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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,617 ✭✭✭Squatman


    Are fire doors in any ways worth while? I know that they will keep the draft out, but will it do anything to retain the heat, or make lighting the fire easier. Something like this de vielle door

    http://www.frcathcartltd.com/home-essentials-c4/fireside-accessories-c68/de-vielle-eco-firefront-door-p2910


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 guest2018


    Hi,
    What is the best/preferred method for installing multi-fuel 10 kW stove:
    Lay the laminate floor then place Hearth on top?
    or put Hearth down and floor round it?

    Laminate is going on top of 3mm underlay on top of concrete floor.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    I put the hearth on top of the laminate, much better finish. Only needs a small bit of construction adhesive to secure it


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,449 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Squatman wrote: »
    Are fire doors in any ways worth while? I know that they will keep the draft out, but will it do anything to retain the heat, or make lighting the fire easier. Something like this de vielle door

    http://www.frcathcartltd.com/home-essentials-c4/fireside-accessories-c68/de-vielle-eco-firefront-door-p2910

    It won't make the fire easier to light, but it will reduce fuel consumption and draughts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7 guest2018


    OwenM wrote: »
    I put the hearth on top of the laminate, much better finish. Only needs a small bit of construction adhesive to secure it

    Thank you


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,551 ✭✭✭SeaFields


    The latch that closes the main door of our stove has, over years of use, worn away the front of the stove. That being, the door doesn't close as tight anymore meaning a constant draft on the fuel. It's eating fuel as a result.

    Anyone experienced this and have a solution? It's a Stanley boiler stove but cannot remember the model for the life of me.


  • Moderators, Education Moderators Posts: 2,283 Mod ✭✭✭✭angeldaisy


    I was looking at purchasing a stove. I've been advised to get a Henley, so priced up the Thames 8kw model.

    Is this the best option? I'm not looking for anything fancy, I liked the cleaner lines of the Thames, but if there is a cheaper option I'd be interested. It needs to be a freestanding multifuel stove.
    I would prefer to buy quality, but not pay extra for the name if that makes sense.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    What would you save with a cheaper brand, €100 - 150? Is this worth the hassle if something is wrong, of getting tradesmen out, the mess it creates, taking time off work to let them in. Not advocating Henley per se (even though I do have one) but remember 'buy cheap, buy twice'

    Also, for a dry stove a wood burner should be fine, no need for multifuel. I only burn coal (sometimes) because it's a big boiler stove and a lot of heat is required. If you fill a dry stove with coal your going to melt


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭chuck eastwood


    angeldaisy wrote: »
    I was looking at purchasing a stove. I've been advised to get a Henley, so priced up the Thames 8kw model.

    Is this the best option? I'm not looking for anything fancy, I liked the cleaner lines of the Thames, but if there is a cheaper option I'd be interested. It needs to be a freestanding multifuel stove.
    I would prefer to buy quality, but not pay extra for the name if that makes sense.

    Thanks

    If it's a non boiler version it doesn't really matter what you buy as long as it's not a €400 lump with a door. It does however make a difference for boiler versions because of the internal baffles for heat capture and water flow/return mixing. I know it's a bit of work but if you are getting a boiler version it's worth asking the sales guy or installer about the internal workings because cosmetics mean very little when the stove doesn't perform


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Insert stove multi fuel non boiler, 2 storey house, does this have to have a flexi flue inserted on installation or can it be fitted directly into the chimney pipe itself? TIA


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  • Registered Users Posts: 832 ✭✭✭harvester of sorrow


    Hi all,badly need some advice
    Just got my stove fitted last week, and while we initially where going to clad the chimney breast in natural stone, we decided to have the stove fitted flush to chimney breast for a more "sleek" look.(like a flat screen tv on a wall)

    We go the chimney breast skimmed to cover any holes or crevices from the fire surround but the problem is that the chimney breast over the stove gets quite hot and is causing the skim coat to crack. The plasterer has said that he will have to go back to the block work about 6-8 inches above the stove and build it back out again but im convinced that it will keep cracking although he is confident it wont .

