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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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    #752
    Paul_Mc1988
    Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    Macy0161 wrote:
    7 Speed cassette on an 11 Speed Hub - am I right in thinking 4.5mm spacer on top of the 8/9 speed spacer? And then adjust the limit screws? I'm thinking of having the old beater as a permanent turbo bike. It's a smart direct drive turbo, so came with the 8/9/10 speed spacer. Any reason it wouldn't work?

    Macy0161 wrote:
    In erg mode, and going on sheldon, I could probably mix and match cassette and chain with the 7 speed chainset and derailuers as I wouldn't have to change gears, but I haven't ruled out a go at zwift, which I think would require having gearing...


    If all your using is erg mode it should be fine. If free riding in zwift im not sure how accurate the shifting would be. Might as well give it a try.


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    #753
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,288 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Paul_Mc1988 wrote:
    If all your using is erg mode it should be fine. If free riding in zwift im not sure how accurate the shifting would be. Might as well give it a try.
    Ordered the cassette and spacers, so we'll see. Loving erg mode so far - only have to change gear for spin downs as I'm spinning out!


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    #754
    Paul_Mc1988
    Registered Users Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Paul_Mc1988


    Macy0161 wrote:
    Ordered the cassette and spacers, so we'll see. Loving erg mode so far - only have to change gear for spin downs as I'm spinning out!


    I love doing sweetspot training on zwift in erg mode. Boosted my fitness higher than its ever been.


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    #755
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,459 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i've just picked up a pair of zondas and a new groupset. i suspect i'll soon be putting the mb in "mb's 'no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread".


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    #756
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,459 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    so - carbon newbie here. what torque setting is typical for the bolt attaching the brake calipers to the frame?


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    #757
    Flaccus
    Registered Users Posts: 3,971 ✭✭✭Flaccus


    To degrease chain or not !!  Recently got one of those KMC DLC chains cause I like the colour :)  Now it's time to clean it and KMC say not to use degreaser especially with a chain cleaning machine.  Apparently the factory grease is injected into the bearings before the chain is assembled and this stuff can be washed away with degreaser and can never really be replaced.  I think they only recently changed the wording to 'aggressive' degreasers.   Does mucoff bio chain cleaner count as aggressive or should I stick to fairy liquid ?

    http://www.kmcchain.eu/MAINTENANCE


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    #758
    Type 17
    Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    magicbastarder wrote: »
    so - carbon newbie here. what torque setting is typical for the bolt attaching the brake calipers to the frame?

    Parts of the frame like brake calliper mounting areas will have a metal insert inside the carbon, so the torque requirements should be similar to an aluminium frame.
    The parts of a carbon frame which are torque-sensitive are those where it's not possible to have any metal inserts, and you really are clamping on carbon - typically the back of the stem (if the fork steerer is carbon), the front of the stem (if the bars are carbon) and the seat clamp.


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    #759
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,459 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    cheers - i'd figured that must be the case, but obviously wasn't going to work on that assumption without confirmation!


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    #760
    seven stars
    Registered Users Posts: 492 ✭✭seven stars


    My pressfit BB was creaking under load, so I got a press (the Lifeline one) and a removal tool (the Park Tool one) and set about replacing it. I thought I'd done a pretty good job. I cleaned the shell, and applied Loctite to the new BB, since I'd heard that's how you ensure there's no creak.

    But it didn't ensure there was no creak. In fact, the creak was worse.

    So I got a new BB, and replaced it a second time, this time using grease instead of Loctite.

    The creak isn't as bad as it was with the Loctite, but it's no better than it was to begin with. It's a road bike with a Shimano BB94 bottom bracket.

    Can anyone recommend a decent time machine so I can go back and strangle whoever invented pressfit BBs?


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    #761
    TychoCaine
    Registered Users Posts: 673 ✭✭✭TychoCaine


    seven stars wrote: »
    My pressfit BB was creaking under load, so I got a press (the Lifeline one) and a removal tool (the Park Tool one) and set about replacing it. I thought I'd done a pretty good job. I cleaned the shell, and applied Loctite to the new BB, since I'd heard that's how you ensure there's no creak.

