Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread

selectamatic

Sheepman2 wrote: »

Would a 100hp John Deere be able for a 10ft trailed mower conditioner? Would be on plenty of hills and steep ground.

6 cylinder or 4?

I'd be inclined to say no for both on hilly steep ground but a 6 would probably have the low down grunt to soldier on.

That said it'd be hard on the tractor.

A trailed 8ft would be a grand match.

funkey_monkey

I would have thought so.

I've seen quotes from 8hp/ft up to 10hp/ft so you'd be on the money with 100hp for a 10ft mower.

Of course, it depends on your forward speed and how you've set up the mower and its maintenance.

Are you baling or clamp?

davidk1394

On the flat yes. Up a hill no. It’d probably drive a 540 rpm mower but not a 1000 speed box

wrangler

davidk1394 wrote: »

On the flat yes. Up a hill no. It’d probably drive a 540 rpm mower but not a 1000 speed box

Similar machines with 1000 rpm gearboxes are easier driven than ones with 540 gearboxes,
That's why they're used

maidhc

selectamatic wrote: »

6 cylinder or 4?

I'd be inclined to say no for both on hilly steep ground but a 6 would probably have the low down grunt to soldier on.

That said it'd be hard on the tractor.

A trailed 8ft would be a grand match.

100hp will have no trouble with a 10ft Mower. I cut 100 acres once with a Kuhn KC300 on a Zetor 6340 (75hp) and it had no great issue. You wouldn't fly mind!

I mow my own stuff with either a TS115 (100hp) or 7610 (103hp) on a Deere 1360 and both barely register a drop in rpm even on an incline.

8ft mowers are the devil, may as well go the whole hog and buy a 5ft 6 PZ!!!

selectamatic

Plenty of hills and steep ground sounds a bit more challenging than an incline though...

8ft mowers are grand.

Never wrestle with pigs

Would a 6 pot 95 horse power tractor power a 10 ft non conditioner mower no bother?

Also, what brand of 20ft rake would you recommend for a farmers machine? Second hand handy money type. Cheers

selectamatic

Never wrestle with pigs wrote: »

Would a 6 pot 95 horse power tractor power a 10 ft non conditioner mower no bother?

Also, what brand of 20ft rake would you recommend for a farmers machine? Second hand handy money type. Cheers

Ya it should work it.

Couldn't comment on what sorta rake, at that age and price bracket you'd be buying on condition more so than brand.

Sheepman2

funkey_monkey wrote: »

I would have thought so.

I've seen quotes from 8hp/ft up to 10hp/ft so you'd be on the money with 100hp for a 10ft mower.

Of course, it depends on your forward speed and how you've set up the mower and its maintenance.

Are you baling or clamp?

Already running an 8ft, runs away with it. I know id have to drop a few gears but might not be too far away.

Baling but rake after the mower anyway.

Thanks everyone

The Nutty M

Sheepman2 wrote: »

Already running an 8ft, runs away with it. I know id have to drop a few gears but might not be too far away.

Baling but rake after the mower anyway.

Thanks everyone

I do mow for a lad beside me and the odd time it's a 6330 premium that's mowing. Two mowers, 4328 with swarther and a 4332 without a swarther. It mows away fine at around 10kmph,hit a hill and you are coming back in gears but it's able.

And on the gearboxes,the 4332 has a 1000rpm box and the 4328 has a 540rpm box. The 4332 is easier keep going,more inertial force keeping it running. The 4328 is harder kept drove with small horsepower,the tractor is revved lower.

With bigger horsepower (T6-140,6920s,6830s) you wouldn't really notice the difference. There's enough grunt to back up even though you'd be mowing up near 12kmph and above.

Buford T. Justice XIX

The Nutty M wrote: »

I do mow for a lad beside me and the odd time it's a 6330 premium that's mowing. Two mowers, 4328 with swarther and a 4332 without a swarther. It mows away fine at around 10kmph,hit a hill and you are coming back in gears but it's able.

And on the gearboxes,the 4332 has a 1000rpm box and the 4328 has a 540rpm box. The 4332 is easier keep going,more inertial force keeping it running. The 4328 is harder kept drove with small horsepower,the tractor is revved lower.

With bigger horsepower (T6-140,6920s,6830s) you wouldn't really notice the difference. There's enough grunt to back up even though you'd be mowing up near 12kmph and above.

How much extra horsepower would a conditioner need? I was offered a 9' mounted conditioner mower earlier this week but said I'd think about it for a few days.

The Nutty M

Buford T. Justice VI wrote: »

How much extra horsepower would a conditioner need? I was offered a 9' mounted conditioner mower earlier this week but said I'd think about it for a few days.

No more extra if it's all the hp you got. With less horsepower all you are doing is trading forward speed to maintain revs be it a conditioner mower or non conditioner. Keep the mower spinning at 540/1000 and it's doing the same job.

A 9ft conditioner mower is a fair decent lump to be hanging off the side of a tractor. But if the price is right then it's hard refuse. You'll have greater flexibility when to mow between the showers.

We have our own 8ft Malone non conditioner drove with an A95 valtra. It works away grand for our own silage.

Buford T. Justice XIX

The Nutty M wrote: »

No more extra if it's all the hp you got. With less horsepower all you are doing is trading forward speed to maintain revs be it a conditioner mower or non conditioner. Keep the mower spinning at 540/1000 and it's doing the same job.

A 9ft conditioner mower is a fair decent lump to be hanging off the side of a tractor. But if the price is right then it's hard refuse. You'll have greater flexibility when to mow between the showers.

We have our own 8ft Malone non conditioner drove with an A95 valtra. It works away grand for our own silage.

