Repairable Dripping Atomiser (RDA)

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

in your rda?

could be from the heat, it does change the colour of some juices and mesh does get damn hot

derra

Most likely as a result of oxidising the mesh.

In the Line for example, there is only need to oxidise the top part of the mesh as the rest is submerged in liquid in the tank.

If ya oxidise the part of mesh that goes into the tank the liquid changes colour, if ya don't oxidise that part the liquid would more or less stay the same colour.

You have to oxidise all the mesh for the RDA so the liquid would change colour.

Green Hornet

Righto. Nothing to worry about then. Does it always go off colour or just when new? Doesn't affect flavour anyway.

I'm delighted with a hybrid wick. 2 strands of 1mm wick wrapped in oxidised mesh, 2.5 ohm coil.

How long will that last or is it a case of dry burning every few days and it lasting for ages?

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

no idea with hybrids.. a regular ss mesh oughta last months apparently... i guess with the mesh protecting the silica it should last almost as long?

Green Hornet

That's my thinking too. The wick is protected by the mesh so it should hold up well.

Green Hornet

I got a clear body for the Clockworks RDA. I can see how much juice is in there now so I don't need to be guessing. Only 4 euro from Clockworks.

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

does it look ****ing awesome?

I bet it looks ****ing awesome

Green Hornet

Looks good alright. Only thing is that my juice is constantly going dark with the mesh. Very handy to be able to see what's in there. Kind of cool looking at the mist created in there when firing too!

I've a tie wrap on it too and I move it over the hole when not using it. Seals well with the polycarbonate body actually.

Green Hornet

Pulled out the auld Clockworks RDA today and fitted a mesh wick and 0.2 kanthal giving 1.6 ohms.

My experiences getting the VH genesis to work came in useful and I was able to make a really good coil and wick.

I'd forgotten how good a vape it is. Forgotten how much of an animal on juice it is too.

unblvlblkult

Hi Folks
I decided I'd invested in a phoenix clone recently as all I seem to be using anymore is 306's. I'm having awful touble getting any kind of consistancy in performance. so many problems with it.
Firstly it leaks like a pensioner. I put an old O-ring at the bottom cennection and that's impprooved that situation a bit.
Secondly and most importantly quality and flavour of vapour is all over the place. Typicall it doesn't perform ok unless I've just filled it (10 drops say) and then only for a couple of draws after that I get ok hit followed by dry hit followed with yuck where's that metalic taste coming from. If I take the tip out the well might look close to empty but taking the body off results in the disappeared juice running down the inside of the main body and all over my fingers. it's as if the juice is climbing the walls of the main body to get away from teh coil. so frustrating wanted to see how I got on with re-buildables before investing in something nice. Any advice for me or suggestions what I might be doing wrong

Using this on a twist btw; same performance at any voltage.

Also where does one purchase wire and wick material?

Thanks!!

republic of goon

how are u holding it not completely horizontal?

Green Hornet

There's a guy based in Iteland that sells the wick. He sells it on eBay or I can get his email address for you next week. It's good quality wick actually. I think it's about 7.50 for 10m.

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

http://www.ebay.ie/sch/andrey36101/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

unblvlblkult

republic of goon wrote: »

how are u holding it not completely horizontal?

Not at all, but surely I don't need to keep it 100% vertical either? Have kinda given up on it now and back to the 306. Very disappointed

Green Hornet

I know I'm like a broken record but the Clockworks RDA is one of the best things I've bought vaping wise.

It's so easy to rebuild and is extremely forgiving if you are just learning. The chamber is huge and there's a heap of room to put the coil into place. It holds about 20 drops.

You can use either silica or mesh and there's never any wicking problems whatsoever.

A lot of those new dripper options out there look better visually but they are a hell of a lot more fiddly.

grindle

RDA seconded.

Kind of strange if the Phoenix was leaky from the start, and I found the vapour and flavour fantastic. Are you building the coil towards the airhole, and making sure to keep the airhole upwards?

When I filled it, it'd easily last for a cig's-worth.

Only problem is the movable positive post eventually becomes too movable and the connection gets fiddly with contact and leaks very slightly.

