chance of a lifetime "King's Ametyst"

copper12

finished fitting the mast steps 22 in all
and the backstay plate

spaceHopper

copper12 wrote: »

finished fitting the mast steps 22 in all
and the backstay plate

I'm confused why are you putting steps on the mast? Most boats don't have them and will they not get in the way of the halyards for hoisting sails?

copper12

Evening all
Mast steps?
Since I intend to sail alone’ or at the very short handed.
I will eventually need to go up the mast. :eek:
Using a bosons’ chair, seems a lot more dangerous; than using a safety harness and clamp.
Inspection of the mast’ becomes a routine, rather than a challenge of nerves, and having to organise someone to lend a hand.
Halyards getting caught can be easily sorted by adding some string between the steps and the upper shrouds at least that what I have read.
The overall cost of having to install the steps’ was so small as to make it foolish not to.
As to why most boats do not have steps’ on there mast.
I would guess it’s mostly down to cost and aesthetics; overall cost for me’ to install the steps was about 60€ aluminium bar’ pop rivets’ drill bit’ and paint.
Only time will tell if I made the right decision.
I would rather be looking at the mast steps.
Than looking for them.:p

spaceHopper

copper12 wrote: »

Evening all
Mast steps?
Since I intend to sail alone’ or at the very short handed.
I will eventually need to go up the mast. :eek:
Using a bosons’ chair, seems a lot more dangerous; than using a safety harness and clamp.
Inspection of the mast’ becomes a routine, rather than a challenge of nerves, and having to organise someone to lend a hand.
Halyards getting caught can be easily sorted by adding some string between the steps and the upper shrouds at least that what I have read.
The overall cost of having to install the steps’ was so small as to make it foolish not to.
As to why most boats do not have steps’ on there mast.
I would guess it’s mostly down to cost and aesthetics; overall cost for me’ to install the steps was about 60€ aluminium bar’ pop rivets’ drill bit’ and paint.
Only time will tell if I made the right decision.
I would rather be looking at the mast steps.
Than looking for them.:p

Is that not what the grandchildren are for, don't all kids love climbing, hang on now they'll be up and down it every time you turn your back. They'll be up there shouting "therrrreee she blows" :P

copper12

Evening all
When does a problem become a blessing in disguise?
When you run the engine for the last time’ before you put her in the water’ and a problem shows up. you find a potentially bigger issue’ that you can sort out while you have the tools’ and the time available’ and close to home. Outside my backdoor.
Ran the engine, everything’s fine, batteries charging, relay working, alternator ok, then I notice there’s no water coming from the exhaust, so I checked the pump, then the heat exchanger, and finely decided it had to be the exhaust manifold; so removed it and found it was almost totally blocked.
While cleaning this, I checked the frost plugs, luckily I did; two were as thick a tissue paper, so I removed all six and will replace them ASAP.
While the heat exchanger was blocked with sediment, rather than flaking rust, a good clean with drill bits make up of coat hangers’ cleared the channels’ a good soaking, then freezing for a couple of hours cleaned out some more, and finally electrolyse for the last bits and pieces.
While I nearly lost the plot’ at the beginning now I am pleased that I found a potential problem, something that I should have checked long before now.
I also gave the bilge a coat of paint. :pac:

fergal.b

copper12 wrote: »

Evening all
When does a problem become a blessing in disguise?
When you run the engine for the last time’ before you put her in the water’ and a problem shows up. you find a potentially bigger issue’ that you can sort out while you have the tools’ and the time available’ and close to home. Outside my backdoor.
Ran the engine, everything’s fine, batteries charging, relay working, alternator ok, then I notice there’s no water coming from the exhaust, so I checked the pump, then the heat exchanger, and finely decided it had to be the exhaust manifold; so removed it and found it was almost totally blocked.
While cleaning this, I checked the frost plugs, luckily I did; two were as thick a tissue paper, so I removed all six and will replace them ASAP.
While the heat exchanger was blocked with sediment, rather than flaking rust, a good clean with drill bits make up of coat hangers’ cleared the channels’ a good soaking, then freezing for a couple of hours cleaned out some more, and finally electrolyse for the last bits and pieces.
While I nearly lost the plot’ at the beginning now I am pleased that I found a potential problem, something that I should have checked long before now.
I also gave the bilge a coat of paint. :pac:

Sorry to hear that but better to go now when you don't need it than when you do.
I feel sometimes boats are out to test our patience I spent the day last Friday out with the sonar looking for the boat only to find out when I got home that I never pressed the recoord button


.

