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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

is there a simple list of chemicals which you should not get near disc brake pads? i.e. would even something like a detergent cause issues with contamination; i was wondering as i was cleaning the bike earlier if i can be overcautious in cleaning the bike near the brakes.

any tips on looking after a steel frame? my latest purchase has mountings for racks and also a couple of unthreaded holes - should i tape those up to keep water out, or leave them uncovered to let the water out should it get in?

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silverharp

anything to look out for buying these sealant kits? never had one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Machine-Instant-Bicycle-Puncture-Sealant/dp/B017BMQV02/ref=sr_1_40?crid=15MUHOWX79OA3&keywords=puncture+repair+kits+for+bikes&qid=1556267326&s=gateway&sprefix=puncture%2Caps%2C356&sr=8-40

Cee-Jay-Cee

Paul_Mc1988 wrote: »

Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?

I use 60mm presta valves on Vittoria latex tubes on 40mm deep carbon clinchers and have approx 30mm of valve showing, I’d say you could be pushing it with 60mm wheels.

Effects

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them

Have you a link to the torque wrench you use?

rayman1

How often do you clean and re grease your headset bearings?
Is it a good idea to do it to a new bike that was used a few times a week all over the winter?
I want to avoid a problem I had with another bike where the bottom Headset bearing was badly corroded and stuck in the bearing cup. The bike was 4 years old and it was the first time I had looked at the bearings. The bearing fell apart but the bearing race was corroded and stuck solid and I couldn't shift it. In the end my lbs got it out with some difficulty.

Alek

on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.

Never taken the caliper completely apart, but changed the oil once or twice. Pistons are not moving exactly the same on all 3 that I have, but it improved slightly when I've flushed the whole thing (from outside) with WD-40. It does not give me any functional trouble now so stopped thinking about this......

LollipopJimmy

cletus wrote: »

Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)

I would tend to agree with cheaper tools. The Teng tools I would be happy to use from 6nm up. I tested my 3/8 vs a Snap-On digital torque wrench (Drool) and it was spot on

cletus

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)

LollipopJimmy

cletus wrote: »

Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.

magicbastarder

anyone here ever serviced TRP hy-rd disc brakes? is it a straightforward job?

edit; weirdly, i see someone has just posted in the other maintenance thread about a similar issue. on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.

cletus

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

Left hand drill bits are ideal for this

LollipopJimmy

I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.

CramCycle

padyjoe wrote: »

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?

Effects

I'm looking into getting a torque wrench, anyone have any advice?

Thinking I'll go with this Rose one: https://www.rosebikes.com/rose-2-24-nm-torque-wrench-688275

I have a toolset of theirs that's always worked pretty well for me.

Gasco

Type 17 wrote: »

Keep an eye on your chain wear with the Shimano - they're very soft, and will take your cassette and rings down with them before you know it. I've heard good things about the Wipperman, but if it doesn't work with your setup, you might look at SRAM as a substitute when the Shimano wears out.

Thanks T17,

Will keep the chain gauge to hand.

G

tomasrojo

doozerie wrote: »

I believe that the main reason that the bike industry moved from screw-on cassettes to the current freehub design is to reduce the load on the drive side of the axle.

With screw-on cassettes, the bearings on the drive side are set very far back/in from the outer edge of the axle - they have to, since the hub is narrower to allow space for the cassette. As a consequence, there is a significant amount of axle that is not supported on the drive side, and this led to axles snapping.

This is exactly right. I snapped a lot of rear axles carrying shopping on my old hybrid, and I've carried an awful lot of stuff on my tourer (with freehub), and never had an axle snap.

But in my freewheeling days (not as exciting as that sounds) I was able to get wheels that didn't have the freewheel built in; wasn't aware that that might have changed. Still have the tool for getting freewheels off. Was very good exercise, as it got tighter and tighter the more you cycled!

EDIT: Ah! I misunderstood; the conversation was about how you could always remove the freewheel from the wheel, but this modern wheel doesn't allow it. I think it's pretty standard to be able to remove freehubs with a big allen key though.

padyjoe

Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw?

