the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

this was the chain wear tool i got in halfords, but it's not listed on halfords.ie anymore so i don't know if they still stock them:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cyclo-Tools-Chain-Indicator-Silver/dp/B005C8N6U6/ref=asc_df_B005C8N6U6/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310669108494&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6321086863203030893&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1007850&hvtargid=pla-610908425947&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

07Lapierre

TaSeThat wrote: »

Apologies, I'm really starting to hijack this thread but I had a good look and looks like everything is in rag order and needs replacing (see pics - hopefully I've used the correct description for the parts in the overall image):

1. Chain
2. Cassette
3. Front Chain Ring
4. Rear Derailer - can just the "wheels" be replaced or does the whole rear derailer have to be replaced.

So, do I just need the cassette removal tool, screwdrivers and patience to tackle all this (I have the chain tools also).

Should I get the same equipment again and will this affect the other parts (if i get a specific cassette say, does this dictate what chain, chain ring, derailer I get).

Again, sorry with all the questions.

FYI, this looks like my model bike so has details on the items which is handy for replacing:

https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/road-bikes/cannondale-caad-optimo-disc-tiagra-review/

thanks in advance.

1. give the bike a claen.
2. buy this...(think of it as an investment!)
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-bike-tool-kit-18-piece
3. subscribe to Park Tools on Youtube and start learning how maintain your bike. you wont regret it.

devonp

hesker wrote: »

Here are the photos. New vs Worn. You can see wear on the worn one but can you tell that it is worn to the point that it is unusable

on the trailing edges of the teeth esp on the 3 o' clock to 5/6 o' clock ones there is a sharp edge with a little point at the top ....not good news (most likely worn chain did the damage)

just fitted a new chain to my 2 yr old Chorus cassette (prob about 8K)...skipping in the middle cogs only when any power applied
ordered a new cassette from Mantel tuesday might arrive tmrw :rolleyes:

many sources ,YouTUbe etc say this behaviour and wear indicate new cassette time...guess i'll find out this weekend

CantGetNoSleep

I've changed my gearing and measuring the size of chain I need, I'm one link short (with a very recent chain). Can a link / second quick link be added or do I need a new chain?

cletus

I can't answer your question definitively, but heres a video where dude makes a chain out of nothing but master links

https://youtu.be/m1y95ztSY5U

07Lapierre

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've changed my gearing and measuring the size of chain I need, I'm one link short (with a very recent chain). Can a link / second quick link be added or do I need a new chain?

You’d have to break the chain in two and add a second split link. Reason is you can’t link two split links to each other.

Ive never done this and if I were you I’d fit a new chain. (Just for peace of mind and not for any negative technical reason)

burger1979

OK folks, so a kind of bike maintenance question. Thinking of changing the chainset from 52/36 to 53/39. Currently run with a 52/36 - 11/28, and its fine, but I am getting a little bit stronger and was thinking of upgrading the chainset to the 39 inner. Anyone done this and did you use any calculator to find out what speed/range you had on the gears? thanks,

magicbastarder

sort of terrain do you cover? i.e. do you use the inner ring a lot? because the difference on the outer ring is less than 2%, and unless you're running out of gears, i'm not sure there's that much to be gained.

Brian?

CantGetNoSleep wrote: »

I've changed my gearing and measuring the size of chain I need, I'm one link short (with a very recent chain). Can a link / second quick link be added or do I need a new chain?

You can add a new link no problem, but I wouldn’t add a 2nd quick link.

Brian?

burger1979 wrote: »

OK folks, so a kind of bike maintenance question. Thinking of changing the chainset from 52/36 to 53/39. Currently run with a 52/36 - 11/28, and its fine, but I am getting a little bit stronger and was thinking of upgrading the chainset to the 39 inner. Anyone done this and did you use any calculator to find out what speed/range you had on the gears? thanks,

Do you find yourself spinning out a 52x11 much? Fair play if you do, but I wouldn’t bother if I was you.

velo.2010

Anyone know of any shop that I may be able to drop a wheel in to be trued without too much of a wait? I ask because CSS are saying their lead times for repair are a month.

Mundo7976

velo.2010 wrote: »

Anyone know of any shop that I may be able to drop a wheel in to be trued without too much of a wait? I ask because CSS are saying their lead times for repair are a month.

Humphries iin finglas did one for me recently, same day service. Ring beforehand to make sure their not too busy though.

Wildly Boaring

I'm finding I need to tighten the head a lot to stop it rocking in the bearings.

This normal?

Wishbone Ash

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

I'm finding I need to tighten the head a lot to stop it rocking in the bearings.

This normal?

No.

Are you ensuring that you are loosening the stem bolts first before tightening the head nut?