copper12

Evening all
I have got a little bit done since I last posted
I had to remove the exhaust manifold’ after it had become blocked by the raw water impeller breaking apart. Just as well’ as I had not checked the frost plugs at anytime; while cleaning the manifold I replaced the frost plugs. I coated the edge with Indian shellac just a tiny amount’ I replaced six in all, so now the engine is running like a kitten’ well more like a tomcat.
I also secured the mast spreaders’ not permanent’ as I will have to dissemble them again when I am ready for transport. I will be getting a survey done soon’ second week in May; after that, provided I don’t have too much to do’ she will be ready to put in the water.
I refitted the original traveller for the Genoa and the jib.
I have come across another traveller .
Should I fit this as well’ inside the original traveller ‘would it make things easier or even more complicated?
She was original set up with two winches one either side should I fit two more or should I stick with the original design and work with what I have?
Any advice will be welcome

spaceHopper

Have you winches on the coach house roof for raising sails? Or are they on the mast? The extra set of winches look newer and are probably double action winches, they go fast clock wise and slower but anti but give you better gearing when the sail are loaded

pedroeibar1

Hi Copper,
An ‘inside’ traveller/track would not be useful IMO. The blocks/pulleys that are on the existing track do not look correct – you should have a fairlead that slides along the track and has a piston plunger thingy that slots into a hole to fix it in the correct position. The fairleads are moved to suit the size of the sail and ensure that the correct shape is maintained – e.g. if you have a full genny the fairlead is right aft, but if you reef the genny the fairlead has to be moved forward to deliver the sheet at the correct angle to the clew of the sail. The easiest way to do this is to reposition the windward fairlead, reef and then tack onto the new fairlead. Moving the fairleads to suit the sail is similar to changing gears on a car to suit engine revs. (and does much the same in terms of efficiency).

What I would consider doing with the new track (‘cos you mainly will sail alone) it to fit it as a ‘horse’ – at right angles to the sides of the boat forward of the mast. That way you could have a boom foresail (aka self-tacking jib) and just one sheet, so when you go about the jib tacks itself onto the new side by sliding down the track. That way you do not have to worry about casting off and hauling jib sheets.

Winches – a second set of cockpit winches are useful only if you intend using a spinnaker, as an existing winch would be in use for a genoa/jib sheet. You could easily get by without them, or if they are better than the existing ones / two-speed I would change them over. From memory you have one for the main/genny halyards but if you don’t use one for that role.

copper12

Space hopper Pedro thanks for the response
I have taken two photos of the set up
While the traveller track is original design it can be set at any angle
There is a set screw that you finger tighten this lifts the opposite side of the fairlead when pressure is applied from the other side it tightens in the track self locking so to speak.
It travels along the track easily enough
The second photo I have seen this on other boats when I have visited marinas trying to figure out where everything goes and wondered if this track was for a jib
Would putting the second track give me more options?
A self tacking jib system I could easily make up if it is the right option.
Thanks again

pedroeibar1

Ok, I see what you mean more clearly now, but there is no simple answer YET until you see how the sails look. You are entering the world of air flow and sail dynamics, and importantly, a yoke called ‘the slot’. I don’t know how much practical sailing you’ve done since we last met so excuse me if I’ve overdone it in the explanation below.

The sails are the ‘motor’ that use the wind to drive your yacht and just like a mechanical engine they need to be properly made (cut) and properly tuned (trimmed). Trimming is done by pulling in or easing out the sheets. Trimming the sails differently allows your boat to sail efficiently at different angles to the wind. Putting it very simply, when sailing into or across the wind the drive comes from the outer curved surface of the sail (nearest the bow), so how it angles to the wind is critical. Upwind most of the drive comes from the front/leading edge of the sails. Sailing downwind the force comes from a ‘push’ from behind.

Moving the sheets in or out changes the angle of the sail to the wind; by moving the fairleads the physical aerofoil shape of the sail is altered (flatter or fuller). Importantly the vertical gap between the two sails is opened or closed. This gap is called the ‘slot’ and is a big influence on wind-flow over the sail and its efficiency/power – a bad slot or anything causing turbulence in the slot affects sail performance negatively - that’s the reason racing yachts do not have mast steps.

The importance of the slot is very obvious in heavy weather – if the wind is ‘uneven’, instead of reefing, a trick during gusts is to ease the main down its track. Doing this results in closing the slot which compresses the wind flowing between the genoa and main and causes turbulence. This back-winds the main thereby reducing the size of the working surface of the main (because the front bit does most of the work). Too narrow or too wide a slot will reduce the efficiency of the sails.

