the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Lissavane

07Lapierre wrote: »

3. The glass went through the tyre and punctured the tube. As the tube deflated, the tube moved/twisted so when you removed the tyre, the hole in the tyre and tube were in different locations?

Thank you for replying. Yes, maybe and I hope that's the case. But I didn't remove the wheel, so I was pretty sure the locations on tyre and tube should have lined up pretty well. Then, it is a pretty fat tyre and tube so maybe deflation accounted for it.

Anyway, what would you think of that little rubber "pimple" on the inside of the tyre? It's not something I'd have thought would puncture the inner tube but I wonder if friction over time could do it.

cletus

Lissavane wrote: »

Thank you for replying. Yes, maybe and I hope that's the case. But I didn't remove the wheel, so I was pretty sure the locations on tyre and tube should have lined up pretty well. Then, it is a pretty fat tyre and tube so maybe deflation accounted for it.

Anyway, what would you think of that little rubber "pimple" on the inside of the tyre? It's not something I'd have thought would puncture the inner tube but I wonder if friction over time could do it.

I'd say it's a manufacturing mark, maybe from the injection molding process. It's very unlikely, to the point where I'd say it couldn't happen, to have abraded your inner tube to the point of failure. And even if it had, it wouldn't have left a puncture hole, it would have left a wear mark

CramCycle

Deleted User wrote: »

Has anyone here taken their bike to a bike shop to have bottle cage mounts fitted using Riv nuts?

I'm trying to fit a battery but unfortunately the existing bottle cage mounts are slightly in the wrong position plus I could use an extra two holes for a more secure fit.

So your not refitting existing holes, you want to drill new holes and fit riv nuts. I presume it is a steel bike?

07Lapierre

Lissavane wrote: »

Thank you for replying. Yes, maybe and I hope that's the case. But I didn't remove the wheel, so I was pretty sure the locations on tyre and tube should have lined up pretty well. Then, it is a pretty fat tyre and tube so maybe deflation accounted for it.

Anyway, what would you think of that little rubber "pimple" on the inside of the tyre? It's not something I'd have thought would puncture the inner tube but I wonder if friction over time could do it.

I’d say the glass is the culprit. The only way to be sure is to fit a new tube and see if you get another puncture in the same location

CramCycle

CramCycle wrote: »

So your not refitting existing holes, you want to drill new holes and fit riv nuts. I presume it is a steel bike?

No unfortunately it's an aluminium bike, I have read that if I add carbonated steel Riv nuts that it will actually make the frame stronger than before.

Lissavane

07Lapierre wrote: »

I’d say the glass is the culprit. The only way to be sure is to fit a new tube and see if you get another puncture in the same location

I've patched it now anyway and so far so good. Thanks again.

CramCycle

Deleted User wrote: »

No unfortunately it's an aluminium bike, I have read that if I add carbonated steel Riv nuts that it will actually make the frame stronger than before.

I'll be honest, it should be possible, no idea about it making the frame stronger, I suspect they meant it's less likely to crack after drilling. Loads of people have done it and it seems to have worked. With no science behind my assumption though, I wouldn't be drilling near a joint nor would I do it on an ovalised tube. My alu road bike is wafer thin and all I could see happening is the frame cracking, but my old mountain bike was solid and I would imagine it could be punctured multiple times without issue. Anyway, no help to you other than people online seem to have done it without issue. I doubt a bike shop will do it though, from a liability point of view, they wouldn't take the risk of it failing after the fact, so it would be a homemade job

ARX

I'm installing a Hollowtech II bottom bracket (BB-RS500 to be precise).

Shimano specifies a torque of 35-50 Nm. There are several Shimano manuals covering this part, some say to grease the threads and some don't say anything about grease.

I've put copper grease on the threads and tightened to 35 Nm. As they're greased I don't want to go near the upper end of the torque range.

