the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder · 12-04-2019 9:55pm

had something snapped on it?

North of 32 · 14-04-2019 4:57pm

There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

Anyone have experience with this?

cletus · 14-04-2019 5:02pm

North of 32 wrote: »

There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

Anyone have experience with this?

Possibly mould release marks?

Wishbone Ash · 14-04-2019 5:46pm

North of 32 wrote: »

There are 2 vertical lines on the carbon fork of my brand new bike (both sides, one worse than the other). It definitely came from the factory like this as I've only done 30km on it, no falls, bangs, scratches etc.

When you run your finger over it there's no noticeable crease or bump. If you closed your eyes you wouldn't know it was there.

Anyone have experience with this?

I had a black carbon bike and it had lots of those type of markings. Doesn't seem to be as noticeable on lighter coloured bikes.

Eamonnator · 14-04-2019 6:02pm

My 4 year old matt black Canyon has similar marks on the top tube. To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould marks.

magicbastarder · 14-04-2019 6:03pm

Eamonnator wrote: »

To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould

does your bike smell mouldy?

North of 32 · 14-04-2019 6:07pm

I was a bit worried seeing them show up on the fork but it sounds like it's only cosmetic. I can live with that. Sent a few pictures to Canyon earlier as well and I'll see what they say.

Miklos · 15-04-2019 9:52am

I have them on my Scott along the top tube as well. It's from the manufacturing process, nothing to worry about.

LollipopJimmy · 15-04-2019 3:46pm

Can't say I would be overly pleased with the marks, for me they wouldn't pass cosmetically, structurally they'll be sound but a new bike should be mint

ED E · 15-04-2019 3:54pm

I wouldnt be happy with that either. Canyon rushing to beat the backlog?

devonp · 15-04-2019 3:58pm

Eamonnator wrote: »

My 4 year old matt black Canyon has similar marks on the top tube. To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould marks.

same here, never any probs:)

Fighting Tao · 15-04-2019 4:15pm

I have seen a lot worse on a Matt frame from Ribble.

rayman1 · 15-04-2019 4:42pm

I have 2 carbon bikes, a gloss black Giant and a matt black Cube and there are absolutely no such marks on them.
Both bought in lbs and while I realise they are cosmetic, I wouldn't have bought them with those marks. Just not good enough on a new bike.

Cee-Jay-Cee · 15-04-2019 9:30pm

I have a matt black S-Works Roubaix and under certain lights there are all sorts of patches/lines/colours in the carbon but no lines that could be attributed to the mould process.

Are the lines in identical position on both forks, are they the same distance apart and same length?

North of 32 · 15-04-2019 9:50pm

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I have a matt black S-Works Roubaix and under certain lights there are all sorts of patches/lines/colours in the carbon but no lines that could be attributed to the mould process.

Are the lines in identical position on both forks, are they the same distance apart and same length?

Not quite the same length but otherwise near-identical.

doozerie · 17-04-2019 8:30am

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

I believe that the main reason that the bike industry moved from screw-on cassettes to the current freehub design is to reduce the load on the drive side of the axle.

With screw-on cassettes, the bearings on the drive side are set very far back/in from the outer edge of the axle - they have to, since the hub is narrower to allow space for the cassette. As a consequence, there is a significant amount of axle that is not supported on the drive side, and this led to axles snapping.

With the freehub design the bearings sit much closer to the end of the axle on the drive side, I believe this has largely eliminated rear axles snapping.

Gasco · 19-04-2019 7:38pm

Gasco wrote: »

Hi
Just moved to Ultegra 11 speed after many happy years on the 10 speed version.
Have used Wipperman chains for a number of years with no issue, so decided to stick with what I know. Have an Absolute Black small ring that is just not meshing correctly with the chain, the chain works ok with the big ring.
Overall the chain is quite noisy on this set up, if the limit screws are not perfect on the rear der there is poor meshing there also.
Anyone using this combo - experience similar issues with this set up??

thanks

G'co

An "out of interest" update on this, solved the problem by installing a Shimano chain. I think the Wipperman 11 speed chain has bigger rollers. I could not get the Connex link to work with the Shimano chain. One side of the link would not fit through, the other, just about. Very frustrating, as it was not a cheap chain.

G

Type 17 · 19-04-2019 7:45pm

Keep an eye on your chain wear with the Shimano - they're very soft, and will take your cassette and rings down with them before you know it. I've heard good things about the Wipperman, but if it doesn't work with your setup, you might look at SRAM as a substitute when the Shimano wears out.

Paul_Mc1988 · 20-04-2019 7:55am

Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?

padyjoe · 20-04-2019 1:13pm

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

tomasrojo · 20-04-2019 3:23pm

doozerie wrote: »

I believe that the main reason that the bike industry moved from screw-on cassettes to the current freehub design is to reduce the load on the drive side of the axle.

