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Chain Saw Chat

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1…34689…23

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    #152
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    kay 9 wrote: »
    Well wear, that's as near to new as I've seen.

    A closer look shows lots of chips on the engine case, the top cover is from a different saw, the oil filler cap is broken, the thread's stripped on the front cover bolt hole and the chain brake handle base has a crack. The heated handle switch is cracked, chain guides and top and bottom chain catchers are damaged and the stink of burnt two stroke gave instance headache.

    Elbow grease and a drop of gun oil on a rag to wipe the plastics will work wonders. A helicoil and a few bits and bobs from ebay will see the little things right. OE bhainbrake handle already ordered from the local dealer and the other things can be done here and there. Cylinder is the original one and cold it's showing 155psi so I'm happy out with the machine. It oils where it should and doesn't leak where it shouldn't.

    There's a 162SE for less than 100 quid for sale now. Needs a full chainbrake. Maybe I should turn this yoke off and watch some telly before I get picture no sound for the next fortnight.


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    #153
    Flood
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 560 ✭✭✭Flood


    Im buying a saw and cant make up my mind to get a stihl 362 or 441. If i get the 362 will I ever be saying why didn't I get the 441 as I would have more power or will it be after getting the 441 I will be saying why didn't I get the 362 as a lighter less powerful saw would have done.
    I plan on putting a 18-20 inch bar on either saw. Realistically I will probably be knocking trees bigger than that but I will be able to use cutting techniques to achieve it. I wont be buying into the ax-men image of a big bar.


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    #154
    jonon9
    Registered Users Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    Flood wrote: »
    Im buying a saw and cant make up my mind to get a stihl 362 or 441. If i get the 362 will I ever be saying why didn't I get the 441 as I would have more power or will it be after getting the 441 I will be saying why didn't I get the 362 as a lighter less powerful saw would have done.
    I plan on putting a 18-20 inch bar on either saw. Realistically I will probably be knocking trees bigger than that but I will be able to use cutting techniques to achieve it. I wont be buying into the ax-men image of a big bar.

    Iv been running a 362 for over half a year now and so far it's been great, I'm running an 18' on it. Realisticly I'd say a 20 would be max without losing power if you want to go 20'+I' id go 441. I'm only saying that is iv never ran anything bigger than 20' on the 362 yet.

    What size trees would you be cutting really?


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    #155
    Flood
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 560 ✭✭✭Flood


    jonon9 wrote: »

    What size trees would you be cutting really?

    Most of them are up to 20 inches, and sure a 20 inch bar will only give me an 18 inch cut after. A few of them are over 2 feet but ill keep the bar at 20. Do you use a smaller saw also or is it your main one?


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    #156
    jonon9
    Registered Users Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    Flood wrote: »
    Most of them are up to 20 inches, and sure a 20 inch bar will only give me an 18 inch cut after. A few of them are over 2 feet but ill keep the bar at 20. Do you use a smaller saw also or is it your main one?

    Yes iv a smaller saw for lighter stuff. If you can get the 441 for good money having the extra power will be handy you you ever decided to do any milling.


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    #157
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    I spent 8 hours today cutting in a stand of silver birch with the 543 and 560 husky saws. The 543XP has really come to life and I will keep it and recommend it as a great replacement for the venerable 242XP.

    The 560XP/G is something else altogether. I have a 16" Carlton Premium Mini sprocket nose bar and Oregon BPX on it and that saw is a marvel for the job. The Internet is full of secondhand waffle and hearsay with all kinds of nonsense but I can tell you first hand it's a saw you shouldn't overlook.

    I ran it hard from day one on Aspen Full Range. Like the manual and dealer said to do, I buried it straight into an 18" birch trunk I left in the yard last spring and kept doing that for a few minutes. It started to stall a couple of times at the start and after about 3 minutes I couldn't make it do that again. Then off to the woods for the day and it never missed a beat.

    Forget brands and everything else. Try one, or a 550. Superb machines.


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    #158
    sthilmick
    Registered Users Posts: 163 ✭✭sthilmick


    blue5000 wrote: »
    A tip for a new file is to rub it in a lump of brass before you sharpen anything with it. This helps the teeth to last longer, also a flat file can be cleaned with a piece of hardwood, beech is good.

    I have a bit of teakwood it good for round and flat files


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    #159
    sthilmick
    Registered Users Posts: 163 ✭✭sthilmick


    sthilmick wrote: »
    I have a bit of teakwood it good for round and flat files

    Must try the brass tip too


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    #160
    Flood
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 560 ✭✭✭Flood


    Do anyone have one of these saw horses?

    http://www.treeandgrassspares.com/chainsaw-metal-saw-horse-sawhorse-for-sawing-logs/


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    #161
    Reindeer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    I use a Norwegian/scandinavian sawhorse I constructed not long ago for high out put on smaller limbs and rounds smaller than 14" or so:

    http://m8.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158973628.d7edNOfV.jpg

    http://m3.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158973933.X7BNqonk.jpg

    And this is what the shed is starting to look like as I also add split wood to the mess(various hardwoods near left, then neatly stacked ash and beech, ash and beech rounds, and then split oak:

    http://m0.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/160042790.agUMnYqY.jpg

    And I have a pile like this still to process:

    http://m9.i.pbase.com/g9/22/22/2/158340399.GSihbSgE.jpg


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    #162
    sthilmick
    Registered Users Posts: 163 ✭✭sthilmick


    Hi you should check out my sawhorse on youtube type in
    yella log holder
    its a homemade job works a treat


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    #163
    sthilmick
    Registered Users Posts: 163 ✭✭sthilmick


    pilgrim pat wrote: »
    dose wrangler star on youtube have his bar in upside down ?
    your supposed to turn your bar reguarly and dress it too (file the burr on the bar caused by the friction of the chain on the bar )


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    #164
    martink281
    Registered Users Posts: 13 ✭martink281


    Hi all.
    My 044 packed up, so I took it apart to find the problem. The small bearing on the top of the crankshaft broke and sent shards of metal up along the piston. In short i need a new piston new crankshaft and all the other bits and pieces to put it back together. My local stihl dealer wanted the best part of the price of a new saw for the parts alone so stihl parts are not an option. Any ideas for quality aftermarket parts. Do you know of a small engine repair shop that will swap out the crankshaft for a reasonable price? One repair shop wanted €110 just to do that much.
    Any ideas or advice appreciated.
    Thanks.


