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Chain Saw Chat

1235714

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 205 ✭✭Heavy handed


    Well guys my stihl ms660 bit the bullet this evening. Took it out for the first time in 6 months to cut some freshly felled pine and half a tank of petrol in the saw just cut out a basically cooked itself. Took off the muffler to find the piston scored. I suspect it was the mix been too lean. Now I need to get it back up and running. I'd imagine oem stihl parts will be expensive compared to aftermarket. Would this be a good excuse to run a big bore kit on it or just fix it back to oem spec. Anyone recommend someone good to tackle the job or should I just take it into the local dealer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    Well guys my stihl ms660 bit the bullet this evening. Took it out for the first time in 6 months to cut some freshly felled pine and half a tank of petrol in the saw just cut out a basically cooked itself. Took off the muffler to find the piston scored. I suspect it was the mix been too lean. Now I need to get it back up and running. I'd imagine oem stihl parts will be expensive compared to aftermarket. Would this be a good excuse to run a big bore kit on it or just fix it back to oem spec. Anyone recommend someone good to tackle the job or should I just take it into the local dealer.

    Can't help with rebuild but did you use fresh petrol?

    Modern petrol left sitting for 6 months is not fit for use. 6 weeks is my time limit especially with a 2 stroke mix.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 205 ✭✭Heavy handed


    ford2600 wrote: »
    Can't help with rebuild but did you use fresh petrol?

    Modern petrol left sitting for 6 months is not fit for use. 6 weeks is my time limit especially with a 2 stroke mix.

    It was new petrol. I dropped the saw off yesterday to have it rebuilt. He took it apart in from of me and a seal on the sprocket side had failed and the saw sucked in more air than needed. There's a big bore kit ordered for it now, bring it up to 99cc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 57 ✭✭timmiekp


    in the market for a new saw currently have an oleo mac grand yoke no problems ahd a stihl before broke our heart trying to start it.it will be used for cutting dwn blackthorn sally etc have no real budget just want something reliable


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 290 ✭✭Mississippi.


    ford2600 wrote: »
    Can't help with rebuild but did you use fresh petrol?

    Modern petrol left sitting for 6 months is not fit for use. 6 weeks is my time limit especially with a 2 stroke mix.

    If you are only an occasional user would it be best to keep her going to empty the tank before putting her away then?

    I plink therefore I am



  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    If you are only an occasional user would it be best to keep her going to empty the tank before putting her away then?

    Yep.

    Unless I'm using saw a couple of days in a row I always but back saw dry.

    A good clean gerry can, fresh petrol and good oil and decent quality saws shouldn't give any engine trouble for occasional users.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 461 ✭✭Czhornet


    I have a 62cc chainsaw and a good sharp chain (small pet hate of mine is a dull chain) the saw cuts straight but the last few days when cutting the bar goes down into the timber about twice the depth of the bar and sits there, not cutting anything, almost like its getting squeezed even though its not. The bar looks ok for wear (no lips and no burrs on the sides) have turned the bar upside down and still the problem exists, would the chain be worn or it there something else I'm missing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,380 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    Have you filed back the rakers on the chain ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    Bought a pair old proper oregon gloves, and trousers, and also the proper helmet with muffs and face guard. Didn't buy boots..... Yet.

    I wouldnt do too much sawing, but one accident is one too many.
    What boots does everyone else wear?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,380 ✭✭✭O.A.P


    When its wet, wellingtons with steel toe caps and the oilskins pulled over them.
    When dry steel toe caped doc martins.
    I'm happy enough that my toes are safe and the chips cant get into my boots.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    Steel toe caps are a must for any job.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 9,041 Mod ✭✭✭✭greysides


    The aim of argument, or of discussion, should not be victory, but progress. Joseph Joubert

    The ultimate purpose of debate is not to produce consensus. It's to promote critical thinking.

    Adam Grant



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 404 ✭✭ml100


    Bought a pair old proper oregon gloves, and trousers, and also the proper helmet with muffs and face guard. Didn't buy boots..... Yet.

