General chat thread... Links, pictures, banter etc

D3V!L

I read the 1200 Tiger is supposed to be on par with the GSA. Has some nice extras over the beemer too like electronic wind screen.

arybvtcw0eolkf

Emmersonn wrote: »

I have a 151 Super Tenere. Might be worth his while to have a cut off one if he can. This is my second one . I had almost 80k on the first one and have 40k on the present one. Nothing used except consumables. Handles well and comfortable 2 up. Build quality is good.

That was one of my first suggestions.

arybvtcw0eolkf

D3V!L wrote: »

I read the 1200 Tiger is supposed to be on par with the GSA. Has some nice extras over the beemer too like electronic wind screen.

Oh I think it probably surpasses the GSA, esp with its heated seat

I've two mates riding the 1200 Tiger, they're a savage bike.

D3V!L

Paityn Acidic Rattan wrote: »

Oh I think it probably surpasses the GSA, esp with its heated seat

Jaysus , dont loose the run of yourself there !! :rolleyes:

arybvtcw0eolkf

D3V!L wrote: »

Jaysus , dont loose the run of yourself there !! :rolleyes:

Don't worry I'm still loyal to the BMW brand.

Can't wait to get my 1200GS back. Just waiting for the parts to come in.

Basically what happened was when I switched off the bike the lights would stay lighting and I'd have to repeat the process.

Then it got worse, when I switched off the bike and remove the key the engine and lights would stay on and I'd have to reinsert the key and do it again.

It was intermittent at first but then I dropped into Bikeworld to look at some bikes with my son and I got an EWS warning on the display, googled it and found its a common fault so I dropped into JD's on the way home and luckily it happened outside the showroom's.

They took it in straight away and gave me the little 800GS for the few days, no quibbles. Maybe I'm being a little harsh on the 800GS after getting off the 1200GS, but I still prefer my son's older 800GS (which I almost exchanged my 1200 for).

Sonics2k

I had an odd little problem the other day, which seems to crop up quite randomly but did cause me to be about 40 minutes late for work.

Essentially, the kill switch doesn't switch back 'on' properly after turning off the bike. Caused a bit of a hassle when I though the battery/electrics had gone, except all the lights were on but no power when trying to turn on the bike.

I've also found that my indicators are 'slow' to turn on at this time of year. It can take several clicks for the indicators to start flashing, even when the click-thingy is all the way over. Can be extremely frustrating when driving at night in the harsh wind and rain.

arybvtcw0eolkf

Sonics2k wrote: »

I had an odd little problem the other day, which seems to crop up quite randomly but did cause me to be about 40 minutes late for work.

Essentially, the kill switch doesn't switch back 'on' properly after turning off the bike. Caused a bit of a hassle when I though the battery/electrics had gone, except all the lights were on but no power when trying to turn on the bike.

I've also found that my indicators are 'slow' to turn on at this time of year. It can take several clicks for the indicators to start flashing, even when the click-thingy is all the way over. Can be extremely frustrating when driving at night in the harsh wind and rain.

Just turn the bike off with the key and leave the kill switch alone, or get it fixed.

Sounds like your indicators are on the blink.

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Paityn Acidic Rattan wrote: »

Just turn the bike off with the key and leave the kill switch alone, or get it fixed.

Sounds like your indicators are on the blink.

Would it be a dodgy relay?

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Getting my bike back today after getting the spots fitted, had trouble with the chain when riding it to the repair shop, the sprockets and chain need doing, is €150 for the kit about right? I feel like shooting someone.

Just checked the mileage on the invoice, I’ve done 600 miles since July, no idea how much I’ve spent on repairs since then, outside the extras I put on.

Not nice especially with Christmas next week effectively.

listermint

Addisyn Screeching Sickbed wrote: »

Getting my bike back today after getting the spots fitted, had trouble with the chain when riding it to the repair shop, the sprockets and chain need doing, is €150 for the kit about right? I feel like shooting someone.

Just checked the mileage on the invoice, I’ve done 600 miles since July, no idea how much I’ve spent on repairs since then, outside the extras I put on.

Not nice especially with Christmas next week effectively.

Depends on the Quality of the Kit,

If its cheap kit then the price is expensive if its decent kit then the price is about right.

e.g you can pick up cheap kit for about 70-80 Euro.

Alkers

Sonics2k wrote:

I've also found that my indicators are 'slow' to turn on at this time of year. It can take several clicks for the indicators to start flashing, even when the click-thingy is all the way over. Can be extremely frustrating when driving at night in the harsh wind and rain.

You can get some contact cleaner or wd40 and spray it into the switch and click it from side to side a few times. It's probably a bit corroded or dirty.
The kill switch is for emergencies, you don't need to use it to turn off the bike

Hotblack Desiato

Avoid using the kill switch except for emergencies.

If it's still possible to get Servisol it's the best contact cleaner ever made, squirt it into a switch, leave it for a few minutes and flick it back and forth and it's as good as new.

GiftofGab

Apologies - I know absolutely nothing about bikes.
I recently bought a 50cc scooter but have noticed the battery voltage guage is increasing. I got it towards 1/4 voltage, now the gauge increased and is at about 3/4 till the top. What does this mean? How do I fix it?
Thanks in advance.

arybvtcw0eolkf

Well here's the little GS I've been riding all this week.



