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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Riva 55 is a very high quality stove.
    You couldn't go wrong with it to be honest.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Without doubt the Achill 6.6kw is one of the top selling stoves in the country.
    While nobody can obviously say for sure it's easy enough to work out.
    I know in Meath and a couple of other counties they are now being used by the county councils instead of Stanley Caras.

    The Apollo is a convection based stove.In reality is just a smaller modern version of the Achill with a few small design differences so should be equally as good.
    Sloped back box,cast iron bricks and air wash lever in a different place.
    The Achill is just a more popular look and has a great reputation overall.

    Im looking at getting the Achill for my sitting room was wondering would it be too big according to the dimensions i have imputted on the hendly website i only need 3.3 kw to heat my room.

    I have double doors which open into the kitchen which i was hoping to leave open and heat the downstairs would i be better with the apollo ??

    Sanchez you mentioned Meath could you recommend any good suppliers for either of those hendley stoves ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    Im looking at getting the Achill for my sitting room was wondering would it be too big according to the dimensions i have imputted on the hendly website i only need 3.3 kw to heat my room.

    I have double doors which open into the kitchen which i was hoping to leave open and heat the downstairs would i be better with the apollo ??

    Sanchez you mentioned Meath could you recommend any good suppliers for either of those hendley stoves ??


    Am sure you will get responses from the more qualified but just as a punter
    - My room came out at needing 3.8kw and the local supplier recommended against my choice of stanley cara (at 6.6kw as well) as he reckoned whilst it might heat downstairs with the double doors open it could be uncomfortably hot to sit in the room with the stove to, for example, watch tv at night.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    macjohn wrote: »
    Am sure you will get responses from the more qualified but just as a punter
    - My room came out at needing 3.8kw and the local supplier recommended against my choice of stanley cara (at 6.6kw as well) as he reckoned whilst it might heat downstairs with the double doors open it could be uncomfortably hot to sit in the room with the stove to, for example, watch tv at night.

    What did you buy in the end ??


  • Registered Users Posts: 28 Rigador


    Hoping someone can help me with this. Have just recently had a stove installed in our living room. Free standing appliance with no existing chimney, so flue comes straight off the top of the stove and heads right on up out through the ceiling. It then goes through a flat felt roof. There is a metal plate in the ceiling with some vents in it (think it's called a firestop??) and when I look through it I can see the silver underside of the plate they used on the exterior of the roof. We had heavy rain last night and this morning I noticed some moisture on the underside of this external sheet. I'm thinking could it simply be condensation?

    The installers didn't felt over this metal plate, and I'm wondering if this is why we'd have this condensation. i.e if it was felted over would it be warmer in temperature and not attract moisture underneath?

    Hope that all makes sense. Ultimately I'm wondering does the plate on the exterior need to be felted over. Would it be normal for it to be left as it is?

    Thanks a million!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 33 eskanw


    Registered User
    I can see that there is lots of stove questions but I can't find what I'm looking for, my husband decided to install a stove in the living room, he ripped out the open fire and duly installed the stove with a concrete board surrounding it and then the mantelpiece back up, the thing is I have tiles ordered to cover the concrete board but it gets really really hot like too hot to touch and I don't think they'll stick to it. So now he's talking about drilling a hole in the wall at the side of the chimney breast to 'let the trapped heat out,' is he talking a load of bull?? It just doesn't sound right to me. Also there is a terrible smell off it, it had been lit 5 times its like a smell of fumes but there's no smoke it gave me a headache last night I had to have the patio door open.any help appreciated


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Your husband doesn't have a clue.
    Get a professional in.


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Your husband doesn't have a clue.
    Get a professional in.

    This! Plus a thousand.

    Seriously, please please take Sanchezs advice. (He knows his stuff, just look at this forum, it is solid advice)

    Plus what you describe the husband doing is just scary.