    But it didn't ensure there was no creak. In fact, the creak was worse.

    So I got a new BB, and replaced it a second time, this time using grease instead of Loctite.

    The creak isn't as bad as it was with the Loctite, but it's no better than it was to begin with. It's a road bike with a Shimano BB94 bottom bracket.

    Can anyone recommend a decent time machine so I can go back and strangle whoever invented pressfit BBs?
    I'm considering fitting a Wheels Manufacturing Threaded PF30 BB when the time comes to replace my PF30 BB. The two sides screw together to clamp the BB into the frame, hopefully creak-free.


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    #762
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    seven stars wrote: »
    My pressfit BB was creaking under load, so I got a press (the Lifeline one) and a removal tool (the Park Tool one) and set about replacing it. I thought I'd done a pretty good job. I cleaned the shell, and applied Loctite to the new BB, since I'd heard that's how you ensure there's no creak.

    But it didn't ensure there was no creak. In fact, the creak was worse.

    So I got a new BB, and replaced it a second time, this time using grease instead of Loctite.

    The creak isn't as bad as it was with the Loctite, but it's no better than it was to begin with. It's a road bike with a Shimano BB94 bottom bracket.

    Can anyone recommend a decent time machine so I can go back and strangle whoever invented pressfit BBs?


    Are you sure its the BB and not the chainring bolts????


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    #763
    seven stars
    Registered Users Posts: 492 ✭✭seven stars


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »
    Are you sure its the BB and not the chainring bolts????

    I'm not completely sure, so that's worth investigating. But the creak got much worse with BB#2, and then reverted to its previous level with BB#3. So I'm inclined to think it's the BB installation rather than chainring bolts.


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    #764
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    seven stars wrote: »
    I'm not completely sure, so that's worth investigating. But the creak got much worse with BB#2, and then reverted to its previous level with BB#3. So I'm inclined to think it's the BB installation rather than chainring bolts.

    But if the creak is caused by the bolts...the creak will remain regardless of the number of BB's replaced. It could also be the pedals?


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    #765
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,459 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    could be the headset. could be the spokes...


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    #766
    seven stars
    Registered Users Posts: 492 ✭✭seven stars


    07Lapierre wrote: »
    But if the creak is caused by the bolts...the creak will remain regardless of the number of BB's replaced. It could also be the pedals?

    What I'm saying is that the creak actually got worse when I changed the BB. And then improved slightly when I changed it again. I don't see how this would be possible if it was something else causing it, like chainring bolts or headset or pedals. If it was, you'd expect that changing the BB would have no impact on the creak.

    It definitely feels and sounds like a BB installation issue.


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    #767
    [Deleted User]
    Posts: 0 ✭ [Deleted User]


    GCN are worth a look

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUrwwrygfc4


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEiIFbIklJg


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    #768
    07Lapierre
    Registered Users Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭07Lapierre


    seven stars wrote: »
    What I'm saying is that the creak actually got worse when I changed the BB. And then improved slightly when I changed it again. I don't see how this would be possible if it was something else causing it, like chainring bolts or headset or pedals. If it was, you'd expect that changing the BB would have no impact on the creak.

    It definitely feels and sounds like a BB installation issue.

    Fair enough, your probably right...it's just you've changed the BB 3 times now so if it was me, I'd start considering other possible causes.

    I've had lots of creaks/squeaks/ knocking noises etc. And none of them were the BB itself. Pedals, cranks, wheels, headsets...they can all creak and they all sound like they are coming from the BB.


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    #769
    magicbastarder
    Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,459 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i've had creaks from 3 different areas in the last few years (talking about the bike only here); BB (needed tightening); rear hub, and at the spoke nipples on the rim.


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    #770
    dahat
    Registered Users Posts: 16,642 ✭✭✭✭dahat


    Not really bike maintenance but it may require an adjustment....

    I'm getting friction on one side only so trying to get to the root cause of it.

    Could dropping the saddle 5mm possibly help?


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    #771
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,288 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Loose cleats was one of my "BB" creaks...