Any reason to torque them up any more than the lowest torque setting? 35 Nm feels pretty tight. Not 'swinging out of it' tight, just 'hold the frame steady with the other hand and pull the torque wrench firmly' tight.

cletus

ARX wrote: »

I'm installing a Hollowtech II bottom bracket (BB-RS500 to be precise).

Shimano specifies a torque of 35-50 Nm. There are several Shimano manuals covering this part, some say to grease the threads and some don't say anything about grease.

I've put copper grease on the threads and tightened to 35 Nm. As they're greased I don't want to go near the upper end of the torque range.

Any reason to torque them up any more than the lowest torque setting? 35 Nm feels pretty tight. Not 'swinging out of it' tight, just 'hold the frame steady with the other hand and pull the torque wrench firmly' tight.

I can't speak to the torque range, but in general, grease and copper grease are not interchangeable

Brian?

ARX wrote: »

I'm installing a Hollowtech II bottom bracket (BB-RS500 to be precise).

Shimano specifies a torque of 35-50 Nm. There are several Shimano manuals covering this part, some say to grease the threads and some don't say anything about grease.

I've put copper grease on the threads and tightened to 35 Nm. As they're greased I don't want to go near the upper end of the torque range.

Any reason to torque them up any more than the lowest torque setting? 35 Nm feels pretty tight. Not 'swinging out of it' tight, just 'hold the frame steady with the other hand and pull the torque wrench firmly' tight.

I wouldn’t use copper grease either, it’s corrosive to seals. Your bottom bracket has seals, I think. Use poly grease. 40nm is loads

Edit: copper grease isn’t even a lubricant. Didn’t know that:

Copper grease is an anti seize compound designed to operate at extremes of temperature. Note, it is not a lubricant. It is often used to help prevent seizing and corrosion at high temperatures in the automotive industry.

nicksnikita

ARX wrote: »

I'm installing a Hollowtech II bottom bracket (BB-RS500 to be precise).

Shimano specifies a torque of 35-50 Nm. There are several Shimano manuals covering this part, some say to grease the threads and some don't say anything about grease.

I've put copper grease on the threads and tightened to 35 Nm. As they're greased I don't want to go near the upper end of the torque range.

Any reason to torque them up any more than the lowest torque setting? 35 Nm feels pretty tight. Not 'swinging out of it' tight, just 'hold the frame steady with the other hand and pull the torque wrench firmly' tight.

35Nm - be grand
Copper grease - be grand

Maybe remove the BB after winter, clean the BB threads and the threads in the bike and use a grease more generally suited for bicycles next time.

ARX

Brian? wrote: »

I wouldn’t use copper grease either, it’s corrosive to seals. Your bottom bracket has seals, I think. Use poly grease. 40nm is loads

I don't have any poly grease but I have Finish Line Teflon Grease - would that do the job, or would I be better getting Park Tool Anti-Seize Compound (which Park Tool specifically recommend for BB threads)?

ARX

nicksnikita wrote: »

35Nm - be grand
Copper grease - be grand

Maybe remove the BB after winter, clean the BB threads and the threads in the bike and use a grease more generally suited for bicycles next time.

I haven't installed the crankset yet so I think I'll pull out the BB and use grease instead of copper grease.

cletus

ARX wrote: »

I haven't installed the crankset yet so I think I'll pull out the BB and use grease instead of copper grease.

The teflon you have will be fine. I'd do above too, if I was you. Copper grease doesn't really offer lubrication, it's an anti-seize. It gets used in applications where two surfaces are mated, but not moving in relation to each other

ARX

cletus wrote: »

The teflon you have will be fine. I'd do above too, if I was you. Copper grease doesn't really offer lubrication, it's an anti-seize. It gets used in applications where two surfaces are mated, but not moving in relation to each other

Thanks. Just to be clear, I'm not using it to lubricate the bearings, I put it on the BB threads to stop it seizing in the frame. I didn't know that copper grease can attack seals so that's reason enough not to use it.

Brian?

ARX wrote: »

I don't have any poly grease but I have Finish Line Teflon Grease - would that do the job, or would I be better getting Park Tool Anti-Seize Compound (which Park Tool specifically recommend for BB threads)?

