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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    For anyone that finds themselves scratching their heads when switching between wheels and/or cassettes of varying make or spec, this article can take the guesswork out of getting the spacers on the freehub right: LINK

    Here is the summary table from the article:

    59848-largest_Cassette_Chart_2013_Rev3.png


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,301 ✭✭✭John Hutton


    TychoCaine wrote: »
    Yeah, but a chain letting go will usually pitch you off the bike. I've had it happen once, and it didn't end well. Fit the quick link ASAP. And if you can't find the spot, change the entire chain.

    Have ordered a new chain ... Live and learn!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,369 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Have ordered a new chain ... Live and learn!

    Put the old one on a training/turbo bike. A bit of drama about pitching you over the bars :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    A bit of drama about pitching you over the bars :rolleyes:

    You haven't met the people in the LBS with the busted lip and carrying the chain in their hand...


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,369 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Type 17 wrote: »
    You haven't met the people in the LBS with the busted lip and carrying the chain in their hand...

    You probably haven't either.

    Anyways I digress good luck with the new chain no harm in something new and shiny ;)


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,730 ✭✭✭Type 17


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    You probably haven't either.

    I have worked on-and-off as a mechanic in bike shops since my teens (mid-eighties), and it has happened on about two or three occasions, with many more people arriving with snapped chains, but fortunately no injuries (two or three in the last few months alone) :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    Of the various things that can go wrong on a bike, I consider a snapped chain to be at the upper end of the risk range. I've had chains snap on me, fortunately I've walked (well, limped) away with nothing more than bruises but i'd consider myself as extremely lucky in that I kept the bike upright each time (which counts for a lot when it happens while you have a moving car beside you).

    Personally, I take every precaution that I can with chains. Not everyone will agree with the precautions I take, but they include:
    * I don't use quick links except out of necessity (e.g. I carry one in case I snap a chain while far from home). I prefer to join chains with a pin.
    * If I use a quick link I don't re-use it unless it's explicitly described as reusable.
    * I don't exceed the max number of newly installed pins per chain (that's 3 for a Campag chain as far as I can remember, can't recall what it is for Shimano chains, I rarely use anything other than those two brands). Amongst other things, that means not removing the chain every time I need to clean it, and not rotating chains routinely.
    * I use what I consider good quality chain tools.
    * I use an 11sp chain tool for 11sp chains.
    * I'm very careful when sizing a new chain that I'm installing.
    * I make a conscious effort to not cross-chain while riding, though it happens the very odd time when racing.
    * I clean and lube my chains regularly. Even my unloved commute bike chain gets attention now and again.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,258 ✭✭✭saccades


    A strong chain is important but my record is 7 powerlinks and who can be bothered cleaning a bike?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,318 ✭✭✭Macy0161


    A friend of mine put herself out of action for a few months with a knee injury when a chain snapped on her out of the saddle powering up an incline. I do use quick links, and would regularly lube my chain. I did think the manufacturer's had discounted cross chaining as having any real impact though?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Front derailleur seems to have collapsed this morning. It's set to be in the large chainring but is sort of stuck in between the large and small but on the small ring with the chain grinding off the derailleur. Not sure what happened but I was pushing over the canal bridge on Sheriff St at the time.

    Anyone recommend a bike shop or mobile repair van that would have a look at it today (possibly being ambitious here) around Dublin 1? Probably a bad idea to try cycle it home...


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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,647 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    cycle ways, bolton cycles? give them a buzz.
    there's a place on dorset street too, i forget the name.

    could be a slipped cable?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Sydney Cycles on NCR or Shaka Co. opposite Connolly Station seem to be the closest. Seems like it could be a slipped cable alright.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,647 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if you could get an allen key and slacken off the bolt, the derailleur should drop the lower ring, which at least should get you home.
    assuming it's a partially slipped cable, that is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Will have a look at it shortly and see, try get a photo of it. Shaka Co seem to offer same day repairs, even if I drop it down at lunch (from the reviews on Google anyway)


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,440 ✭✭✭cdaly_


    Front derailleur seems to have collapsed this morning. It's set to be in the large chainring but is sort of stuck in between the large and small but on the small ring with the chain grinding off the derailleur.

    I've had this sort of thing happen when a cable is getting ready to break. A couple of strands break and the cable starts to unravel so the derailleur goes out of adjustment. It's pretty obvious when you look at the cable clamp at the derailleur end. If it's unravelling in the shifter, you need to sort it promptly as a snapped cable can leave damaging debris in there.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Looks like the cable slipped, will drop it down to the bike shop on lunch anyway just to be sure it's not unraveling.

    460216.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Ok so turns out the problem is being caused by a missing cap for the bottom bracket. Must have come loose (maybe previous owner had been working on it) at some point and fallen off without me noticing. BB is a FSA MegaExo so will check with the LBS and see if they have the spares. Shaka Co don't have the parts to fix it, but they tightened screws etc on the derailleur to keep it in place for now, free of charge so that was pretty sound of them.

    May just bite the bullet and switch to 105 BB and crank, both chainsets are looking a little worn at this stage. Not sure about the 26km spin home now...


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,647 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    you mean the bottom bracket cable guide was missing?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Guy in the shop described it as a dust cap, I'll know more when I go down to pick it up.