With screw-on cassettes, the bearings on the drive side are set very far back/in from the outer edge of the axle - they have to, since the hub is narrower to allow space for the cassette. As a consequence, there is a significant amount of axle that is not supported on the drive side, and this led to axles snapping.

This is exactly right. I snapped a lot of rear axles carrying shopping on my old hybrid, and I've carried an awful lot of stuff on my tourer (with freehub), and never had an axle snap.

But in my freewheeling days (not as exciting as that sounds) I was able to get wheels that didn't have the freewheel built in; wasn't aware that that might have changed. Still have the tool for getting freewheels off. Was very good exercise, as it got tighter and tighter the more you cycled!

EDIT: Ah! I misunderstood; the conversation was about how you could always remove the freewheel from the wheel, but this modern wheel doesn't allow it. I think it's pretty standard to be able to remove freehubs with a big allen key though.

Gasco · 20-04-2019 9:21pm

Type 17 wrote: »

Keep an eye on your chain wear with the Shimano - they're very soft, and will take your cassette and rings down with them before you know it. I've heard good things about the Wipperman, but if it doesn't work with your setup, you might look at SRAM as a substitute when the Shimano wears out.

Thanks T17,

Will keep the chain gauge to hand.

G

Effects · 24-04-2019 10:42am

I'm looking into getting a torque wrench, anyone have any advice?

Thinking I'll go with this Rose one: https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-2-24-nm-torque-wrench-688275

I have a toolset of theirs that's always worked pretty well for me.

CramCycle · 24-04-2019 10:53am

padyjoe wrote: »

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

LollipopJimmy · 24-04-2019 10:55am

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

cletus · 24-04-2019 11:03am

CramCycle wrote: »

If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

Left hand drill bits are ideal for this

cletus · 24-04-2019 11:04am

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

magicbastarder · 24-04-2019 11:07am

anyone here ever serviced TRP hy-rd disc brakes? is it a straightforward job?

edit; weirdly, i see someone has just posted in the other maintenance thread about a similar issue. on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.

LollipopJimmy · 24-04-2019 11:36am

cletus wrote: »

Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

cletus · 24-04-2019 12:05pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)

LollipopJimmy · 24-04-2019 12:14pm

cletus wrote: »

Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)

I would tend to agree with cheaper tools. The Teng tools I would be happy to use from 6nm up. I tested my 3/8 vs a Snap-On digital torque wrench (Drool) and it was spot on

Alek · 24-04-2019 12:32pm

on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.

Never taken the caliper completely apart, but changed the oil once or twice. Pistons are not moving exactly the same on all 3 that I have, but it improved slightly when I've flushed the whole thing (from outside) with WD-40. It does not give me any functional trouble now so stopped thinking about this......

rayman1 · 25-04-2019 12:46am

How often do you clean and re grease your headset bearings?
Is it a good idea to do it to a new bike that was used a few times a week all over the winter?
I want to avoid a problem I had with another bike where the bottom Headset bearing was badly corroded and stuck in the bearing cup. The bike was 4 years old and it was the first time I had looked at the bearings. The bearing fell apart but the bearing race was corroded and stuck solid and I couldn't shift it. In the end my lbs got it out with some difficulty.

Effects · 25-04-2019 8:26pm

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them

Have you a link to the torque wrench you use?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 25-04-2019 9:24pm

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?

I use 60mm presta valves on Vittoria latex tubes on 40mm deep carbon clinchers and have approx 30mm of valve showing, I’d say you could be pushing it with 60mm wheels.

silverharp · 26-04-2019 10:31am

anything to look out for buying these sealant kits? never had one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Machine-Instant-Bicycle-Puncture-Sealant/dp/B017BMQV02/ref=sr_1_40?crid=15MUHOWX79OA3&keywords=puncture+repair+kits+for+bikes&qid=1556267326&s=gateway&sprefix=puncture%2Caps%2C356&sr=8-40

rayman1 · 27-04-2019 1:59pm

rayman1 wrote: »

How often do you clean and re grease your headset bearings?
Is it a good idea to do it to a new bike that was used a few times a week all over the winter?
I want to avoid a problem I had with another bike where the bottom Headset bearing was badly corroded and stuck in the bearing cup. The bike was 4 years old and it was the first time I had looked at the bearings. The bearing fell apart but the bearing race was corroded and stuck solid and I couldn't shift it. In the end my lbs got it out with some difficulty.

Any advice on this please?

magicbastarder · 27-04-2019 2:10pm

I'd like to say once every six months, but I guess once a year. Also depends on how much the bike has been used and in what conditions. It's not really a long job though, I did it recently with one bike and it took less than 15 mins.

