the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Brian?

magicbastarder wrote: »

you'll need a special cassette removal tool to do that.

Yep. I assume everyone has one, sorry for that.

Everyone who’s serious about cycling should have one in fairness. Taking the cassette off is the best way to clean it.

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

Yep. I assume everyone has one, sorry for that.

Everyone who’s serious about cycling should have one in fairness. Taking the cassette off is the best way to clean it.

I have one.
Never take off cassette to clean.

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

I have one.
Never take off cassette to clean.

I find it much easier that clearing it on the wheel. You can take it apart and really get it spotless.

positron

Here's a really stupid question. I noticed both my wheels have a slight sideways play. Looking at some GCN videos I thought I would try and re-greese the bearings if possible but with the wheels out, I can't see a way to get to the bearings. It looks like there's an end cap or something that wouldn't come off (doesn't have any indentation for spanners etc either).

The wheels are Specialized Diverge stock, DT Swiss something but the hubs says just " SCS-722 R.D". Any ideas? Probly one for LBS? Thanks!!

nicksnikita

positron wrote: »

Here's a really stupid question. I noticed both my wheels have a slight sideways play. Looking at some GCN videos I thought I would try and re-greese the bearings if possible but with the wheels out, I can't see a way to get to the bearings. It looks like there's an end cap or something that wouldn't come off (doesn't have any indentation for spanners etc either).

The wheels are Specialized Diverge stock, DT Swiss something but the hubs says just " SCS-722 R.D". Any ideas? Probly one for LBS? Thanks!!

Sometimes you insert an Allen key into both side of the hub to remove the end caps.

TaSeThat

Another silly question (sorry have not read the full thread). I have never replaced my chain (road bike) and had the bike about 4/5 years. I'm going to roughly guess that about 5-6k miles done on the bike. Is this bonkers or do you only change the chain when it breaks/give signs its on the way out. I do give the chain a degrease and lube every couple of weeks. I don't have that link measuring tool - if I do get one are they chain vendor specific or does the tool do all types of chains?
Chap in work told me he changes his chain and also the gear/sprocket thingy at the same time (I have a very poor knowledge of bike parts). If changing chain do you also have to change the gears (the cog thing on the rear wheel?)
Cheers in advance.

magicbastarder

a worn chain will wear out the rest of the drivetrain (rear cassette and chainrings). your colleague is being way overcautious in changing the cassette with the chain each time - unless the chain is toast and has worn out the cassette too.
if you've been looking after your chain, it's probably not too badly worn and probably hasn't worn out your cassette, but you won't know for certain unless you measure the chain wear - you can do this with a ruler as well as with a specific chain measuring tool.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5okJdYrANt8

TaSeThat

cheers Magicbastard....er. I'll get the ruler out first thing in the morning. He mentions in the vid that if it's more than 1% with the tool (or more than 1/8 inch with the ruler) you have to replace the chain and chain ring, then he says "everything". Is that what he is talking about when he says chain ring - is that the cassette?

Brian?

TaSeThat wrote: »

Another silly question (sorry have not read the full thread). I have never replaced my chain (road bike) and had the bike about 4/5 years. I'm going to roughly guess that about 5-6k miles done on the bike. Is this bonkers or do you only change the chain when it breaks/give signs its on the way out. I do give the chain a degrease and lube every couple of weeks. I don't have that link measuring tool - if I do get one are they chain vendor specific or does the tool do all types of chains?
Chap in work told me he changes his chain and also the gear/sprocket thingy at the same time (I have a very poor knowledge of bike parts). If changing chain do you also have to change the gears (the cog thing on the rear wheel?)
Cheers in advance.

Change your chain if it’s stretched as the other poster said. There’s a weird idea that you have to change your cassette at the same time, this isn’t true. Only change the cassette if it’s worn, pretty easy to see wear on a cassette

Edit for clarification: cassette is the gears on your rear wheel. Chainrings are your “front “ gears.

magicbastarder

yeah, if you've a decent regime where you change your chain before it gets too worn, it's a general rule of thumb that you change the cassette after three chains, and change the chainrings after three cassettes.

magicbastarder

positron wrote: »

Here's a really stupid question. I noticed both my wheels have a slight sideways play. Looking at some GCN videos I thought I would try and re-greese the bearings if possible

funny enough, i've a slight bit of play in my back wheel, i'm off to look for videos on how to deal with this specific issue (i don't think i need to completely disassemble the hub to address it, might just be a case of tightening up a preload cap for all i know)

TaSeThat

Thanks again Magic and Brian. I'll give the cassette a good look at also in case.

hesker

Brian? wrote: »

…..pretty easy to see wear on a cassette.

