the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

at1withmyself

Try to increase or decrease the rear derailleur tension screw a small piece and see does it improve

DJB030244 wrote: »

Have the latest mechanical ultegra on a road bike ..it works fine and is indexed fine too
However it’s loud on the big ring as you down shift into easier gears, IE the 23 and the 25 . I don’t cross chain into the 28 . The rest of the gears in the big ring are fine . The trim is set up fine and it’s not a mech rub sound . More like a loud dry chain kind of sound

Currently set up up with 11-28 and a 50/34 . I have had bikes in the past that I could even cross chain with that were quiet so it’s a mystery why it’s so loud…

Out of the big ring into the 34 smaller ring and all quiet there

Anybody got R8000 and had this issue ? I’ve researched online and other people have this loud friction issue . I shouldn’t always have to have a perfect chain line for silence or continually drop down go up on the chainring . Chain is oiled and all set up right as far as I can see

It’s a weird one , anybody had this ? Never had this with 6800 ultegra

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

Ahhh ****e. Easy outs it is then.

Something like this

https://www.woodies.ie/tactix-5pc-screw-remover-1146109

Before easy outs chance cutting straight across with a hacksaw (or junior hacksaw) and make a track for a flat head screw driver.

Use the widest screwdriver you have. Preferably wider than the screw head.

Then yep easy outs are only option. They're a lost resort,.....

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Before easy outs chance cutting straight across with a hacksaw (or junior hacksaw) and make a track for a flat head screw driver.

Use the widest screwdriver you have. Preferably wider than the screw head.

Then yep easy outs are only option. They're a lost resort,.....

I would propose you are better off using easy outs than that method. You’re much more likely to destroy the screw or your hands and leave yourself in a much worse predicament that way than using easy outs. They’re pretty fool proof.

Why would you see them as a last resort?

Wildly Boaring

If your easy out goes wrong or fails what next?

If you try the slot and flat head can always resort to easy out.

But I've only had to use and easy out 2 or 3 times in my life.

Calahonda52

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

If your easy out goes wrong or fails what next?

If you try the slot and flat head can always resort to easy out.

But I've only had to use and easy out 2 or 3 times in my life.

risk of marking the CF with the blade

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

If your easy out goes wrong or fails what next?

If you try the slot and flat head can always resort to easy out.

But I've only had to use and easy out 2 or 3 times in my life.

Next us drilling out the screw. The easy outs shouldn't fail

Wildly Boaring

Calahonda52 wrote: »

risk of marking the CF with the blade

Yep and a risk of screwdriver slipping off and marking the frame.

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

Next us drilling out the screw. The easy outs shouldn't fail

I'm no expert go with the easy outs OP!!!

Weepsie

Cheers. I've never used them, but I'll have to go with them. Can live without the second cage for a few weeks but going to need it eventually

hesker

Another vote for the hacksaw. Put a new blade in it.

If you have a dremel you can use the metal cutting disc to get a start.

You’d want to be fairly clumsy to contact your frame. Hold a flat piece of metal against the cutting line with your free hand.

Fann Linn

Weepsie wrote: »

Cheers. I've never used them, but I'll have to go with them. Can live without the second cage for a few weeks but going to need it eventually

Or.... Buy a new bike!!!

Weepsie

I've just bought 2

Crippens1

Mavic Ksyrium wheels; back wheel out of true but I can't seem to shift the spoke nipples. They won't budge under "normal" effort and I don't want to give it too much wellie in case I break something. Have tried DW40 to no avail.

The Mavic website descirbes them as "Fore integrated aluminum" and they have that larger, "circular" shape.

Any advice out there?

CantGetNoSleep

I've fixed a front disc brake which was rubbing. Used the business card method but took two or three attempts to get it right.

In doing so, I've maybe turned a minor problem into a major one, I've somehow stripped the boss / rivnut that the brake caliper bolt screws into. Bolt screws in but impossible to get any torque on it. I've tried swapping bolts so it is definitely the boss and not the bolt.

My LBS has fairly irregular opening times plus I'm going on holiday - so just wanted to check:

(a) if this is a big job to fix? any home fixes? I've considered loctite but won't risk it, and I know there is a method to fix water bottle bosses but not sure if you can try the same for a disc caliper mount

(b) is it safe to ride? I'm thinking no - the bolt screws in when using the longer end of an allen key, if you use the short end with some leverage it comes loose again. Normally this is an area that requires more torque I think

cletus

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've fixed a front disc brake which was rubbing. Used the business card method but took two or three attempts to get it right.

In doing so, I've maybe turned a minor problem into a major one, I've somehow stripped the boss / rivnut that the brake caliper bolt screws into. Bolt screws in but impossible to get any torque on it. I've tried swapping bolts so it is definitely the boss and not the bolt.

My LBS has fairly irregular opening times plus I'm going on holiday - so just wanted to check:

(a) if this is a big job to fix? any home fixes? I've considered loctite but won't risk it, and I know there is a method to fix water bottle bosses but not sure if you can try the same for a disc caliper mount

(b) is it safe to ride? I'm thinking no - the bolt screws in when using the longer end of an allen key, if you use the short end with some leverage it comes loose again. Normally this is an area that requires more torque I think

Can you post a picture?

Normally there's two fixes for stripped threads.

First is to drill out the damaged threads, and tap the larger hole, replace the bolt with a suitable size.

Second is to drill out the damages threads and put in a suitable sized helicoil.

Post pictures of the threaded hole plus the bolt so we can see which threads are damaged

CantGetNoSleep

cletus wrote: »

Can you post a picture?

Normally there's two fixes for stripped threads.

First is to drill out the damaged threads, and tap the larger hole, replace the bolt with a suitable size.

