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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,487 ✭✭✭Pov06


    Hi all,

    At the moment we are living in a duplex apartment meaning the upstairs of the house is owned by a different person and both floors have separate entrances.

    We are interested in putting a stove and flue into the 1 floor attachment (where the door is) to the block. See attached image.

    My question is, does the flue have to be put in so it goes above the overall height of the building (2 floors) or just above the 1 floor entrance?

    The bit of the house highlighted in red is not owned by us, the rest is.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    Pov06 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    At the moment we are living in a duplex apartment meaning the upstairs of the house is owned by a different person and both floors have separate entrances.

    We are interested in putting a stove and flue into the 1 floor attachment (where the door is) to the block. See attached image.

    My question is, does the flue have to be put in so it goes above the overall height of the building (2 floors) or just above the 1 floor entrance?

    The bit of the house highlighted in red is not owned by us, the rest is.

    The flue must go up a min height of 5 mtrs so it has to go up the whole way 2 storeys


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,812 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    Pov06 wrote: »
    Hi all,

    At the moment we are living in a duplex apartment meaning the upstairs of the house is owned by a different person and both floors have separate entrances.

    We are interested in putting a stove and flue into the 1 floor attachment (where the door is) to the block. See attached image.

    My question is, does the flue have to be put in so it goes above the overall height of the building (2 floors) or just above the 1 floor entrance?

    The bit of the house highlighted in red is not owned by us, the rest is.

    I can't answer for building/stove regulations, but you (or your neighbours for that matter!) wouldn't want a flue ending right outside your window - imagine what happens when the wind is blowing towards that side of the house :eek:

    ETA - just realised that the bit in red is NOT yours. My point remains the same, though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 58 ✭✭dugger


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi Dugger,

    I'm sorry to say but I am 100 percent sure their products are manufactured in China.I have been there and seen them beside some of Ireland's other well known brands all made from the same quality castings....
    Where is the foundry in Wexford that they are using?... As I'm fairly sure there is no active foundry in Ireland hence why the only Irish manufacturing stove companies all only manufacture steel stoves.Kind of difficult for you to have seen them made on the factory floor as they are cast in a foundry......... In China.
    Now they may assemble some parts of the stoves in Wexford similar to Stanley in Waterford but I assure you they are both manufactured in a china.
    As I said though,they are a good quality product.A bit expensive for what they are but nothing majorly wrong with them.
    As for Gastech certification,I have requested it previously and I am still waiting...
    I will believe it when I see it either from one of their retailers or on their website.

    Sanchez
    I am not a fool, I don't know why you would suggest they are 100% made in china when I clearly seen there guys welding boilers, testing boilers and building stoves they even showed me the rig that there built on think he said 36 inserts/shift and 8 boiler stoves, all there castings were in wooden crates and they said they came from China,Hungry and Poland, I'd say you have your info wrong because on the independent test report from Gastec it says manufactured by pierce stoves I'll try and post later when I finish work, I'm from Waterford and the same rubbish is been passed around about Stanley saying there stuff comes from China when it's not true, I think you should go down and have a look for yourself instead of making blurred comments can't see what your intention is,


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,728 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    viztopia wrote: »
    Moved into a new house with free standing stove in sitting room. Had a Plummer look at it the other evening as it doesn't seem to be heating any of the radiators. If I turn on the oil heating then it seems to go through the stove in some way as the stove too gets hot and pipes also. There is a good bit of banging going on with the pipes as well. If I light the fire it will heat the room and water. Plummer says that the stove was put in as an afterthought and the cylinder is on the same level as it and we will have to put it in the attic to get it working right. Trust my Plummer in what he says but does anyone think he is right without seeing it? I know the easiest thing to do is pick up the phone and ask him again but would like to see what anyone might think.

    Try creating your own thread about this issue and include plenty of pics of the stove pipework and Hotpress pipework


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭liam7831


    Any opinions on a Nestor Martin 21kw solid fuel stove for a 3 bed semi. I also have oil heating. Want it for the sitting room. Looked at a few in showroom today but know feck all about em. Tks


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,626 ✭✭✭roshje


    Hi, anyone have any reviews for Yeoman CL7 insert? Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi Liam,

    Nestor Martin are a top notch stove.
    However they have ceased trading so there are question marks about back up service and spare parts in the future.Im sure some company will pick up the business of doing the spares so I'd be more concerned with back up service.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi Roshje,

    I don't have a review as such but I know they are a decent stove.
    The best place to go for UK manufactured stove reviews is www.whatsstove.co.uk


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭Dave1014


    Hi
    Can anybody suggest what a closure plate can be made from?
    Is it ok to use the good ole green fireboard or does it have to be metal?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,626 ✭✭✭roshje


    Hi Sanchez

    Tried that website no reviews on them, maybe not as popular as others.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 1 oranna