    I wouldnt do too much sawing, but one accident is one too many.
    What boots does everyone else wear?

    Got a pair if oregon steel toe chainsaw boots (not Wellingtons), very comfy


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 29,089 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    Are there any female chainsaw wielders out there? I am nearly afraid to ask this...I don't think I would be using one, my hands are simply not strong enough any more, but would a not-usually-manual-working woman be able to handle one? Not at height or felling, more cutting up felled timber. Assuming all safety equipment and a person with good caution and cop-on :D

    Any advice on courses and suitable saws? Much appreciated, thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,980 ✭✭✭Genghis Cant


    looksee wrote: »
    Are there any female chainsaw wielders out there? I am nearly afraid to ask this...I don't think I would be using one, my hands are simply not strong enough any more, but would a not-usually-manual-working woman be able to handle one? Not at height or felling, more cutting up felled timber. Assuming all safety equipment and a person with good caution and cop-on :D

    Any advice on courses and suitable saws? Much appreciated, thanks.

    There's a few saws knocking about here and herself, the woman of the house, has often taken up the small Stihl and attacked a bit of fallen timber when I'd be at it.
    No bother to a willing woman. It's the Stihl MS180 that she's used. Tidy light little saw for occasional use.
    As far as I know Coillte still run training courses.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,661 ✭✭✭savemejebus


    I hope it's ok to post this here, if not please feel free to tell me where to post.

    Can anyone recommend a cordless (battery) chainsaw that would be suitable for mainly trimming branches, bushes and cutting firewood? Wood is too far away for a wired electric and my use case is too infrequent for a petrol. Branches would probably be less than 10" thick and ash. Bushes would be laurel and leylandi.

    Budget is not too healthy and the ones i've been looking at from my own research are these:

    McCulloch Li 40CS

    Black+Decker 36v

    Greenworks 24v

    Thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Local shop has the Husqvarna agency, and they have a battery saw in the window. I was asking the sales guy, and he saws it will cut for 45 minutes on a fully charged battery. It's nice and light.
    I don't know the exact price, but I think it's nearly 500 euro.

    Be dead easy for a child to start it, so that would be my biggest concern with them.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Can anyone recommend a cordless (battery) chainsaw that would be suitable for mainly trimming branches, bushes and cutting firewood? Wood is too far away for a wired electric and my use case is too infrequent for a petrol.

    Recommend? Absolutely not. Not at that kind of price-point anyway. Honestly, you'd be better served by a bow saw and/or a pruning saw such as a Silky something or other rather than a cheap battery powered saw.

    If you've 600 or so to spend, then I can recommend a couple of models of battery powered saw.

    Otherwise, buy a decent brand's budget/casual petrol saw like this:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Husqvarna-236-14-Chain-Saw/dp/B005X4QIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522180221&sr=8-3&keywords=husqvarna+236&dpID=41M5jQGakDL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

    Then run it on Aspen 2T:

    http://www.gardenequipment.ie/products/alkylate-fuel (Note; not a recommendation of supplier, just a google search result for an Aspen stockist!)

    It won't bugger up the carb or fuel line. It won't stink to high heaven. The fuel will cost a bit more, but if you're an infrequent user, that won't be something you'd likely worry about anyway.

    Problem solved.

    Remember to put some money into the right protective equipment also.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Recommend? Absolutely not. Not at that kind of price-point anyway. Honestly, you'd be better served by a bow saw and/or a pruning saw such as a Silky something or other rather than a cheap battery powered saw.

    If you've 600 or so to spend, then I can recommend a couple of models of battery powered saw.

    Otherwise, buy a decent brand's budget/casual petrol saw like this:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Husqvarna-236-14-Chain-Saw/dp/B005X4QIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522180221&sr=8-3&keywords=husqvarna+236&dpID=41M5jQGakDL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

    Then run it on Aspen 2T:

    http://www.gardenequipment.ie/products/alkylate-fuel (Note; not a recommendation of supplier, just a google search result for an Aspen stockist!)

