Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Home heating automation

Options
1146147148149151

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 954 ✭✭✭ninja 12


    Tado

    People who have installed Tado smart thermostats , are you happy enough with it ?

    I plan to replace my APT timer with the following -

    https://www.screwfix.ie/p/tado-v3-wireless-heating-hot-water-smart-thermostat-starter-kit-white/141kt

    I assume it should be a straightforward enough to swap over .

    All I need is temperature control and app control for when we're not at home .

    I don't have any TRVs , but will probably install some at a later stage .

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    You'll have a spare output relay on the receiver to control hot water separately if your current setup can manage it, and assuming you have a HW cylinder heated by the boiler. If its just the CH that's being controlled, then dropping the Tado receiver in place of the APT is all that's required. The switch marked Heating may be there to provide permanent power to the boiler.



  • Registered Users Posts: 954 ✭✭✭ninja 12


    The switch beside the APT timer powers a circulation pump .

    With the switch in the "off" position , the boiler only heats the water , with the switch in the "on" position , the boiler heats both water and the radiators .



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    Great. I suspected it was an old '1½' zone system, aka gravity system. The Tado can be set up in gravity mode to provide HW only timing, and CH timing with HW, but with two different timers. I'll post details which I've saved somewhere.



  • Registered Users Posts: 954 ✭✭✭ninja 12


    Brilliant,

    Thanks 😊

    I'll probably order the Tado system in the next few days.

    I had a heatmiser SmartStat in my previous house, and really miss the convenience of the app ( and the temperature control)



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    Here's the installation instructions for the extension kit, gravity mode configuration is in section 6. Theres no wiring diagram shown for this mode, but it's simple. In gravity mode the HW relay Normally open (NO) terminal is closed for Either a HW timed event or a CH timed event. The CH NO terminal closes just for CH events. You connect the HW NO terminal to fire the boiler for either timed schedule, and the CH NO terminal is wired to operate the circulation pump.

    https://cdn.brandfolder.io/607DGEMS/as/tqh86npbjjhws5gwkxfncbfh/104172-DIGITAL-WRP01IB01-INSTALLER_MANUAL-TA-UK-00-V2.pdf



  • Registered Users Posts: 954 ✭✭✭ninja 12


    Thanks for the installation instructions .

    I picked up the Tado starter kit today .

    I'll probably ask a friend to help with the wiring (he's an electrician) rather than risk making a mess of it .

    The current setup is that the APT timer turns on the boiler (firebird , outside in a metal enclosure) and a circulation pump which heats the water only .

    The switch on the right turns on or off a second circulation pump which heats the radiators .This second pump doesn't get any power unless the APT timer is set to ON .

    Does it still sound like a straightforward swap over to the TADO to you ?

    I replaced an APT timer with a Heatmiser unit before but it didn't have any zoning , it was just a straight swap .

    Thanks for your help (sorry for the late reply )



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    Straightforward. HW terminal to fire the boiler and its pump, CH terminal to operate the CH pump. Gravity mode will direct both timers, HW and CH, to close the HW Normally Open Contact, so Hot water is heated for either, as it is now, but the CH Normally open terminal will only close for a CH timed/thermostat event with the Tado stat also calling for heat.

    The CH timer is not so much an on off timer as a timed schedule of thermostat settings, say 21° from 8.00 to 10.00, 19° from 10.00 till 13.00, and so on. The schedule is infinitely variable, setting 'Off' is just a case of setting a lower temperature for a give time slot, such as nighttime.

    The Electrician should have no issues, he may be familiar with gravity configuration of two zone controllers whose default configuration is two independent outputs, one for HW and one for CH, which is a simpler concept with two zone valves and independent HW and CH events.

    You can power up the Tado Thermostat and receiver controller (aka the Extension Kit) before wiring up and bench observe the behaviour of the relays as you set CH on by turning up the stat, or setting the HW timer on. The relays will close as described once you configure it to gravity mode, described in section 6.



  • Registered Users Posts: 37 AvalonEnaid


    So I am pretty sure I can adjust the rate at which my boiler burns. I'm using a 3rd party controller and it lets me adjust a whole bunch of things from the burner power to hysteresis to the boiler pump mode.

    I have adjusted the burner max power down to 10% as a test and it definitely didn't heat the water up as quickly compared to 100%.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    I'd assume it achieves power control by duty cycle, modulating the firing on-off in the ratio of 1:9 to limit output and consumption to 10%. These periods could be in seconds, 5 and 45, 20 and 180, or longer. How often you should cycle the ignition and gas valve is up for debate, I'd expect more wear and tear in mechanical components, though they're very robust.

    I'm not aware of a boiler that has a variable burn rate, this would be complex to achieve and maintain efficiency, but I'm sure that dual jet gas boilers exist, everything does somewhere.