Second is to drill out the damages threads and put in a suitable sized helicoil.

Post pictures of the threaded hole plus the bolt so we can see which threads are damaged

Thanks, I am relieved to hear it is fixable at least. I haven't managed to get a picture of inside the hole but did notice some stripped metal on the bolt when I removed it

CantGetNoSleep

cletus wrote: »

Can you post a picture?

Normally there's two fixes for stripped threads.

First is to drill out the damaged threads, and tap the larger hole, replace the bolt with a suitable size.

Second is to drill out the damages threads and put in a suitable sized helicoil.

Post pictures of the threaded hole plus the bolt so we can see which threads are damaged

Some photos here of the bolt and then the hole although difficult to photograph that

https://imgur.com/a/KBFvmjI

https://imgur.com/a/nHUyinL

I've been to two bike shops today and struggling to find someone to repair it, including one place specialised in carbon frame repair who didn't have the tools (I live abroad)

cletus

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

Some photos here of the bolt and then the hole although difficult to photograph that

https://imgur.com/a/KBFvmjI

https://imgur.com/a/nHUyinL

I've been to two bike shops today and struggling to find someone to repair it, including one place specialised in carbon frame repair who didn't have the tools (I live abroad)

Ok, I wasn't aware that it was a carbon fibre frame. I'm not sure that either of the two solutions I suggested would work, and it's almost definitely not in the DIY catagory.

It looks like the thread is stripped from the hole, but I'm sure the bike shops confirmed that for you

CantGetNoSleep

cletus wrote: »

Ok, I wasn't aware that it was a carbon fibre frame. I'm not sure that either of the two solutions I suggested would work, and it's almost definitely not in the DIY catagory.

It looks like the thread is stripped from the hole, but I'm sure the bike shops confirmed that for you

New bike it is so

Toblerone1978

New parts.jpg

Trek.jpg

Dolan.jpg

Hi all,

 

I’m hoping to refurbish my old Trek “Lance Armstrong” bike (an aluminium bike), which hasn’t been in a working state in nearly 10 years (please see attached photos for this). To do this, I’ll be taking part from my Dolan Ares (a carbon bike) which is a write-off, mainly due to obstructions in its internal routing cables and the shifters/brakes been f*cked (I also attach a photos for this).

 I plan to do as follow:

·        I’ll be using the existing frame (obviously!), fork, seat post, shifters, crank and bottom brackets.

·        From the Dolan, I’ll be taking front and rear brakes, rear derailleur, jockey wheel, front derailleur (all Ultergra), the saddle (which actually came from the Trek!) and wheels.

·        New I have brake cables, gear cables, stem and cassette (photo also attached).

·        I also have handlebars and a set of pedals from a previous bike that I’ll intend to use.

 I’ll be using this bike to help me a long! But any advice in advance? Particularly what tools to have (including grease, etc), should I be replacing anything new (both bikes are 10+ years old!), what approach to take and anything else you might think relevant!

 I’ve very little bike mechanical experience so please do state the obvious!

 Also, I’ll do have another road bike, which is my main bike, and a hybrid. This is just a back up for the rollers and may be some cycling in the winter.

 

Thanks in advance,

Toblerone1978.

Wildly Boaring

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117486179#Comment_117486179

Got this sorted at the weekend.

A 2mm spacer and the front end is now tightening nice and easily.

Cheers folks

nicksnikita

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117612840#Comment_117612840

YouTube is your best mate here. Find a decent build video and use it to guide you through.

You'll need at least the following tools:

bottom bracket tool, cassette tool and/or chain whip, Allen keys, screwdrivers, pliers/cable cutters.

Should be a nice build!

Weepsie

Out cycling today. SRAM force hydraulic brakes. Absolutely fine coming downhills from viewing point.

Probably broke a bit harder than necessary a few times and I've rotors that need changing.

Anyway, bike fell over (it was against a fence) when collecting something heading to work after cycle, but still all worked.

Now after work, it's as I've there's no connection between the caliper and lever. Air in system? Caliper issue? Any ideas. Can't get it to mechanic until Wednesday, and need it for Friday

cletus

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/117624887#Comment_117624887

Have you checked for leaks? Have you checked for damage on the hydraulic hoses, most particularly at joins.

Loss of pressure usually means a leak, which will introduce air into the system.

Have a look and see is the piston actuating when you pull the lever

Weepsie

First experience with hydraulic, so not entirely sure how without taking the brake apart.

Might be slight leak at the caliper though. At least it didn't happen going downhill, but probably lead to it. Id wager the rotors didn't help..

cletus

If it were me, I'd be looking for evidence of fluid at the join between hose and caliper, and hose and lever.

The other place you could get a leak would be at the piston itself inside the caliper.

Pulling the lever while checking each connection should help you spot fluid.

Also, put the bike up on s bike stand if you have one, and see if the piston is moving in the caliper when you pull the lever, as in, are the brake pads moving towards the disc

Weepsie

They are moving, but only very very slightly. I'll have look on Tuesday. Cheers for advice.

07Lapierre

https://boards.ie/discussion/comment/102206779#Comment_102206779

Powerwashing is fine if you reduce the pressure to 1/2 or more and avoid the BB, headset and wheel bearings. Beware though. Power washing will remove all the lube from your chain and unless you relube it after, it will rust like crazy!

Mundo7976

Any suggestions for replacement of trp hyrd brakes. Every week or two its a new issue with them. Ive been trying to put it off as i dont want unnecessary replacing.

I need something affordable if ye've any suggestions, cheers 👍🏻

magicbastarder

what sort of issues have you had? i've had mine about 4 or 5 years now with little complaint.