  • Registered Users Posts: 201 ✭✭Dayo93


    Just wondering how the heat output for stoves are worked out, take for example the henley achill, it is 6.6 kw , is this output measured the maximum heat output measured at full burn ?. If so what would the output be when stove down at lowest burn. Hopefully my question makes sense
    Cheers


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,105 ✭✭✭cocoman


    eskanw wrote: »
    Registered User
    I can see that there is lots of stove questions but I can't find what I'm looking for, my husband decided to install a stove in the living room, he ripped out the open fire and duly installed the stove with a concrete board surrounding it and then the mantelpiece back up, the thing is I have tiles ordered to cover the concrete board but it gets really really hot like too hot to touch and I don't think they'll stick to it. So now he's talking about drilling a hole in the wall at the side of the chimney breast to 'let the trapped heat out,' is he talking a load of bull?? It just doesn't sound right to me. Also there is a terrible smell off it, it had been lit 5 times its like a smell of fumes but there's no smoke it gave me a headache last night I had to have the patio door open.any help appreciated

    I can see what he's hoping to do by drilling the hole. I presume that he would be drilling from the side of the chimney breast into where the open fire used to be and not higher up into the chimney flue. Considering that the concrete board is getting so hot, I am a bit weary that adequate distances have not been adhered to regarding distance from stove to adjacent surfaces. The installation manual should provide guidance. I would imagine that any tiles you put up would just crack with the heat. If you have adequate space a stovefan would help disperse the heat from around the stove into the room.

    In relation to the smell there would usually be a smell from a new stove for the first few lightings. I didn't think it should be so bad as to give you headaches. As mentioned earlier it might be best to get some professional advice. Let us know how you get on.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 503 ✭✭✭johnb25


    Hi,

    Just looking at this ad for a Stovax Riva F40 Avanti Midi Stove.
    Says firebricks need replacing.
    Two questions: is it normal that they would need replacing after five years. And are they expensive, or difficult to get?
    I did not see any info on the Stovax web site.

    Thanks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    5 years is a great length of time to get out of fire bricks.
    You should be able to order them from any shop that sells Stovax products.
    Some shops just cut it themselves to whatever size is required.
    Great price if the stove is operating well.
    Check everything on it before purchase-
    Door seals-Put a piece of paper between the door and frame and see if it can be pulled out.If yes it means the door/hinges must be fixed.
    Grate,baffle etc
    If you can get a smoke pellet somewhere it will show you if it's in decent condition or not.


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭littlebsci


    Hi, have just started researching cassette stoves for our living room (3.6x5m). I like the look of the Heat Design TR5C or Firewarm 5C.... Any opinions on these? I think output wise that size should be ok?!

    The fireplace in the room was designed to take a flueless gas fire so will need an external flue and have been told that the back of our fireplace surround needs to be removed, jointed and then moved forward as the space that's there is too shallow.

    Would anyone be able to recommend a one stop shop for buying the stove and getting the above work done?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    They are both made by heat design.
    2 good stoves at good prices.
    Wherabouts are you based?


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭littlebsci


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    They are both made by heat design.
    2 good stoves at good prices.
    Wherabouts are you based?

    Oh that's good to know! We're in Rathfarnham.


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    littlebsci wrote: »
    Hi, have just started researching cassette stoves for our living room (3.6x5m). I like the look of the Heat Design TR5C or Firewarm 5C.... Any opinions on these? I think output wise that size should be ok?!

    The fireplace in the room was designed to take a flueless gas fire so will need an external flue and have been told that the back of our fireplace surround needs to be removed, jointed and then moved forward as the space that's there is too shallow.

    Would anyone be able to recommend a one stop shop for buying the stove and getting the above work done?


    Are you committed to the cassette? Wondering with the set-up you have would a free standing work easier?
    Just something to think about as your various potential suppliers might mention it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭ABC101


    eskanw wrote: »
    Registered User
    I can see that there is lots of stove questions but I can't find what I'm looking for, my husband decided to install a stove in the living room, he ripped out the open fire and duly installed the stove with a concrete board surrounding it and then the mantelpiece back up, the thing is I have tiles ordered to cover the concrete board but it gets really really hot like too hot to touch and I don't think they'll stick to it. So now he's talking about drilling a hole in the wall at the side of the chimney breast to 'let the trapped heat out,' is he talking a load of bull?? It just doesn't sound right to me. Also there is a terrible smell off it, it had been lit 5 times its like a smell of fumes but there's no smoke it gave me a headache last night I had to have the patio door open.any help appreciated

    Might be carbon monoxide poisoning?

