the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122912434#Comment_122912434

I don't usually bump posts, but any chance someone has a solution to this?

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122916959#Comment_122916959

Downtube shifters and any Hydraulic brakes? In reality, there is no solution in the way you want as far as I know, you can have them separate or you can switch your hydro to wire, that would be it for the most part.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122917205#Comment_122917205

Sorry I'd there was confusion. Not downtube shifters, brifters, as in brakes and shifters in one, like on newer bikes.

cletus

To further clarify. He has these brake/shifters. They are mechanical. He needs the same (3x9) in hydraulic

Seth Brundle

Looking on the Shimano site, it looks like there was no 3x9 hydraulic option with dual control levers

https://productinfo.shimano.com/en/lineup/sora-3x9

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122917732#Comment_122917732

That was my point, I don't think they exist, other options are to buy a 2 x 10 speed Hydraulic, and adjust the limit screws so you have all 9 on the back and 2 front chainrings.

For me the most practical would be bar end shifters, sorry I said downtube, I meant bar end. and any hydraulic brake levers he wants. You would have all the gears, the above option chops a good few gears out.

MangleBadger

You can get one of these which converts cable actuated to hydralic.

Conduct Hydraulic Brake Systems | Giant Bicycles Official site

cletus

Thanks folks. Appreciate all the input.

As I suspected, they're isn't a straight swap. I'll let him know his alternatives. Once again, the boards cycling hive mind comes up trumps.

MangleBadger

Does anybody swap their cleats around? The cleat on the foot I unclip on is pretty battered. It still works but sometimes can be a bit of a faff.

I was contemplating swapping them over so that the other cleat can get equally battered before I swap them out. I figure I only clip in once a ride on that side anyway.

And yes I am cheap.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123058261#Comment_123058261

Never even thought of it but I also don't have a preference in which one I put down so I get wear fairly even on both

CramCycle

Makes sense if you use one predominantly but one wonders if it is starting to slip, would it still not be an issue when you swap over, albeit not as bad or fine if you swap early enough.

MangleBadger

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123058978#Comment_123058978

No slippage so much a s trouble clipping in, will give it a shot anyway.

MojoMaker

Di2 groupsets and older frames:

I'm at a bit of a loss. Can electric groups be retrofitted to older frames even if the frame is not marketed as "electric-ready"?

In the same vein, can a frame be "electric-only"? i.e. - you can't fit a mechanical group to it?

If it helps, I'm thinking specifically rim brake groupsets and frames here.

Roadtoad

I've just changed my cleats, and put the 'good' one by, to have on hand. There's Scottish blood in a few of us, I think. Thanks @MangleBadger. 🤑

I have done similar with tyres, moving a used front one back, and put the new one on the front. Not bothered so much in recent years.

marcuslally2

Hi, i'm looking for a bit of direction here.

I need to change out the crankset on my MTB. The BB is a Shimano Hollowtech SM-BB52 68/73mm.

I have got myself confused on spindle length.

Any potential purchase I’m looking at does not seem to outline the length, so does it matter?

3 x 10 Hollowtech 42T is what I’m looking to purchase.

Something like this:

Crankset with 24 mm axle 42/32/24T 175 mm - Bikable

Would this fit my current set-up?

Appreciate any advice or a steer here.

07Lapierre

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123065998#Comment_123065998

technically no as DI2 is designed so the wires are routed internally. The battery is also installed inside the seat tube. If your fitting it to a steel frame, you could drill a hole in the seat tube for the front derailleur and another at the end of the chain stay for the rear derailleur. sram wireless is a better option as its wireless so it can be installed easily.

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123065998#Comment_123065998

yes some frames are(were?) designed for electronic groupsets only although it’s rare nowadays in my experience

I’d say technically you could fit di2 to a non-designated frame but it would require some creativity. The difficulty would be wires entering and exiting the frame

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122857249#Comment_122857249

Video of 2024

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123065998#Comment_123065998

In my LBS and they have SRAM wireless on a road titanium frame with no internal routing. It looked beautiful and weighed less nothing. Shimano I imagine will end in having to drill the frame, or look for interesting either ways out for the cables, or even placing the battery external in a holder.

SRAM wireless is probably the best option.

MojoMaker

Interesting. of course gen 1 Di2 had the battery in a junction box outside the frame. Never liked the look of it.

Not sure I'll be springing for Sram as it was just a potential opportunity to upgrade Ultegra Di2 to DA Di2 and then recycle the Ultegra group onto something else.

Roadtoad

Here's my new chain, with the old one with about 8000km up. I

CramCycle

As good a place as any to ask, does anyone have any issues with ROTOR chainrings, are they equal to Shimano in quality, better or worse?

Seth Brundle

Looking online, the consensus seems to be that Shimano are designed for everyone and seem to work more smoothly than other brands. However, and it's not evidence of much really but I had a hire bike in Mallorca last May with Rotor chainrings mixed with Shimano Ultegra Di2 (12sp) and there wasn't a bother from it.

MojoMaker

I had a Rotor chainset on an old S5 - can't say it was limiting in any aspect.

Very popular in the world of TT bikes too - they produce some unusual sizes.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123140178#Comment_123140178

That was my thinking, they produce a chainring in a size I want that you can only get with Dura Ace and it costs 4 fold to go Shimano for a chainring I am not confident is the right size.

Limerick_dude

Hey folks need to replace the chain rings on an older ultegra group set as below. I can find the 39B in a few online stores but not having much luck with the 53

Shimano FC 6700 SG-X 53-B
Shimano FC 6700 SG-X 10S 39-B

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123156085#Comment_123156085

A bit like my Rotor query above, lots of suppliers offer alternatives including Rotor, Wolf Tooth and others

romperstomper

I would like to convert this frame for use with a cheapo turbo trainer. Im getting some see donor wheels with a rear cassette but I'll need everything else (except brakes). Where can I go for the parts? Is there a breakers yard around Dublin where I could get cheapo parts

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/123164314#Comment_123164314

If you’re looking for a cheap turbo bike, the cheapest way may be to keep an eye on adverts, or done deal and you should get something decent for around €100.
If it has to be built around the frame above, there are some drawbacks; bits like headset spacers, top cap, cable tensioners and rear mech hanger can be tricky to get quickly on the cheap.
maybe put a wanted ad with a list of everything required in the cycling adverts section on Boards. Lads usually have the likes of bars, saddles and other bits lying around for small money, if you’re not choosy or too specific.
Or there might be a local bike shop with an old parts bin close by that you could look through?

romperstomper

Only advantage I have is that I'm not in a hurry. Id happily go single speed and use the adjustable resistance on the turbo wheel rather than faff with gearing