    It won't bugger up the carb or fuel line. It won't stink to high heaven. The fuel will cost a bit more, but if you're an infrequent user, that won't be something you'd likely worry about anyway.

    Problem solved.

    Remember to put some money into the right protective equipment also.

    +1

    Also infrequent use of a battery pack will shorten its life also.

    The difference between cheap battery stuff and expensive is night and day.

    Aspen a nice fresh saw would be best bang for buck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,513 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Recommend? Absolutely not. Not at that kind of price-point anyway. Honestly, you'd be better served by a bow saw and/or a pruning saw such as a Silky something or other rather than a cheap battery powered saw.

    If you've 600 or so to spend, then I can recommend a couple of models of battery powered saw.

    Otherwise, buy a decent brand's budget/casual petrol saw like this:

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Husqvarna-236-14-Chain-Saw/dp/B005X4QIVI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522180221&sr=8-3&keywords=husqvarna+236&dpID=41M5jQGakDL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

    Then run it on Aspen 2T:

    http://www.gardenequipment.ie/products/alkylate-fuel (Note; not a recommendation of supplier, just a google search result for an Aspen stockist!)

    It won't bugger up the carb or fuel line. It won't stink to high heaven. The fuel will cost a bit more, but if you're an infrequent user, that won't be something you'd likely worry about anyway.

    Problem solved.

    Remember to put some money into the right protective equipment also.

    +2

    Good quality battery saws that are built up to a specification (Stihl, Husqvarna, Makita, etc) are an entirely different animal to those built down to a price point, like those suggested by the OP.

    I'll second the idea of a mid-level/budget-level petrol saw from one of the well known manufacturers, run on Aspen or similar fuel.

    Also, just for information, Aspen is a brand name of a type of alkylate fuel.

    There are 3 flavours of alkylate available here in Ireland that I've come across:
    Aspen
    Stihl MotoMix
    Best Fuel

    Husqvarna XP Power 2T isn't available here yet, to the best of my knowledge. It will be shortly I'm sure.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 509 ✭✭✭wayoutwest


    Might have the chance to get hold of an old Husky 154se. Seems to be working and sounds faster reving than me 365 Special that i'm used to. Anyone know anything about this saw and whether it would be worth getting as a back up for the 365.
    Comparison to 365?
    Genuine parts availability?
    Reasonable price to pay? ( cosmetically looks very used).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,134 ✭✭✭✭Grizzly 45


    In the 80 120 model range with minimum a 3.5 foot plus blade.
    Yes,I do have some trees that require such a brute. Doesn't matter how old it is,so long as it has compression and runs.[More or less]
    Anyone got for sale,rent ,hire?Or know of one?
    TIA
    Grizzly 45

    "If you want to keep someone away from your house, Just fire the shotgun through the door."

    Vice President [and former lawyer] Joe Biden Field& Stream Magazine interview Feb 2013 "



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Grizzly 45 wrote: »
    In the 80 120 model range with minimum a 3.5 foot plus blade.
    Yes,I do have some trees that require such a brute. Doesn't matter how old it is,so long as it has compression and runs.[More or less]
    Anyone got for sale,rent ,hire?Or know of one?
    TIA
    Grizzly 45

    Chance your arm on flea bay?

    https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/stihl-chainsaw/263789630636?hash=item3d6b1654ac:g:oAoAAOSwNFFa6v~f


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,216 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    anyone using the stihl 2 in 1 easy file? getting what I think is a reasonable edge from a normal hand file but just wondering is there a noticeable difference with the easy file?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,513 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    anyone using the stihl 2 in 1 easy file? getting what I think is a reasonable edge from a normal hand file but just wondering is there a noticeable difference with the easy file?

    It's a glorious piece of kit for keeping a non-butchered chain in tip-top condition.
    I'd give the chain a few quick strokes with one at every fuel fill, and it does a superb job for a proper workshop sharpen too. Again, on an unmolested chain.

