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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,732 ✭✭✭bigron2109


    Hi lads. I’ve. 30w Green Store. One of the bars which is attached from the Griddle rod to the center piece of the Griddle have broken away. I am just wondering would this be a pricey part to get or can it be repaired. Have looked online but can’t seem to see a price for it .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi, we are currently looking to get a boiler stove installed in our home. After several internet searches we can't seem to find any company's that do the boiler stoves, a lot of them just do regular chimney stoves. We live in Dublin in a regular 3 bed semi. Also does anyone have any experience as to the cost? I read that a system link has to be installed. I know this is typically specialised job for a plumber so I am weary of who we hire and want to make sure they know what they are doing. Thanks in advance for your help.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 336 ✭✭icjzfmq7ewon1t


    Hi a quick question. I intend to fit a Stanley Oisin so it sits in under the chimney. What clearance will it need to a block wall either side and top and rear.
    Really what I'm asking is what's the minimum size hole in the wall I'll need for to stand in the Oisin. Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭chuck eastwood


    Hi a quick question. I intend to fit a Stanley Oisin so it sits in under the chimney. What clearance will it need to a block wall either side and top and rear.
    Really what I'm asking is what's the minimum size hole in the wall I'll need for to stand in the Oisin. Thanks.

    Go to the Stanley site and download the pdf manual. It will give you the minimum clearance for the model you want to fit


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 533 ✭✭✭chuck eastwood


    Hi, we are currently looking to get a boiler stove installed in our home. After several internet searches we can't seem to find any company's that do the boiler stoves, a lot of them just do regular chimney stoves. We live in Dublin in a regular 3 bed semi. Also does anyone have any experience as to the cost? I read that a system link has to be installed. I know this is typically specialised job for a plumber so I am weary of who we hire and want to make sure they know what they are doing. Thanks in advance for your help.
    Hi. I installed a Stanley lismore (with boiler) and a system link. A lot of plumbers in the past had said it was over kill to use a pump for each zone but with newer energy efficient wilo pump that are supplied with the system link it's not really an issue anymore. I installed mine before the wiring centre was avaible from system link. Now you can by a complete set up of pumps and wiring controls direct from system link. I swear bu this system but there are other optiind out there.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    Hi. I installed a Stanley lismore (with boiler) and a system link. A lot of plumbers in the past had said it was over kill to use a pump for each zone but with newer energy efficient wilo pump that are supplied with the system link it's not really an issue anymore. I installed mine before the wiring centre was avaible from system link. Now you can by a complete set up of pumps and wiring controls direct from system link. I swear bu this system but there are other optiind out there.

    Hya, thanks for the reply, so did you install this yourself? Are you a plumber? I just want to get an Idea of the cost. Thanks again for your help/reply


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 boomerangtank


    Got a quote to have an old fireplace removed and new stove and hearth installed.
    Just wondering about the price for the job we were given especially labor. We have already purchased the stove ourselves.

    Removal of existing heath and marble fireplace.
    Installation of new Black Limestone Hearth (2 no. slabs).
    Installation of Liner with 2 no. 22 deg bends and 1 no. 500 straight flue, along with (if needed) extra 250 straight flue and external cowl.
    Installation of block work to take flue pipe work.
    Installation of Sherwood free standing stove
    Installation of 2 no. Carbon Monoxide Alarms.
    Installation of Vent Kit.

    Labor ; e650
    Materials (Vent Kit, CO Alarms) ; e150
    Sand, Cement, Blocks ; e60
    Limestone slabs ; e90

    Overall Total ; e950


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭Roen


    Mine was 950 and included less than that. Not much of a sample size but seems cheap based on my one experience.
    Edit. Does that price include supply of flue liner?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 boomerangtank


    Roen wrote: »
    Mine was 950 and included less than that. Not much of a sample size but seems cheap based on my one experience.
    Edit. Does that price include supply of flue liner?
    No that price doesn't include the flue liner. We purchased the stove and flue liner plus bends ourselves.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,620 ✭✭✭Roen


    Right. As I said only working from my experience but looking at the list of stuff you're getting done versus what I got done your job is way more involved.
    To balance that my liner was included in the price of install.
    Hopefully someone who works at this must give you a better steer.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Got a quote to have an old fireplace removed and new stove and hearth installed.
    Just wondering about the price for the job we were given especially labor. We have already purchased the stove ourselves.