    Anyone got any experience or faced a similar issue?
    How did ye resolve it?

    TIA


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    There is a 'gypsum free' plaster designed for just this, haven't used it myself but intend trying it when I install a new boiler stove, am moving house soon. Two builders I spoke to said it will still crack....

    If you do try it then please please let it dry fully before lighting the stove again - I'm talking about 8-10 days drying time, then light a small fire, wood only, the moisture will cause most of the expansion and hence cracking.

    If you have a dry stove, forget it - I really don't think any plaster work is going to stand up to those temperatures.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,585 ✭✭✭Mickiemcfist


    sorry, just jumping in here, what's a dry stove?


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,399 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    sorry, just jumping in here, what's a dry stove?

    A non-boiler stove I assume.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 18,958 ✭✭✭✭Shefwedfan


    sorry, just jumping in here, what's a dry stove?


    camp-gas-stove-with-kettle-on-desert-ground-picture-id536657434


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Insert stove multi fuel non boiler, 2 storey house, does this have to have a flexi flue inserted on installation or can it be fitted directly into the chimney pipe itself? TIA

    Bump, anyone?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Bump, anyone?

    A flexi flue will stop the buildup of creosote in your flue.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N1Q6Mu8KeMg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,346 ✭✭✭easypazz


    angeldaisy wrote: »
    I was looking at purchasing a stove. I've been advised to get a Henley, so priced up the Thames 8kw model.

    Is this the best option? I'm not looking for anything fancy, I liked the cleaner lines of the Thames, but if there is a cheaper option I'd be interested. It needs to be a freestanding multifuel stove.
    I would prefer to buy quality, but not pay extra for the name if that makes sense.

    Thanks

    Henley are standard Chinese stoves, dressed up with nice branding and brochures, and a shop taking a nice cut.

    You are paying for all the branding, the salesmans cut, the shops overheads and the VAT, so if you take say €300 - €400 off the price you will get much the same Chinese product for a lot less.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    easypazz wrote: »
    Henley are standard Chinese stoves, dressed up with nice branding and brochures, and a shop taking a nice cut.

    You are paying for all the branding, the salesmans cut, the shops overheads and the VAT, so if you take say €300 - €400 off the price you will get much the same Chinese product for a lot less.

    You are talking out your arse.
    A standard Chinese stove and product has limited quality control.
    Brands with stoves made in China like Henley, Heat Design and now Stanley put huge work into ensuring the quality of the product is of a very high standard.
    Also, a large part of these brands range are now manufactured in Europe,not China.
    You also get extended warranty’s of up to 5 years.
    By the way, Vat is payable regardless so not a saving.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Bump, anyone?

    If the condition of your chimney isn’t good, a Flexi flue is advisable.
    I would 100% recommend if the chimney has been in use for over 10 years already.
    If not, a clay pot adapter should be fine.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,346 ✭✭✭easypazz


    Forge83 wrote: »
    You are talking out your arse.
    A standard Chinese stove and product has limited quality control.
    Brands with stoves made in China like Henley, Heat Design and now Stanley put huge work into ensuring the quality of the product is of a very high standard.
    Also, a large part of these brands range are now manufactured in Europe,not China.
    You also get extended warranty’s of up to 5 years.
    By the way, Vat is payable regardless so not a saving.

    Vat on a 600€ stove 112€, vat on a €300 stove €56.

    Shops markup say €200, so of the extra €300 thats €256 straight away.

    Henley only give a 3 year warranty on boilers and 1 year on the internal parts, these being the only things that need replacing anyway.

    A pub near me has 2 unbranded stoves the last 10 years and they are still perfect, just replace a few parts now and again.

    How do you know a Henley stove from China has better quality control than a similar stove with no badge? You dont.

    Any what difference does it make where a stove is made? What does a european foundry do that a chinese foundry cant do?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    easypazz wrote: »
    Vat on a 600€ stove 112€, vat on a €300 stove €56.

    Shops markup say €200, so of the extra €300 thats €256 straight away.

