New Get City, post here when you get something new

o1s1n

paul79 wrote: »

New cab to look forward to congrats man , I’ve got Airlink converters for my cabs they are on the expensive side , but they do come highly recommended .

Parcel motel made them a hell of a lot cheaper to import though which is nice

Jack burton

Anyone got a link for one?

o1s1n

Here you go;

https://airlinktransformers.com/category/japan-uk-voltage-converters

Jack burton

Thanks! What VA do I need?

o1s1n

On their site it says to consider VA 1 to 1 with Watts when it comes to their products. I have two cabs running off a 500watt unit (so 500VA). (I have the UK-JA0500 with two outputs)

It's strange, the one listed on their site has all the same specs as mine but just the one output

https://airlinktransformers.com/product/japan-uk-voltage-converter-uk-ja0500

paul79

I have the same one as Oisin but I think my one only has only one output I must double check, They are worth spending the extra few quid on in my opinion .

KeRbDoG

Jack burton wrote: »

...Had thing go viral online last weekend

What was that?

alpahaeagle

Also arrived today.....My BBC Master.....


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BBC-Master-Series-Microcomputer-/192806003542?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=wPdVW3kDvb2AYVNyV3bDSJIjxEU%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc




Comes with the gen lock card.....


https://www.domesday86.com/?page_id=584

horgan_p

but for £20 I couldn't say no to it. Jap Super Famicom. Wanted one since I read the previews in C&VG back in the day.
Soon to get the superCIC and ingame reset mod board.
Question : my PAL SNES RGB cable when plugged into this gives a yellow tint.
Is the JAP RGB Cable different ?

CosmicSmash

You'll need a different cable for a Super Famicom, it's worth getting a good one too.

beejee

Just a short follow up from the ghosts n goblins, I tinkered around with it (swapped from boyne valley to manuka), and it lives! Theres a background graphics problem, and the music isn't playing, but im getting there. Fully playable at least

Retr0gamer

Is there a honey in joke I'm missing?

BGOllie

so honey jokes aside, what did you actually do to the board to get it to boot ?

beejee

Retr0gamer wrote: »

Is there a honey in joke I'm missing?

Just random nonsense, but did you know that boyne valley honey is a collaboration of irish bees and mysterious "international" bees?

beejee

BGOllie wrote: »

so honey jokes aside, what did you actually do to the board to get it to boot ?

Not much at all to be honest. I decided to avoid arcade cabinets (for obvious reasons) and stick with a supergun. Reseated the chips, inspected the board (nice and clean, however two of the spacers were missing on one side of the board, meaning that the ribbon cables are a bit more squashed than id like), checked all voltages very carefully.

Replacement ribbon cables would be a good idea regardless.

Im going to assume its a chip issue (eproms) because other jamma boards work A-ok in cabinets (reduces the possibility of it being power issues, but not 100%).

I suppose the next step I'll take is narrowing down which chip is supposed to be doing what. As far as I remember, there is a really neat division of labour on these old Capcom boards (a chip for the colour green, a chip for the colour red etc).

And if its a replaceable chip I'll get one burned, wouldn't trust myself with soldering.

I know "chips" isn't the right name, its just shorthand. In otherwords, I haven't done anything technical yet.

Doge

Few arcade bits came yesterday from ArcadeWorld.co.uk

2 Sanwa JLW Joysticks with bat tops, lots of Ultimarc "gold leaf" buttons - man these are the lightest feeling concave buttons ever,.going to be awesome for shmups but for other games they're almost too light!

One regular player button for use with a micro switch.

A molex to 12v illuminated buttons daisy chain - im only using 3 illuminated buttons but saves hassle.

And also a common / gnd daisy chain cable for the joysticks.

I've hit a bit of a snag in that the plates for joysticks are much wider than the original Arcade1UP joysticks, so I may have to mount them a bit to the left of the joystick hole. Hopefully I can get away with it.

Do you have a grinder ?
The spinning kind......not the app kind!

BGOllie

beejee wrote: »

Im going to assume its a chip issue (eproms) because other jamma boards work A-ok in cabinets (reduces the possibility of it being power issues, but not 100%).

I suppose the next step I'll take is narrowing down which chip is supposed to be doing what. As far as I remember, there is a really neat division of labour on these old Capcom boards (a chip for the colour green, a chip for the colour red etc).

yes, that's true of most arcade boards, before the edge connector one of the lats ICs are the color proms (or sometimes rams) typically.They're often fed through a buffer before the edge connector. But from you first screenshot I can see you're getting all 3 colors fine so it safe to rule those out.
As a crude generalisation, typically, an on the video circuit, an eprom issue often result in valid data patterns display in the wrong place, (ie: the addressing bus gets corrupted) or corrupted graphics (ie:the data sent back gets corrupted) . Ram issues can be all of the above and more

Here it looks like your background isn't being rendered in black (all 0s) properly and some lines a stuck high somewhere creating green.

here's the schematics, https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/G/Ghosts%20N%20Goblins%20Schematics.pdf