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

tbh I found the bulli a2 classic way more forgiving than the RDA

with the RDA I either got it working amazingly, or I was horribly unsatisfied with it. there was no middle ground


ill have to send it back to clockworkds to get repaired, but ill leaver it till the new year.. hes probably swamped with xmas stuff atm and i'd rather it not get forgotten about

Green Hornet

Funny thing is that I couldn't get the Bulli Classic working at all.....it's gas isn't it?

stevenmu

I've found the airhole position on Clockworks RDA very unforgiving. Tweaking that even a tiny amount can make the difference between a mediocre vape and an amazing one.

unblvlblkult

Haven't re-built yet tbh just using coil it came with. Keep hole upwards that's good to know. Not really leaking from there tho. Leak is where main body screws into base or just above. There is a slight gap there must get the pliers out and give it a quick squeeze

grindle

unblvlblkult wrote: »

Haven't re-built yet tbh just using coil it came with. Keep hole upwards that's good to know. Not really leaking from there tho. Leak is where main body screws into base or just above. There is a slight gap there must get the pliers out and give it a quick squeeze

Jesus, rebuild it. The coil that came with mine was one of the worst things I've ever tasted. Ever.

I'd plump for an O-ring before pliers - if anything gets damaged things might snowball.
Plus with an O-ring you can position the airhole in front of the coil properly. The threads on these clones tend not to line up perfectly with where the coil goes.

unblvlblkult

Ok so re--build is a must first off. Must get materials so. What wire is best for something in the 1.8-2.4 Ohm range (3-4 winds to a coil would it be?) gap occurs between threaded inner sleeve and outer sleeve of main body. Hard to describe exactly. Will have a look at it properly before ding anything drastic though.
Thanks for the advice.

Green Hornet

Use the link given by Digby for the wick. It's good stuff and 10m will last you for months and months. Believe it or not though, you will actually run out at some stage! You'll get next day delivery on it.

I don't think he supplies wire though. I got some 0.2 and 0.15 kanthal with my Bulli but it would be too expensive to buy it from Bulli with the shipping cost. I think wires.co.uk supply wire and cheap. If you're stuck I can send you a bit of 0.15 to get you started? I tend to use mostly 0.2 these days cos I think it gives better flavour.......might be all in my head though.

I'd probably start with 5 turns. Heat the wire with a lighter before winding. It takes some of the springiness out. Use 4 strands of wick and a thin needle to support the wick and wind the wire 4 or 5 turns around the wick. Make sure it's wound fairly tight. If not it will not be in contact with the wick when you take the pin out after attaching to the atty and the flavour will be off. This should be okay as a starting point and you can try different amounts of wick or turns until you find what suits you after that.

It would be great if some of the Irish suppliers would start to sell wick and wire but the market probably wouldn't support it yet.

grindle

unblvlblkult wrote: »

Must get materials so. What wire is best for something in the 1.8-2.4 Ohm range (3-4 winds to a coil would it be?)

I've some .15 Kanthal if you want to PM your address, but it's not ideal for low ohm builds.

3.25cm makes a 2.4ohm coil. I barely managed to squeeze three coils out of it just there - not much leg-room.
.20 Kanthal would be ideal as you'd have 5cm to play with to make a 2ohm coil.

I'd save the money on wick by using cotton pads.

Edit:Weird boards spaz-out. Straaaannnnnnge.

unblvlblkult

Thanks so much folks for all the advice. Will look into ordering that stuff now.

unblvlblkult

Any of these suitable wire?

http://radionics.rs-online.com/web/p/multicore-industrial-cable/7496335

http://www.maplin.co.uk/28swg-resistance-wire-2196

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

http://electra-pipes.com/en/16-mesh-kanthal-glass-fiber

wire here

wick there too but never used it so can't comment on what it's like

nichrome/kanthal is pretty much nichrome/kanthal wherever you get it

grindle

Or from this guy.

That Maplins stuff is copper, and copper is meant to be bad for our needs. Poisonalicious.

heliguyheliguy

I'll second this guy, very fast delivery

http://myworld.ebay.ie/www.zivipf.de.vu/&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2754

Sir Digby Chicken Caesar

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Kanthal-A-resistance-heating-wire-0-15mm-0-006-AWG-34-high-quality-/221139123193?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&var=520116502347&hash=item337ceb3bf9#ht_1028wt_910

found this guy last night

100metres of kanthal .15mm for about 17 posted


rofl, nevermind. same guy the two of you just linked