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The "Today I did something to my car" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 594 ✭✭✭fanadman1


    sean1141 wrote: »
    Its easier damage paintwork with a rotory than with a DA but as long as you keep it moving you will be ok. Maybe buy an old wing from a scrap yard and practice on that

    thanks for that :) will it be more effective at geting scratchs out or is the da better for that ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    fanadman1 wrote: »
    thanks for that :) will it be more effective at geting scratchs out or is the da better for that ?


    Rotory will be better than a DA but as I said its easier to b urn the paint with the rotory


  • Registered Users Posts: 594 ✭✭✭fanadman1


    sean1141 wrote: »
    Rotory will be better than a DA but as I said its easier to b urn the paint with the rotory

    so just keep sweeping with it and dn't let it stop :L
    where would u get the hex pads and mersamena


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    fanadman1 wrote: »
    so just keep sweeping with it and dn't let it stop :L
    where would u get the hex pads and mersamena


    www.cleancar.ie

    Thats where I get all my stuff. Very helpfull lads and very quick delivery


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    I like the drums dgt! Smurf blue is it? :D

    you cant please everyone. :P


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  • Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭puppetmaster


    BDJW wrote: »
    Have you tried using a claybar on it?

    Im having the same hand print problems, their a hoor to get off, (most of them are on the passanger side) So coming from some sort of moisuriser i imaginge, Got a clar bar at the weekend, went wrong with it... No joy though :mad:


  • Registered Users Posts: 594 ✭✭✭fanadman1


    sean1141 wrote: »
    www.cleancar.ie

    Thats where I get all my stuff. Very helpfull lads and very quick delivery

    one last question thanks so much for this help btw !!
    are the will one backing plate do and just keep changeing pads ?
    and do they thread on like a nut ? just to be sure it will fit mine


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,513 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    fanadman1 wrote: »
    so just keep sweeping with it and dn't let it stop :L
    where would u get the hex pads and mersamena

    It is very easy to destroy your paint with a rotary.
    DA is much simpler to use and can give super results. Although it could take longer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,192 ✭✭✭HungryJoey


    Two machine polishes (with DA), alloys repainted and black trim repainted (ok so it took me 3 days) :rolleyes:

    IMG_1185.jpg
    IMG_1189.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    It shows up great with all the work you put into it. :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    HungryJoey wrote: »
    Two machine polishes (with DA), alloys repainted and black trim repainted (ok so it took me 3 days) :rolleyes:

    IMG_1185.jpg
    IMG_1189.jpg

    Love them coupes. What product did you use for polish?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,088 ✭✭✭sean1141


    fanadman1 wrote: »
    one last question thanks so much for this help btw !!
    are the will one backing plate do and just keep changeing pads ?
    and do they thread on like a nut ? just to be sure it will fit mine

    the one backing plate will do for each size of pad. i think they are astandard fitment for roatory

    http://www.cleancar.ie/65-m14softvelcrobackingplate.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    fandaman - I would strongly advise you to use a D/A instead of a rotary especially since you've only been using an Aldi/Lidl buffer up to now. Much more can go wrong with a rotary.

    Also, it's often been said that rotary polishers leave buffer trails and the only way to get rid of these is with a D/A so why use the 2 when the D/A on its own will give you the same results?


  • Registered Users Posts: 594 ✭✭✭fanadman1


    fandaman - I would strongly advise you to use a D/A instead of a rotary especially since you've only been using an Aldi/Lidl buffer up to now. Much more can go wrong with a rotary.

    Also, it's often been said that rotary polishers leave buffer trails and the only way to get rid of these is with a D/A so why use the 2 when the D/A on its own will give you the same results?

    i've been hand polishing up untill now
    i did a little late last night on a scrap car we have lyin around
    i find that its very hard to keep the rotary moveing if u keep it flat on the paint work :/ i might just invest in a da :/


  • Registered Users Posts: 23,694 ✭✭✭✭L-M


    HungryJoey wrote: »
    Two machine polishes (with DA), alloys repainted and black trim repainted (ok so it took me 3 days) :rolleyes:

    Dgt might have some blue left over if you want to do some colour matching on your calipers :pac:

    Looks sweet as! Fair play.