    Make sure you get a CO monitor alarm, most DIY stores stock them.

    Did your husband have the flue lined?


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭littlebsci


    macjohn wrote: »
    Are you committed to the cassette? Wondering with the set-up you have would a free standing work easier?
    Just something to think about as your various potential suppliers might mention it.

    Yeah, we're tight on space in the room plus although I love the free standing they wouldn't suit the style of the room at all. Thanks though!


  • Registered Users Posts: 239 ✭✭littlebsci


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Try these guys.
    They have a good deal on a package including one of those stoves at the moment.
    http://www.alanlawlorfireplaces.com

    Thanks for the suggestion, I'll give them a shout :-)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 racer77


    Hi All, one or two quick questions......am thinking of purchasing a Boru Stove (Carraig Mor 25kw)...this is to replace a free standing wood pellet boiler that I have...regarding installation...I presume its just a simple job of piping up the stove to the existing pipework? I have been hearing about a heat genie etc...is this necessary?(1 shop has stated it will cost 5 grand to install a stove??) I have a normal copper cylinder in the hot press upstairs...also, I plan to connect the stove to an existing chimney, which had an old Stanley range attached....I hardly need to put a full flue up there?

    Sorry for all the questions....just need to check Im not been told porkies!!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14 joykn


    Hi, I recently got stanley reginald enamel stove. And when the door was opened fully the hinges chipped!! How could that happened so easily? What should I do?


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,814 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    joykn wrote: »
    Hi, I recently got stanley reginald enamel stove. And when the door was opened fully the hinges chipped!! How could that happened so easily? What should I do?

    Dunno about anyone else, but I'd first think about getting on to the place you bought it from?

    What else would you do :confused:


  • Registered Users Posts: 14 joykn


    I mean it is stanley after spending so much money on it you won't expect to chip so easily right?! They provide you with a small bottle of black paint when you buy the stove. Urgh... I don't know maybe I just paint it over


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Try these guys.
    They have a good deal on a package including one of those stoves at the moment.
    http://www.alanlawlorfireplaces.com

    Hi Sanchez, can you recommend any places on north side of Dublin (based in Skerries) to do a complete job from start to finish? Trying to avoid cowboys and happy to pay a bit more to get everything done right.

    Or perhaps you're in the business given your knowledge (PM me if you are and are interested).


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    Thanks just keen to have it installed right - too many horror stories.

    Have settled on an insert - possibly the Henley Achill. Anything else similar worth considering?

    Anyone used bpm supplies? Seem to do good range of fireplaces and stoves too.

    Will look at those others you recommend


  • Registered Users Posts: 28,814 ✭✭✭✭HeidiHeidi


    PM sent


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Re the Stanley Reginald.
    Do not touch it up with the paint!!!! If you do you may get no comeback.
    If it is a new stove take a picture and go back to your retailer.
    If enamel chips on a new stove they should replace the stove with a new one.
    Reinforces the point that Stanley are not what they once were even though the prices are still extortionate.


  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭sumo12


    HI all
    I've been to a reputable stove dealer looking for a freestanding, room heating stove around the 7kw mark. He showed me stoves from Hamco and Mazona, neither of which I had heard of after extensive internet research!!!
    Any opinions on them? Good/Bad/Ugly?

    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 Mizenly


    I may have a small disaster on my hands: new Inis Bofin insert stove just installed, looks fab; installer laid a small fire with kindling and let it go for about the half an hour, then banked it up with more kindling and let a bigger fire burn...and I noticed some white marks along the very top edge of the door. At first I thought it was just soot and dust from the installation...then I saw one of the firebricks hadn't been put in, the very smallest long, thin one that fits low down at the back of the stove...and now google tells me the white spots mean the paint hasn't cured correctly! Does this sound right? Is the missing firebrick to blame? If I have to repaint the stove I want to know it won't happen again :(


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi Sumo,

    Nothing wrong with either the Hamco or Mazona stoves.
    While they would not be among the most well known stoves in the country they will get the job done.
    Their prices are normally fairly reasonable.


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