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Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Thanks, I meant the former.

    Be careful not to rev it anything above 540 at the shaft!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,890 ✭✭✭kevthegaff


    She's range command then very clean and tight, she has over 6000 hrs not sure how genuine but dealer sold it to my neighbour at 3000 hrs 10 yrs ago, bought it as I know the guy minded it and he says she's dry and a straight tractor, let's see..


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,156 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,113 ✭✭✭visatorro


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

    Did the fuel pumps give trouble on them?


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,156 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    visatorro wrote: »
    Did the fuel pumps give trouble on them?

    We changed the fuel pump a few years ago. Might be worth investigating. Thanks


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

    Is there a suction filter/cracked pipe in tank?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,239 ✭✭✭kollegeknight


    Hi All,

    Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

    Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

    Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

    Thanks in advance


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    Hi All,

    Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

    Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

    Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

    Thanks in advance

    You could try draw them out with a welder....chances are..if sheared they arent too tight and just wore from being loose


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,705 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Are the bolts in a blind hole or a true hole. If they are in a true hole sticking out the other end, weld on a nut in the part sticking out. If blind hole, drill out with mag drill.

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,239 ✭✭✭kollegeknight


    Are the bolts in a blind hole or a true hole. If they are in a true hole sticking out the other end, weld on a nut in the part sticking out. If blind hole, drill out with mag drill.

    They’re in a blind hole.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    They’re in a blind hole.

    If they sheared fairly flush with the surface, you could try welding on a nut. Get a nut the same diameter as the bolt. Sit it over the broken bolt, and weld the inside of the nut to the top of the broken bolt.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,239 ✭✭✭kollegeknight


    hopeso wrote: »
    If they sheared fairly flush with the surface, you could try welding on a nut. Get a nut the same diameter as the bolt. Sit it over the broken bolt, and weld the inside of the nut to the top of the broken bolt.

    They are sheared about 12-15mm below the surface.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    They are sheared about 12-15mm below the surface.

    Grind a bolt to a point,get stainless rod and weld onto it


    Failing that,burn it out with welder....steel in cast should in theory anyway come out easy enough


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    _blaaz wrote: »
    Grind a bolt to a point,get stainless rod and weld onto it


    Failing that,burn it out with welder....steel in cast should in theory anyway come out easy enough

    Why the stainless rod, can I ask?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    hopeso wrote: »
    Why the stainless rod, can I ask?

    Stronger weld....afaik burns hotter so weld beds in deeper


    This is what i was taught a long time ago anyway...the exact science now couldnt tell yous


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,119 ✭✭✭✭Donald Trump


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    Bring a welder and a box of rods. Note, I didn’t manage to do this




    Bit of baling twine


    Be grand


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,169 ✭✭✭✭Base price


    Hi All,

    Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

    Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

    Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

    Thanks in advance
    Something like this


  • Registered Users Posts: 904 ✭✭✭The Nutty M


    Hi All,

    Bolts that hold up anchor bracket for stabilizers sheered in the axle of a Case 785. I don’t think stud extractors will work. Is there anything like a U bracket a can get to go around the square axle.

    Or does anyone have any other suggestions.

    Don’t think there is anyone to help before the harvest so it will be a DIY job I’d say.

    Thanks in advance


    There are big U bolts on both air and spring axles off trucks if they would suit. Could be a few mods to be done but they would be heavy duty.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,955 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    hopeso wrote: »
    Why the stainless rod, can I ask?
    _blaaz wrote: »
    Stronger weld....afaik burns hotter so weld beds in deeper


    This is what i was taught a long time ago anyway...the exact science now couldnt tell yous


    It is a stronger weld but not for those reasons, stainless is generally welded cooler than mild steel, the reason being is, if you weld stainless too hot you vaporize the chromium in the alloy, so you're left with a weld bead with weaker mechanical properties and also no chromium in it which means it will rust.
    The added chromium in a stainless rod is slightly more forgiving of a less clean weld bead so slightly less chance of carrying porosity through the weld bead.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Stainless rods also have a habit of the flux zinging off as the weld cools.
    It can easily fly a foot through the air.
    Just as you finish the weld and take away the mask to take a look at it.
    A bit of very hot flux in your eyeball will take your mind off the stabilizer .......


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,202 ✭✭✭Figerty


    _blaaz wrote: »
    Grind a bolt to a point,get stainless rod and weld onto it


    Failing that,burn it out with welder....steel in cast should in theory anyway come out easy enough

    Unlikely the body is cast iron. Most like a steel casting.

    I'd drill them out on centre and go up one size on the bolt.. M12 to M14.


  • Registered Users Posts: 527 ✭✭✭MeTheMan


    I know nothing about welding or bolt removal but I seen a lad us washers when the bolt was sunk in. Fill the gap with washers, weld up the center and weld a nut on top. Just throwing it out there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,705 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    New Holland 133 Combine. For a trip on the wild side. :cool:

    https://www.donedeal.ie/combineharvesters-for-sale/new-holland-133-combine/22201719

    'When I was a boy we were serfs, slave minded. Anyone who came along and lifted us out of that belittling, I looked on them as Gods.' - Dan Breen



  • Registered Users Posts: 11,169 ✭✭✭✭Base price


    New Holland 133 Combine. For a trip on the wild side. :cool:

    https://www.donedeal.ie/combineharvesters-for-sale/new-holland-133-combine/22201719
    You mean a trip down memory lane for us elder lemons :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,156 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Our tm125 keeps cutting out fuel filters have been changed. Seems something electrical any ideas

    Up in the housing that the diesel filter goes into was full of dirt. Also he replaced the probe thing that goes into the diesel thank for the fuel gauge. Hopefully that will do the job


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,156 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Up in the housing that the diesel filter goes into was full of dirt. Also he replaced the probe thing that goes into the diesel thank for the fuel gauge. Hopefully that will do the job

    Tractor cut out again this morning. Won't start now.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Tractor cut out again this morning. Won't start now.

    Is it getting fuel at injectors?


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,156 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    _blaaz wrote: »
    Is it getting fuel at injectors?

    Yup. Thinking it might be something electrical now


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Yup. Thinking it might be something electrical now

    Dont mean to undermine anyone....but if diesel is reaching the injector...its hardly electrical??



    Kinda hard to describe,but is it spitting out at pipe like is enough diesel getting there(i dont want to sound patroniseing),hopefully it something simple like.stopper solenoid acting up


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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,100 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Have you checked the battery and starter?


This discussion has been closed.
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