    If a chain has been abused, I'd switch to a Swedish roller or even the electric grinder if needs be.

    I'm pretty sure Pferd came up with this gadget originally, and that they actually make them for Stihl.
    They certainly do it in 5 sizes, rather than the 3 that Stihl do:
    https://www.pferd.com/uk-en/products/files/sharpening-files/chain-saw-sharpeners-chain-sharp/chain-sharp-cs-x-chain-saw-sharpeners/pos-packaging/pos-packaging/cs-x-5-16/?filter=%7B%27q%27%3A%27chain%27%7D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,563 ✭✭✭mayota


    anyone using the stihl 2 in 1 easy file? getting what I think is a reasonable edge from a normal hand file but just wondering is there a noticeable difference with the easy file?


    I use one here and swear by it. Quick and accurate. Takes down the rakers aswell.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,753 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Melodeon wrote: »
    It's a glorious piece of kit for keeping a non-butchered chain in tip-top condition.
    I'd give the chain a few quick strokes with one at every fuel fill, and it does a superb job for a proper workshop sharpen too. Again, on an unmolested chain.

    If a chain has been abused, I'd switch to a Swedish roller or even the electric grinder if needs be.

    I'm pretty sure Pferd came up with this gadget originally, and that they actually make them for Stihl.
    They certainly do it in 5 sizes, rather than the 3 that Stihl do:
    https://www.pferd.com/uk-en/products/files/sharpening-files/chain-saw-sharpeners-chain-sharp/chain-sharp-cs-x-chain-saw-sharpeners/pos-packaging/pos-packaging/cs-x-5-16/?filter=%7B%27q%27%3A%27chain%27%7D
    mayota wrote: »
    I use one here and swear by it. Quick and accurate. Takes down the rakers aswell.

    I think this is it

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    I was using one of them lidl long handle branch chainsaws last weekend and to put it bluntly I think it’s booked.
    The motor isn’t catching the chain, as if the clutch is bolixed.
    My question is, is it worth fixing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,633 ✭✭✭TheBody


    ganmo wrote: »
    I was using one of them lidl long handle branch chainsaws last weekend and to put it bluntly I think it’s booked.
    The motor isn’t catching the chain, as if the clutch is bolixed.
    My question is, is it worth fixing?

    Is it still under guarantee? Have you got the receipt? They are pretty good at replacing stuff.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    Na it’s a few years old at this stage


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    I was looking at pole saws last night Sthil and Husq are €700+ which i'm not paying(I won't get the use to justify that)
    any other brands that are reputable that aren't that mad money?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    ganmo wrote: »
    I was looking at pole saws last night Sthil and Husq are €700+ which i'm not paying(I won't get the use to justify that)
    any other brands that are reputable that aren't that mad money?



    Have a Tanaka here,(30c.c.) is about 10 years old, on its second bar, and God knows how many chains, never a problem.
    Just don’t go the Chinese route (or you’ll go again) With occasional use, and a bit of care,any other should last a lifetime


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,573 ✭✭✭✭ednwireland


    ganmo wrote: »
    I was looking at pole saws last night Sthil and Husq are €700+ which i'm not paying(I won't get the use to justify that)
    any other brands that are reputable that aren't that mad money?

    dont know about a reputable brand but i picked up a hyundai multi tool seems good enough for occasional use.
    https://www.justlawnmowers.co.uk/hyundai-hymt5080-petrol-5-in-1-multi-tool.html

    im on 3/4 of an acre so just using it to chop hedges and high branches, have chainsaws for bigger stuff


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    Ordered a black and decker battery powered one for about 120 so we’ll see how I get on


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    ganmo wrote: »
    Ordered a black and decker battery powered one for about 120 so we’ll see how I get on

    For that money and small usage I'd spend it on a silky blade and 2/3 fibre glass extensions.