I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike.
Thanks!

Paul_Mc1988

Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?

Type 17

Keep an eye on your chain wear with the Shimano - they're very soft, and will take your cassette and rings down with them before you know it. I've heard good things about the Wipperman, but if it doesn't work with your setup, you might look at SRAM as a substitute when the Shimano wears out.

Gasco

Gasco wrote: »

Hi
Just moved to Ultegra 11 speed after many happy years on the 10 speed version.
Have used Wipperman chains for a number of years with no issue, so decided to stick with what I know. Have an Absolute Black small ring that is just not meshing correctly with the chain, the chain works ok with the big ring.
Overall the chain is quite noisy on this set up, if the limit screws are not perfect on the rear der there is poor meshing there also.
Anyone using this combo - experience similar issues with this set up??

thanks

G'co

An "out of interest" update on this, solved the problem by installing a Shimano chain. I think the Wipperman 11 speed chain has bigger rollers. I could not get the Connex link to work with the Shimano chain. One side of the link would not fit through, the other, just about. Very frustrating, as it was not a cheap chain.

G

doozerie

Charman921 wrote: »

Recently the pedals on my bike started to 'slip'. I knew immediately it was something to do with the cassette on the rear wheel. I brought the bike to the bike shop (one I've used for 10 years) and they inform me that the 'body' of the cassette has worn out but to replace it, the entire wheel has to be replaced. That's because the body is part of the hub on the rear wheel.

I'm now a pensioner but I raced almost 50 years' ago. Those days if the cassette (the 'block' as we called it then) gave trouble, you had a tool with which you could unscrew the block off the hub and replace it with another. Indeed it was even possible to repair the block in maany circumstances.

Now, we are in the 'use-once-and-dispose' era. Which, as far as I'm concerned is a step back, not a step forward in cycling technology.

A decent modern cassette, if that's all that's needed, costs about €60. A new rear wheel costs from €100 to €250, for a decent 'sportive' wheel

I believe that the main reason that the bike industry moved from screw-on cassettes to the current freehub design is to reduce the load on the drive side of the axle.

With screw-on cassettes, the bearings on the drive side are set very far back/in from the outer edge of the axle - they have to, since the hub is narrower to allow space for the cassette. As a consequence, there is a significant amount of axle that is not supported on the drive side, and this led to axles snapping.

With the freehub design the bearings sit much closer to the end of the axle on the drive side, I believe this has largely eliminated rear axles snapping.

North of 32

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I have a matt black S-Works Roubaix and under certain lights there are all sorts of patches/lines/colours in the carbon but no lines that could be attributed to the mould process.

Are the lines in identical position on both forks, are they the same distance apart and same length?

Not quite the same length but otherwise near-identical.

Cee-Jay-Cee

I have a matt black S-Works Roubaix and under certain lights there are all sorts of patches/lines/colours in the carbon but no lines that could be attributed to the mould process.

Are the lines in identical position on both forks, are they the same distance apart and same length?

rayman1

I have 2 carbon bikes, a gloss black Giant and a matt black Cube and there are absolutely no such marks on them.
Both bought in lbs and while I realise they are cosmetic, I wouldn't have bought them with those marks. Just not good enough on a new bike.

Fighting Tao

I have seen a lot worse on a Matt frame from Ribble.

devonp

Eamonnator wrote: »

My 4 year old matt black Canyon has similar marks on the top tube. To be honest, I've never given them much thought, always assumed they were mould marks.

same here, never any probs:)

ED E

I wouldnt be happy with that either. Canyon rushing to beat the backlog?

LollipopJimmy

Can't say I would be overly pleased with the marks, for me they wouldn't pass cosmetically, structurally they'll be sound but a new bike should be mint

Miklos

I have them on my Scott along the top tube as well. It's from the manufacturing process, nothing to worry about.

North of 32

I was a bit worried seeing them show up on the fork but it sounds like it's only cosmetic. I can live with that. Sent a few pictures to Canyon earlier as well and I'll see what they say.