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STOVES questions and answers here(see mod note in post 1)

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Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Mizenly,
    Who left the brick out? Inis,the fitter or you?
    Whoever did is responsible for fixing it IMO.


  • Site Banned Posts: 600 ✭✭✭Spirit of 67


    Probably mentioned here somewhere already but what is best for cleaning the Glass on the door , I burn Turf and Wood !


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,908 ✭✭✭Citizenpain


    Damp newspaper dipped in the ashes works well for wood . Not sure about turf


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    If the moisture content of your fuel it's high it can be quite tough to keep the glass clean.
    The top air vent should be left slightly open to keep it clear.
    If you need to clean it you can use the cold ash on some newspaper which may work.
    After that you can purchase specific stove glass cleaner from most hardware shops.


  • Registered Users Posts: 531 ✭✭✭macjohn


    Probably mentioned here somewhere already but what is best for cleaning the Glass on the door , I burn Turf and Wood !

    Try to burn the best quality fuel you can.
    For eg seasoned wood doesn't tend to blacken the glass at all or even if it does a wipe of a damp cloth is all you need.
    Do you have the stove long? Once you are used to the dampers etc the glass should stay clear.
    I find dont change the dampers at all with the last fill of the night a good trick to keep the glass clear.


    Edit - to say crossed with Sanchez


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  • Registered Users Posts: 584 ✭✭✭sumo12


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi Sumo,

    Nothing wrong with either the Hamco or Mazona stoves.
    While they would not be among the most well known stoves in the country they will get the job done.
    Their prices are normally fairly reasonable.

    Many thanks for the reply Sanchez, yes they are reasonably priced.


  • Registered Users Posts: 47 piafe


    Hi,

    Have been without heating since January due to gas boiler being unrepairable after putting a lot of money into it.. I've decided that I am getting a stove, have done as much research and got advice from different sources but am getting different opinions so I'm hoping someone here can help.

    I live in a 3 bed house,7 radiators, not open plan.

    Due to money I am looking at getting a non back boiler stove fitted. Spoke with two people-in separate builders merchants and who have this type fitted, who have told me that it will heat the house sufficiently if the living room door is opened.

    The stove I have been recommended is the blacksmith anvil.

    Another guy reckons it won't work at all.

    Any advice? My total budget would be €750 max.

    Thanks in advance.


  • Registered Users Posts: 989 ✭✭✭piperh


    We're hoping to get a boiler stove fitted asap. We've 8 rads 4 single and 4 double to be heated, the stove is going into a 18x15 room with high ceiling and have been told we need a 21kw does this sound about right?

    The other thing is we've asked around and it seems difficult to get anyone to fit it as the plumbing is already there so if anyone has recommendations I'd welcome pms.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi Piafe,

    The anvil is a 6kw stove.
    I would doubt it would keep much more than your room and maybe the hallway off it warm.The guys in the builders Providers are pushing a sale by the sounds of things.
    But...you can't really go more than a 6kw as you would be too hot in the room the stove is located.So therefore it would heat that room.
    There is no such thing as a room heater stove to heat your whole house.
    If the look of the anvil is what you after you will get better prices on either the Henley Aran or Olymberyl Gabriel.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Hi PiperH,

    As an estimate you will need 14/15kw to the water and 5/6kw to the room so 21kw sounds correct.
    If you pm me your locating I will give you the name of somebody who can fit in your area.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 47 piafe


    Hi sanchez83 and thanks for the quick reply.

    That's a shame the heat wouldn't move around a small bit but good to know. Looks like my electric heaters wont be getting packed away just yet so.

    I'll have a look at those two brands you've given me, didn't come across either today so will try find a stockist nearby.

    Thanks for your help, greatly appreciated.


    Sanchez83 wrote: »
    Hi Piafe,

    The anvil is a 6kw stove.
    I would doubt it would keep much more than your room and maybe the hallway off it warm.The guys in the builders Providers are pushing a sale by the sounds of things.
    But...you can't really go more than a 6kw as you would be too hot in the room the stove is located.So therefore it would heat that room.
    There is no such thing as a room heater stove to heat your whole house.
    If the look of the anvil is what you after you will get better prices on either the Henley Aran or Olymberyl Gabriel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 22 shareboy


    Hi there.