Thanks for that, running a Claas disco 2650 with a JD5100m and the option of cutting for bales with a conditioner would be an attraction. Might be a bridge too far this year, though.

9935452

wrangler wrote: »

davidk1394 wrote: »

On the flat yes. Up a hill no. It’d probably drive a 540 rpm mower but not a 1000 speed box

Similar machines with 1000 rpm gearboxes are easier driven than ones with 540 gearboxes,
That's why they're used

Totally agree. We have a 10 ft kuhn in the yard with a gyrobox.
Way easier driven in the 1000 box . It drops revs quicker in the 540 box.
We were running an old kuhn and a jd 1365 alongside each other at one stage on identical tractors . Kuhn was 1000. Jd was 540. Kuhn always walked away from the 1365.

wrangler

9935452 wrote: »

Totally agree. We have a 10 ft kuhn in the yard with a gyrobox.
Way easier driven in the 1000 box . It drops revs quicker in the 540 box.
We were running an old kuhn and a jd 1365 alongside each other at one stage on identical tractors . Kuhn was 1000. Jd was 540. Kuhn always walked away from the 1365.

It stands to reason, tractor has to be geared down to 540 and the mower then has to be geared up to whatever, much more efficient to only gear down to 1000.
I'd imagine it needs less torque at the hgher speed, less wear and tear

Waffletraktor

Gawddawggonnit wrote: »

Since you’ve been a loyal Class customer I’d expect them to equal or even better the quote from NH. There must be some reward for being a good client. Is the NH backup as good as Claas?

I presume it’s the 10.90?
We’d a 9230 and 30’cut in wheat last year. Local contractor was at it for a neighbor in the same field with a 10.90 and a 40’ cut. He was doing 0.7km faster and with an extra 10’. Very impressive indeed.
I would wonder how they would cope in a wet harvest in lodged sprouted wheat?

Bit of back story but the jist is insurance companies hicking cover for big lexions as claas had an issue they wouldnt fix. Costing them a good few sales and bad pr with new models due next year. They couldnt even get back into farms at a reduced rate that did burn last season due to the threatened iincrease in premia. I suspect they'll have to have a fancy deal for insurance worked in for next year.

whelan2

Anyone know how to check the gear box on a cross agitator for oil?

hopeso

whelan2 wrote: »

Anyone know how to check the gear box on a cross agitator for oil?

Assuming it's similar to other agitators, the simplest way is to do it with the agitator in the tank. The gearbox is level in that position. There should be a bung half way down the back of the gearbox. That's the level, when oil starts to flow there. There should be another bung on top, for filling the oil..

whelan2

hopeso wrote: »

Assuming it's similar to other agitators, the simplest way is to do it with the agitator in the tank. The gearbox is level in that position. There should be a bung half way down the back of the gearbox. That's the level, when oil starts to flow there. There should be another bung on top, for filling the oil..

No bung . Just a tiny air breather.

hopeso

whelan2 wrote: »

No bung . Just a tiny air breather.

No bung anywhere?

whelan2

hopeso wrote: »

No bung anywhere?

Can't see one. There's 4 nuts holding the gear box onto the frame. Unless the bung is in one of these. Will look again tomorrow

_blaaz

whelan2 wrote: »

No bung . Just a tiny air breather.

Sometimes theres a dipstick.on breather


Idk about cross gearboxs,but some comer ones are that way anyway

hopeso

whelan2 wrote: »

Can't see one. There's 4 nuts holding the gear box onto the frame. Unless the bung is in one of these. Will look again tomorrow

No, the bung won't be one of them bolts. It should be clearly visible on the back of the gearbox, similar to the gearbox on a topper. With another one on top, as I said. It sounds like your gearbox might be a 'sealed for life' job, if such a gearbox exists. I wonder how many of them are ever checked anyway......

hopeso

_blaaz wrote: »

Sometimes theres a dipstick.on breather


Idk about cross gearboxs,but some comer ones are that way anyway

It could be..... It's very likely that it's a Comer gearbox anyway...

visatorro

whelan2 wrote: »

Anyone know how to check the gear box on a cross agitator for oil?

Ment to be unblockable! How do you find it?

9935452

visatorro wrote: »

whelan2 wrote: »

Anyone know how to check the gear box on a cross agitator for oil?

Ment to be unblockable! How do you find it?

Thats a myth that seems to be doing the rounds. i believe cross themselves say that
We had one for a good few years. .
Got replaced by an abbey which is a better machine. .
The frames on the crosses are known for cracking /breaking too

whelan2

visatorro wrote: »

Ment to be unblockable! How do you find it?

Have ours about 18 years. Got bearings done in it a few years ago. Yes it does block . It does what we want it to do.

Never wrestle with pigs

Is a conditioner mower really that much of an advantage over non conditioner? If I knock into 10ft sward for 24 hrs and gather into 20ft before baleing, am I really getting much more wilt with the conditioner mower?

roosterman71

You get the stem broken as it goes through the conditioner which aids wilting. But then it's often left in rows which doesn't help. I cut with a non conditioner and ted it out nearly right after. Going through the tedder will break the stem a bit too and spreads the crop out a bit as well. Find it works great (and gives the father something to do so he feels involved in the whole show which is an added plus)

Reggie.

Never wrestle with pigs wrote: »

Is a conditioner mower really that much of an advantage over non conditioner? If I knock into 10ft sward for 24 hrs and gather into 20ft before baleing, am I really getting much more wilt with the conditioner mower?

Conditioner is needed unless your gonna Ted out straight away from a straight mower. The grass from a straight mower has a habit of welding itself to the ground and any moisture underneath it never dries up