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Detailing chat
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Howdy folks. Haven't posted here in a while.
My interest in detailing and minding my car hasn't waned, but the shed I used to keep the car in check has been full of sh*te since a half-finished gardening project last summer (shed was used for storing lengths of decking, carcassing timber, paving slabs, etc. etc. which made sense, but then as the summer rolled on I started taking stuff for the sake of it, from a kitchen place that was closing, so now the shed is full of wardrobes, sheets of MDF, etc. that I've no real use for, and should never have taken in the first place).
So I'm back to having the idea in my head of trying to clean the shed up and make it a bit more car friendly. What I'm gonna ask is, is there anyone here with a dedicated detailing space, and if so, how are ye organising your stuff? Last year when I was very into the detailing, I used to use a cheapo wardrobe from homestoreandmore to keep my gear in. Worked well, and was handy (and it's currently in their March promo if anyone wants to get one).
However, I've decided that a desk/work bench with storage is the best way forward. So was curious to see how others may be storing and organising their stuff? I was thinking of just making a desk with pigeon-hole style storage under it, and go from there, but not sure if there's a better or more convenient way of doing it.
This is the set up i had:
This is the rough idea of what I'm considering:
(naturally, this was whipped up in 2 mins, so the angles in the pic make no sense, etc)
The hanging rails for hanging bottles on and the likes. Idea is to seperate things by their use (ie; a shelf for polishing/waxing, a shelf for wheels/tyres, a shelf for glass care, a shelf for basic bodywork, wash mitts, etc.) and then use the centre for throwing buckets and such under.
Anything obvious I'd be overlooking?0 -
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Ah, I think I probably do put too much thought into it alright, but the shed is in tatters and if i just empty it and go back to a wardrobe situation (as above) I know i'll let more and more sh*te add up in the shed itself. Whereas if i spend a couple of euro and a lot of hours, and I tidy it all up, paint it, put down an 'anti fatigue' floor and build a dedicated desk to store everything, I'll be much pickier about the place and wont allow it to fall into disrepair again.
(That's the theory anyway!)
As it stands, this is how the place looks:
And it's annoying me, cos I can't do anything with it like that. Even just getting the pressure washer outside is a job in itself. So I want a completely empty shed, with all my gear in one dedicated area (the wall to the left in the above photo). It'll be about a month before it's finished but i just thought it'd make sense now to get input on the best way to organise things so i can work on that going forward (rather than finishing it and posting a pic saying 'look at this' and everyone replies with "you know what would have been a better idea..".0 -
Deleted User wrote: »Ah, I think I probably do put too much thought into it alright, but the shed is in tatters and if i just empty it and go back to a wardrobe situation (as above) I know i'll let more and more sh*te add up in the shed itself. Whereas if i spend a couple of euro and a lot of hours, and I tidy it all up, paint it, put down an 'anti fatigue' floor and build a dedicated desk to store everything, I'll be much pickier about the place and wont allow it to fall into disrepair again.
(That's the theory anyway!)
As it stands, this is how the place looks:
And it's annoying me, cos I can't do anything with it like that. Even just getting the pressure washer outside is a job in itself. So I want a completely empty shed, with all my gear in one dedicated area (the wall to the left in the above photo). It'll be about a month before it's finished but i just thought it'd make sense now to get input on the best way to organise things so i can work on that going forward (rather than finishing it and posting a pic saying 'look at this' and everyone replies with "you know what would have been a better idea..".
Know the feeling bought a long term project car there at start of year and garage is mass pile of parts and detail bits have been placed in various places that's an arse to get out :rolleyes:
My only suggestion to your design above is more tea and haribo is needed
:D 0 -
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My advice will most likely get me hung, so take it with the grain of salt it deserves.
I've a DAS 6 Pro. I machine polished a Citroen Xsara (01), Renault Megane (03), Ford Focus (00), Toyota Rav 4 (04) and a Peugeot 206 (02) off the top of my head. So I've a little experience, but nothing noteworthy.
My opinion is that hex logic pads are a waste of time and for the work they do; are overpriced. I've had a few of them from starting off and replacing them (Not sure of the strengths, but I believe I've used orange, green, white, black, yellow and red pads).