Check page 10. This is the top board and where the color signal gets generated. The color rams are on the right at locations 6d, 7d, 8d, three 2148 I would leave those alone for now.
I would look at the area where the entire graphics are multiplexed into existence (where the board decided what gets displayed on a specific pixel depending on what's being sent : sprites, background, text) ... the 74ls157 multiplexers at 3f,3e and 4e would be a good place to start probing for a stuck line. If they're ok, then look at the screen/scroll bus 74ls273 at 1E and take it from there down the line & skip to page 19 and the bottom board where the sprites and background are generated .
prob best to post further discussions on this in a the repair & mod thread

alpahaeagle

Bought this yesterday....


https://www.adverts.ie/arcade-retro/pc-engine-complete-region-unlocked/17096526

beejee

BGOllie wrote: »

yes, that's true of most arcade boards, before the edge connector one of the lats ICs are the color proms (or sometimes rams) typically.They're often fed through a buffer before the edge connector. But from you first screenshot I can see you're getting all 3 colors fine so it safe to rule those out.
As a crude generalisation, typically, an on the video circuit, an eprom issue often result in valid data patterns display in the wrong place, (ie: the addressing bus gets corrupted) or corrupted graphics (ie:the data sent back gets corrupted) . Ram issues can be all of the above and more

Here it looks like your background isn't being rendered in black (all 0s) properly and some lines a stuck high somewhere creating green.

here's the schematics, https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/G/Ghosts%20N%20Goblins%20Schematics.pdf

Check page 10. This is the top board and where the color signal gets generated. The color rams are on the right at locations 6d, 7d, 8d, three 2148 I would leave those alone for now.
I would look at the area where the entire graphics are multiplexed into existence (where the board decided what gets displayed on a specific pixel depending on what's being sent : sprites, background, text) ... the 74ls157 multiplexers at 3f,3e and 4e would be a good place to start probing for a stuck line. If they're ok, then look at the screen/scroll bus 74ls273 at 1E and take it from there down the line & skip to page 19 and the bottom board where the sprites and background are generated .
prob best to post further discussions on this in a the repair & mod thread

Won't mess the thread up anymore, but just to quickly say you obviously have a superior grasp of these things. I'm in my "collecting" phase, and once I'm done I'll get to the repairs stage. And I may be annoying you down the road

Doge

BrownFinger wrote: »

Do you have a grinder ?
The spinning kind......not the app kind!

Just a parkside "dremel".
I don't think it will be any use since the microswitches stick out almost as far as the plate and the screws will be right next to the buttons also:








It's a shame the SFII artwork has the round circle around the joysticks, I could get away with it if they weren't there, you wouldn't be able to tell the difference.

The throw is very short on the Sanwa JLW sticks which I love, I didn't know they made sticks with such a short throw.

Doge

Also the full range 3" speakers came today and the magnets are so big that the volume output is pretty low when used with the LEPY amp. Fortunately theres a UKeBay seller selling the SMSL amps that have twice the output wattage for half price at the moment. The frequency response is surprising awesome for such small speakers.

Doge

Man those gold leaf buttons are the job!

Took a little getting used at the start because you're missing that click, but I have to say they feel much better than microswitches.

It feels just like old school arcade games perhaps with a lighter touch required. Since they're not true leaf switches you can't adjust them but they're dirt cheap and silent and great for shmups. Your fingers wont tire with them either.

Have you tried unscrewing the buttons and letting the joystick plate in under the locking nut?
It will 100% fit if you are willing to make it fit!
Id chop that plate if needs be

The Last Bandit

Yep, hack it up until its centered. Remove the lock nut from the button and hotglue it in to free up a few more mm !!

Doge

I'll see if how much it will free up tomorrow. Thanks lads!

Jack burton

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt1vj1dlOCc/

beejee

Jack burton wrote: »

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bt1vj1dlOCc/

Very nice! Unique too! Should have guessed from your name, but John carpenter is great, noticed "they live" amongst your pictures

Touch Fuzzy Get Dizzy

I got some new posters (but doesn't seem to load the post, so try this https://pbs.twimg.com/media/DzTBJSPWoAA2_9h.jpg

Doge

Thanks for the help earlier guys,.I decided to take a junior hacksaw to it and cut the right hand side of the plate back as far as the microswitches and use the diagonal mounting holes for the screws.
Turns out the diagonal mounting holes line up perfectly with the holes for the stock Arcade1UP joystick!





Yay! This saved me from posting it in the MAME of Shame thread.
Also there was no need to use hot glue on the buttons as theres enough room for the locking nuts to coexist.

The dust covers for the Sanwa JLW stick are much wider yhan the stock ones and cover the text for the directions so decided to drill a bigger hole into the stock dust covers using a cone / step drill bit. ( The same I used to enlarge the hole for the volume pot).
Unfortunately it was between sizes so there's a bit of gap around the shaft, hard to see in the photo:



I've drilled the other one much slower and managed to get it to fit the shaft perfectly and tightly,.so player 2 can have the one with the slighly bigger hole unless I order another one.

Sorry for spamming this thread btw, I'll keep posting my future progress in the Arcade1UP thread.