    Removal of existing heath and marble fireplace.
    Installation of new Black Limestone Hearth (2 no. slabs).
    Installation of Liner with 2 no. 22 deg bends and 1 no. 500 straight flue, along with (if needed) extra 250 straight flue and external cowl.
    Installation of block work to take flue pipe work.
    Installation of Sherwood free standing stove
    Installation of 2 no. Carbon Monoxide Alarms.
    Installation of Vent Kit.

    Labor ; e650
    Materials (Vent Kit, CO Alarms) ; e150
    Sand, Cement, Blocks ; e60
    Limestone slabs ; e90

    Overall Total ; e950

    Where are you based?
    Hetas qualified installation team?


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 boomerangtank


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Where are you based?
    Hetas qualified installation team?

    Based in Cork and the company are Hetas qualified.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Based in Cork and the company are Hetas qualified.

    The total of €950 is about right so to be honest.
    My breakdown would be slightly different but would end up around €900-€950.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    Hello.
    Question 're. Double sided stoves.

    Thinking about installing a double sided stove in an existing double chimney breast, (that has 2 fireplaces backing on to each other). We have builders doing an extension so might get some work done on the chimney to accommodate a double sided insert stove.

    The one side of the double sided stove would face our existing sitting room. The other side would face an open plan area comprising kitchen/diner and sunroom.

    The open plan area would be nearly 3 times the size of the sitting room.

    Would the imbalance likely cause issues whereby the sitting room might be sweltering but the open plan area might not warm enough? Or is it generally possible to control with dampers or vents to some extent?

    We are considering a Morso S120 wood burning insert, 10kw nominal. Any feedback on brand etc? Want to get something reliable and reputable.

    Also, Would we be better off going multituel in terms of heat output? Storage etc for logs wouldn't be a huge problem.

    Thanks for any advice!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    ravendude wrote: »
    Hello.
    Question 're. Double sided stoves.

    Thinking about installing a double sided stove in an existing double chimney breast, (that has 2 fireplaces backing on to each other). We have builders doing an extension so might get some work done on the chimney to accommodate a double sided insert stove.

    The one side of the double sided stove would face our existing sitting room. The other side would face an open plan area comprising kitchen/diner and sunroom.

    The open plan area would be nearly 3 times the size of the sitting room.

    Would the imbalance likely cause issues whereby the sitting room might be sweltering but the open plan area might not warm enough? Or is it generally possible to control with dampers or vents to some extent?

    We are considering a Morso S120 wood burning insert, 10kw nominal. Any feedback on brand etc? Want to get something reliable and reputable.

    Also, Would we be better off going multituel in terms of heat output? Storage etc for logs wouldn't be a huge problem.

    Thanks for any advice!

    You would need to find a model that suits the depth of your opened up fireplace.
    Once you know the depth it will narrow down your choice of brand to a select few.

    No it’s not really possible to control heat output to each room.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    Quick question 're. Stovax vs Boru/Henley

    Stovax seem to quote nominal and range output, so say a stovax riva 55 and 66 has a nominal output of 8, but a range of 2.5 to 11kw.

    On the other hand Boru quote 10KW for a 600i. Henley also have a number of 10kw options,. Stovax tend to top out at 8KW nominal, but not sure if that equates to s bit more.

    Just wondering how these actually compare to each other in reality. Should I compare the stovax at 11kw or 8kw to Borus 10kw?

    The space is quite large so want some thing that is s decent size. Like the Stovax but really don't want to underside.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    Forge83 wrote: »
    You would need to find a model that suits the depth of your opened up fireplace.
    Once you know the depth it will narrow down your choice of brand to a select few.

    No it’s not really possible to control heat output to each room.

    Thanks a lot for the info. I'd be inclined to rule it out based on your second point.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    ravendude wrote: »
    Quick question 're. Stovax vs Boru...

