the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle

Weepsie wrote: »

I'm assuming this is a no but:

I've a bike that's currently set up with a Compact 50/34 crankset and an 11-32 cassette. The RD is basically at it's limit as it's a Tiagra 4601 (long cage) and it's listed as 30t maximum.

However, if I wished to change the front to a 48/32 or 46/30, will that offset anything and allow me to change to an 11-34 at the back? I basically want to be able to get up a vertical wall!

So your new front set up has still a 16t gap, your rear cassette has a 23t gap. Your 9t over the limit by your reckoning but a quick google says the capacity on a Tiagra 10 speed GS derailleur is 40t, not 30t.

Weepsie

Sorry max sprocket is listed as 30t. I had that wrong and ignored capacity due to always getting confused (though I realise now it's simple).

I'd be pushing my luck with an 11-36 in the 48/32 set up though. 11-34 with a 48/32 sounds like it'ts worth a go anyway.

CramCycle

Weepsie wrote: »

Sorry max sprocket is listed as 30t. I had that wrong and ignored capacity due to always getting confused (though I realise now it's simple).

I'd be pushing my luck with an 11-36 in the 48/32 set up though. 11-34 with a 48/32 sounds like it'ts worth a go anyway.

I'd say the 32 is doable as they always have excess built in, 34 I imagine would be cutting it very close, no hope of a 36.

mirrormatrix

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Macy0161

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Headset is my next port of call.

When I was getting something similar earlier in the year, on my carbon bike, it was the headset.

cletus

I have a small issue on my bike. When in the highest gear, I get a clicking noise on the downstroke of the right pedal, but only if im putting pressure down, not if I'm just maintaining speed

CramCycle

cletus wrote: »

I have a small issue on my bike. When in the highest gear, I get a clicking noise on the downstroke of the right pedal, but only if im putting pressure down, not if I'm just maintaining speed

Derailleur not aligned properly? Crankset or chainrings slightly (almost unnoticeably) loose?

brianomc

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Take the seatpost out, wipe it clean, regrease (with clean gloves/hands) and put it back in. A small bit of grit can get in and make that clicking sound. Usually when putting extra effort in too so it sounds a lot like this could be your issue.

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

Derailleur not aligned properly? Crankset or chainrings slightly (almost unnoticeably) loose?

Thanks for the reply CramCycle. I had the derailleur adjusted, and checked the chain rings myself. How would I go go about tightening the crankset

mirrormatrix

brianomc wrote: »

Take the seatpost out, wipe it clean, regrease (with clean gloves/hands) and put it back in. A small bit of grit can get in and make that clicking sound. Usually when putting extra effort in too so it sounds a lot like this could be your issue.

Thanks. You might well be right. Will give this a go this evening.

CramCycle

cletus wrote: »

Thanks for the reply CramCycle. I had the derailleur adjusted, and checked the chain rings myself. How would I go go about tightening the crankset

Grab the pedal end of the crank and see is there any play in it. back and forth. If your derailleur is close, it maybe the added weight in the downstroke rubbing it?

Also is it one click per rotation or multiple creaks?

magicbastarder

someone really needs to write an app which will record the click/creak, and diagnose it via scientific jiggery-pokery.

cletus

CramCycle wrote: »

Grab the pedal end of the crank and see is there any play in it. back and forth. If your derailleur is close, it maybe the added weight in the downstroke rubbing it?

Also is it one click per rotation or multiple creaks?

Couple of quick ticks

CramCycle

cletus wrote: »

Couple of quick ticks

This is all guesswork but it may just be the outer bit of the chainlinks rubbing the derailleur when it is under pressure. If the crankset is in no way loose, then it could just be the derailleur is a mm to close to the chainring.

Budawanny

Hi Lads, not strictly a maintenance question but kind of..
my rear rim on my commuter is gone quite a bit concave from wear (hybrid, giant escape 0).
just wondering would it be common to ask the LBS to replace the rim? ive spoken to a few guys about replacing the wheel but they never mention just replacing the rim so im wondering am i being dopey :-)
cheers

CramCycle

Budawanny wrote: »

Hi Lads, not strictly a maintenance question but kind of..
my rear rim on my commuter is gone quite a bit concave from wear (hybrid, giant escape 0).
just wondering would it be common to ask the LBS to replace the rim? ive spoken to a few guys about replacing the wheel but they never mention just replacing the rim so im wondering am i being dopey :-)
cheers

Perfectly doable, not sure how many would but there are a few.