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,513 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    OSI wrote: »
    These just arrived.
    some new number plate LEDs that hopefully won't crap out or give an error message like the last lot.

    If you do get the error. Do what I did.
    Solder the festoon bulb to the led.
    Sorted ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,513 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    OSI wrote: »
    Haha, yeah I was tempted to with the last ones, but then one of them started flickering like a mad yoke. Took it out and there was a load of corrosion on the back of the LEDs despite being bone dry :confused::confused:the guys on the MK5 forums say the XTec one's work error free so we'll see.

    I am all ears ;)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    fanadman1 wrote: »
    the one with some yellow bristles and some gold ones ?
    its brilent to be fair i just needed the nail brush to get into the tighter spaces :P
    i accly lifted a little dog hair 2 from a day ours ran away and i had to put him in the car

    That's the one :) Worth every cent, I'd be picking those hairs out yet if I didn't have it!
    No excuse. :p

    Sure if it looks awful with alloys (which it probably will :pac:) I have black hammerite as a backup :) But the calipers stay blue :D

    Or maybe big red feck off drums.... Nah :P


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    dgt wrote: »
    Sure if it looks awful with alloys (which it probably will :pac:) I have black hammerite as a backup :) But the calipers stay blue :D

    Or maybe big red feck off drums.... Nah :P

    Hammerite, does that need primer and clear aswell or just spray on the hammerite?


  • Subscribers Posts: 6,408 ✭✭✭conzy


    Hammerite is painted on and you could paint it straight onto rust. Just a quick run of a wirebrush and one coat of Hammerite is all thats needed


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    conzymaher wrote: »
    Hammerite is painted on and you could paint it straight onto rust. Just a quick run of a wirebrush and one coat of Hammerite is all thats needed

    Thats cool, and if you used say halfords high temputer paint, I heard you need serton primer and clear? Is that correct?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,456 ✭✭✭✭Mr Benevolent


    Yesterday I did something to my car by buying a bike.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 12,985 ✭✭✭✭dgt


    Thats cool, and if you used say halfords high temputer paint, I heard you need serton primer and clear? Is that correct?

    My dad used red high temp paint from halfords on his engine block, painted it straight on. The blue caliper paint is halfords too, also straight on

    Image1760.jpg
    Image1859.jpg
    Image1860.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,186 ✭✭✭BUBBLE WRAP


    Cheers, its good to know these things. :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,192 ✭✭✭HungryJoey


    Love them coupes. What product did you use for polish?

    Cheers mate. First polish I used was 3M cutting compound to remove most imperfections and the second polish was a lighter finishing Menzerna compound.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 16,095 ✭✭✭✭omb0wyn5ehpij9


    Not so much doing something to it, but I both hammerite to paint the calipers and some more tyre shine


  • Registered Users Posts: 15,513 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    HungryJoey wrote: »
    Cheers mate. First polish I used was 3M cutting compound to remove most imperfections and the second polish was a lighter finishing Menzerna compound.


    Did you not seal it afterwards?


  • Registered Users Posts: 433 ✭✭puppetmaster


    So after cursing the handprints on the paint work everytime i saw them and thinking up even more inventive insults everytime i tried to get rid of them, I finally did today. I wont double post the pictures so the posts below :)

    http://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=78967112&postcount=11


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,192 ✭✭✭HungryJoey


    vectra wrote: »
    Did you not seal it afterwards?

    A Layer of Turtle wax and Dodo :)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,668 ✭✭✭eringobragh


    Was reading about a major cause of rust in MR2s...if water gets into the sponge (for sound deadening AFAIK) it causes moisture and serious rust..I've pulled the sponges out for good.

    I'm trying to avoid THIS (not mine) and replace the sills:

    IMAG0473.jpg

    Whats the verdict on the below....what should I treat it with?

    Cheers.



    Tbar leak here (Passenger side) - so expected some surface rust here.

    img1052w.jpg

    Took foam out passenger side:

    Uh-oh :(

    img1061jd.jpg

    Checked - not too bad seems surface mainly...a bit up the side where you cant see in the photo

    img1058bn.jpg

    img1060q.jpg

    Drivers side clean! Could get a proper look or photo but looked OK.

    img1063ae.jpg


This discussion has been closed.
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