    Stovax seem to quote nominal and range output, so say a stovax riva 55 and 66 has a nominal output of 8, but a range of 2.5 to 11kw.

    On the other hand Boru quote 10KW for a 600i.
    Just wondering how these actually compare to each other in reality. Should I compare the stovax at 11kw or 8kw to Borus 10kw.

    The space is quite large so want some thing that is s decent size

    The Boru is also nominal.
    If you plan on burning good dry wood buy the Stovax.
    If you plan on burning dirty turf or coal but the Boru.
    Heat Design Vitae 9kw or 11kw or Henley Faro 600 two others to consider. Saw a new Vitae going cheap on DoneDeal a few days ago.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    ravendude wrote: »
    Quick question 're. Stovax vs Boru/Henley

    Stovax seem to quote nominal and range output, so say a stovax riva 55 and 66 has a nominal output of 8, but a range of 2.5 to 11kw.

    On the other hand Boru quote 10KW for a 600i. Henley also have a number of 10kw options,. Stovax tend to top out at 8KW nominal, but not sure if that equates to s bit more.

    Just wondering how these actually compare to each other in reality. Should I compare the stovax at 11kw or 8kw to Borus 10kw?

    The space is quite large so want some thing that is s decent size. Like the Stovax but really don't want to underside.

    Just to add to that, the area is 3 rooms (kitchen, diner and sunroom), open plan, nearly 160 cubic metres.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Looking at that double option too, medium term plan. You could put one or two of those fans on top of the side needing to heat the larger area if the stove is protruding. That may be a bit gimmicky but may work.

    Thanks Forge for the detail. Was considering the Boru i600 but will now look at the Stovax. Hope to use wood only.
    Ha, looking at snow falling outside here, a cosy fire is very tempting.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    Forge83 wrote: »
    The Boru is also nominal.
    If you plan on burning good dry wood buy the Stovax.
    If you plan on burning dirty turf or coal but the Boru.
    Heat Design Vitae 9kw or 11kw or Henley Faro 600 two others to consider. Saw a new Vitae going cheap on DoneDeal a few days ago.

    Thanks for the suggestions. What would be regarded as a high quality brand for multi fuel at that kind of output (10kw)? Looking for something a bit contemporary looking also. Would be happy to pay a bit more for quality and peace of mind, "buy cheap buy twice" and all that.

    I saw some Stovax and you could really tell the difference in quality, but as you suggest, they tend to focus more on wood burning as you go up the KW. Same with Morso. How would Aarow compare?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    ravendude wrote: »
    Thanks for the suggestions. What would be regarded as a high quality brand for multi fuel at that kind of output (10kw)? Looking for something a bit contemporary looking also. Would be happy to pay a bit more for quality and peace of mind, "buy cheap buy twice" and all that.

    I saw some Stovax and you could really tell the difference in quality, but as you suggest, they tend to focus more on wood burning as you go up the KW. Same with Morso. How would Aarow compare?

    To be honest there’s really no bad brands anymore. Everything is decent.
    No stove brand really want people burning multi fuel, they want people burning dry wood. It’s not too far away that that is all that will be allowed anyway.
    The better quality brands can get away with pushing people towards wood burning so tend to do so. The average quality brands will normally advertise multi fuel just to pull in more customers.

    Stovax and Dilusso would be 2 of the best if the model you choose is available with multi fuel kit.
    Charnwood, Morso,Dik Geurts would also be highly regarded.
    Henley, Heat Design, Hota, Boru would probably offer the best value vs quality.
    Stanley and Aarow both good but overpriced for quality.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,688 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Forge have you heard any feedback on the Polish brand Kratki? They seem to be new-ish to Ireland but have a massive range so guessing they are well known on the continent?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    Muahahaha wrote: »
    Forge have you heard any feedback on the Polish brand Kratki? They seem to be new-ish to Ireland but have a massive range so guessing they are well known on the continent?

