padyjoe wrote: » Any idea how to get this screw out? Its head snapped off, I didn't even notice for a while. Or keep riding with 1 screw? I feel like it's not worth the hassle, it's upgrade time for something sleeker like A530 or XT M8020. Using these on a roadbike. Thanks!
CramCycle wrote: » If you have a drill, make sure its spinning the right way and try and drill it out, if it loosens, it will spin out, if ti doesn't, you may have more space to get a pliers to it?
LollipopJimmy wrote: » I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them, it means if anything fails under normal working conditions it will be repaired/replaced. I had to have a ratchet repaired, it was gone a few days and returned in as new condition, completely refurbished.
cletus wrote: » Do teng have a torque wrench in that range?
LollipopJimmy wrote: » 5-25nm is the smallest one I have but there's nothing on my bike that's less.
cletus wrote: » Only asking because the recommendation with torque wrenches is always that the measurement you want shouldn't fall at either end of the scale or the wrench, but close to the centre. (I'm sure you know this already, just chit chatting)
on my back brake, one piston seems to be moving a little more freely than the other.
LollipopJimmy wrote: » I use Teng Tools, lifetime warranty on them
Paul_Mc1988 wrote: » Have some 60mm deep carbons on the road bike currently and have been toying with the idea of latex tubes. Biggest presta valve I can find is 60mm deep. I always use 80mm deep on the normal tubes and have a decent bit to attach onto. Anyone with 60mm deep wheels know if a 60mm presta would be long enough?
rayman1 wrote: » How often do you clean and re grease your headset bearings? Is it a good idea to do it to a new bike that was used a few times a week all over the winter? I want to avoid a problem I had with another bike where the bottom Headset bearing was badly corroded and stuck in the bearing cup. The bike was 4 years old and it was the first time I had looked at the bearings. The bearing fell apart but the bearing race was corroded and stuck solid and I couldn't shift it. In the end my lbs got it out with some difficulty.
Effects wrote: » Have you a link to the torque wrench you use?
CramCycle wrote: » Never had a carbon frame and seatpost before. Do I need to put carbon paste on or if it holds without it, I can just leave as is?
Deano12345 wrote: » Like the guys have already said, it should be fine without once it isn’t torqued out of spec, I think the paste is more important when one part is carbon and the other is Alu/Steel. That being said, I always use the paste for any carbon parts, but that’s cause it’s so cheap, Halfords sell it now for around €3 a tube!
keane2097 wrote: » Not exactly maintenance but looks like this might be the right thread for a noob question. I have a cateye velo wireless computer that does average speed, distance etc but not cadence. I want to upgrade it to one where I can keep an eye on my cadence also. Can anyone recommend me the cheapest, easiest unit to set up that will do the job (presume it's possible to get wireless)?
Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: » You'll pick up a Garmin Edge 500 on ebay second hand for €30-40 or cheaper and you'll need to get a Ant+ (wireless) cadence sensor to go with it. Or if your not in any real rush, you can get the computer, speed/cadence sensor and bike mount from Aliexpress for around €35 inc delivery.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wireless-Bicycle-Computer-Bike-Speed-Cadence-Sensor-Meilan-M4-speedometer-can-connect-Bluetooth-4-0-ANT/32905435736.html Select Option B
magicbastarder wrote: » why is it that every time i take skewers off a wheel, i end up putting the springs on the wrong way around? i've done that the last three times in a row.
