Unofficial GBBR Megathread

ElSniperino

sharpy2010 wrote: »

Hey guys
So I've been giving a GBBR in a sorry state of repair and I've been able to fix it up with all the parts given to me and sourced aome easier ones for me to replace.
I have a few questions
1. The mag I have is broke (useless) where can I buy more (I don't know the brand/ I would say ACM as he bought it off rsov. Do you know what kind off and parts are currently compatible?
2. How can I tell if the gun is open bolt or closed bolt if I wanted to go ahead and buy upgrade parts

Hey, could you tell us what model it is? I'm afraid we can't do much without that.

sharpy2010

ElSniperino wrote: »

Hey, could you tell us what model it is? I'm afraid we can't do much without that.

As I said in original post I think it's acm

ElSniperino

I'm going to make a guess that it's an ACM M4. Apparently it's a WA clone so some parts may be transferable.

There are two different types of open/closed bolt in airsoft. There's the WE open/closed bolt where open means it has a bolt similar to real steel ones, where you can pull the bolt back and see the top of the mag, the loading ramp, etc, while closed bolt means when you pull the bolt back, all you see is a brass tube.

Real steel open/closed bolt means where the bolt rests when ready to fire. Open bolt guns have the bolt resting back, so it falls forward to chamber and fire the round i.e Mac-11, while closed bolt chambers the round and only fires when you pull the trigger i.e M4.

I'm guessing you mean the WE type of open/closed bolt. I'd hazard a guess that you have an open bolt.

sharpy2010

Ya so when I cock the rif I can see the mag I was just looking at upgrading everything inside Npas etc but just wanted to know so I can buy more mags for it preferably co2

Jsmurff

sharpy2010 wrote: »

Ya so when I cock the rif I can see the mag I was just looking at upgrading everything inside Npas etc but just wanted to know so I can buy more mags for it preferably co2

Pro-win and GHK make Co2 mags for it but Co2 (IMO) should only be used for all steal internals and a full metal receiver. Pro-win GG mags are pretty good in all climates.

WA and all it's clones are open bolt and are cross compatable in terms of parts although there is a few to tollerences at play as different manufacturers have diffrent sizes for some parts.

People who go down the Inokatsu/ G&P route seem to have no issues. RA-Tech aren't the be all and end all of controlling the FPS G&P offer NP (negative pressure) nozzles that do the same job as NPAS but is far more reliable as NPAS has been known to rattle loose and caus a spike or dip in fps.

ElSniperino

I may be utterly and completely blind (Which is entirely possible) but I can't see any G&P regulated nozzle for anything but the few specific models.

Jsmurff

Nozzle kit:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/gandp-loading-nozzle-set-for-wa-m4-negative-pressure.html#.VMda99kgGc0

Whole bolt:
http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/gandp-wa-m4-type-complete-bolt-carrier-for-wa-m4-gbb-series-n-p-chrome-coating.html#.VMdbQdkgGc0

G&P only manufactures WA system M4 parts.

EDIT: there are bolts and nozzles labeled as M4 and M16 there is a slight difference in length and weight AFIAK! But I could be wrong about that

ElSniperino

I'll be ordering the WE M14 tomorrow. When it arrives, I'll give a review here once I've gotten it and another after I play a game with it.

Jsmurff

Awesome it would be nice to hear how it operates in our specific climate as I have only seen reviews from users in mainland europe an th US

isaac azimov

As an owner of we m14, have to say fantastic piece, but be careful with the trigger group the original we frame can develop a fracture with abuse . I had to get ra tech group.Own 12 gbbrs we,ghk,vfc,wa you have to clean and lubricate them and without abuse no problems. Once dropped we pdw adout 6 feet onto tiles came away no damage.:D

ElSniperino

isaac azimov wrote: »

As an owner of we m14, have to say fantastic piece, but be careful with the trigger group the original we frame can develop a fracture with abuse . I had to get ra tech group.Own 12 gbbrs we,ghk,vfc,wa you have to clean and lubricate them and without abuse no problems. Once dropped we pdw adout 6 feet onto tiles came away no damage.:D

I'm jealous of your collection =P

I've read about many possible problems with the WE M14. I'm going to let the trigger box go until it's dead, then replace it with the drop-in set. Also going to get the wooden stock if money and other things allow.

isaac azimov

Does anyone own or know someone who has a KWA LM4 GBBR in ireland?Launched few years ago now with the kwa guys saying it would be a we tech killer but has its own share of faults and dislikes.

Jsmurff

Airsoft International volume 10 issue 9 was released for digital download today has a nice piece about gas mag repair and maintenance I'll see if I can't get a few snaps for ye

Jsmurff

isaac azimov wrote: »

Does anyone own or know someone who has a KWA LM4 GBBR in ireland?Launched few years ago now with the kwa guys saying it would be a we tech killer but has its own share of faults and dislikes.