    They are a massive polish brand. They have some great value models.
    However most of their models need to be vented which doesn’t suit Irish Chimney’s.
    Personally I prefer convection based stoves. I think the Arke is the only one they have.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 585 ✭✭✭ravendude


    Def leaning towards fully wood burning now.

    Are Contura regarded as a good brand?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    ravendude wrote: »
    Def leaning towards fully wood burning now.

    Are Contura regarded as a good brand?

    Yes fantastic quality.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,245 ✭✭✭limnam


    We're looking at installing a stove in an existing double chimney breast two fireplaces in two adjacent rooms.


    is it possible to remove part of a chimney stack and suspend it somehow over the stove or what would the normal way to install a stove in such a situation?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Back to back fireplaces, would possibly be a deep base as over 600mm.
    I would presume if its a modern block build that they is no support block work between the fireplaces. You would have to work within the limits of the present lintels IWT.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,245 ✭✭✭limnam


    Water John wrote: »
    Back to back fireplaces, would possibly be a deep base as over 600mm.
    I would presume if its a modern block build that they is no support block work between the fireplaces. You would have to work within the limits of the present lintels IWT.


    Thanks Water


    Sorry what's lintels IWT?


    Was hoping to do something to support the stack from 1st floor up and have stoe between both adjacent rooms


    house is circa 2003


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    There is a load bearing lintel over each fireplace to the front, same as over windows and doors. Prestressed concrete slab.
    Inset stoves slide in under this. If you have two fireplaces back to back, the two lintels take the load weight of the chimney stack. IWT a stove like Boru 1600 might fit. You'll have to check with the tradesman who'll be installing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,017 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    I have a mulberry stove and the grate is after disintegrating .It is the grate with a circular part that swivels to stoke up the fire .I have disconnected this part from the bar that works it in the front.I was just thinking of replacing with a ordinary grate .Is it a big job to remove old grate from the stove and replace with new grate


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,245 ✭✭✭limnam


    Water John wrote: »
    There is a load bearing lintel over each fireplace to the front, same as over windows and doors. Prestressed concrete slab.
    Inset stoves slide in under this. If you have two fireplaces back to back, the two lintels take the load weight of the chimney stack. IWT a stove like Boru 1600 might fit. You'll have to check with the tradesman who'll be installing.


    Ah,


    I'm with you now. What I'm looking to do is take the whole breast out and stack of both rooms and have a large double sided slot in the new gap between the rooms



    Would I be able to have the slab you mentioned rebuilt above the new stove to take the weight from say the 1st floor cieling upwards?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21,808 ✭✭✭✭Water John


    Out of my league. I think you'd have to strip down the chimney and rebuild.

    Beaware, watch Builder O'Reilly Fawlty Towers, with the load bearing wall.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,617 ✭✭✭Squatman


    Hi folks,
    what is the maximum distance a stove with back boiler should be away from the hot tank without eating into its efficiency.
    our open fire is approx 18 meters away from the hot tank, and im afraifd that the pipes may be rattly and temperature inefficient.
    is there a rule of thumb around this?

    tHanks all


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 605 ✭✭✭upupup


    Squatman wrote: »
    Hi folks,
    what is the maximum distance a stove with back boiler should be away from the hot tank without eating into its efficiency.
    our open fire is approx 18 meters away from the hot tank, and im afraifd that the pipes may be rattly and temperature inefficient.
    is there a rule of thumb around this?

    tHanks all

    The movement of hot water from the stove to the hot tank is called gravity circulation so any length of vertical distance will work but the futher you travel horizontally,the worse your system will be.
    There is no max distance as every house is different but if it does not circulate properly it may become dangerous and overheat as you can not turn off a stove quickly.

    18 meters is a lot...1 or 2 meters is the preferred distance for a trouble free system


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,811 ✭✭✭dzilla


    Hello all. I am having difficulty picking a stove KW output for an open plan are. The space is double height. So the living dining area is 2.4m height and 26m² the kitchen is 20m² but the curling is faulted so it's 2.4m and then closes into a triangle that is 4.4m².

    So it's quite a large space.