Use that finish line stuff

cletus

ARX wrote: »

Thanks. Just to be clear, I'm not using it to lubricate the bearings, I put it on the BB threads to stop it seizing in the frame. I didn't know that copper grease can attack seals so that's reason enough not to use it.

Sorry, I assumed it was for lubrication. There's conflicting thoughts on the damage that copper grease can do, but mostly the damage refers to rubber o rings and such, suggestions are that it can make them swell.

At the end of the day, though, it was specifically designed for use in high temp situations. No real need for it on a bike

wowy

Strange query re. Ultegra 8020 hydraulic disc brakes. Hope you can follow the explanation, I'd upload a video if I knew how to.

Due to my childlike-sized small hands, I've reduced the reach on the levers so I can use them when on the drops. Because the reach has been reduced, there's a bit of "play" (for want of a better term) forward in the levers (in that I can push the lever forward away from the drops to its fully extended reach, and it will then pop back to its new setting).

The other day I was taking it easy freewheeling down a slight descent, and I was leaning on the top of the hoods. Mindlessly I pulled back on the top part of the lever which pushed the lever forward, just a bit mindless as I knew it did nothing. However, the bike definitely took off a bit, without any additional pedalling or change in gradient. A few more tests and it definitely seemed that pushing the lever forward back to its original fully-extended reach seemed to reduce resistance a small amount.

The discs aren't rubbing. The shop put on new pads about 2 months ago when I had it serviced, and I presume the rest of the system was simultaneously checked to be in order. When I test it off the bike and push the levers forward, the calipers don't move.

I obviously can't adjust the reach back to its original setting. As a test, I did loosen the free-stroke adjustment marginally (from the fully-tightened setting) but that didn't seem to make any noticeable difference (in that, it still felt like pushing the lever forward reduced resistance).

Has anyone encountered something like this?

I don't think it's fluid-related, as the brakes work well (aside from annoying squeaking) and there's no sponginess in the lever.

It might be an issue that the brakes do rub slightly when I'm on the bike, but if that's the case I couldn't see how pushing the levers out would adjust the calipers to reduce resistance in that instance, but not adjust the calipers when I'm not on the bike.

It's not a huge issue, but if I could get those extra few watts it's costing me back for free, that'd be very handy as I've a few 300km+ spins coming up.

Weepsie

Anyone any experience with bolts stuck in carbon frames?

2 mount bottles for a bottle cage won't budge and they're a bit round out now.

Its a 2nd hand frame, but otherwise pretty immaculate and would be a very expensive mistake to get it wrong.
I'd go at my other stell frames with a drill comfortable enough

nicksnikita

Weepsie wrote: »

Anyone any experience with bolts stuck in carbon frames?

2 mount bottles for a bottle cage won't budge and they're a bit round out now.

Its a 2nd hand frame, but otherwise pretty immaculate and would be a very expensive mistake to get it wrong.
I'd go at my other stell frames with a drill comfortable enough

I had a similar issue last week (and a few times before also)

Assuming you’ve soaked in penetrating fluid and bottle cages have been removed, try clamping a vise grips on the head of the bolt. If you can get enough purchase on the bolt, you may be able to free it from the mount, turning anti-clockwise.

If bottle cages are still installed, you may have to sacrifice them and destroy them in order to give you access to the bolts.

You could drill through the middle of the bolt with a small drill bit (between 2-3mm) then drill with progressively bigger bits in small increments (say 3.5,4,4.3,5mm....) once you get close to having the entire bolt drilled out, the remaining material should fall away and your mount will be useable again.

You may find that the rivnut (mounts) come loose and spin in the frame. But that’s not a major issue and can be solved cheaply if needs be.

Weepsie

Cage is thankfully not mounted. I'll soak it in plus gas later. I gave up yesterday as I just wanted to get out and cycle it.

cletus

If you're going to try a visegrips on the bolt head, I'd file a couple of flats first, for better purchase.

