the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

cdaly_

Type 17 wrote: »

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too.

This is very much not so. The rim wears due to friction from brake pads (and any dirt embedded in the pads). The spokes and hub are likely fine. Replacing a rim is not that hard of a task but it takes proper learning and practice. Roger Musson's Professional Guide to Wheel Building is a super resource for this.

CramCycle

cdaly_ wrote: »

This is very much not so. The rim wears due to friction from brake pads (and any dirt embedded in the pads). The spokes and hub are likely fine. Replacing a rim is not that hard of a task but it takes proper learning and practice. Roger Musson's Professional Guide to Wheel Building is a super resource for this.

I suppose what the others are saying is that for cheap stock wheels, it may be just as cheap when you add in labour, time etc. If I thought the hub was good, I'd replace the rim, have had several stock wheels that have lasted a few years but the hubs always knackered before the rim. If the poster thinks the hubs are in good nick, I'd replace with a solid rim like a Mavic CXP33 but depends on your budget and practicalities.

cletus

MojoMaker wrote: »

Re: the creaking sounds from mirrormatrix and cleatus. Are you running press fit bottom brackets? hateful things...

Creaking on one side only, creaking when climbing or stomping, little or no noise when spinning?

My bottom bracket is an FSA BB-7420.

From what I can tell, this is not press fit

Miklos

Not exactly maintenance related, but I’m wondering if my 10 speed equipped winter bike will play nice with my 11 speed equipped Wahoo Kickr? Any ideas?

TychoCaine

Miklos wrote: »

Not exactly maintenance related, but I’m wondering if my 10 speed equipped winter bike will play nice with my 11 speed equipped Wahoo Kickr? Any ideas?

Not really for a number of reasons, but the main one is a 10s chain is too wide for an 11s cassette and will snag/rub on the next cog inboard.

Miklos

TychoCaine wrote: »

Not really for a number of reasons, but the main one is a 10s chain is too wide for an 11s cassette and will snag/rub on the next cog inboard.

Thanks! I’ll swap the cassette out so.

setanta74

Any tips on how to get your tube to fit evenly inside a very tight tyre? Got new tyre a few months back fitted in the bike shop. Got puncture last week when I ploughed into a pot hole at the back of a small group (they never called it but I take full responsibility).

Changed out tube with a lot of difficulty. The tyre was supertight around the rim. End result was a tyre bulge that led to a bumpy ride home.
So at the weekend I took out the tube again and tried my best to get an even fit with no bumps. Again it was difficult getting tyre back off and on again. Now no matter what I try I cant seem to get the tyre fitting evenly around the rim and it rises slightly in one area no matter how many times I try to smooth out the tube and fit the tyre correctly. Its driving me nuts.

The rim doesn't seem to be damaged in any way. I just want my wheel perfect again. What am I doing wrong?

EDit

Decided to change handlebars on road bike. Any suggestions what to use on parts where Alu stem meets Alu bars and also on stem bolts?

I already have fiber grip (seems more for carbon fittings) and anti-seize (seems more for pedals and drivetrain components), but can easily pick up other stuff if needed.

Thanks

CrowdedHouse

Canyon recommend Loctite blue threadlock on the stem bolts and a dab of the carbon paste on the face of the stem won't do any harm either.

07Lapierre

EDit wrote: »

Decided to change handlebars on road bike. Any suggestions what to use on parts where Alu stem meets Alu bars and also on stem bolts?

I already have fiber grip (seems more for carbon fittings) and anti-seize (seems more for pedals and drivetrain components), but can easily pick up other stuff if needed.

Thanks

General purpose/multi purpose grease.

CramCycle

setanta74 wrote: »

Any tips on how to get your tube to fit evenly inside a very tight tyre? Got new tyre a few months back fitted in the bike shop. Got puncture last week when I ploughed into a pot hole at the back of a small group (they never called it but I take full responsibility).

Changed out tube with a lot of difficulty. The tyre was supertight around the rim. End result was a tyre bulge that led to a bumpy ride home.
So at the weekend I took out the tube again and tried my best to get an even fit with no bumps. Again it was difficult getting tyre back off and on again. Now no matter what I try I cant seem to get the tyre fitting evenly around the rim and it rises slightly in one area no matter how many times I try to smooth out the tube and fit the tyre correctly. Its driving me nuts.

