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Chain Saw Chat
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Perfect for holding a door open or for those other occasions when you don’t need a working chainsaw.
Junk saw. Try to find a used 340, 345 or 350 if money is tight.
Never had an issue with my 236? Cuts fine, won’t take down a 24” oak easily but for someone doing small firewood it’s fine. I paid €120 ex vat from the UK
I’d rather a cheap branded new saw over most 2nd hand ones and over any of the Chinese zenoah copies.
I also have a 550xp and 365x-torq but a cheap little saw like the 236 always has a place
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Never had an issue with my 236? Cuts fine, won’t take down a 24” oak easily but for someone doing small firewood it’s fine. I paid €120 ex vat from the UK
I’d rather a cheap branded new saw over most 2nd hand ones and over any of the Chinese zenoah copies.
I also have a 550xp and 365x-torq but a cheap little saw like the 236 always has a place
You have a 550 and 365, so you know the 236 doesn’t deserve a Husqvarna decal. It’s cheap and nasty electrolux junk, no better than any €100 chinese saw.
As something to lend to someone you don’t like, it’s perfect. Why would anyone with a 550xp want to use a 236?
As Dougal would say, “That’s mad, Ted’.0 -
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You have a 550 and 365, so you know the 236 doesn’t deserve a Husqvarna decal. It’s cheap and nasty electrolux junk, no better than any €100 chinese saw.
As something to lend to someone you don’t like, it’s perfect. Why would anyone with a 550xp want to use a 236?
As Dougal would say, “That’s mad, Ted’.
I use it as a ‘rescue’ saw only. If I ever do get the 550 pinched it will get me out of a hole, I don’t bring the 365 too many places with me as it’s not the most nimble for tight spots
Also if I ever suspect there’s barbed wire grown into a tree I use the 236... see, every saw has its use 0 -
I use it as a ‘rescue’ saw only. If I ever do get the 550 pinched it will get me out of a hole, I don’t bring the 365 too many places with me as it’s not the most nimble for tight spots
Also if I ever suspect there’s barbed wire grown into a tree I use the 236... see, every saw has its use
You make some good pointswayoutwest wrote: »Cheers JayZeus. I had a use for it the other day - clearing up a garden that was littered with fallen Ash limbs.Had the 16" bar +.325 chain that it came with- was smiling at the aggressive lively power it had + lighter than the 365 (by a kilo or two)) - total pleasure to use and not a problem with starting it (hot or cold). It stands me at €150 ,which is €100 less than a new 236, that I was going to buy.
I think you are right about keeping 16"" bar and .325 - it felt like a nice light, fast setup + good reach without being unwieldy. The bar is in great condition , but the chain is halfway - what make/type of chain would you recommend i get for limbing/small firewood ?
---wayoutwest (not Tim !)
Sorry. Always getting you two mixed up.
Oregon 20BPX (1.3mm/.050") or 21BPX (1.5mm/.058") is what I've used for years now on the smaller husky saws (<65-70cc). Usually use 15, 16 and 18" bars depending on what saw and what I'm at. I know there's probably 'better' choices but I've always found it easy to get, fairly durable and easy to sharpen with a few licks and back to work again.
I have a few 13" 1.3mm GB sprocket nose bars bought for a good price for small firewood work and my husky dealer suggested I try the X-Cut SP33G (I had to look that up!) and I've been very pleased with it. Only in 1.3mm size at the moment but plenty of length options. Made in Sweden at a newly built Husqvarna facility, designed and developed in house. It's good to see that kind of thing being done these days but the thing that struck me about it as a chain is that it's very well finished and seems to hold an edge about as well as Stihl RSC which is what I'd put on the bigger saws. Most of what I'm cutting with it is 6-10" diameter birch crotches and bends and some pine and spruce tops that have been dragged in the dirt on their way out, now needing to be cut to an easy to handle size to feed into a Hakki Pilke saw/splitter. Plenty of sand and grit and the bars and chains are holding up well. That keep me happy to pass on the recommendation if you can get that chain locally yourself.
Anyway, small bar and .325's the right stuff. I should have said, that saw with a small sprocket nose bar and good oiling will easily spin a chain on an 8 tooth drive sprocket, if you wanted it and you're up to working at pace safely.0 -
You make some good points
Sorry. Always getting you two mixed up.
Oregon 20BPX (1.3mm/.050") or 21BPX (1.5mm/.058") is what I've used for years now on the smaller husky saws (<65-70cc). Usually use 15, 16 and 18" bars depending on what saw and what I'm at. I know there's probably 'better' choices but I've always found it easy to get, fairly durable and easy to sharpen with a few licks and back to work again.
I have a few 13" 1.3mm GB sprocket nose bars bought for a good price for small firewood work and my husky dealer suggested I try the X-Cut SP33G (I had to look that up!) and I've been very pleased with it. Only in 1.3mm size at the moment but plenty of length options. Made in Sweden at a newly built Husqvarna facility, designed and developed in house. It's good to see that kind of thing being done these days but the thing that struck me about it as a chain is that it's very well finished and seems to hold an edge about as well as Stihl RSC which is what I'd put on the bigger saws. Most of what I'm cutting with it is 6-10" diameter birch crotches and bends and some pine and spruce tops that have been dragged in the dirt on their way out, now needing to be cut to an easy to handle size to feed into a Hakki Pilke saw/splitter. Plenty of sand and grit and the bars and chains are holding up well. That keep me happy to pass on the recommendation if you can get that chain locally yourself.
Anyway, small bar and .325's the right stuff. I should have said, that saw with a small sprocket nose bar and good oiling will easily spin a chain on an 8 tooth drive sprocket, if you wanted it and you're up to working at pace safely.
Great info JayZeus -thanks........ although I didn't understand the last bit about small sprocket nose bar/ 8 tooth drive.0 -
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I'm reminded of a forestry event I was at a good few years ago where the organisers had a draw for a pair of chainsaw trousers.I’m 6’8” and off the shelf stuff never fits...
The roundiest man I've ever seen won!
He appeared to be about 5 foot tall and about the same around the midriff.
The guy from the PPE importer/agency was last seen frantically searching through their catalogue to see if they did chainsaw trousers in 60" waist/24" inseam
On a more serious note, for PPE to be effective, it must be used.
PPE that is uncomfortable, awkward, poorly-fitting, or a hindrance is much more likely to be unused or discarded.
Trousers that strangle the nether regions when you crouch down or bend over, or a helmet that gives you a headache or that constantly falls off or that you can't see out of properly, or boots that pinch your heel or that make a painful crease across your toes when you walk, are all a waste of time and money no matter how expensive or well regarded the brand name.
My brother used to be trying to buy chainsaw boots online, and eventually had to give in and go to a proper bricks-n-mortar shop where he could try them on and do a walkabout test.
He used to be half crippled after an hour or two, and now doesn't know himself with properly fitting boots.
TLDR: Get PPE that fits and is comfortable for YOU.0 -
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Tim from tang has put up a excellent post but if you are having difficulty edging the chain I'd suggest you get a new one and try it if the same issues are there then it's a bar issue if not your chain is incorrectly sharpened.
Are you free filing? or are you using a machine?
If you are free hand get one of these..........................
https://www.pferd.com/int-en/products/files/sharpening-files/chain-saw-sharpeners-chain-sharp/chain-sharp-cs-x-chain-saw-sharpeners/pos-packaging/pos-packaging/cs-x-3-2/0 -
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