    Boilers with return temperature sensors to limit firing until return cools would be better able to achieve condensing. Slower circulation pump flow is helpful to an extent, allowing hot flow to linger longer in rad panels and HW cylinder coils, to achieve cooler return. Sometimes its like chasing shadows though, you only really save energy by being in a colder house.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 954 ✭✭✭ninja 12


    Thank you very much for your help ,

    my friend the electrician will be down in a couple of weeks , and we'll swap over from the APT timer then (peace of mind)



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    Tado announce new X range of smarties. New flavours include.
    🔴 Uses new MATTER protocol, future smart things interoperability. Nest interoperability
    🔵 New Heat pump bridge to smart connect and control HPs.

    🟢 New TRVs with usb charging.

    🟡 New dedicated temperature sensor.

    🟠 Starter kit bridge and Heatpump bridge are router extenders.

    You heard it here first (maybe)
    https://www.theverge.com/2024/5/15/24157114/tado-x-matter-thread-smart-heating-europe-price



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,867 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Thanks.

    Are many using Matter yet? I'm yet to invest in a dongle/bridge.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    Many users or many Smart devices? Nest uses Matter, so I guess Nest stat owners now can install TadoX TRV's and link up

    Post edited by deezell on


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,867 ✭✭✭10-10-20


    Users; I know that all or most vendors are bringing out devices to support Matter, I was just wondering what the general experience is with them and whether it's better than Zigbee or z-wave overall.



  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    I see the new system is incompatible with our existing Tado set-up......



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    In so far as the MATTER bridge can't see the existing Tado 6LoWPAN network, and vice versa, but at the network level above, the App(lication) level, theres scope for connectivity. TAD0 currently integrates with Home, IFTT, etc anyway, so both can be seen by these through their respective bridges If Tado creates an APP that can find both bridge connections (V3 and Matter), the only thing preventing integration would be strategy, not technology. It may not be in that interest to prolong the use of the older kit.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    I certainly wouldn't bank on the current Tado V3 being around for long, notwithstanding promises of support from the company. Prices are already dropping in countries where the 'X System' is being launched. 
    If I had the current system I'd keep an eye out for discounts and snap up a few items, to keep as spares.

    See https://www.tink.at/b/tado



  • Registered Users Posts: 954 ✭✭✭ninja 12


    Great timing as I only bought the V3+ starter kit a couple of weeks ago 😅

    It'll still do the job for me though , not too keen on the look of the new kit , the V3+ looks more understated 😀



  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭TheSunIsShining




  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    Agreed. The range is not yet launched in the UK, and by extension (kit, or lack of it?), it's not launched here other than from .de sites. All the main retailers here are UK based, Screwfix, Currys, Amazon, and even Tado's /ie site has been a fork of their UK site, even listing Irish prices in £, despite protest from ie users.

    There is no extension kit mentioned in the new X range, which begs the question as to how you implement wireless stats if the only actual relay is in the stat itself. The ext kit for UK and here also contained the extra relay for HW zone control, again there is no apparent hard relay receiver.

    As Tado X used the thread and matter protocols, it's probably easy to find a mains relay receiver which can be controlled by a Tado X stat installed without a wired path to a zone valve or boiler. The single stat wireless capability of the V3 Tado was also a source of annoyance to adopters and installers, as three zone timer only CH installations, (Upstairs, Downstairs and HW), could not be easily upgraded as at least one of the two CH zones required a wired route for the thermostat, not a trivial job in an existing house, and a clear competitive disadvantage compared to the Hive or Drayton Wiser all wireless stat design.

    ( I note the new X heatpump bridge may well have 2 mechanical relays, it has a display which announces heating and hot water.)

    Final observation, this all new range allows Tado to revisit their subscription model for the tastier features, a model which fell flat on its face for V3, when V2 users had full feature access for life without a sub. If you recall, they even upgraded the app for V3 users only, V2 could either retain sub free original features on the old app, or pay a once off (€40?) to get the new app with the extra V3 bits. Eventually, running two versions of their app proved impractical and they just hoisted V2 users onto the V3 app fir free. This time they've done their homework, and you might be facing an end of life announcement much further down the road for V3, I wouldn't worry too much tbh.



  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    It would be be some kick in the nuts to be forced to upgrade the full set-up. And a serious kick in the wallet too!



  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    By the way deezell. As the resident expert around these parts on home automation, did you ever encounter or figure this one out? Posted it in another thread but be interested if you have any thoughts....

    I have a pretty standard 190l cylinder with gas as the main heating source - then your bog standard dual immersion which is top entry. I'm about to switch to an EV electric plan and was thinking of using the immersion during the EV rate window - cost per KW is cheaper during that window for electricity than for gas with the added bonus, as I understand it, of pretty much 100% efficiency.