Could you slightly iunflate the tube before pushing it in to place, I found that helps on occasion. the tube could just be faulty though.

EDit wrote: »

Decided to change handlebars on road bike. Any suggestions what to use on parts where Alu stem meets Alu bars and also on stem bolts?

I already have fiber grip (seems more for carbon fittings) and anti-seize (seems more for pedals and drivetrain components), but can easily pick up other stuff if needed.

Thanks

Nothing for the Alu bar meeting stem, maybe a dab of grease on the stem bolts and sin

magicbastarder

setanta74 wrote: »

Changed out tube with a lot of difficulty. The tyre was supertight around the rim. End result was a tyre bulge that led to a bumpy ride home.
So at the weekend I took out the tube again and tried my best to get an even fit with no bumps. Again it was difficult getting tyre back off and on again. Now no matter what I try I cant seem to get the tyre fitting evenly around the rim and it rises slightly in one area no matter how many times I try to smooth out the tube and fit the tyre correctly. Its driving me nuts.

try soapy water - it might lubricate the bead enough to allow it to slide into place and seat properly. has worked a couple of times for me.

07Lapierre

setanta74 wrote: »

Any tips on how to get your tube to fit evenly inside a very tight tyre?

Ensure the tube is inflated (just enough to hold its shape) before you fit it. As you pull the tyre on, the air pressure in the tube increases, so deflate the tube bit by bit as you fit the tyre. When you get to the last bit of tyre, the tube should still have enough air in it that it still hold its shape and pull the tyre onto the rim. this ensures the tube is not pinched between the tyre and the wheel rim.

setanta74

Thanks folks. I will try a different tube first and then if no joy move onto the soapy water. Already did the partial inflation but didn't try deflating it a bit again so will give them all a go. I know the tube is a cheap Halfords one so maybe its just a dud.

07Lapierre

setanta74 wrote: »

Thanks folks. I will try a different tube first and then if no joy move onto the soapy water. Already did the partial inflation but didn't try deflating it a bit again so will give them all a go. I know the tube is a cheap Halfords one so maybe its just a dud.

Make sure you push the valve up into the tyre too... if you don't the tyre sits on top of the tube and it makes it very difficult to get the last bit of tyre onto the rim. this will also give you the "Bulge" you describe in your OP.

Type 17

If the tyre has a steel bead (ie: not a folding tyre), it can end up slightly distorted from using tyre levers to remove it previously (especially if it's a tight fit on the rim) - this can lead to high/low spots.
If it always happens in the same area of the tyre, remove it from the rim and gently re-shape the bead to fit the rim better.

Other issues can be (as mentioned above) poor seating around the valve, over-inflation of the tube, using too wide a tube for the tyre or even poorly fitted or cheap (too thick) rim tape.

c.p.w.g.w

Adjusting saddle tilt.

Trying to adjust my saddle tilt, I'd like the nose to be slightly tilted downwards. But I can't seem to get it beyond level.

I have included a picture of my seat post, I can't find any videos online that use the same searpost, saddle fitting as mine

CramCycle

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Adjusting saddle tilt.

Trying to adjust my saddle tilt, I'd like the nose to be slightly tilted downwards. But I can't seem to get it beyond level.

I have included a picture of my seat post, I can't find any videos online that use the same searpost, saddle fitting as mine

Possibly groves holding it, make sure it is very loose and you pull up the bottom of the clamp away from the seatpost. It looks like you are moving the top of the clamp but not the bottom.

magicbastarder

yep, there's two adjustments - sliding the saddle forwards and backwards inside the clamp, which will have a minor effect on the seat tilt, and as CramCycle mentions, moving the clamp itself - in the photo above, the clamp assembly (to and bottom plate, and bolt) should be able to pivot forward (counter clockwise in that photo), levelling the seat.

c.p.w.g.w

magicbastarder wrote: »

yep, there's two adjustments - sliding the saddle forwards and backwards inside the clamp, which will have a minor effect on the seat tilt, and as CramCycle mentions, moving the clamp itself - in the photo above, the clamp assembly (to and bottom plate, and bolt) should be able to pivot forward (counter clockwise in that photo), levelling the seat.