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    #772
    smacl
    Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 15,719 Mod ✭✭✭✭smacl


    Replaced a creaking BB last week (not press fit) and while it solved the problem, the BB that came out didn't look to damaged so it could have been a tightening issue. Probably obvious, but did you thoroughly clean the hole in the frame prior to putting the new BB in, as any small amount of gunk or sediment there could cause the problem. As others have said, worth checking the chain bolts and putting a different set of pedals on to eliminate them from the equation.


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    #773
    outfox
    Registered Users Posts: 942 ✭✭✭outfox


    What's the consensus on front wheel skewer arrangement on disc brake bikes? Lever on left or right?
    I've mine on the right, to 'balance' the disc, but I've spotted a few bikes lately with the lever on the left. This arguably looks better, given that the rear skewer lever is always on the left.


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    #774
    joey100
    Registered Users Posts: 3,421 ✭✭✭joey100


    What's the best way to figure out what BB a crank is? Have an old power2max power meter I forgot I had, on a set of rotor 3d+ cranks, I think it's for BB30 but not 100% sure. Any tips on how to figure it out??


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    #775
    ridelikeaturtle
    Registered Users Posts: 312 ✭✭ridelikeaturtle


    outfox wrote: »
    What's the consensus on front wheel skewer arrangement on disc brake bikes? Lever on left or right?
    I've mine on the right, to 'balance' the disc, but I've spotted a few bikes lately with the lever on the left. This arguably looks better, given that the rear skewer lever is always on the left.

    I'd always have the front wheel's lever on the left, to match the rear, which is always on the left to be opposite the drivetrain (and not be in the way of the rear derailleur).


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    #776
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,486 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    ridelikeaturtle wrote: »
    I'd always have the front wheel's lever on the left, to match the rear, which is always on the left to be opposite the drivetrain (and not be in the way of the rear derailleur).

    I have always had them opposite, I dislike them on the same side although I see no reason not too.


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    #777
    Macy0161
    Registered Users Posts: 9,288 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    Following on from all the dynamo talk - I'm not missing anything in thinking that a 28" wheel will fit a road bike? Minimum recommended tyres are in the range of what I have had fitted in the past (1.1inch, which is 28mm)?


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    #778
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Dropped the bike to to my LBS, first time using them, needed a cassette and chain I mentioned it should be a 116 link Shimano HG-X chain but they fitted a 114 link Sram chain now I've some slippage on the front and the chain drops onto the lower ring under load. LBS is recommending replacing the chain rings on the front now saying the chain doesn't matter, bike has about 5k kms on it should the chainrings last longer? I'm thinking put the correct chain on it first then lets see about the chain rings?


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    #779
    CramCycle
    Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,486 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Put the chain into large front and large back and see what strain the derailleur is under. It sounds more like the chain is too long rather than a chain issue. SRAM chains are my preference over Shimano but that's a personal thing. I think they last better but pretty sure its all in my head.


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    #780
    tnegun
    Registered Users Posts: 1,724 ✭✭✭tnegun


    Its almost horizontal in that position


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    #781
    seven stars
    Registered Users Posts: 492 ✭✭seven stars


    tnegun wrote: »
    Dropped the bike to to my LBS, first time using them, needed a cassette and chain I mentioned it should be a 116 link Shimano HG-X chain but they fitted a 114 link Sram chain now I've some slippage on the front and the chain drops onto the lower ring under load. LBS is recommending replacing the chain rings on the front now saying the chain doesn't matter, bike has about 5k kms on it should the chainrings last longer? I'm thinking put the correct chain on it first then lets see about the chain rings?

    I'm certainly no expert, so hopefully you get a better response from someone else. But I thought SRAM and Shimano chains were completely interchangeable, so I wouldn't have a massive issue with what they've done there. In fact, SRAM have a magic link or powerlink or whatever they call it, making it easier to work with.

    In terms of the number of links, if there's slippage with 114, you'd expect it to be worse with 116, no? It's certainly true that a brand new chain (even with the correct number of links) on a worn cassette or chainrings can cause problems.


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