    A chainsaw, especially one driving chain a long way from power source, needs a lot of power.
    The battery in a €120 unit won't have that.

    There are probably battery options but not at that price level.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    ganmo wrote: »
    Ordered a black and decker battery powered one for about 120 so we’ll see how I get on

    ‘Tis your money.....but ford2000 is right,
    A battery pole saw, unless perfectly sharp and cutting light wood ( max 3” diameter) won’t last pi##ing time


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 Beaubeau


    Hi
    My stihl s10 has finally died. Looking at a new ms391 sealer also has an older 039.
    For farm use fire wood fencing etc . Are these saws value for money


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,980 ✭✭✭Genghis Cant


    https://monaghanhire.com/products/oleo-mac-gsh-560-chainsaw

    Any thoughts on this. To me it looks a very decent saw for the money.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    https://monaghanhire.com/products/oleo-mac-gsh-560-chainsaw

    Any thoughts on this. To me it looks a very decent saw for the money.

    They are a good make, I have one if their strimmers nearly 20 years and its been excellent.
    Proper magnesium crankcase on that saw, which places it above the "home owner" cathegory.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,457 ✭✭✭ford2600


    Nekarsulm wrote: »
    They are a good make, I have one if their strimmers nearly 20 years and its been excellent.
    Proper magnesium crankcase on that saw, which places it above the "home owner" cathegory.

    I had a oleomac strimmer bought in 98, 10 years brilliant service until the wrong person had it for 5 minutes... good friend had a chainsaw from that time which was solid to

    They used to be made in Italy, now Italian engineering, which is code for made in China I suppose.

    Search the bigger uk/USA forestry forums for reviews maybe


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,063 ✭✭✭UrbanFret




  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Perfect for holding a door open or for those other occasions when you don’t need a working chainsaw.

    Junk saw. Try to find a used 340, 345 or 350 if money is tight.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,063 ✭✭✭UrbanFret


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Perfect for holding a door open or for those other occasions when you don’t need a working chainsaw.

    Junk saw. Try to find a used 340, 345 or 350 if money is tight.


    That's What I like, An honest answer,no bull****.Thanks.;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    UrbanFret wrote: »
    That's What I like, An honest answer,no bull****.Thanks.;)

    Find a clean & cared for Husqvarna 61, only saw you'll ever need. Probably!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    Bought this old Echo today. 60cc saw, they were made from 1965 until 1983.
    Note the hand oiler for the chain!

    axLEZ2b.jpg


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  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,753 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    Does anyone know where to get a coil for an early 90's Jonsered. I am confused by ebay's offerings with a wide range of prices from 7 to 40 odd quid. Is a 7.99 coil from Hong kong worth a gamble?

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Does anyone know where to get a coil for an early 90's Jonsered. I am confused by ebay's offerings with a wide range of prices from 7 to 40 odd quid. Is a 7.99 coil from Hong kong worth a gamble?

    No. On the gamble.

    What’s the part number or saw model and serial number? I might have what you need.


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 12,753 Mod ✭✭✭✭blue5000


    JayZeus wrote: »
    No. On the gamble.

    What’s the part number or saw model and serial number? I might have what you need.

    630 super II. Sorry I don't know the part number. 201015x ser no.

    If the seat's wet, sit on yer hat, a cool head is better than a wet ar5e.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,264 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    blue5000 wrote: »
    Does anyone know where to get a coil for an early 90's Jonsered. I am confused by ebay's offerings with a wide range of prices from 7 to 40 odd quid. Is a 7.99 coil from Hong kong worth a gamble?

    Join "chainsawcollectors.se" and talk to Magnus.
    (The local place that sells Jonsereds haven't got one in stock.
    They can order it, 80 euro.)

    Edit. The mechanic guy that works there on saws and quads etc is a mate. Ill give him a call tonight to see if he has a 630 in the parts pile .....


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    blue5000 wrote: »
    630 super II. Sorry I don't know the part number. 201015x ser no.

    Out of luck here I'm afraid.


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