Chain Saw Chat

Running too lean? Now semi seized?
Can you take out the plug and try and get a look into the cylinder for scratches/scores?

Jimlh86 wrote: »

Did I make a balls of it trying to start it?

No, whatever was done, was done.
Best bring it to a repair place and see what they diagnose.
A new piston and barrel wouldn't be the end of the world.
Carb. overhaul kit while you're at it.

any opinions on this chainsaw
http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
seriously cheaper than the rest

ford2600 wrote: »

Went mad and bought a 560xp with 15" bar and an 18" for occasional heavier stuff.

Nice
What sort money

GY A1 wrote: »

ALDI AXE
https://www.aldi.ie/premium-axe/p/093477044007300
anyone gooten this aldi axe last time round,
whats it like,
its 2kg
compared to lidl had one couple weeks ago but was only 1.5 kg
that was very light

If ya chop a tidy amount of stuff, getta fiskars!
She's tasty enough money, but well worth it!

drunkmonkey wrote: »

I'm after a handy size chansaw for home, Think I've decided on a Stihl ms181 CBE, it's my first chainsaw so just want to make sure I'm buying the right one for my needs.
I won't be cutting anything huge, maybe 5/6 inch thick at most. I'll also be using it on a ladder cutting into the hedge. So I'm thinking the stihl with the 12 or 14 inch blade, should I stick with the 12 inch blade or go bigger to give me longer reach into hedge or is that dangerous? (Nearly bought a 20 yesterday being clueless)

Also seems to be massive price differences they seem to be about €400 here and about £240 in U.K., it's at least €100 difference. Would an Irish dealer price match or come close?

Safety gear, is the small saw a lot safer, do I need anything on my arms, chest or legs if I'm going to be on a ladder or is the little saw easily managable. I won't be cutting down, it'll be more cutting sideways if that makes any odds.

Hi drunkmonkey,

Well I do not need to add to the previous posters safety advice, get some training if i were you, it is of course possible to use a saw safely horizontally at height, but you do need to know how. Personal protective equipment is essential i'd say, at the least a pair of chainsaw trousers, and gloves, and ear protection and a face shield or safety glasses at a minimum, if you plan on felling any trees in the future a helmet is essential for this (getting a bang on the head from a dislodged branch as the tree goes over quickly gets old don't ask me how i know!)

The small saw is just as dangerous as a big pro model, that chain cuts through flesh beautifully savagely. Do not be intimidated though, safety is about mindfulness and understanding and knowledge, acquire the knowledge, and practice the mindfulness, do no hurry. PPE (personal protective equipment) does not make you safer, although it may help to prevent more serious injury when things go wrong, you've only got one neck (a common injury from kickback when working above waist height) and you would definately miss a leg should you hit one, so PPE is ESSENTIAL in my humble opinion.

As for bar length, you will find that a shorter bar will perform better on any chainsaw for cutting, it is less drag on the motor, and chains are cheaper and quicker to sharpen. Again on sharpening I'd get some training and learn to do it yourself, a blunt saw is dangerous, and taking your saw somewhere to get it sharpened is inconvenient and quickly gets expensive. Sharpening a chain is not difficult, just a matter of pushing the file in a straight line, (I'd recommend using a file guide for this), and a sharp saw saves petrol and is a pleasure to use. I generally inspect the chain every fill of petrol, and touch it up with a stroke or two of the file if necessary, only takes a minute or two, and keeping a chain razor sharp prolongs its life.

I would certainly recommend paying the higher price from a local dealer, you will get back any difference quickly in good service from the dealer, and when you need parts or repair he will naturally be much more helpful to customers who buy saws from him. If we all buy the cheapest online, very quickly we will have no local dealers to go to when we need our saws repaired in a hurry.

The stihl 181 is a good little saw a sensible choice for the use you describe, do remember though if the saw is only going to get occasional use, to drain petrol and oil before storage, and clean the air filter regularly. The manual that comes with these saws is very good and is WELL WORTH STUDYING CAREFULLY, there is lots of advice on how to use the saw safely for a number of different tasks.

I would NOT recommend a beginner work off of a ladder (some pro's use a light ladder in forestry for pruning but it is generally frowned upon and there are better ways), a simple platform that is STABLE would be a much safer option for your hedge, you'd want to be working the saw at waist level or lower, so bear that in mind when erecting your platform. 4 45 gallon drums and some scaffolding planks would do, but a hire shop could perhaps cheaply hire you something much better.

best of luck with your new saw

tim

Fuisneóg Abú

Looking for a file to sharpen the father in laws chainsaw. Its a husqvarna with about a 24 inch bar. Anyone know what size file I need or can you recommend a good file kit? I'm not fully sure of chain size , i.e 3/16' 5/32 etc but hoping they are standard. Thanks

Any advice for red watery eyes think it was caused cutting the big trees in the hedge Tuesday evening with a pole chainsaw sometimes at eye height, was wearing a full face helmet but not any glasses underneath. Fine for flying bits but fine dust must have got in.
Didn't notice anything at the time but woke up Wednesday and eyes were red and blurry. Got drops from the chemist then but eyes are still as bad now and sticking together.

I'm not sure it was the sawing but only thing I can think of, had done loads more cutting over the last few weeks with no effect.

Yea the engine was pretty close to my head most of the time the saw was a good bit away, it might be it.