Weepsie

The bolt heads are sort of flat and rounded actually, more like clear bolts. So vice grips won't be much use

cletus

Weepsie wrote: »

The bolt heads are sort of flat and rounded actually, more like clear bolts. So vice grips won't be much use

You could file two flat 'sides' to let you get a grip

DJB030244

Have the latest mechanical ultegra on a road bike ..it works fine and is indexed fine too
However it’s loud on the big ring as you down shift into easier gears, IE the 23 and the 25 . I don’t cross chain into the 28 . The rest of the gears in the big ring are fine . The trim is set up fine and it’s not a mech rub sound . More like a loud dry chain kind of sound

Currently set up up with 11-28 and a 50/34 . I have had bikes in the past that I could even cross chain with that were quiet so it’s a mystery why it’s so loud…

Out of the big ring into the 34 smaller ring and all quiet there

Anybody got R8000 and had this issue ? I’ve researched online and other people have this loud friction issue . I shouldn’t always have to have a perfect chain line for silence or continually drop down go up on the chainring . Chain is oiled and all set up right as far as I can see

It’s a weird one , anybody had this ? Never had this with 6800 ultegra

Brian?

Weepsie wrote: »

The bolt heads are sort of flat and rounded actually, more like clear bolts. So vice grips won't be much use

Option 1. Live with whatever bottle cages you have

Option 2. “Easy out” bits. You essentially drill them into the screws any clockwise and they loosen the bolts. Medium risk.

Option 3. Drill the head off the bolts. Uses a vice grips to remove what’s left. High risk.


I’d go for option 1. What’s wrong with the current cages

Brian?

DJB030244 wrote: »

Have the latest mechanical ultegra on a road bike ..it works fine and is indexed fine too
However it’s loud on the big ring as you down shift into easier gears, IE the 23 and the 25 . I don’t cross chain into the 28 . The rest of the gears in the big ring are fine . The trim is set up fine and it’s not a mech rub sound . More like a loud dry chain kind of sound

Currently set up up with 11-28 and a 50/34 . I have had bikes in the past that I could even cross chain with that were quiet so it’s a mystery why it’s so loud…

Out of the big ring into the 34 smaller ring and all quiet there

Anybody got R8000 and had this issue ? I’ve researched online and other people have this loud friction issue . I shouldn’t always have to have a perfect chain line for silence or continually drop down go up on the chainring . Chain is oiled and all set up right as far as I can see

It’s a weird one , anybody had this ? Never had this with 6800 ultegra

You’re expecting too much. Use the small ring more.

Or spend hours playing with the cable tension so it’s perfect.

Elvis Hammond

DJB030244 wrote: »

Have the latest mechanical ultegra on a road bike ..it works fine and is indexed fine too
However it’s loud on the big ring as you down shift into easier gears, IE the 23 and the 25 . I don’t cross chain into the 28 . The rest of the gears in the big ring are fine . The trim is set up fine and it’s not a mech rub sound . More like a loud dry chain kind of sound

Currently set up up with 11-28 and a 50/34 . I have had bikes in the past that I could even cross chain with that were quiet so it’s a mystery why it’s so loud…

Out of the big ring into the 34 smaller ring and all quiet there

Anybody got R8000 and had this issue ? I’ve researched online and other people have this loud friction issue . I shouldn’t always have to have a perfect chain line for silence or continually drop down go up on the chainring . Chain is oiled and all set up right as far as I can see

It’s a weird one , anybody had this ? Never had this with 6800 ultegra

Derailer pulley noise? I suppose it could be 'abnormal' if the chain is a bit short.

Weepsie

Brian? wrote: »

I’d go for option 1. What’s wrong with the current cages

There were no cages on it. Just the bolts

Brian?

Weepsie wrote: »

There were no cages on it. Just the bolts

Ahhh ****e. Easy outs it is then.

Something like this

https://www.woodies.ie/tactix-5pc-screw-remover-1146109