    I'm presuming it's the cap that secures the cranks to the BB

    Edit: added cap link. Also just read that they've a history of coming loose.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,549 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    That explains why it wasn't in the small ring after slipping


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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,442 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Ok so turns out the problem is being caused by a missing cap for the bottom bracket. Must have come loose (maybe previous owner had been working on it) at some point and fallen off without me noticing. BB is a FSA MegaExo so will check with the LBS and see if they have the spares. Shaka Co don't have the parts to fix it, but they tightened screws etc on the derailleur to keep it in place for now, free of charge so that was pretty sound of them.

    May just bite the bullet and switch to 105 BB and crank, both chainsets are looking a little worn at this stage. Not sure about the 26km spin home now...

    I got my Di2 through them, sound lads and I've gone in a few spins with the owner, he's actually pretty new to cycling believe it or not, he bought the business a few months ago


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Yeah, he seems pretty sound alright, said he's only cycling 2 years. Wasn't comfortable cycling home in case it slipped out again.

    Turns out the chainset is nearing its life anyway so may as well upgrade. So considering this as it is compatible and at a decent price. Unsure on the length I should get so any advice would be appreciated.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Answered my own question in the end :rolleyes:

    Thanks for the help folks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,830 ✭✭✭doozerie


    Macy0161 wrote: »
    I did think the manufacturer's had discounted cross chaining as having any real impact though?

    I thought I'd read something with a recent date where various manufacturers gave varied responses to the question. Now that I search though, I can't find anything more recent than this article dating from May 2017.

    A summary of the responses in that article:
    * Shimano: cross-chaining accelerates wear and degrades shifting performance, recommend to avoid it.
    * Campagnolo: cross-chaining is less efficient and accelerates wear, recommend to avoid it.
    * SRAM: DO IT!
    * FSA: cross-chaining means higher stress on the chain, "we decided to invest in the development of much stronger chains", now we're all, like, whatever.

    It's a mixed bag there. FSA are the only ones to venture close to the question of whether cross-chaining might increase the risk of the chain snapping, they don't address the question directly but arguably their aim of producing "much stronger" chains could be interpreted as them considering it a concern worth addressing.

    Whatever about manufacturers though, it's entirely a personal choice as to whether to cross-chain or not. I'm not aware of any real evidence, as such, that cross-chaining increases the risk of a chain breaking, but my personal sense of it is that it does add an extra element of risk. Besides, I see no benefit for me whatsoever in cross-chaining, despite what SRAM say in the article above (SRAM seem to like being the controversial/provisional wing of the cycling industry), so avoiding cross-chaining is an easy choice for me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 615 ✭✭✭mirrormatrix


    Ok so turns out the problem is being caused by a missing cap for the bottom bracket. Must have come loose (maybe previous owner had been working on it) at some point and fallen off without me noticing. BB is a FSA MegaExo so will check with the LBS and see if they have the spares. Shaka Co don't have the parts to fix it, but they tightened screws etc on the derailleur to keep it in place for now, free of charge so that was pretty sound of them.

    May just bite the bullet and switch to 105 BB and crank, both chainsets are looking a little worn at this stage. Not sure about the 26km spin home now...

    Do you mean a missing preload cap for the crank? Are they telling you that your chainset is loose and has moved out from the frame?

    Otherwise, i am not sure how a missing cap has anything to do with your deraileur being out of alignment?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    Crank bolt had fallen out, seemingly the FSA ones are prone to doing so, so chainset moved out from the frame.

    Either way, 105 chainset in the post so will be replaced shortly.


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,549 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    doozerie wrote: »
    Whatever about manufacturers though, it's entirely a personal choice as to whether to cross-chain or not. I'm not aware of any real evidence, as such, that cross-chaining increases the risk of a chain breaking, but my personal sense of it is that it does add an extra element of risk. Besides, I see no benefit for me whatsoever in cross-chaining, despite what SRAM say in the article above (SRAM seem to like being the controversial/provisional wing of the cycling industry), so avoiding cross-chaining is an easy choice for me.

    I used to be against it but in recent times, I really don't see the issue if you keep an eye on your chain and are OK with a slight increase in wear. I have stuck solidly to the big ring and cross chained all year without issue. The slight increase in friction when crossing is minimal and considering it is only on decent climbs that happens, I can live with it. Using a SRAM chain, 1130 I think, previous anecdotal experience tells me it lasts longer than Shimano but this could be BS. It is definetly wearing quicker than in previous years though. At this point I'd be happy enough with a 1X set up for the road.


  • Registered Users Posts: 615 ✭✭✭mirrormatrix


    Crank bolt had fallen out, seemingly the FSA ones are prone to doing so, so chainset moved out from the frame.

    Either way, 105 chainset in the post so will be replaced shortly.

    By the sounds of it you are lucky the crank didn't come off while you were cycling!


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,647 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Do you mean a missing preload cap for the crank? Are they telling you that your chainset is loose and has moved out from the frame?
    looks the crank bolt on FSA cranks is where the preload cap would be on shimano cranks?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vCxf98hXqus


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 885 ✭✭✭Internet Friend


    By the sounds of it you are lucky the crank didn't come off while you were cycling!

    That was my first thoughts but bike shop told me it wouldn't have happened.


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