    We are putting a stove in and we have been told by some that we only need 7kw as we have 2 radiators in the space aswell. The stove installer is saying we should go for 12kw. However I genuinely think it might be too much. We are only heating the room no back boiler.

    Would it be best to go for middle of the road size or the large size. I genuinely don't want to be melting in the space and opening windows etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,688 ✭✭✭✭Muahahaha


    Can't answer your question for sure but you should check out the nominal output of the stove when making a decision, it is often a few KW below the headline figure quoted in sales brochures.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,580 ✭✭✭jmreire


    Has anyone have any experience with a Charnwood Country 16 B Multi-fuel stove?? It's for an older house, and will have to heat 7 rads ( two will be small rads though, towel warmer and toilet rad )
    Thanks for any info.


  • Registered Users Posts: 602 ✭✭✭batman1


    Hi,

    We currently have a stratford ecoboiler 12HE inset boiler stove .
    While it heats the radiators, they're not 'hot' and the room where the stove is in is not as warm as we would perhaps like. We've had it in for 8 years but between the heat output and the passing of time, we are thinking of changing.

    We hope to open up the fireplace and fit a freestanding boiler stove instead of the insert one and up the power to see if the room heat improves. The Mrs would like the stove to be 'hot', as in nice to stand beside it and warm up....! Our current one doesn't give that type of heat.

    After speaking to the supplier, he recommended putting in a 20Kw stove, specifically the Henley Druid 21Kw. Has anyone experience of these? I noticed they have bricks inside. Does this mean regular replacement/cracking etc?

    A friend says the Boru Carrag mor 20Kw is good also.

    Stanley reginald also seems to fit.

    Any advice is much appreciated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 186 ✭✭rpmcs


    batman1 wrote:
    We currently have a stratford ecoboiler 12HE inset boiler stove . While it heats the radiators, they're not 'hot' and the room where the stove is in is not as warm as we would perhaps like. We've had it in for 8 years but between the heat output and the passing of time, we are thinking of changing.

    batman1 wrote:
    We hope to open up the fireplace and fit a freestanding boiler stove instead of the insert one and up the power to see if the room heat improves. The Mrs would like the stove to be 'hot', as in nice to stand beside it and warm up....! Our current one doesn't give that type of heat.


    Hi. The 12he would be a far better stove than the druid in my opinion.
    But when you say bricks. Where did you see the bricks?
    The main reason you are not getting good heat to the room is because the stove is not getting the system up to temperature. So getting a freestanding stove that has more output than 12kw to the water is probably what u need
    Bit get a plumber in and see how many rads you have and what output they would require and then when u get that right the out put to room should improve.
    If that makes sense?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    batman1 wrote: »
    Hi,

    We currently have a stratford ecoboiler 12HE inset boiler stove .
    While it heats the radiators, they're not 'hot' and the room where the stove is in is not as warm as we would perhaps like. We've had it in for 8 years but between the heat output and the passing of time, we are thinking of changing.

    We hope to open up the fireplace and fit a freestanding boiler stove instead of the insert one and up the power to see if the room heat improves. The Mrs would like the stove to be 'hot', as in nice to stand beside it and warm up....! Our current one doesn't give that type of heat.

    After speaking to the supplier, he recommended putting in a 20Kw stove, specifically the Henley Druid 21Kw. Has anyone experience of these? I noticed they have bricks inside. Does this mean regular replacement/cracking etc?

    A friend says the Boru Carrag mor 20Kw is good also.

    Stanley reginald also seems to fit.

    Any advice is much appreciated

    You would be mad to change the Stratford for inferior models. I would look at the volume and quality of fuel you are using. Or consider fitting a heat hero to improve stove boiler performance.
    No boiler stove gives massive room heat.

    Henley Druid boiler stove doesn’t have bricks either, only the room heater models.


  • Registered Users Posts: 602 ✭✭✭batman1


    Maybe the one he showed me was a room heater model. Definitely had bricks in it.

    So would sticking to Stratford be the way to go long term? Maybe their freestanding stoves in a bigger size?

    Any other manufacturers which would be considered good for freestanding stoves?