When I got it first I hated the thing, nothing appealed to me. But I judged in haste, it actually grew on me a little but it has its flaws.

The engine, below 4000 rpm its guts and filtering in traffics requires careful gear selection. But once it hits 4000 rpm on the TFT dash it flies off, I mean its surprisingly quick and 100kph to 140kph ~ ie overtaking on a motorway felt quicker than my 1200GS, but that's probably down to the fact that with the tiniest screen BMW could passibly get away with calling a screen, its useless.

In fact that speed is impossible in the rain as you get the full last of spray from the road, and a lot of rain reflected up off the thing they call a screen.

The suspension is nice, but the forks as easily bottomed out under braking.

The switches are TINY, operating them with bulky winter gloves is nearly impossible.

Its a miser on petrol, but most sub litre bikes are.

It also needs hard guards, and if you're to go off road with it. And its very capable you'll need engine bars too.

So to make it a useful bike you're looking at spending and additional 300-500 Euro on it, and that's before you include luggage.

I'll add more as I recall.

Over all its a fun engine, it really is. But it takes a fistful of gas to get it off the line but then it goes like the clappers.

I'd have liked to have played around with it for another two day, but when I got my R1200GS back today I was delighted (best bike I've ever owned).

The photo was taken today when I do some light enduro riding with it.

I enjoyed it. Would I buy a new one, no.. But I could see myself owning a secondhand one when someone spends the money on it to make it something I could live it.

D3V!L

GiftofGab wrote: »

Apologies - I know absolutely nothing about bikes.
I recently bought a 50cc scooter but have noticed the battery voltage guage is increasing. I got it towards 1/4 voltage, now the gauge increased and is at about 3/4 till the top. What does this mean? How do I fix it?
Thanks in advance.

Sounds like a run away battery if you ask me. That voltage is just going to keep going till it blows !!

Top up the battery with battery juice. Be careful not to let the electrons out though.

Esel

GiftofGab wrote: »

Apologies - I know absolutely nothing about bikes.
I recently bought a 50cc scooter but have noticed the battery voltage guage is increasing. I got it towards 1/4 voltage, now the gauge increased and is at about 3/4 till the top. What does this mean? How do I fix it?
Thanks in advance.

What is the make / model?

ayux4rj6zql2ph

437 photos of the Cork Toy Run from 09-12-2018

https://www.facebook.com/permalink.php?story_fbid=10156199614329072&id=585174071&__xts__[0]

GiftofGab

Esel wrote: »

What is the make / model?

It's a Neco Azzuro.

Esel

GiftofGab wrote: »

It's a Neco Azzuro.

What exactly is the guage reading/showing?

Can you post a couple of pics of the guage, one with the ignition on but engine not running, and one with the engine running.

Do you have the owner's manual?

D3V!L

20% everything on Louis.ie with voucher "451"

I think things may get messy. Thats a lot of cash off a slip-on Akrapovic

Emmersonn

https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-6504099/Guy-Martin-pleads-not-guilty-having-fake-Irish-driving-licence.html

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Anyone know do Halfords sell motorcycle batteries? I've just had my chain and sprocket done and now being told my battery isn't great, what the actual fcuk :mad: Can i put in an 18V instead of a 12V to cope with the extras i had fitted?

ayux4rj6zql2ph

More of the Cork Toy Run

https://www.facebook.com/henry.obrien.7/media_set?set=a.2338833169463588&type=3

Esel

12V. Get a Yuasa. There may be a choice of a more powerful 12V in the range.

Do you have a battery charger?

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Esel wrote: »

12V. Get a Yuasa. There may be a choice of a more powerful 12V in the range.

Do you have a battery charger?

I don't as i would be half afraid to take the battery out considering what i now have connected to it. An oximiser is it?

Gavin

The limitation is not going to be the battery, it's going to be the alternator on the bike with respect to any doo hickeys that you've added. At a simple level, the battery is basically responsible for starting the bike. (of course if you have a bad battery, then yeah, you'll need to replace that)

Whatever bike you have, check out the specs to see what sort of wattage the alternator produces. Then you need to add up the requirements of the various components to see if the alternator will put out enough electricity to run them.

Cienciano

I hate this time of year when the roads seem to be wet 24 hours a day even though there's no rain.

GBX

Tis ****é. That and the rest of the damp leaves still on the ground.

Max Headroom

Cienciano wrote: »

I hate this time of year when the roads seem to be wet 24 hours a day even though there's no rain.

Where in Dublin are you................:p..seems its rained every day at some stage for weeks

ayux4rj6zql2ph

Gavin wrote: »

The limitation is not going to be the battery, it's going to be the alternator on the bike with respect to any doo hickeys that you've added. At a simple level, the battery is basically responsible for starting the bike. (of course if you have a bad battery, then yeah, you'll need to replace that)

Whatever bike you have, check out the specs to see what sort of wattage the alternator produces. Then you need to add up the requirements of the various components to see if the alternator will put out enough electricity to run them.

It's a DL650. I have heated grips, fog lights, twin power port, are the main ones, i don't use them all at once either. The bike starts fine, first go every time.