The genoa tracks you have in place already are fine, but they really are suited to ‘fixed size’ sails - e..g. a big genoa, a medium genoa and a jib. When the sails are a fixed size the fairleads can be positioned correctly and then left in place. If my memory is right you plan on a furling genoa? Not a problem if you mark (coloured thread) the foot of the sail and then position the fairleads accordingly. (you’ll just have to fit a spare jib sheet / re-reeve the existing one after changing sail size. I’d also fit stoppers at the track ends.
The only reason I could foresee for an ‘inner’ track is for a staysail, and I’m not sure of the effect it would have on the slot without seeing it with the sails in place. Mayber your sail maker contact could have a look?

Self-tacking jib. – The sail(s) in the space between the mast and the forestay (foretriangle) provide a lot of power and that is important in light winds. However, when it is very windy you will need a winch to haul in the jib. That takes a while, so if you are on your own who steers the boat? So were I to be going on long passages I’d fit the gear for a self-tacker, and use it only in heavy weather.

The last photo shows a ‘fife rail’ – used there to keep halyards etc. tidy and –I’d guess – to prevent the genoa from sweeping the wind funnels off as it comes across when tacking! It’s called a fife rail because that is where the sailor who played the fife used to sit when the anchor was to be weighed.

Other raggies migh have different views?
Finally, if you put a potted plant on your foredeck :eek: like those in that last photo, I’ll pretend not to know you!!:p:p:)

copper12

Thanks for the detailed response Pedro
The fife rail; seems like a good idea’ it would give something to latch onto at the mast’ and like you said stop the Genoa from sweeping the wind funnels off.
The plant?? them fellows be French.
So taking into consideration everything; I will most likely leave things as is, one track’ until I get to know how she sails.
If I can get the other winches to fit’ I might do that, as it would be a lot easier now’ than later.
I have to have a think about that

Donie75

Just jumping in here but I have followed your thread with interest. You've done an amazing job, well done.
The track along the toe rail will be fine for reaching but you will find it difficult to get upwind with such a wide slot. Typically when reaching or off the breeze a bit, an outboard sheet will be run through a pad eye on the toe rail. This prevents the leach of the jib from getting too loose, opens the slot and gives better performance. I think you may need another track further forward and inboard to get better pointing. Typically that vintage of boat would have used smaller jibs for going upwind.
Looking at the old photo it appears that there is something mounted on the deck inboard of the aft chainplate/shroud. Could this be a job track?

copper12

Thanks for the reply Donie
The original set up was one track two fairleads
One set forward one set aft on a single track
That’s in the older photo
In the newer photo you can see a second track this is what I have seen on other boats and I was wondering if it would be easies to set the jib and Genoa if the had there own tracks

pedroeibar1

Donie75 wrote: »

Looking at the old photo it appears that there is something mounted on the deck inboard of the aft chainplate/shroud. Could this be a job track?

Well spotted, it looks like a 9" piece of track, probably for the staysail?

copper12

Evening all
I am still tipping away a lot of small job need to be done; they take up as much time as some of the bigger jobs I have done.
I will not be refitting the gas hob’ it is not worth the hassle with the insurance, instead I am fitting a Coleman stove duel fuel .
I will most likely fit the smaller track along the windows

pedroeibar1

Copper, looking at the 'delivery angles' (the angle of the sheets from the winches to the cleats) I'm sorta uncertain if they will work well.. Other raggies have a view?

copper12

Evening all
Pedro thanks for the input
The winch on the steel bracket are the original one’s and I put them back in the same position.
the newer winches’ well it’s a gustamate, if I fit the inner traveller the they should do; I hope:eek:
Only time will tell’ the new winches handle travel over the older winches and do not interfere with them.
I fitted the Coleman burner
To awkward trying to refit the gas burner’ having to build a locker that drain to the outside.
The hassle of fitting a gas alarm’ solenoid, the duel fuel burner should do
While it was not intended to be used on a swinging boat’ I modified the cradle and fitted a counter weight.:D

pedroeibar1

copper12 wrote: »

Pedro thanks for the input
The winch on the steel bracket are the original one’s and I put them back in the same position.
the newer winches’ well it’s a gustamate, if I fit the inner traveller the they should do; I hope:eek:
Only time will tell’ the new winches handle travel over the older winches and do not interfere with them.

