Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on [email protected] for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact [email protected]
Please note that it is not permitted to have referral links posted in your signature. Keep these links contained in the appropriate forum. Thank you.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules

Detailing chat

1201202204206207214

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭Hebegeebee


    After the snow foam, I’d personally go straight to the decon stages without doing a wash.
    Depending on the tar remover you’re using you might need to dry the car before you apply that - some won’t work well with a wet car. When the tar remover has worked, rinse off.
    As with the tar remover above, you might need to dry the car before you apply the fallout remover. Let that do it’s thing and rinse.
    Then I’d wash and see how it all looks. You might need to repeat one or both of the above again if there are some tar/fallout remaining.
    Once it’s clean, then move on to the claying step and once that’s done, then wash as per the rest of your steps.


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Hebegeebee wrote: »
    After the snow foam, I’d personally go straight to the decon stages without doing a wash.

    That's all well and good if you plan to rinse the tar remover and/or iron remover off. If you have agitate then you're rubbing dirt and grit all over the paint, especially along the bottom half of the car.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,884 ✭✭✭DuckSlice


    That's all well and good if you plan to rinse the tar remover and/or iron remover off. If you have agitate then you're rubbing dirt and grit all over the paint, especially along the bottom half of the car.

    Thats a good point, the car will still be dirty after the snowfoam.


  • Registered Users Posts: 252 ✭✭Hebegeebee


    Fair enough but I never do that. Why would you want to agitate the tar remover or fallout remover?? Apply enough and they’ll both do their thing without you having to touch the paint.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    If your using the solvent tar removers they'll dry in so you'll have to agitate which is perfectly fine to do. I think the first step should be washing the car before moving onto decontamination


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    Anyone recommend somewhere to buy bulk general microfiber cloths?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,135 ✭✭✭Stallingrad


    PsychoPete wrote: »
    Anyone recommend somewhere to buy bulk general microfiber cloths?

    If in no hurry then Aliexpress is hard to beat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,233 ✭✭✭✭Jim_Hodge


    PsychoPete wrote: »
    Anyone recommend somewhere to buy bulk general microfiber cloths?

    Amazon do lots of 10, 25, & 50.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Question: my son has a 06 A3 in red. There's a load of small white spots on the roof in particular. They don't feel like contamination/paint - even a fingernail doesn't catch on them, nor can I feel them with my fingertip - so what are they and how can they be removed?


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,477 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    Looks like that roof was painted pretty badly and the clear coat is peeling


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Really? The spots don't seem to be open / perforated at all, though there's a fair bit of lacquer peel elsewhere.


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,052 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Hardly bird poop is it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Mickeroo wrote: »
    Hardly bird poop is it?

    As in spots bleached by bird poop? Doubt it. They're generally very small.


  • Registered Users Posts: 831 ✭✭✭JamBur


    I would agree with the earlier post suggesting clear coat failure.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,647 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    JamBur wrote: »
    I would agree with the earlier post suggesting clear coat failure.

    Yes I'd second that, red is terribly bad for this ...


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Thanks folks. TBH, I did suspect / fear that that was what the answer was going to be. I was hoping it was a superficial bleaching effect that might be polished out, but it doesn't seem likely.

    I'm guessing the only route to reinstating it would be to strip and relacquer - correct? I'd imagine he'll get a wrap put on it before he does that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,593 ✭✭✭Northern Monkey


    I’ve no idea how good of bad this new design is but this seems like a good price for the Nilfisk core 125 on Amazon £40.39.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08KYHZ7HP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_MXA429FS1NYE44VTJX46

    Edit: Back to £90 now


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,415 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Dilbert75 wrote: »
    I'm guessing the only route to reinstating it would be to strip and relacquer - correct? I'd imagine he'll get a wrap put on it before he does that.

    Would an entire car wrap not be more expensive, or at worse the same price, as a full "re-coating"?
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    There's no such thing as recoating a lacquer layer. The whole panel would have to be sanded down, primed, repainted and relacquered.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    There's no such thing as recoating a lacquer layer. The whole panel would have to be sanded down, primed, repainted and relacquered.

    Really? :o


  • Advertisement
  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,415 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    There's no such thing as recoating a lacquer layer. The whole panel would have to be sanded down, primed, repainted and relacquered.
    Never said to recoat the lacquer layer, only. Might seem that way due to the sentence structure. Recoating means to apply a fresh coat of paint, lacquer, etc. to something.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Cass wrote: »
    Never said to recoat the lacquer layer, only. Might seem that way due to the sentence structure. Recoating means to apply a fresh coat of paint, lacquer, etc. to something.

    Sorry Cass, my post was in reply to Dilbert, not you.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,415 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Sorry, it was under my post so i thought it was for me.
    Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County

    If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.

    Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo



  • Registered Users Posts: 4,724 ✭✭✭Dilbert75


    Thanks for the replies, folks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 51,042 ✭✭✭✭bazz26


    Any recommendations for a machine polisher? This will purely be for me on my own car rather than for professional work. I presume dual action is better than a standard polisher?


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,474 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    bazz26 wrote: »
    Any recommendations for a machine polisher? This will purely be for me on my own car rather than for professional work. I presume dual action is better than a standard polisher?

    Das6 pro. with some hex pads.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,872 ✭✭✭garo


    Yet another bird**** sad story. Car got shat on all over by birds a couple of days ago. Did the full snowfoam plus shampoo plus wax. The poop is off but I can still see the dull marks on the paint. Almost as if the bird **** is bonded to the paint. Tried a tar and glue remover but no joy. Any idea how I can those stains off?


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    garo wrote: »
    Yet another bird**** sad story. Car got shat on all over by birds a couple of days ago. Did the full snowfoam plus shampoo plus wax. The poop is off but I can still see the dull marks on the paint. Almost as if the bird **** is bonded to the paint. Tried a tar and glue remover but no joy. Any idea how I can those stains off?

    That will need to be compounded out with a polishing machine.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,872 ✭✭✭garo


    Ugh! Thanks for that. I'll probably wait for a full detailing then as there are a few minor scratches and stone chips I want to get taken care of too.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 1,872 ✭✭✭garo


    I am a bit puzzled why certain bird poops leave marks while others come off easily with no traces left. I usually use Carnuba wax but the last time used the quick detailing spray after the wash. Would that have made a difference? Does the wax protect while the detail spray just shines? I suppose the exact composition and exposure to sun after the incident probably also has an impact. A black car does get very hot these days in the sun.


Advertisement