    Henley only give a 3 year warranty on boilers and 1 year on the internal parts, these being the only things that need replacing anyway.

    A pub near me has 2 unbranded stoves the last 10 years and they are still perfect, just replace a few parts now and again.

    How do you know a Henley stove from China has better quality control than a similar stove with no badge? You dont.

    Any what difference does it make where a stove is made? What does a european foundry do that a chinese foundry cant do?

    If you want to save €300 on a device that could kill you or destroy your house if it's faulty go ahead. Have a look on youtube for footage of exploding boilers. I think we're all aware of carbon monoxide.

    The foundry may or may not use the correct or faulty materials in the EU or China but an indigenous company that invests in a brand will have some oversight on the quality of the goods they sell, that's what you are paying for.

    If we were talking about €300 per month I'd be on your side - this is a one off purchase that should last twenty years.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,346 ✭✭✭easypazz


    OwenM wrote: »
    If you want to save €300 on a device that could kill you or destroy your house if it's faulty go ahead. Have a look on youtube for footage of exploding boilers. I think we're all aware of carbon monoxide.

    The foundry may or may not use the correct or faulty materials in the EU or China but an indigenous company that invests in a brand will have some oversight on the quality of the goods they sell, that's what you are paying for.

    If we were talking about €300 per month I'd be on your side - this is a one off purchase that should last twenty years.

    Why are you going on about exploding boilers, a boiler was never mentioned in the query I was responding to.

    Why are you saying a stove without a badge could kill you or destroy your house.

    There is a plane with a boeing badge on it, the plane keeps crashing.

    Stoves are low tech, they all do much the same thing and mainly come from China. They can be bought direct or can be bought via middlemen in shops with various jargon to make them sound better.

    In my experience I've seen plenty of unbranded stoves working just fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Forge83 wrote: »
    If the condition of your chimney isn’t good, a Flexi flue is advisable.
    I would 100% recommend if the chimney has been in use for over 10 years already.
    If not, a clay pot adapter should be fine.

    Anyone got a ballpark figure to have insert stove fitted with flexi liner, two storey house with cowling, etc etc?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 859 ✭✭✭OwenM


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anyone got a ballpark figure to have insert stove fitted with flexi liner, two storey house with cowling, etc etc?

    I was quoted €800 last week, supply and fit flexi liner and install stove, two story house, Limerick area.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    OwenM wrote: »
    I was quoted €800 last week, supply and fit flexi liner and install stove, two story house, Limerick area.

    Not including the stove I assume?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Not including the stove I assume?

    That would be fitting only


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    vicwatson wrote: »
    That would be fitting only

    Well they say supply and fit of liner....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Well they say supply and fit of liner....

    Exactly, supply of the liner, fit of the liner and fit of the stove, not supply the stove


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,249 ✭✭✭GY A1


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anyone got a ballpark figure to have insert stove fitted with flexi liner, two storey house with cowling, etc etc?

    You buy the stove €
    Flexi flue and fittings €350
    A half day - full day work for an installer
    Max = €300
    That’s provided fits in existing fireplace and no major alterations required.

    I put boiler stove in recently
    Insert boiler stove €850
    Flexi flue kit € fittings €350
    New dual cylinder €250
    Plumbing parts & pipe €400
    Plumber 3 days € tbc
    But prob 450
    Also required some tidy up and plasterboard
    And plasterer also €200


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    GY A1 wrote: »
    You buy the stove €
    Flexi flue and fittings €350
    A half day - full day work for an installer
    Max = €300
    That’s provided fits in existing fireplace and no major alterations required.

    I put boiler stove in recently
    Insert boiler stove €850
    Flexi flue kit € fittings €350
    New dual cylinder €250
    Plumbing parts & pipe €400
    Plumber 3 days € tbc
    But prob 450
    Also required some tidy up and plasterboard
    And plasterer also €200

    I think you are in for a surprise with your labour costs.
    Stove and liner Install from a qualified installer will cost somewhere between €450-€650. Maybe even more depending on where you are located.