Easy to see wear sometimes but you can have wear to the point that the cassette is unusable and the cassette still looks fine.

I posted a thread last year on my experience with an 11 speed cassette that I bought second hand. It looked fine but a new chain skipped on it under moderate load.

07Lapierre

hesker wrote: »

Easy to see wear sometimes but you can have wear to the point that the cassette is unusable and the cassette still looks fine.

I posted a thread last year on my experience with an 11 speed cassette that I bought second hand. It looked fine but a new chain skipped on it under moderate load.

Agree…can never understand why you would buy a used cassette. No way of knowing if it will be ok with your chain.

hesker

07Lapierre wrote: »

Agree…can never understand why you would buy a used cassette. No way of knowing if it will be ok with your chain.

Believe me it is lesson learned. I thought I could tell wear by looking at good resolution photos and that’s my point. You can’t.

TaSeThat

Another follow up question which again may be stupid. I measured the chain links and looks like they are as in the vid link, more than an 1/8 inch out from the centre link after measure about a foot down the chain. So looks like I'll definitely change the chain and to be sure the cassette (it has been a few years and nothing touched/changed on the bike so probably worth doing).

So my stupid question - my bike to work scheme has probably come around again. The original bike cost me about 1200 (so probably around 600 net cost to me). With the cost of a chain, cassette and possibly the chain ring (definitely the first 2 anyway and possibly disk brakes that also have not been touched) would I be better off buying a new bike. I may get more bang for my buck now than I did 5 years ago, plus I'd be getting a new bike with guarantee/warranty and 3 month checkup. I could list the current bike for about 450-500 to cover 95% of the net cost of a new bike.
I'm not trying to be lazy, honest, just seems to make sense unless I'm overlooking something. FYI the bike is a Canondale FSA I think it says.
cheers in advance

seamus

I used to be great for stripping bikes down and cleaning them. Don't have time for that now though. Drivetrain gets cleaned when I replace the chain and cassette. If I've been on a particularly mucky ride, I'll wash everything down to get the road grit off and give the moving parts a blast of lubricant. That's about it.

magicbastarder

TaSeThat wrote: »

I could list the current bike for about 450-500 to cover 95% of the net cost of a new bike.

would you point out at sale time that the bike possibly needs a major drivetrain overhaul though?

magicbastarder

youtube was clearly eavesdropping. it just suggested this for me to watch.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-7SWfQeqXI

i wonder - if all say 16 tooth sprockets from shimano cassettes have the same silhouette (and this may not be the case), surely it'd be easy enough to make a cutout in plastic using a brand new cassette, to compare with the cassette several months or years later?

or even just compare a fresh sprocket against the worn one?

07Lapierre

TaSeThat wrote: »

Another follow up question which again may be stupid. I measured the chain links and looks like they are as in the vid link, more than an 1/8 inch out from the centre link after measure about a foot down the chain. So looks like I'll definitely change the chain and to be sure the cassette (it has been a few years and nothing touched/changed on the bike so probably worth doing).

So my stupid question - my bike to work scheme has probably come around again. The original bike cost me about 1200 (so probably around 600 net cost to me). With the cost of a chain, cassette and possibly the chain ring (definitely the first 2 anyway and possibly disk brakes that also have not been touched) would I be better off buying a new bike. I may get more bang for my buck now than I did 5 years ago, plus I'd be getting a new bike with guarantee/warranty and 3 month checkup. I could list the current bike for about 450-500 to cover 95% of the net cost of a new bike.
I'm not trying to be lazy, honest, just seems to make sense unless I'm overlooking something. FYI the bike is a Canondale FSA I think it says.
cheers in advance

I hate telling people not to buy a new bike but no...your bike is easily repaired. drop into your LBS and get a quote.

Brian?

TaSeThat wrote: »

Another follow up question which again may be stupid. I measured the chain links and looks like they are as in the vid link, more than an 1/8 inch out from the centre link after measure about a foot down the chain. So looks like I'll definitely change the chain and to be sure the cassette (it has been a few years and nothing touched/changed on the bike so probably worth doing).

So my stupid question - my bike to work scheme has probably come around again. The original bike cost me about 1200 (so probably around 600 net cost to me). With the cost of a chain, cassette and possibly the chain ring (definitely the first 2 anyway and possibly disk brakes that also have not been touched) would I be better off buying a new bike. I may get more bang for my buck now than I did 5 years ago, plus I'd be getting a new bike with guarantee/warranty and 3 month checkup. I could list the current bike for about 450-500 to cover 95% of the net cost of a new bike.
I'm not trying to be lazy, honest, just seems to make sense unless I'm overlooking something. FYI the bike is a Canondale FSA I think it says.
cheers in advance

Don't sell your bike, learn to do the work yourself and do the maintenance. Over the years doing your own maintenance will cover the cost of your next new bike.