    Hi ,
    After weeks of wrecking my head I finally decided to go with the nestor martin probably s23 but am sorely disappointed to hear they have ceased production - do you think it would be a safe bet to go ahead. All the tech talk/demo from the salesman sounds very impressive. The other option is the stanley aoife. Decisions, decision! So difficult and a lot of hidden information to figure out. Price difference big also but wondering is it worth it??? Thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 237 ✭✭Man of Aran


    oranna wrote: »
    Hi ,
    After weeks of wrecking my head I finally decided to go with the nestor martin probably s23 but am sorely disappointed to hear they have ceased production - do you think it would be a safe bet to go ahead. All the tech talk/demo from the salesman sounds very impressive. The other option is the stanley aoife. Decisions, decision! So difficult and a lot of hidden information to figure out. Price difference big also but wondering is it worth it??? Thanks in advance.

    Not sure it's a permanent closure - have heard from several sources that it was a fire at their Franco/ Belgian plant that has led to their ( temporary?)supply issue.
    Sourcing castings from Spain in meantime from what I heard. Spare parts for either oil or sf products should be around for quite a while .


  • Registered Users Posts: 281 ✭✭Buyingcar2012


    Im a total newbie to stoves and I'd like to get one sorted fairly soon. We currently have a fireplace with mantelpiece that has a gas fire.

    The width of the opening is about 16 inches and height of about 23 inches.

    How much of a job is it to heat the water, rads etc?
    The chimney flue is open but do we have to do anything else to it?
    We'd like an insert stove - are there any particular ones you'd recommend(2 storey detached house).


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,028 ✭✭✭anthony4335


    I got a stove installed earlier this year but haven't really used it much but I have noticed that when it is going full tilt the room gets a little smokey. The issue seems to be with the fireplace surround, which is wooden. It gets very hot and I noticed that directly above the stove the varnish seems to be sweating. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and found a solution other than replacing the surround. If I do have to replace the surround what is the best type to install. Please note that I have a tv above the fireplace and would like to keep it there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 253 ✭✭Iamhere


    Great thread, we currently have an open fire and are looking to get an insert, based on the size of the room those stove calculators are telling us we need 3.8kwh, i am wondering if we should get a more than 3.8kwh?

    There is no back boiler so the insert will only be needed to heat the room it is in.

    Also are there any disadvantages of an insert over a standalone stove?


  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭dermur


    Hey there - I've recently purchased a Henley Apollo 7kw Inset Stove. I've temporarily rigged everything up to make sure it all fits as it should (stove, 500mm pipe, 5"-7" adapter) and test lit but I'm not seeing much in terms of convection.

    I'm just wondering how the convection box should work is stove temperature the only factor or do other factors affect it's function?

    For example:

    Does convection only kick in above a certain temperature?
    Does the front of the stove need to be totally sealed off from the rear of the stove for proper convection airflow?
    Would any air cavities around the convection box affect/disrupt air flow?
    Would draught up the flue affect convection performance?

    Once I have everything fitted permanently (maybe with flue liner and filling around the convection box with vermiculite) can I expect an improvement in convection performance?

    The reason I ask is that this smoke test on a convection unit appears to be pretty "open":
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GaTOIdkiZE

    Any help much appreciated - thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭dermur


    Iamhere wrote: »
    those stove calculators are telling us we need 3.8kwh, i am wondering if we should get a more than 3.8kwh?

    I'm becoming more and more convinced that there can be fairly large margins for error here...many room calculators don't take into account specifics such as the number of external walls, area covered by windows, temperature of adjoining rooms, etc.

    Add to that the fact that it seems stoves have their own margin when it comes to stated KW values (type of fuel being burned) and I think you're better off being over-spec'ed (and use less fuel) than under (and unable to heat your room adequately). I've seen 17kw and 21kw stoves on offer with the same size log box...how does that work?

    I think possibly more important is the log box size. A log box for a 3.8kw stove is likely to be so small that you'll be popping fuel into it every hour at least!

    That's just based on my own experiences so far...I defer to the experts! :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭dermur


    dermur wrote: »
    Would draught up the flue affect convection performance?

    I might be able to answer my own question here - I did a poor man's smoke test (with an incense burner!) and I can see plenty of air intake at the bottom but nothing coming out the top. Another test with a single-ply tissue paper shows airflow actually getting sucked in the top grill instead of blown out...

    I suspect the convected air may be getting drawn up the flue since I literally just slid the pieces together. I'm guessing these sections need to be completely airtight so that the convected air has no way of getting into the flue. So I think/hope that when I seal up the joints with fire cement then I'll be getting the full benefits of the convection box.

    In the meantime, if anyone can either confirm or shoot down this theory I'll be happy either way!


  • Registered Users Posts: 306 ✭✭Zane97


    So I got a guy to take my fire place out with a view to sitting the stove in a little bit. I don't intend to sit it right in. But now I'm worried about clearance to the sides. The gas pipe was already blanked by an RGI last year at the side. Looking now I have 80 mm both sides. Advice needed before I get it fitted .