Thanks Copper. I was not clear enough – what I was referring to is the ‘tail’ of the sheet, the bit from the winch drum to the cleat. In photo 108 above the sheet on the S/S winch looks as if it has to go forward and inside itself to be cleated. Originally I’d guess it went back at a nice angle to the cleat now being used for the new winch. Then, on the new winch (on the wood pillar) the angle of the sheet goes sharply down from the winch drum to the old cleat. Those angles would IMO make it very difficult to sheet in / ease out without removing a sheet entirely from the cleat. (But……maybe I'm wrong or maybe the photo distorts it a bit and I’m misreading what is going on…….)

copper12

There still a few jobs to be done
One of the last original pieces has taken pride of place
Hull No 81
1966

GDANSKA STOCZNIA JACHTOWA

przedsiebiorstwo panstwowe

GDANSK-STOGI. UL. SIENNA 45
NR.KOLEJNY 81 ROKBUD 1966

MADE IN POLAND

copper12

Evening all
I had a marine surveyor look at Coe Na Mara the other day.
I needed two things; to see if she Is truly sea worthy’ and for insurance.
I will have his report in a couple of days.
I striped out as much as I could’ so he could look where ever he wanted’ something he appreciated.
Engine panels lockers’ you name it, if it could be taken out I took it out.
It gave me a chance to give them one last coat of varnish.
Boy did he check everything; three and a half hours he was at it.
The end result’ was that I could be proud of what I achieved so far’ repairs to both’ CEO Na Mara and the mast’ were in his opinion top class.
So next step is to run the halyards’ and get the turnbuckles ready.
I have also made a new teak holder for the life raft.
Then get her transported to the boatyard.
It will probably take a couple of weeks to get this done.

copper12

Evening all
The lift raft holder turned out well
It’s a copy of the original
I am still putting finishing touches to the cabin
I had some bent mahogany that was left over
Someone had spent a lot of time steaming’ scribing, these bits of wood’’ 60 years ago.
It seemed a shame to burn them, so I made use of them; I made a map holder.:D

spaceHopper

copper12 wrote: »

Evening all
The lift raft holder turned out well
It’s a copy of the original
I am still putting finishing touches to the cabin
I had some bent mahogany that was left over
Someone had spent a lot of time steaming’ scribing, these bits of wood’’ 60 years ago.
It seemed a shame to burn them, so I made use of them; I made a map holder.:D

Looks great hope you get lots of use out of the map holder and none what so ever out of the life raft.

copper12

Evening all
I have been waiting for a couple of good days so I could have a look at the sails.
It turns out that I have several in various conditions.
Three storms sails’ two jibs, and a mainsail. All look new to me never used.
One Genoa in fairly good condition, it should get me true the learning fazes.
One jib in need of some repairs.
A newish mainsail’ I have to change the slugs’ and modify the aluminium slug’ this I have already done.
I just need to reattach them back on.
And three other sails’ from different boats; one I should be ably to modify to a hank on sail; it has a fairly big luff rope’ I think it was originally on a roiling furlough.
Well at least that’s the plan
Some of the sail hanks were seized’ so I cleaned them with some vinegar and washing up liquid’ and I have them all working now.
I had to enlarge the slot on the boom to take the lager aluminium slug who ever cut the first slot made a b##ls of it

pedroeibar1

copper12 wrote: »

Evening all
.......It turns out that I have several in various conditions.
Three storm sails’ two jibs, and a mainsail. All look new to me never used.

And long may it be so!!:)

copper12

Evening all
She has her name back
I wanted to paint her name on the bow.
So I bough the smallest set of pain brushes I could find’ jasus it was like using a yard brush.
I was all over the place. so I made my own’ and had much better success.
I made them out of squirrel and stoats tail. tied to cotton bud. they worked a treat.
While it would not up to a professional standard. it looks great to me’ if you stand back far enough’ with one eye shut.

copper12

Evening all
Just got the report from the engineer
It’s 13 pages long and goes into a lot of detail



CONCLUSION
In accordance with the request for a structural condition survey of the vessel “CEO NA MARA” for the purpose of estimating the condition of the vessel prior to insurance renewal, I herewith submit my conclusion based on the preceding report.
From what I was able to see during the course of the survey within the described limitations, I consider that the hull, deck, machinery and rigging are in a good structural condition.
It may be said to be in a satisfactory seagoing condition. It has been constructed to a good standard and has been well maintained.
The vessel is a normal insurance risk subject to the fact that she is well maintained.
This report consists of 13 pages and was completed on the 25th of May 2016.

copper12

Evening all
I finally got round to servicing the outboard
Changed the gear oil, and done some miner repairs, I got this engine second hand for next to nothing…
So replaced a perished fuel pipe, and traced an electrical fault’ dodgy connection, she has hardly been used although a few years old.
Changed the spark plug filed her with fuel think she would start not a chance I tried everything rechecked every connection checked the gap on the spark plug still no joy
Right time for a fag and a Coffey then start again
Then you have a eureka moment did I turn on the fuel valve turns out I hadn’t :mad:
If I had two brains I would be twice as stupid
Second pull she started and works fine.
Also fitted the anchor thirty meters of chain and fifty meters of rope.
Although I had misplaced some of the deck fittings for the anchor I found a use for some old golf clubs

copper12

I have the mast ready and fitted the tiller
Fitted the stanchions

copper12

one more