    3 days plumbing labour for €450.... must be the cheapest plumber in the country! PM me his number, I will use him every week at those rates.
    Would be expecting to pay a qualified plumber a minimum of €30 per hour. More if he has a labourer with him.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28,404 ✭✭✭✭vicwatson


    GY A1 wrote: »
    You buy the stove €
    Flexi flue and fittings €350
    A half day - full day work for an installer
    Max = €300
    That’s provided fits in existing fireplace and no major alterations required.

    I put boiler stove in recently
    Insert boiler stove €850
    Flexi flue kit € fittings €350
    New dual cylinder €250
    Plumbing parts & pipe €400
    Plumber 3 days € tbc
    But prob 450
    Also required some tidy up and plasterboard
    And plasterer also €200

    The one I was talking about is not a back boiler stove, but a multi fuel insert stove


  • Registered Users Posts: 832 ✭✭✭harvester of sorrow


    Will house insurance cover you if your stove has been fitted without a flexi Liner?
    I'm hearing alot of conflicting arguments....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 697 ✭✭✭PaddyCar


    Anyone happen to know the make/model of the stove in attached pic?? Moved into new house and can't locate a badge anywhere on the stove. The controls aren't working properly so looking to source spares. Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    PaddyCar wrote: »
    Anyone happen to know the make/model of the stove in attached pic?? Moved into new house and can't locate a badge anywhere on the stove. The controls aren't working properly so looking to source spares. Thanks

    Looks like a Saey. Really really old model so parts will be very hard to find.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Will house insurance cover you if your stove has been fitted without a flexi Liner?
    I'm hearing alot of conflicting arguments....

    If the tradesmen says it needs a liner and you don’t install a liner, then yes it’s possible a claim against a chimney fire in the future could be void.

    If the tradesmen says the chimney is in good condition and doesn’t require a liner, then no.

    In short, it’s the professionals decision, not yours.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 774 ✭✭✭Triboro


    vicwatson wrote: »
    Anyone got a ballpark figure to have insert stove fitted with flexi liner, two storey house with cowling, etc etc?

    Had a new henly insert fitted recently with new fireplace surround,hearth and granite back.
    Fitters supplied 9m flue liner kit,vermiculite(?)insulation around it and 2 new rain cowls on chimney.
    Plastered around new fireplace and made good.
    2 men for 4 hours.
    €1000
    Happy with that for job done right and those flue kits are dear!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,585 ✭✭✭Mickiemcfist


    Triboro wrote: »
    Had a new henly insert fitted recently with new fireplace surround,hearth and granite back.
    Fitters supplied 9m flue liner kit,vermiculite insulation around it and 2 new rain cowls on chimney.
    Plastered around new fireplace and made good
    2 men for 4 hours.
    €1000
    Happy with that for job done right and those flue kits are dear!

    That sounds good, where was that? If in Dublin would you mind PM'ing their details? Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 774 ✭✭✭Triboro


    That sounds good, where was that? If in Dublin would you mind PM'ing their details? Thanks

    Tipp


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 856 ✭✭✭rebeve


    I had a Henley Opollo 5kw insert fitted abt 3 years ago , Center section of grate is badly warped . Would that be normal for that type of boiler .


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,811 ✭✭✭dzilla


    When using the peat briquettes in the stove do ye use the primary or secondary air draught for controlling the flame? Should I treat them like coal or wood ?


  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,399 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    dzilla wrote: »
    When using the peat briquettes in the stove do ye use the primary or secondary air draught for controlling the flame? Should I treat them like coal or wood ?

    I would have thought coal(so you want the air coming from below.)

    I could be wrong though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,924 ✭✭✭adocholiday


    Hi all, I have an 8kw bilberry stove and have some questions.

    Firstly it's multi-fuel and I burn a mixture of pine logs, briquettes and smokeless coal. I have no bother getting a fire going in it but the heat it outputs can vary a lot. There are 3 controls on it: a top switch for regulating heat which I keep fully open at all times, a rotating steel plate that regulates the air coming in which I leave open fully until the fire is burning well then close almost all the way to maintain the fire. The third I'm not sure about and have no manual to reference. It's a bar at the base of the unit that can be pushed in or pulled out but no matter what it doesn't appear to impact the fire or the heat output. It's not the lever that moves the grate to drop the ashes. Anyone have any idea what that might be and if it might affect the heat output?