    We will need to change the flue liner before next winter as its got slight damage from an unknown source (dodgy chimney sweep). In order to replace the liner the fireplace has to come out to gain access to the top of the stove. When the stove went in, the fireplace surround cracked as it was a cheapy put in by the builders, so we were told it would need replaced whenever the next time it comes out.

    Therefore, if we are doing all those jobs we may as well change the 8 year old stove and fit a bigger one, freestanding that hopefully wouldn't need major surgery to change the liner in the future.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    batman1 wrote: »
    Maybe the one he showed me was a room heater model. Definitely had bricks in it.

    So would sticking to Stratford be the way to go long term? Maybe their freestanding stoves in a bigger size?

    Any other manufacturers which would be considered good for freestanding stoves?

    We will need to change the flue liner before next winter as its got slight damage from an unknown source (dodgy chimney sweep). In order to replace the liner the fireplace has to come out to gain access to the top of the stove. When the stove went in, the fireplace surround cracked as it was a cheapy put in by the builders, so we were told it would need replaced whenever the next time it comes out.

    Therefore, if we are doing all those jobs we may as well change the 8 year old stove and fit a bigger one, freestanding that hopefully wouldn't need major surgery to change the liner in the future.

    Removing the liner will be a dirty job if backfilled with vermiculite.
    Stratford would be regarded as the best boiler stove brand. Nothing wrong with the other brands you mentioned either, just a notch down from Stratford.
    Henley & Hamco would be the 2 mid range I would advise if you are set on changing. Where you based and I can point you in direction of a good genuine stove specialist.


  • Registered Users Posts: 602 ✭✭✭batman1


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Removing the liner will be a dirty job if backfilled with vermiculite.
    Stratford would be regarded as the best boiler stove brand. Nothing wrong with the other brands you mentioned either, just a notch down from Stratford.
    Henley & Hamco would be the 2 mid range I would advise if you are set on changing. Where you based and I can point you in direction of a good genuine stove specialist.

    I was actually questioning the need for a liner at all.

    Based in Donegal


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    batman1 wrote: »
    I was actually questioning the need for a liner at all.

    Based in Donegal

    Try Devlin Fireplaces in Bridgend. Those guys really know their stuff.
    Shaun Devlin is the guy to speak to there.


  • Registered Users Posts: 602 ✭✭✭batman1


    Forge83 wrote: »
    Try Devlin Fireplaces in Bridgend. Those guys really know their stuff.
    Shaun Devlin is the guy to speak to there.

    Good guys . It was there where I was asked whether I really wanted a flue liner as they don't bother them much anymore due to hassle changing them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 9 vtecdec


    Seen the Heat Design Vitae 9kw Cassette Stove recently in a Stove/Fireplace showroom.
    Looks to be a very tidy stove alright?
    Anyone here have one of these Vitae 9Kw stoves. Any comments/feedback whether good/bad would be quite useful as I plan to purchase at the weekend.

    Thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    vtecdec wrote: »
    Seen the Heat Design Vitae 9kw Cassette Stove recently in a Stove/Fireplace showroom.
    Looks to be a very tidy stove alright?
    Anyone here have one of these Vitae 9Kw stoves. Any comments/feedback whether good/bad would be quite useful as I plan to purchase at the weekend.

    Thanks in advance.

    Very popular stove, decent quality, Irish brand. Made in China but wouldn’t worry about it as decent quality.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 189 ✭✭try


    Is there any difference in appearance between Schiedel TecnoFlex plus 316L and 904L flue liner? Is the grade stamped on the liner?

    I’ve ordered the 904L and want to make sure I’m getting what I pay for


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 745 ✭✭✭Forge83


    try wrote: »
    Is there any difference in appearance between Schiedel TecnoFlex plus 316L and 904L flue liner? Is the grade stamped on the liner?

    I’ve ordered the 904L and want to make sure I’m getting what I pay for

    If it’s a wrapped roll of flexi it will be labeled before it’s opened.
    I think it will be wrapped in black plastic if memory serves me right.

    Once opened only someone in the industry would be able to tell the difference by feel.


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