    Was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have installed a stove, stanley Oisin with single wall and twin wall piping straight up to roof level with lead flashing, storm collar and rain cowl. All done to code. Problem is, I have a leak when it rains and the water is coming down the inside of the piping and is leaking out the rear blank plate of the stove. Can anyone help me out as to why this is happening and maybe a solution.

    Regards Shareboy


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Would you not get the person who fitted it back out to check for a leak or problem?
    Hard to say what the problem is without inspecting it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 Mizenly


    Hi Sanchez - it was the fitters...unfortunately they are family friends (in the building trade). Do you think that's what has caused the white marks?


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,724 ✭✭✭kennyb3


    How long do people think/expect their stoves to last?

    Before efficiency drops off? Or does it.

    Wondering if I'll have the outlay for new one every 10,15,20 or 30 years?

    Also aside from purchase, installation & fuel what are the other costs?

    - chimney swept? or need with flue?
    - the odd replacement part?
    - any servicing required?
    - anything else?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Mizenly,
    To be honest I never heard of that happening before.
    After a bit of research it would suggest it would take a big fire to cause that mark with the fire brick left out.
    So therefore I would go back to the retailer.Say nothing about leaving the brick out :p


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    The lifetime of a stove of course depends on its quality.
    One would hope they would have a lifespan of 15-20 years but hard to say for sure.
    A chimney has to be cleaned regardless I suppose.
    Parts like grates,bricksand baffles will have to be replaces every few years depending on the brand. These vary from e40 plus.
    Any servicing required you should be able to do yourself.Scraping sut,replacing door rope etc


  • Registered Users Posts: 64 ✭✭Dave1014


    Hi guys
    Looking at getting a Mulberry Beckett stove.
    The room it is going into is 24 x 24 foot.

    Question I need help with is should we have the stove freestanding in front of the original fireplace opening or should we open up the original fireplace and recess it?
    Do we lose a lot of heat by recessing it?
    Thanks in advance
    Dave


  • Registered Users Posts: 12 Mizenly


    Thanks Sanchez - retailer said "it's just paint, it happens" and said he'd send out some stove paint! Now I see a hairline crack in the new plaster coming from the top of the stove...if that is normal plaster, not heat resistant, am I royally screwed? Would painting over with some kind of heat tolerant paint help?!! This is not the happy stove climax I was expecting - I think I miss the open fire...!


  • Registered Users Posts: 499 ✭✭pcasso


    Apologies in advance if I am asking a question that already has been answered but having read a lot of this thread I haven't seen it.
    My query relates to ventilation.
    Is the requirement for ventilation to assist combustion in the stove or is it a safety feature to help combat carbon monoxide poisoning?
    We are hoping to insert a cartridge wood burning stove into a ten year old apartment that as far as we can see lack an air vent. Would installing a stove with an external air supply mean that we wouldn't have to have an air vent in the room?
    I am concerned that putting in an air vent will potentially introduce lot of cold air into a well sealed room.
    Also any recommendations/advice for a 11k cartridge stove would be appreciated


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,817 ✭✭✭liam7831


    Hi guys, read thread can't find answer. I currently have Kerosene boiler for radiators & hot tank.
    Now I want to replace the open fire with a stove. Should I opt for a kerosene stove with no back boiler? Any recommendations greatly appreciated. In Kildare area if anyone wants to suggest shops dealers etc as I don't know much about these

    Thanks
    Liam


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 KDutchie


    Hi there. I'm looking for a multi fuel stove (non boiler) but I'm slightly restricted in that we have a timber surround on our fireplace. I've been to a few shops now but they are all saying different things! Nobody seems to agree on much. Given its is a timber surround I've been steered towards the Hamlet Solution 5 Inset. This is a nice looking stove with a 10 year guarantee. The other option is an Aarow Ecoburn 5 plus inset. This seems to have a lifetime body guarantee.