TaSeThat

Cheers guys, off to Amazon so for new parts. Then Youtube for the dirty work...as you say it would be worth it in the end.

Brian?

TaSeThat wrote: »

Cheers guys, off to Amazon so for new parts. Then Youtube for the dirty work...as you say it would be worth it in the end.

In Ireland check chain reaction for parts first.

hesker

magicbastarder wrote: »

or even just compare a fresh sprocket against the worn one?

I’m pretty sure I did that with side by side photo comparison. If I can dig it out I’ll post it.

TaSeThat

Apologies, I'm really starting to hijack this thread but I had a good look and looks like everything is in rag order and needs replacing (see pics - hopefully I've used the correct description for the parts in the overall image):

1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Front Chain Ring
4. Rear Derailer - can just the "wheels" be replaced or does the whole rear derailer have to be replaced.

So, do I just need the cassette removal tool, screwdrivers and patience to tackle all this (I have the chain tools also).

Should I get the same equipment again and will this affect the other parts (if i get a specific cassette say, does this dictate what chain, chain ring, derailer I get).

Again, sorry with all the questions.

FYI, this looks like my model bike so has details on the items which is handy for replacing:

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/cannondale-caad-optimo-disc-tiagra-review/

thanks in advance.

magicbastarder

not sure if the chainrings look all *that* bad? but others will know better. it's quite obvious though that the inner ring is barely used, leading to the other thing that is worth mentioning - you're cross chained there. i.e. you've gone from big ring on the front to big sprocket on the back, which increases chain wear, as the chain has to bend sideways through an angle twice to seat onto the teeth. the same gear ratio can be obtained by going from small on the front to probably third largest on the back without causing the same deflection.

also, there looks to be a lot of scraping on the pie plate - i.e. the plastic disc between the cassette and the spokes; this could indicate that your rear derailleur is moving too far in and the chain is rubbing off the pie plate, which could indicate mis-indexing (which will also cause wear).

lastly, yes, the little cogs on the RD can be replaced separately, they're called jockey wheels and should not cost much more than a tenner.

anyway, first thing i'd do if i were you is to call into a halfords if there's one near you and buy a chain checker - they're under a tenner and would be a cheap way of verifying the chain wear - i've seen people cycling around on chains a *hell* of a lot grubbier looking than that.

cletus

Just a quick note here. You don't need to buy a new derailleur, new jockey wheels will suffice.

*Edit* MB in ahead of me

TaSeThat

Thanks again all, I'll run into Halfords as I need Degreaser anyway. Yep, good spot Sherlock on the gear changes and plastic thingy - I have a habit of jumping onto the rear and front "large cogs" instead of doing what you say - small front cog and 3rd rear back cog.
I'll have a look at the rear derailer to see about "aligning" it correctly (I remember seeing a Youtube video on that before which I may have saved to my favourites).
Learning a lot and thanks for all the input/answers guys.

Brian?

TaSeThat wrote: »

Apologies, I'm really starting to hijack this thread but I had a good look and looks like everything is in rag order and needs replacing (see pics - hopefully I've used the correct description for the parts in the overall image):

1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Front Chain Ring
4. Rear Derailer - can just the "wheels" be replaced or does the whole rear derailer have to be replaced.

So, do I just need the cassette removal tool, screwdrivers and patience to tackle all this (I have the chain tools also).

Should I get the same equipment again and will this affect the other parts (if i get a specific cassette say, does this dictate what chain, chain ring, derailer I get).

Again, sorry with all the questions.

FYI, this looks like my model bike so has details on the items which is handy for replacing:

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/cannondale-caad-optimo-disc-tiagra-review/

thanks in advance.

Give everything a good clean and fit a new chain. The rest is probably ok. It's very very unlikely you need to replace the rear derailleur jockey wheels.

Clean all, replace the chain. If there's no skipping or slipping in gear, drive on.

Edit: I just checked the close up of the rear derailleur. I've never seen damage like that! Replace the jockey wheels and figure out what it was hitting

hesker

hesker wrote: »

I’m pretty sure I did that with side by side photo comparison. If I can dig it out I’ll post it.

Here are the photos. New vs Worn. You can see wear on the worn one but can you tell that it is worn to the point that it is unusable