    The other thing is I've read about cleaning creosote from the flue at the stove level on a regular basis but the installer set my stove into the fireplace and bricked it up so I can't actually access the flue at the stove level. Is this something that he shouldn't have done? Or is there access to this from inside the stove itself? Cheers


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,968 ✭✭✭blindside88


    Hi all, I have an 8kw bilberry stove and have some questions.

    Firstly it's multi-fuel and I burn a mixture of pine logs, briquettes and smokeless coal. I have no bother getting a fire going in it but the heat it outputs can vary a lot. There are 3 controls on it: a top switch for regulating heat which I keep fully open at all times, a rotating steel plate that regulates the air coming in which I leave open fully until the fire is burning well then close almost all the way to maintain the fire. The third I'm not sure about and have no manual to reference. It's a bar at the base of the unit that can be pushed in or pulled out but no matter what it doesn't appear to impact the fire or the heat output. It's not the lever that moves the grate to drop the ashes. Anyone have any idea what that might be and if it might affect the heat output?

    The other thing is I've read about cleaning creosote from the flue at the stove level on a regular basis but the installer set my stove into the fireplace and bricked it up so I can't actually access the flue at the stove level. Is this something that he shouldn't have done? Or is there access to this from inside the stove itself? Cheers

    I’m a novice but might be able to help you out a little but someone else will probably be along with better info. Is the third control to keep the glass clear? If you close this off does the stove glass blacken up?

    In relation to reaching the flue from stove level, you can remove the bricks inside the stove to access the flue, just remember the order in which you took them out so as that you can get them back in correctly


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 687 ✭✭✭mrtom


    Smoking issue with stove
    I have a Fireline FX 5W stove that smokes when I open it to refuel. The chimney is fully lined and is cleaned twice a year yet the issue persists. The baffle is correctly fitted & I have fitted a spinning cowl, yet no difference.


    I have attached a pdf manual with full schematics of this hi efficient stove with its primary, secondary and tertiary air controls for the experts here that understand such.
    Also a dropbox link to a short video showing the problem. Here you can see that despite a strong draught it still smokes.


    I welcome any ideas out there that would help !

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4td09aw4epo237b/stove%20smoking%20.mp4?dl=0


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    mrtom wrote: »
    Smoking issue with stove
    I have a Fireline FX 5W stove that smokes when I open it to refuel. The chimney is fully lined and is cleaned twice a year yet the issue persists. The baffle is correctly fitted & I have fitted a spinning cowl, yet no difference.


    I have attached a pdf manual with full schematics of this hi efficient stove with its primary, secondary and tertiary air controls for the experts here that understand such.
    Also a dropbox link to a short video showing the problem. Here you can see that despite a strong draught it still smokes.


    I welcome any ideas out there that would help !

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4td09aw4epo237b/stove%20smoking%20.mp4?dl=0

    Could it be lack of ventilation in the house?
    Have you a wall vent in the room?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 687 ✭✭✭mrtom


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Could it be lack of ventilation in the house?
    Have you a wall vent in the room?


    yes, issue also with windows open, good point though notice strong draught at air intake on the video clip.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    mrtom wrote: »
    yes, issue also with windows open, good point though notice strong draught at air intake on the video clip.

    Windows open will not help as they can pull more air out than in.
    Technically the room has to have a permanent open air vent in the room.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,688 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Wondering what is best to use to clean ash from the interior firebricks of a stove, is there some sort of brush that is best to use or just any kind of wire brush


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Muahahaha wrote: »
    Wondering what is best to use to clean ash from the interior firebricks of a stove, is there some sort of brush that is best to use or just any kind of wire brush

    Don’t use a wire brush as you will damage the bricks.
    A normal fireside brush is all that should be used.
    Another alternative would be an Ash Vacuum.


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