    Both are around the 1k mark plus fitting but apparently the Aarow is too wide for the fireplace, given it is the plus version, I haven't found a tech sheet for this to confirm that so I'm only going by what I've been told. What I'm wondering is what is the difference between these 2 stoves, besides the guarantee and a different grate, there seems to be very little. Both are made by Arada but there doesn't seem to be much about the Hamlet on their website. I also can't find a review of the Hamlet or any technical data to check the clearance distance required from the timber surround online. Is Hamlet the cheaper version of the Aarow or are they just different names? Any help would be welcomed. Also, if anyone knows of another stove suitable I'm all ears!

    Thanks!


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Both are very good stoves with great warranties.
    They give such warranties as very little goes wrong with them.
    Only negative is if something does the parts can be quite expensive as I'm sure that guarantee does not cover grates,bricks,baffles etc.
    You would need to find out what the combustible distances are though.
    TBH I would never advise fitting a stove anywhere near timber.


  • Registered Users Posts: 23 KDutchie


    Thanks Sanchez. I think I'll get on to Arada and ask for technical doc's for both stoves. I think I need to see the non combustible distances myself before we decide. It's reassuring to hear from someone else that they're alright stoves. If anyone who has one has any comments I'd be interested also as the reviews are limited.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,463 ✭✭✭fifib


    anyone fitted a cassette stove in an airtight home? we were recommended the Stovax Riva Studio 1 but when we went back to purchase another person said this was not suitable and recommended a Barbas Escamo or Cuatro I cannot recall which one right now. Anyone know anything about these stoves??


  • Registered Users Posts: 229 ✭✭lovehathi


    Hi every one , i have one problem i bought the riva 55 stovax stove and it 8kw and now i calculated my room needs 5-6 kw now the stove is of higher power but i also have open plan kitchen joining to the sitting room which is approx 28 sq ft , now will this cause allot of problem or can how to get only low out put with this stove ?
    thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 277 ✭✭Sanchez83


    Put less fuel in the stove.
    More fuel equals more heat,less fuel equals less heat.


  • Registered Users Posts: 499 ✭✭pcasso


    pcasso wrote: »
    Apologies in advance if I am asking a question that already has been answered but having read a lot of this thread I haven't seen it.
    My query relates to ventilation.
    Is the requirement for ventilation to assist combustion in the stove or is it a safety feature to help combat carbon monoxide poisoning?
    We are hoping to insert a cartridge wood burning stove into a ten year old apartment that as far as we can see lack an air vent. Would installing a stove with an external air supply mean that we wouldn't have to have an air vent in the room?
    I am concerned that putting in an air vent will potentially introduce lot of cold air into a well sealed room.
    Also any recommendations/advice for a 11k cartridge stove would be appreciated
    Bump


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,118 ✭✭✭ABC101


    pcasso wrote: »
    Bump

    I may be wrong,, but I think you can fit a stove up to but not greater than 5Kw into a room which does not have a external vent.

    Once you go above this threshold you either require a vent, or you must put in an external air supply source.

    Otherwise the stove will not work correctly ( due to lack of air / draught) and you run the risk of CO getting into the room.

    The info you supplied seems a bit contradictory, if the apartment is 10 years old it should be well insulated to a high standard anyway. So why put in a stove?

    You will have to put in a Stainless steel liner for the flue. Will the fitters be able to gain access to the roof? I mean how high is the building? Two floors, four floors, six floors?

    Apartments generally do not have much storage space, so where are you going to keep de fuel? Then you have to dispose of hot ash?

    It all depends on your set up, but in general the majority of apartments would not be suitable for a multifuel stoves.

    I love stoves, I think they are great! But the govt are taxing fuel more and more every year, I think given the hassle with bunkering coal, disposable of ash etc the advantages over a gas boiler are narrowing.

    SEAI have a good spreadsheet updated every 3 months giving cost comparisons of fuels, coal is the cheapest, but gas is not far behind.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,884 ✭✭✭Robbie.G


    pcasso wrote: »
    Bump

    A stove must have a permanent air supply for combustion.If you have a stove with external air supply you do not need a vent in the room for the stove


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