Type 17

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too. Probably the onlty time it’s wirth it is if it’s a new, expensive wheel and the rim gets damaged in an accident.

magicbastarder

unless it's a particularly good wheel, it might be cheaper to replace the entire wheel than stick a new rim on the hub and rebuild it?

Budawanny

magicbastarder wrote: »

unless it's a particularly good wheel, it might be cheaper to replace the entire wheel than stick a new rim on the hub and rebuild it?

that's a good point. its not particularly good at all, factory wheel that came with the bike, circa 8 years old now..

thanks!
ill look into buying a wheel .

Budawanny

Type 17 wrote: »

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too. Probably the onlty time it’s wirth it is if it’s a new, expensive wheel and the rim gets damaged in an accident.

Nice one, thanks. new wheel it is.

Budawanny

CramCycle wrote: »

Perfectly doable, not sure how many would but there are a few.

thanks

brownian

mirrormatrix wrote: »

Have a rather annoying click that I can't track down. Only happens periodically (i.e. not on every pedal rotation). Usually only happens when i'm pushing the pace or climbing. It sometimes happens when I sit back in the saddle after sprint, but have regreased/tightened all bolts there to no avail. Any ideas on common issues to check? Headset is my next port of call.

Headset, saddle, pedals. I had one for ages that turned out to be my saddle.

MacAttackJ

Good morning all. I currently have Continental Cyclocross Speed Bike Tyres (700c, 35c) on my Ridgeback Flight. Whilst not actually Cyclocross tyres (bit of marketing there), I am happy with how they handle on my daily commute. The problem with them is they wear down quite quickly and I need to replace again having suffered a few punctures of late. What I am looking for is a Gatorskin style, puncture resistant, good grip tyre that comes in size 35. Looking at Gatorskins, they are all either of the slick variety or don’t come in 35’s. Any ideas? Many thanks.

seamus

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/schwalbe-marathon-touring-tyre-greenguard/rp-prod69133

****ing great tyre. Been using exclusively them on my commuter for nearly a decade now. I can count the number of punctures in that time on one hand.

MojoMaker

Re: the creaking sounds from mirrormatrix and cleatus. Are you running press fit bottom brackets? hateful things...

Creaking on one side only, creaking when climbing or stomping, little or no noise when spinning?

cdaly_

Type 17 wrote: »

It’s usually cheaper to buy a new wheel than have a new rim laced onto the existing one, and if it’s got enough km to wear out the rim, the hub and spokes are probably worn out too.

This is very much not so. The rim wears due to friction from brake pads (and any dirt embedded in the pads). The spokes and hub are likely fine. Replacing a rim is not that hard of a task but it takes proper learning and practice. Roger Musson's Professional Guide to Wheel Building is a super resource for this.

CramCycle

cdaly_ wrote: »

This is very much not so. The rim wears due to friction from brake pads (and any dirt embedded in the pads). The spokes and hub are likely fine. Replacing a rim is not that hard of a task but it takes proper learning and practice. Roger Musson's Professional Guide to Wheel Building is a super resource for this.

I suppose what the others are saying is that for cheap stock wheels, it may be just as cheap when you add in labour, time etc. If I thought the hub was good, I'd replace the rim, have had several stock wheels that have lasted a few years but the hubs always knackered before the rim. If the poster thinks the hubs are in good nick, I'd replace with a solid rim like a Mavic CXP33 but depends on your budget and practicalities.

cletus

MojoMaker wrote: »

Re: the creaking sounds from mirrormatrix and cleatus. Are you running press fit bottom brackets? hateful things...

Creaking on one side only, creaking when climbing or stomping, little or no noise when spinning?

My bottom bracket is an FSA BB-7420.

From what I can tell, this is not press fit

Miklos

Not exactly maintenance related, but I’m wondering if my 10 speed equipped winter bike will play nice with my 11 speed equipped Wahoo Kickr? Any ideas?

TychoCaine

Miklos wrote: »

Not exactly maintenance related, but I’m wondering if my 10 speed equipped winter bike will play nice with my 11 speed equipped Wahoo Kickr? Any ideas?

Not really for a number of reasons, but the main one is a 10s chain is too wide for an 11s cassette and will snag/rub on the next cog inboard.