rebuildable discussion thread

ghogie91

Igo-L cotton set up

This was my first attempt at a cotton wick and turned out good, couldn't believe the juice retention of the cotton

Ionised

ghogie91 wrote: »

Igo-L cotton set up

This was my first attempt at a cotton wick and turned out good, couldn't believe the juice retention of the cotton

That's one juicy dripper!

(please file under 'Things not to say in public')

csi vegas

ghogie91 wrote: »

Igo-L cotton set up

This was my first attempt at a cotton wick and turned out good, couldn't believe the juice retention of the cotton

What type of cotton Ghogie? Looks right at home in there!

EGriff

Cotton really does hold a lot of drops, I'm even using a dripper while driving now since the cotton wick I have in there can hold about an on and off hours worth of juice.

Green Hornet

There's a bit of a trick to cotton though. Too much and it'll slow the heating of the coil down/flood it a bit even on a dripper.

M00lers

ghogie91 wrote: »

Igo-L cotton set up

This was my first attempt at a cotton wick and turned out good, couldn't believe the juice retention of the cotton

Looks tasty. Did you wrap the coil around the cotton or feed the cotton through.

dball

Can someone point me to a recent post explaining the length of wire = xxOhms - I cant find it and i'm going to have a bash at this today

was.deevey

Use a multimeter if you want to be accurate.

Hold the probes along the length of the wire at various distances before your wrap and you'll see the Ohms reading changing, just clip the wire where the probes hit the desired length or mark it with a sharpie of something if you prefer having a long cable to wrap with and clip it afterwards to the right point. Job done.

*you may need to leave a few mm extra depending how your terminals connect.

grindle

If you have an android phone get Vaper's Toolbox. Has all the wire info ready to calculate.
Otherwise, tell us what wire you have.

dball

grindle wrote: »

If you have an android phone get Vaper's Toolbox. Has all the wire info ready to calculate.
Otherwise, tell us what wire you have.

1 meter wick (2mm)
2 meter heating wire (Kanthal 0.2)

No multimeter - just a starter pack and a little bit of hope:eek::eek::eek:

ghogie91

Ionised wrote: »

That's one juicy dripper!


(please file under 'Things not to say in public')

Yeah very juicy haha still trying to make myself remember 'not silica, not silica' haha

csi vegas wrote: »

What type of cotton Ghogie? Looks right at home in there!

I just got organic cotton balls and boiled them in purified water and let dry, they kind of dry back into a cotton ball then

moolers2000 wrote: »

Looks tasty. Did you wrap the coil around the cotton or feed the cotton through.

Yep I wrapped the coil and stuck it on the posts, checked everything was firing ok then got some cotton, rolled it tighter at one end and fed it through, there was enough 'fluffy' cotton to go around the little well and the excess of the tighter rolled side, I tucked under the coil

grindle

dball wrote: »

1 meter wick (2mm)
2 meter heating wire (Kanthal 0.2)

No multimeter - just a starter pack and a little bit of hope:eek::eek::eek:

0.43ohm/cm if it's Kanthal D.

So 4cm length = ~1.6ohms, 5cm = ~2ohms, 6cm = 2.4ohms, etc etc.

Cut with an extra 5mm either side for legs to put into or wrap around the posts (probably need an extra cm or 2 if you're rebuilding clearos).

Always find out your resistance per cm and get the right length and you'll be grand. People talking about wraps is misleading because every wrap is subjective to the wick, tightness of the wrap, closeness of the coils, softness of the hands, sensitivity to touch, fingers running around the girth of your red-hot, spitting...coil.
A certain length of a certain wire cut a hundred times is the same resistance every time.

rickyjb

grindle wrote: »

0.43ohm/cm if it's Kanthal D.

So 4cm length = ~1.6ohms, 5cm = ~2ohms, 6cm = 2.4ohms, etc etc.

Cut with an extra 5mm either side for legs to put into or wrap around the posts (probably need an extra cm or 2 if you're rebuilding clearos).

Always find out your resistance per cm and get the right length and you'll be grand. People talking about wraps is misleading because every wrap is subjective to the wick, tightness of the wrap, closeness of the coils, softness of the hands, sensitivity to touch, fingers running around the girth of your red-hot, spitting...coil.
A certain length of a certain wire cut a hundred times is the same resistance every time.

I see your point but if you're using a micro/nano cool?

I've changed resistances substantially just using a tweezers and a blowtorch...

grindle

rickyjb wrote: »

I see your point but if you're using a micro/nano cool?

I've changed resistances substantially just using a tweezers and a blowtorch...

I haven't seen any change, resistance has stayed the same whether nano, micro or normal. How long are you torching for?

rickyjb

grindle wrote: »

I haven't seen any change, resistance has stayed the same whether nano, micro or normal. How long are you torching for?

I'm pretty sure I've gotten the resistance to increase by heating and getting all the coils to touch, this also stops the legs of the coil heating up. Not torching for very long, maybe 10-20 seconds, just long enough so that when I squeeze the coil after heating it stays together. Resistance increased from 1.3-1.4 to 1.6-1.7. You'd imagine the resistance would decrease when everything's touching... I dunno.

Also saw someone mention it in a video, can't remember who.

Mr. Chrome

I presumed(probably incorrectly) that with a micro/nano coil the length of wire didnt really have much to do with the resistance.
I thought because the coils were touching it made it like one big wrap, kinda like one huge wrap of ribbon kanthal?

dePeatrick

rickyjb wrote: »

I'm pretty sure I've gotten the resistance to increase by heating and getting all the coils to touch, this also stops the legs of the coil heating up. Not torching for very long, maybe 10-20 seconds, just long enough so that when I squeeze the coil after heating it stays together. Resistance increased from 1.3-1.4 to 1.6-1.7. You'd imagine the resistance would decrease when everything's touching... I dunno.

Also saw someone mention it in a video, can't remember who.

Could it be possible that heating the coils, and causing them to oxidise would mean that the diameter of the wire is reduced thereby increasing the resistance. Seems a lot though.....but still a theory!

grindle

I had a much longer post on a separate device, but basically - if a microcoil became one large mass of metal just through touching then microcoils would measure 0.3ohms or below (based on the shortest path of resistance theory) vs the 1.5-2ohm they usually occupy.
Electricity follows the path of easiest resistance like a river, not the first point it comes across like some people think (like a certain hifalutin redditor I read recently).
If microcoils started at almost-zero ohms VV devices wouldn't fire them. We know that's not true, so we know the people who think that are full of shìt. End of that redditor's discussion.

Depending on the material further annealing causes an increase in resistance.

That shortened my previous post by about ten lines, thank fûck.

Mr. Chrome

Yeah, I get what you're saying about the path of least resistance, its just that when I started rebuilding, the mantra was 'dont touch coils together, they will short out'. Now its 'touch away, tis grand'.
Reminds me of how people used to oxidise mesh, burn-quench, burn-quench, etc. etc.