Bottom part of clamp is fixed to seatpost I think. Can't remember seeing a bolt. Well check when I get home later. The tilt is fine out on the road, it's just on the turbo I am having issues

CramCycle

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

Bottom part of clamp is fixed to seatpost I think. Can't remember seeing a bolt. Well check when I get home later. The tilt is fine out on the road, it's just on the turbo I am having issues

It shouldn't be if it is what I think it is. Loosen the bolts till they are almost about to fall out. You should be able to lift the bottom part of the clamp up. It may need a tap if its not been done in awhile, but looking at that pic, if you can't slide the clamp, then you won't be able to adjust the tilt.

c.p.w.g.w

CramCycle wrote: »

It shouldn't be if it is what I think it is. Loosen the bolts till they are almost about to fall out. You should be able to lift the bottom part of the clamp up. It may need a tap if its not been done in awhile, but looking at that pic, if you can't slide the clamp, then you won't be able to adjust the tilt.

You were correct. Got the saddle sorted, very much appreciated. I won't lie to you, i was losing sleep over it last night...My head was wrecked:eek:

CramCycle

c.p.w.g.w wrote: »

You were correct.

What is rare is wonderful.

Wishbone Ash

I seem to be getting less and less distance from KMC chains on my single speed commuter. Changed it again today and was surprised to see it had only lasted 1,000kms. I thought it was bad when I was getting 3-4,000kms per chain.

I would have thought a heavy single speed chain which does not have to move laterally would last much longer (considering I get about 5,000kms out of the 10 speed chains on the other bikes).

The commuter bike has full mudguards and mudflaps fitted all year round, and the chain is lubed regularly (albeit not degreased as often as the normal road chains).

Type 17

Is the chain-line exactly straight? - otherwise it's like cross-chaining all the time

Wishbone Ash

Type 17 wrote: »

Is the chain-line exactly straight? - otherwise it's like cross-chaining all the time

To the naked eye it appears in a straight line. (The rear wheel has just just reached the end of it's life so perhaps there's a connection?).

triggermortis

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

To the naked eye it appears in a straight line. (The rear wheel has just just reached the end of it's life so perhaps there's a connection?).

Obviously, it's time for a new bike then

CramCycle

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I seem to be getting less and less distance from KMC chains on my single speed commuter. Changed it again today and was surprised to see it had only lasted 1,000kms. I thought it was bad when I was getting 3-4,000kms per chain.

I would have thought a heavy single speed chain which does not have to move laterally would last much longer (considering I get about 5,000kms out of the 10 speed chains on the other bikes).

The commuter bike has full mudguards and mudflaps fitted all year round, and the chain is lubed regularly (albeit not degreased as often as the normal road chains).

Haven't much on my Fixed gear but my last chain lasted a few years of racing and daily commuting and barely looked touched. Think it was KMC. Got north of 20000km on it.

saccades

Wishbone Ash wrote: »

I seem to be getting less and less distance from KMC chains on my single speed commuter. Changed it again today and was surprised to see it had only lasted 1,000kms. I thought it was bad when I was getting 3-4,000kms per chain.

I would have thought a heavy single speed chain which does not have to move laterally would last much longer (considering I get about 5,000kms out of the 10 speed chains on the other bikes).

The commuter bike has full mudguards and mudflaps fitted all year round, and the chain is lubed regularly (albeit not degreased as often as the normal road chains).

What exactly do you mean by less distance?

SS is so cheap you run it into the ground, no pissing about with a chain checker.

I used whipperman chains, both on my flipflop SS and igh (Mtb & CX thing), less then a tenner and lasted 20k plus.

Wishbone Ash

saccades wrote: »

What exactly do you mean by less distance?

I thought what I meant was quite obvious - i.e that the chain seems to require changing more frequently than before. It has only done 1,000kms since I last changed it.

saccades wrote:

.....SS is so cheap you run it into the ground, no pissing about with a chain checker..

I'd prefer not to have it snap during a ride or when out of the saddle. Not a pleasant experience, hence the reason I change it when the chain checker indicates that it requires changing. Perhaps I'm being over cautious.