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    #165
    Reindeer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    You may be better off risking a parts saw to scavenge.


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    #166
    gyppo
    Registered Users Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭gyppo


    Anyone have a scrap Partner F55 (also badged as Farmer ) saw they want a few quid for.
    Looking for the clutch cover for one of these...

    Thanks in Advance


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    #167
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    gyppo wrote: »
    Anyone have a scrap Partner F55 (also badged as Farmer ) saw they want a few quid for.
    Looking for the clutch cover for one of these...

    Thanks in Advance

    Send this guy a message and see if he will send it to Ireland via USPS for you:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Partner-f55-f65-clutch-cover-/221621357242

    Most will if you ask nicely.


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    #168
    Jimlh86
    Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    I have a stihl MS291 bought from new, well minded. Today while cutting I noticed the chain wanted to move even when the brake was on. I released the brake and the chain started to turn on it's own without me pressing the trottle.

    I knocked it off and tried to start it up again to show the father the problem and it won't start and the pull cord is really hard pulled.

    Any suggestions?


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    #169
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Running too lean? Now semi seized?
    Can you take out the plug and try and get a look into the cylinder for scratches/scores?


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    #170
    Jimlh86
    Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    Running too lean? Now semi seized?
    Can you take out the plug and try and get a look into the cylinder for scratches/scores?

    Yeah I'm not sure if it's running too lean, but I'd say you're spot on about it being semi seized! Trying to look into the cylinder is beyond my know how I'm afraid! Did I make a balls of it trying to start it?


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    #171
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Jimlh86 wrote: »
    Did I make a balls of it trying to start it?

    No, whatever was done, was done.
    Best bring it to a repair place and see what they diagnose.
    A new piston and barrel wouldn't be the end of the world.
    Carb. overhaul kit while you're at it.


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    #172
    Jimlh86
    Users Awaiting Email Confirmation Posts: 260 ✭✭Jimlh86


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    No, whatever was done, was done.
    Best bring it to a repair place and see what they diagnose.
    A new piston and barrel wouldn't be the end of the world.
    Carb. overhaul not while you're at it.

    Fair play nek thanks for the reply!


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    #173
    ganmo
    Registered Users Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    any opinions on this chainsaw
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
    seriously cheaper than the rest


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    #174
    Cowabunga
    Registered Users Posts: 40 ✭Cowabunga


    ganmo wrote: »
    any opinions on this chainsaw
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
    seriously cheaper than the rest

    Maybe for tipping around a few bits out the back or something. But heavy use and I can imagine it'll give. Often the engine will still be going with the cheap ones it's often silly stuff like plastic screws that thread arse ways, throttle levers popping and all the usual to expect with a cheap saw. Not really a bargain if you end up buying it a few times. My opinion.


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    #175
    Cowabunga
    Registered Users Posts: 40 ✭Cowabunga


    ganmo wrote: »
    any opinions on this chainsaw
    http://www.ie.screwfix.com/titan-ttl632chn-40cm-1-9hp-35cc-petrol-chainsaw.html
    seriously cheaper than the rest

    Maybe for tipping around a few bits out the back or something. But heavy use and I can imagine it'll give. Often the engine will still be going with the cheap ones it's often silly stuff like plastic screws that thread arse ways, throttle levers popping and all the usual to expect with a cheap saw. Not really a bargain if you end up buying it a few times. My opinion.


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    #176
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users Posts: 11,191 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Came across a Husky 65 dumped in a guys shed/scrap pile. It turns over and has some compression. Been there a few years, as briers have grown and died through the handle.
    Anyone here have one of these?
    Am very tempted to see will he part with it. I suppose it was the fore runner of the 61?


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    #177
    txpjl
    Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭txpjl


    Hello,

    Anyone know what the button on the right of the rear of this saw does?

    Thanks
    T


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    #178
    invicta
    Registered Users Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    txpjl wrote: »
    Hello,

    Anyone know what the button on the right of the rear of this saw does?

    Thanks
    T

    A lot of older saws,(from my youth) had a manual chain oiler, which was pumped from this button directly on to the chain.
    More than likely,that's what it is!


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    #179
    tancoman
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭tancoman


    Husky 435. The husky 435 has become harder to start. It actually backfires on occasions. It hasn't much done, nothing very heavy and bought at the ploughing in 2014.Any ideas from the experts.


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    #180
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    tancoman wrote: »
    Husky 435. The husky 435 has become harder to start. It actually backfires on occasions. It hasn't much done, nothing very heavy and bought at the ploughing in 2014.Any ideas from the experts.

    Air leak is the prime suspect. That'll cause hard starting and backfiring.

    Don't try using it until you figure out where the problem is or you'll be multiplying the cost to fix it by many times.

    Hard to know not being able to get hands on, but start by checking the intake boot (PART # 504201201) as the most likely culprits. For 20 quid it's money well spent to replace the boot anyway I think.

    Ask your dealer and they'll set you right.


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    #181
    tancoman
    Registered Users Posts: 47 ✭tancoman


    Thanks, will bring it to a husky dealer tomorrow.


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