    0FFB75A5-1F0D-459E-AD0F-9AE62E0A352A.jpg

    DDC39F1D-C90F-4D08-AE74-A67D0A07A1C8.jpg

    6DCD1CB0-F23D-4CC7-BDCC-1645F56F1057.jpg


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,084 ✭✭✭oppenheimer1


    I got a stove installed earlier this year but haven't really used it much but I have noticed that when it is going full tilt the room gets a little smokey. The issue seems to be with the fireplace surround, which is wooden. It gets very hot and I noticed that directly above the stove the varnish seems to be sweating. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and found a solution other than replacing the surround. If I do have to replace the surround what is the best type to install. Please note that I have a tv above the fireplace and would like to keep it there.
    You shouldn't surround a stove with combustible materials as it is a genuine fire risk. Many installers won't allow them to go in in those circumstances. I wouldn't put a TV over it either


  • Registered Users Posts: 238 ✭✭dermur


    dermur wrote: »
    I suspect the convected air may be getting drawn up the flue since I literally just slid the pieces together. I'm guessing these sections need to be completely airtight so that the convected air has no way of getting into the flue. So I think/hope that when I seal up the joints with fire cement then I'll be getting the full benefits of the convection box.

    Confirmed that this was the issue - was able to shine a torch in through the top grill and could see that the collar wasn't seated properly. In fact there was a good centimeter clearance on one side of the collar which was drawing up both convected air and air in front of the stove!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,059 ✭✭✭80s Child


    Hi folks,

    My dad just bought the Contura i4 for a room 5m × 6m x 2.4m

    Our room is 8m x 4.5m x 2.4m. From the calculators it says that we need 4.5kw stove.

    What would you recommend?

    Budget: €1000 - €1500.

    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,178 ✭✭✭k123456


    I got a stove installed earlier this year but haven't really used it much but I have noticed that when it is going full tilt the room gets a little smokey. The issue seems to be with the fireplace surround, which is wooden. It gets very hot and I noticed that directly above the stove the varnish seems to be sweating. I was wondering if anyone has experienced this and found a solution other than replacing the surround. If I do have to replace the surround what is the best type to install. Please note that I have a tv above the fireplace and would like to keep it there.

    If the wood surround is difficult to remove , you could clad the wood in stone
    which will repel most of the heat

    http://www.stonepanels.ie/stone_products/index.html

    The stone comes in panels , , very easy to attach to wood, you squeeze some bonding agent on the wood, u use one or two discreet screws, which pulls the panels tight on to the wood/bonding agent


  • Registered Users Posts: 139 ✭✭j timber


    Hi guys
    we are in the process of getting a stove.we went to look at a stanley tara in our local stockist today but unfortunately fell in love with the new range of stoves.the one which is roughly same output but new design is the ardmore.
    the problem is its a boiler and does not come in non boiler.does anyone know of any other makes in the same sort of modern look??
    on the other hand i could try and integrate into current heating system but not sure.it is a four zoned oil system. There is a manifold in the storage room above this room but not sure if u can tie into system here of if u have to go back to cylinder first?
    Any info really appreciated


  • Registered Users Posts: 283 ✭✭dm1979


    hi all, me and the OH were just talking about getting a stove to heat the house, were currently on the oil and would like to switch to a stove to heat the rads. Its a bigish house with 9 radiatiors and we were just wandering about the cost involved?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,178 ✭✭✭k123456


    dm1979 wrote: »
    hi all, me and the OH were just talking about getting a stove to heat the house, were currently on the oil and would like to switch to a stove to heat the rads. Its a bigish house with 9 radiatiors and we were just wandering about the cost involved?


    It might also be worth getting a zoned heating system in, if you are doing this


  • Registered Users Posts: 45,264 ✭✭✭✭Bobeagleburger


    k123456 wrote: »
    It might also be worth getting a zoned heating system in, if you are doing this

    How much is a zoned heating system as a matter of interest?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11 themainman2010


    Question on Stove design : Efficiency!

    All stoves seem to have the much the same efficiency but some are simple a square box and others have complex design.

    Surely the Efficiency ratings don't mean anything then? The box designs can't be as efficienent?

    I noticed most the stove you find on german websites have complex design and one's on Irish websites are square boxed!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,178 ✭✭✭k123456


    rarnes1 wrote: »
    How much is a zoned heating system as a matter of interest?

    Difficult to give you a price, as as was part of plumbing upgrade
    but we have 5 zones, all heated by the stove
    most of the time, we only have 1 or 2 zone in use, so great energy saver

    In practice, we fire up the stove, it heats one large room, approx 6 big rads there, and HW

    on hour or so before hitting the hay, heats up a third zone, (50% of the bed rooms)


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