I eventually ordered a microfiber one. Even though it still took an age to get anywhere, it was a lot faster than the hex pads. Now, I'm not saying hex pads don't work or anything, but I'm just saying that they're very slow to get anywhere. If you're very worried about damaging paint, they seem a safe bet (but I literally had to sand the paint off the Rav4 to do any damage.. that wasn't intentional, though.. woops
). I don't think it's really possible to damage paint (certainly not with a DAS6 anyway). Not unless you leave it in one place on the bonnet, on full power, and leave it overnight whilst you go to bed.
Also, to save you a bit more time, get Curran to give you the most aggressive polish he has. Unless your paint work is made of butter, you'll still be standing there thinking of all the things that went wrong in your life for long enough without using a laid back polish that doesn't want to do any work.
I love the novelty factor of starting new things and detailing was a bit thing for me as I hadn't a notion what was going on (and still don't a lot of the time), so had to be hand-held through it by the chaps on here; but when it came time to machine polish, I am pretty sure I could feel myself aging.
As I say, take my advice with a pinch of salt and all that, as the other lads here will know best, but my advice is to get the most aggressive pad and most aggressive polish combo that you can. And take pictures. Set the camera up on a tripod or such so you can see accurate before and afters. Otherwise you will convince yourself you've done nothing, when you've actually done loads, and vice versa. The pics don't lie :P
Here are two quick before and afters of the hex pads on the Rav4. You can see that they do indeed work, but they just take a long, long time, to get the desired results.
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Deleted User wrote: »you'll still be standing there thinking of all the things that went wrong in your life for long enough without using a laid back polish that doesn't want to do any work.
LOL
I do agree with you about the fact that it can often take a long time to get anywhere but you have to understand that anyone can buy these products without proving anything beforehand so it massively reduces the risk of damage to paint along with disappointment rather than just a bit of disappointment from not progressing fast.
I have quite a lot of experience with paint correction and the best advice I can give to anyone starting is that you need to get into the rhythm and technique with products that are slow acting before you try out aggressive polish/pad combos.0 -
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Firstly to address machine polishing with a Dual Action polisher. I get the feeling that some people expect miracles within minutes just because you are using a machine. Paint correction doesnt come easy - why do you think a detailing job by a pro is so expensive....well two reasons, their skills, and their time. It simply doesnt happen in mintues. With a rotary polisher, a full paint correction, Ive been involved in 30+ hours of correction alone; thats not including the prep work, and the after wipe down, applying protection, and doing the glass, tyres and trim, etc.
Now consider doing 30+ hours correction with a rotary, and remove the risk involved, and you are looking at 60+ hours to get the same results. You simply cant wave a magic wand and its done. Its not a matter of passing the polisher over an area once, and it comes up like new. The areas, say a 2ft x 2ft square requires the pad to pass over the surface area, at least 6 times in a 'set'. A pass to spread, 2 to heat up the polish, 3 to work and break down the polish and another to refine. So if you have a 6" pad, and you are supposed to overlap approx 30% of your previous pass, you'll pass the polisher back and forth 5 times, for one pass, and then 5 more times to complete the 'set' - that set with a DA is going to take a least two, if not three repeats before it can match what a rotary can do - can you imagine how long it takes now??? Thats before you stop to wash out pads that are caked in polish, and have a cuppa tea!
Now consider having to change to a 3" pad to do the smaller areas - change the backing plate, pad, work in the awkward to reach areas....detailing isnt fun sometimes, but when you are done, you can at least convince yourself that it was worth it!
Ian; give the large area you have to do, you wont have any interest in paint correction as such, perhaps Im assuming there...but you will be looking at enhancement - restoring the shine and gloss. Thats a quicker and easier process than paint correction I have outlined above. Essentially one 'set' with a finishing pad and polish will bring out the deep luster, gloss, etc, but defect will remain, but only obvious when up closer. Id consider maybe getting two or three finishing pads and a medium polish, and go with that; go after enhancement rather than correction, as with the sheer size, its the only realistic results, unless you've arms like Arnie and time of a retiree.0 -
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