Wildly Boaring

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

No.

Are you ensuring that you are loosening the stem bolts first before tightening the head nut?

Yep

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Yep

Bearings could be gone.

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

Bearings could be gone.

Took the whole lot apart yesterday.
Was very tight (obviously from myself a few months ago)
Everything seemed perfect.
Bearings very smooth.

Cleaned and greased it up. .
But yeah took a big pull on Allen key to get it solid after.

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Took the whole lot apart yesterday.
Was very tight (obviously from myself a few months ago)
Everything seemed perfect.
Bearings very smooth.

Cleaned and greased it up. .
But yeah took a big pull on Allen key to get it solid after.

There’s something wrong. You should torque the head bolt to the right value and not go mad on it to get it tight.

Did you change the bearings recently?

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Took the whole lot apart yesterday.
Was very tight (obviously from myself a few months ago)
Everything seemed perfect.
Bearings very smooth.

Cleaned and greased it up. .
But yeah took a big pull on Allen key to get it solid after.

Have a look at this

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/stem-removal-installation-threadless

Is there a load of spacers under the stem? Pay attention to the height between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem. Shouldn’t be more than 3mm

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

There’s something wrong. You should torque the head bolt to the right value and not go mad on it to get it tight.

Did you change the bearings recently?

I'll have to get my hands on torque wrench.
But feels too tight.

Inspected the bearings and frame yesterday. No wear anywhere so put the old ones back in.
Had to put a little tube around the allen key to get the torque into it

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

Have a look at this

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/stem-removal-installation-threadless

Is there a load of spacers under the stem? Pay attention to the height between the top of the steerer tube and the top of the stem. Shouldn’t be more than 3mm

I'd say you're onto something here.
I'll look tonight.

Funny enough I've been working on my flexibility the last year. Had plenty spacers under. For about 6 months they've all been above the bars.
Not in any way pretty but I've been leaving the chimney stack alone.

Wildly Boaring

The abomination of a turret

Brian?

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

I'd say you're onto something here.
I'll look tonight.

Funny enough I've been working on my flexibility the last year. Had plenty spacers under. For about 6 months they've all been above the bars.
Not in any way pretty but I've been leaving the chimney stack alone.

6nm is about the right torque. That’s not a lot of torque, you need to back that bolt off and find the problem before you destroy your steerer!!

Take off the cap and take a picture. You may need a different sized spacer in the mix somewhere.

devonp

devonp wrote: »

on the trailing edges of the teeth esp on the 3 o' clock to 5/6 o' clock ones there is a sharp edge with a little point at the top ....not good news (most likely worn chain did the damage)

just fitted a new chain to my 2 yr old Chorus cassette (prob about 8K)...skipping in the middle cogs only when any power applied
ordered a new cassette from Mantel tuesday might arrive tmrw :rolleyes:

many sources ,YouTUbe etc say this behaviour and wear indicate new cassette time...guess i'll find out this weekend

fitted new cassette, Chorus 11sp 12-29, no skipping on the small hills in the estate...will try something harder tmrw hopefully

magicbastarder

i distinctly remember being told 'just mount the chain so the shimano logo is facing out and is the right way up as it crosses over the top of the cassette and through the FD to the chainring'.

Brian?

magicbastarder wrote: »

i distinctly remember being told 'just mount the chain so the shimano logo is facing out and is the right way up as it crosses over the top of the cassette and through the FD to the chainring'.

I don't think it matters, mechanically speaking

07Lapierre

magicbastarder wrote: »

i distinctly remember being told 'just mount the chain so the shimano logo is facing out and is the right way up as it crosses over the top of the cassette and through the FD to the chainring'.

AFAIK the "Shimano" stamp must be on the outside (as per your photo). if it was on the inside (facing the wheel spokes) it would be incorrect.

Wildly Boaring

Brian? wrote: »

6nm is about the right torque. That’s not a lot of torque, you need to back that bolt off and find the problem before you destroy your steerer!!

Take off the cap and take a picture. You may need a different sized spacer in the mix somewhere.

Might need a very thin spacer
The cap is thicker in the center
Spacers almost flush with steerer top

cletus

Wildly Boaring wrote: »

Might need a very thin spacer
The cap is thicker in the center
Spacers almost flush with steerer top

Can you take a picture on the steerer tube with all the spacers in place, and if possible, a ruler with mm increments to show the difference between the steerer and too spacer

Wildly Boaring

cletus wrote: »

Can you take a picture on the steerer tube with all the spacers in place, and if possible, a ruler with mm increments to show the difference between the steerer and too spacer

This is the issue.
Went to take off again.

Loosened the cap
Then tightened the cap to a reasonable tightness.

There's a 0.5mm gap between the cap and the stack