.jpg

    To this:

    556318.jpg
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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,723 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    First use of my DA polisher today. Used it to restore the headlights on a 98 MX5 with a red fine polishing pad and Menzerna Super Finish Plus 3800. Came up a treat, or so I thought. Went and washed the car after and after drying it find streaks and a bit of cloudiness.

    Now I had sprayed ADBL Beetlejuice on the front and left it to dwell for maybe 20 mins before rinsing. Is that likely to have dried in and caused it or is there something else I did wrong?

    I recommend wet sanding with a semi fine grade, then a fine grade and then the polisher.

    You'll feel the cloudiness smooth out of it under the sand paper


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    This is the before and what I thought was after, but now sounds like it's not.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Other side before polishing


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,415 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    The other side before polishing picture shows there is bad clouding. It'll need sanding as the Menzerna is not able to remove that level of fading on its own.

    You can get an AutoGlym, Holts, Meguiars, etc. headlight restoration kit for between 20 to 30 quid.

    In it you get a cloth, varying grits of sandpaper, a polishing head, headlight restoration compound and in some a sealant. The sandpaper is fine. It starts from about 400 and goes up to 2000 depending on kit.

    The key point with sanding is never go the same direction when changing grit of sandpaper. So if you go top to bottom with the 400, you go side to side with the 600, then top to bottom with the 800, and so and so forth with the 1200, 1500, and finally 2000. Make sure to use plenty of water with a small bit of soap/fairy liquid or some other agent to make the water soapy. This will act as a lube and keep the headlight well wetted as you work.

    Don't rush this part. Like body prep for painting if you get "lazy" and don't do as long with each grit of sandpaper you'll end up with scratches, or improperly done parts. Once the sanding is done you rinse off the headlight and move to the compounding.

    A D/A polisher is not really needed, and I see by your headlights you have the same problem I had with my A6, room. A narrow light is a pain in the backside. Use the polishing head attachment that comes with the kit and a cordless drill. Load the pad, then use a few drops of compound. Spread it around the headlight well, and once spread get to work on the compounding/polishing. Work in slow, steady alternating patterns of top to bottom, then side to side (while going from top to bottom). Same as you did for the sanding. A quick misting of water will help keep the compound from drying out, but don't soak it, just a quick squirt from a spray bottle of water will do.

    Don't overwork the compound. Wipe off with a clean microfibre, and start again. I had to give mine three to four applications and remember that the compound is a fine grade of sandpaper in liquid form so it will scratch if held too hard or too long on the one spot.

    Once you're happy its done, wipe with microfibre to remove any residue, and apply the sealant. Wipe off the excess with a fresh micrfibre and job done.

    It took me about 35 to 45 minutes per side for my Vectra due to how bad the headlight were. So its not a ten minute job, and it helps to turn the car out of direct sunlight.
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    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    That's brilliant - thanks a million. I actually have a headlight restoration kit I got from in2detailing but there's enough for doing I think 4 cars and once it's opened the sealant has to be used, so I'll have to line up a few cars to do together.

    https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/products/detailing-kingdom-ruv-250ml-part-1


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    I bought the Shinemate EP803 kit for doing headlights, as it came with 3 backing plates,two extension bars and 36 pads. I bought sanding discs to make life easier and so far it's been an excellent little machine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 738 ✭✭✭Movie Maestro


    Hey guys, does anyone know where I can buy hose attachments for a Parkside PHD 150 F4 pressure washer please? The two I have are broken :(


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  • Registered Users Posts: 738 ✭✭✭Movie Maestro


    Hey guys, does anyone know where I can buy hose attachments for a Parkside PHD 150 F4 pressure washer please? The two I have are broken :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    I think the parkside and lavor are the same


  • Registered Users Posts: 738 ✭✭✭Movie Maestro


    PsychoPete wrote: »
    I think the parkside and lavor are the same

    Any idea on the best place to get the hose attachments?


  • Registered Users Posts: 77 ✭✭Manutd623


    Hi all, can anyone recommend a good store or brand on aliexpress for detailing stuff mainly microfiber cloths?

    Thanks in advance


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,756 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    God I hate birds. Washed one car today. Went into the shed to get the drying towel. Came out to find some ba$tard of a bird dive bombed the bonnet.....


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,378 ✭✭✭JoeA3


    Hi lads,
    I'm hoping to take delivery of a new car later in the summer. Its a few years since I bought any detailing gear, I need to dust off the cobwebs on stuff I already have in the garage but I'm sure I need a few new bits!

    I'm just wondering where's the go-to place now for good stuff and value for money? Are there any Irish suppliers still going? I've forgotten the ones I used to use tbh.

    Basic stuff I'd need to get:
    - a decent wash mitt (or 2)
    - couple of good drying towels
    - tar remover

    Beyond that, whats the recommendation these days in terms of sealants / waxes? The car will be silver metallic if that makes much difference.

    Cheers!


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    JoeA3 wrote: »
    Hi lads,
    I'm hoping to take delivery of a new car later in the summer. Its a few years since I bought any detailing gear, I need to dust off the cobwebs on stuff I already have in the garage but I'm sure I need a few new bits!

    I'm just wondering where's the go-to place now for good stuff and value for money? Are there any Irish suppliers still going? I've forgotten the ones I used to use tbh.

    Basic stuff I'd need to get:
    - a decent wash mitt (or 2)
    - couple of good drying towels
    - tar remover

    Beyond that, whats the recommendation these days in terms of sealants / waxes? The car will be silver metallic if that makes much difference.

    Cheers!

    I would suggest getting it treated from new, ask dealer to leave stickers, not wash etc....
    Bring to a detailer and ceramic coating.
    He/she will obviously have to decontaminate, clayetc etc before also.

    This in turn makes it much easier to clean and if cared for right you would be getting a year or a bit more out of the protection from it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,378 ✭✭✭JoeA3


    Yeah I’ve been down that road before and not that inclined to do so again. Those kind of services seem to be gone mental expensive too and I’m not convinced it’s worth that outlay… I’m happy enough to DIY it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 103 ✭✭Big Daddy Kane


    Hi all, was quote 190e for a full valet and machine polish and wax.

    Does that seem okay price or are they having a laugh?

    Company in question seem to have good reviews and regular updates on social media etc..


    "Hi,
    Full car valet with one stage machine polishing and coat of hard shell wax could cost 190€ .
    Price can be confirmed"


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    What's the best way to clean and protect chrome trim?


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