I've seen a few guys in the UK forum who have WE's Wa's and KWA's and sware that there's no real performance difference from stock just that some parts are better then others and one might have a slight bit more longevity etc

Jsmurff

Here's the first few

isaac azimov

Thanks for those pages I saved them folder for reference, my tip for using gbbrs in winter is plenty silicone grease/oil and keep mags close to body ,under vest pockets keeps the gas warm and keep on semi auto only otherwise your mag will just vent out.

ElSniperino

Pistols are the worst for temperature variance. Interestingly enough, I find SMGs and GBBRs suffer less, though that may just be up to a much larger reservoir in relation to number of BB's.

Brut gas in the TM MP7 is fantastic. I may try run it through the M14.

isaac azimov

Most efficient gas user is my vfc g36c, can get over 3 and a half mags of bbs per fill of each mag. least efficient but best sounding and recoiling and clanking is my GHK aks 74u, but that is because everything ,bolt hammer etc ,is solid heavyweight grade steel.

ElSniperino

isaac azimov wrote: »

Most efficient gas user is my vfc g36c, can get over 3 and a half mags of bbs per fill of each mag. least efficient but best sounding and recoiling and clanking is my GHK aks 74u, but that is because everything ,bolt hammer etc ,is solid heavyweight grade steel.

I remember my WE G36c having similar efficiency. I think it's down to the way the mag is plastic coated. I have no scientific ground for it, but I think that's it.

And yeah, heavy metal will guzzle gas like nobody's business. That's why I'd go CO2 for those kind of guns.

isaac azimov

I have we g36k bought with we scar from meridan64 has harder recoil than vfc g36 , I agree the polymer mag casings help in preventing rapid cool down and are better in cold weather than any stanag or ak mags.

ElSniperino

Some AK mags have that faux-bakelite/real bakelite coating, which makes me wonder if that helps at all.

It's worth investigating because if having a slightly smaller magazine with a plastic coating, and even a thin metal shell around that, could increase efficiency by that much, it would really help the GBBR be economical.

Jsmurff

If you look back in the first couple of pages I posted a link to a review of GHK's AK105 and the user had the faux Bakelite mags (polymer) he swore that the ha consumtion was amazing but found the seals to be a tad on the brittle side but this could be due to running dry gas through them an not using enough silicone additive. Personally I would stay away from dry gas as it is harmful if you don't pay close attention to the condition of your rif. If cool down is an issue I would suggest getting you hands on se 100% silicone grease it's a comon tool of the plumbing trade so it should be available in all builder/ DIY stores. Apply a liberal coating to all the internals and seels. This should stop the silicone airesol in the green gas from condensing on the internals and causing them to lock back and venting your mags

isaac azimov

I use 100% silicone grease by the pallet- prevents all wear and tear every moving part has no friction and glides past carrier/rail etc.Otherwise you slowly grind tiny pits into surfaces and wear them away.

ElSniperino

To be honest I've never used grease. I'm not exactly sure where to apply it.

If I do get it, where would I put it on a GBBR?

isaac azimov

It has to be 100% silicone ,apply to the bolt carrier where it moves in the reciever or with M14 on the bolt carrier rails in the reciever. also apply to hammer assembly, firing pin and valve knocker. After heavy use clean off old grease as it can grain up slightly and cause abrasive wear itself and replace with fresh grease. APPLY grease when placing in storage also to prevent any corrision. These rules I also use with my real steel 10/22s.:pac:

ElSniperino

I'm guessing it's a bad idea to put it by the loading nozzle, then?

I think the MP7's only problem is friction with the loading nozzle. Jams it up.

Jsmurff

ElSniperino wrote: »

I'm guessing it's a bad idea to put it by the loading nozzle, then?

I think the MP7's only problem is friction with the loading nozzle. Jams it up.

Don't put it near the openings because if the grease gets inside the nozzle then it will just clog it and ruin any seels and hop rubber

Jsmurff

Also here are the last two pages I forgot to upload

ElSniperino

Jsmurff wrote: »

Don't put it near the openings because if the grease gets inside the nozzle then it will just clog it and ruin any seels and hop rubber

Noted.

Also going to try run it off a dry gas of some sort. I think too much silicone will also gum it up.

Jsmurff

ElSniperino wrote: »

Noted.

Also going to try run it off a dry gas of some sort. I think too much silicone will also gum it up.

Aply just enough to get the job done no more no less. Lubricants will inevitably collect enough gunk to render them useless and in turn jam the mechanism which is why you need a regular cleaning / maintenance schedule particularly when the rif is regular use