Zen0 · 27-04-2019 2:18pm

I’d have to say never. I have one bike which is seven years old with 25,000km on the clock. It gets used year round sometimes in filthy conditions and it’s good so far. I may come to regret my negligence. I tend to be good at bike maintenance generally, but where headsets are concerned I have history. I remember trying to grease the bearings of a threaded headset years ago and the bearings escaped all over the kitchen floor. I tend to be a bit wary as a result.

magicbastarder · 27-04-2019 2:23pm

Also can depend on whether the bike has mudguards. Obviously the bearings are a bit better protected at the bottom of they are sheltered from the crud being thrown off the wheel.

LollipopJimmy · 29-04-2019 12:09pm

Effects wrote: »

Have you a link to the torque wrench you use?

https://www.ie.screwfix.com/teng-tools-drive-torque-wrench-858be3.html?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=CPC&utm_campaign=Shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjwwZrmBRA7EiwA4iMzBEiwawxdRLQYaL6-1gCqQs9ThtMzUrP17A-PADdYKcbKjtibN3cpBRoC9OcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Can be had cheaper if you shop around. Also for the warranty you just bring it to any Teng dealer

CramCycle · 29-04-2019 12:31pm

Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?

LollipopJimmy · 29-04-2019 12:34pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?

Some of this is best, especially if you don't run mud guards

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/muc-off-carbon-gripper/rp-prod115119

Type 17 · 29-04-2019 12:35pm

It should work fine without, once you use the correct torque (more important than using paste or not).

Deano12345 · 29-04-2019 12:59pm

CramCycle wrote: »

Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?

Like the guys have already said, it should be fine without once it isn’t torqued out of spec, I think the paste is more important when one part is carbon and the other is Alu/Steel.

That being said, I always use the paste for any carbon parts, but that’s cause it’s so cheap, Halfords sell it now for around €3 a tube!

Cee-Jay-Cee · 29-04-2019 1:14pm

Deano12345 wrote: »

Like the guys have already said, it should be fine without once it isn’t torqued out of spec, I think the paste is more important when one part is carbon and the other is Alu/Steel.

That being said, I always use the paste for any carbon parts, but that’s cause it’s so cheap, Halfords sell it now for around €3 a tube!

Carbon paste is primarily to give carbon parts additional grip. I use it on seatposts and stems (with carbon bars and steerer) You can get away with a lot less torque when it’s used.

SchrodingersCat · 29-04-2019 2:54pm

padyjoe wrote: »

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

This looks like a nice candidate for a Dremel tool. If you can get your hands on one, cut a slot in it with a grinding disk just wide enough for a flat head screwdriver. Then use the screwdriver to take it out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FENaL7fWFLM

keane2097 · 30-04-2019 10:24am

Not exactly maintenance but looks like this might be the right thread for a noob question. I have a cateye velo wireless computer that does average speed, distance etc but not cadence. I want to upgrade it to one where I can keep an eye on my cadence also.

Can anyone recommend me the cheapest, easiest unit to set up that will do the job (presume it's possible to get wireless)?

Cee-Jay-Cee · 30-04-2019 11:46am

keane2097 wrote: »

Not exactly maintenance but looks like this might be the right thread for a noob question. I have a cateye velo wireless computer that does average speed, distance etc but not cadence. I want to upgrade it to one where I can keep an eye on my cadence also.

Can anyone recommend me the cheapest, easiest unit to set up that will do the job (presume it's possible to get wireless)?

You'll pick up a Garmin Edge 500 on ebay second hand for €30-40 or cheaper and you'll need to get a Ant+ (wireless) cadence sensor to go with it.

Or if your not in any real rush, you can get the computer, speed/cadence sensor and bike mount from Aliexpress for around €35 inc delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-Bike-Speed-Cadence-Sensor-Meilan-M4-speedometer-can-connect-Bluetooth-4-0-ANT/32905435736.html

Select Option B

keane2097 · 30-04-2019 12:06pm

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

You'll pick up a Garmin Edge 500 on ebay second hand for €30-40 or cheaper and you'll need to get a Ant+ (wireless) cadence sensor to go with it.

Or if your not in any real rush, you can get the computer, speed/cadence sensor and bike mount from Aliexpress for around €35 inc delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-Bike-Speed-Cadence-Sensor-Meilan-M4-speedometer-can-connect-Bluetooth-4-0-ANT/32905435736.html

Select Option B

Thanks very much, feck it for the price difference I think I can stand to wait a couple of weeks for the Aliexpress version - hadn't even thought of looking there. Appreciate the help.

the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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