    However, much like the above discussion, what I'm seeing in practice is that the immersion is having zero impact on the temperature probe which controls the call to the gas boiler. That probe is in a thermostat pocket about 1/4 or 1/3 up from the bottom of the cylinder. So clearly the immersion coil ends above that probe. But if I do use the immersion for the 3 hours of the cheap EV electricity, my expectation is that the gas boiler will still receive a call for hear - that controller is a Sonoff which calls if the cylinder is below 40 degrees between 6.45am and 8.30am. Getting the sonoff and having two separate systems came up ages ago here.

    So I'd imagine I could heat using the immersion from 2 to 5am on the cheap EV rate - but at 6.45am the gas will still be called as the water at the probe level will still be below 40c. So it seems similar to the above discussion and wondering, other than a destrat pump or a willis, does anyone have practical experience of solving the riddle....?

    Thanks



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    I suspect you are spot on in regard to the subscription model. More and more companies are moving this way and are also moving to closed API's to block solutions such as Home Assistant. We may not like it, but it seems inevitable.
    One upside is that technology may have a longer lifespan if it earns companies revenue on an ongoing basis.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    The gas will only have to heat the water under the immersion, so will be on fir a lot less time, thus saving you about 5c for each kwh already heated by the electricity (assuming ev 5c, gas 10c per kwh). If your cycling immersion was a 2.5kw element, and the cylinder is large and completely cold, you may get to pull the maximum of 7.5 kwh from the ev 3 hour window, and save 37.5 c each day. Realistically, most of the water above the immersion will probably be decently warm still, maybe 40 - 50° at the top third/quarter, so an injection of a few kwh might be enough to turn off the immersion thermostat, saving you maybe only 10c in total at night. Turning the gas timing off completely, then slowly introducing it when the electrical heated water runs out might be a better strategy move the gas probe to the tank top outlet and set it relatively high, say 55° if there's no higher cylinder probe spot, it can be clamped to the hw exit pipe.



  • Registered Users Posts: 823 ✭✭✭WildCardDoW


    Doesn't the use of Matter negate the argument of closed APIs?



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,458 ✭✭✭NewClareman


    Maybe, maybe not. If one is to believe the hype, Matter heralds the dawn of a new age where all Matter enabled devices can be seamlessly added to any smart home ecosystem/fabric. This is certainly the ideal and would greatly improve adoption and functionality.

    Maybe I'm being too cynical, but I don't expect this to happen. There is simply too much money at stake. Because Matter based devices are intrinsically secured using a Public Key Infrastructure, this opens up the possibility of tightly controlling access. Time will tell.



  • Registered Users Posts: 256 ✭✭TheSunIsShining


    Turning the gas timing off completely, then slowly introducing it when the electrical heated water runs out might be a better strategy move the gas probe to the tank top outlet and set it relatively high, say 55° if there's no higher cylinder probe spot, it can be clamped to the hw exit pipe.

    Hmm. Trying to figure this one out?

    This is complex enough and trying to figure out if it's worth it is another thing too. The EV elec rate is just under 8c for a kw. I reckon, allowing for losses, the rate I have for gas (I managed to gey the platinum Flogas rate) is about 10.5c per KW. So only 2.5c cheaper anyway. So maybe this isn't worth it anyway - or maybe it is - and a bit like yourself, it is as much about the challenge of figuring it out!

    I'll strap my TH16 probe to the hot water pipe at the top of the cylinder to see how good a reading can be got from it. If I was confident that was accurate i could get a second one, measure temps in the probe pocket and at the top and I guess I could potentially try to figure out a scene in Sonoff based on both measures....



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    At 8c the savings are trivial, and non existent if you consider the higher day/peak rate you're paying for other household electricity. That said, if there's fun to be had messing with schedules and stats and automation and probes, then go for it. Is your tank a solid (green) foam encrusted one? You can cut this away a get the probe above the immersion element.



  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 6,594 ✭✭✭deezell


    So I asked if the same app is used for X, and can it see both V3 and X configurations. The answer is yes and no, the app can only add an X configured bridge or a V3. Just as you couldn't have two bridges or extension kits on a V2/3 Tado account. You can open a seperate account with a different login, and have two instance of the App, one for X and one for V3. this allows you to control either, but without interoperability between the apps. You could of course have an X zone calling the same boiler as a V3 zone using the standard S plan joint relay switching of the boiler via zone valves, just as you could have Hive downstairs and Tado upstairs with different apps. Heres what they said;

    Hello D ,Thank you for contacting us.We’re happy to hear that you’re interested in tado° X! As you may know, tado° X expands smart home climate control to heat pumps as well as boilers and radiators, and uses Matter and Thread technologies to interface with smart home platforms like Alexa, Apple Home or Google Home.However, it’s important to point out that tado° X is not compatible with earlier tado° devices.They use two different technology platforms and can’t be used together on the same account.Technically it’s possible to create two tado° accounts, one to control tado° V3+ devices and one to control tado° X devices within the same home.However, this is not how the products were designed and the two product lines will still not interact with each other, so it's not the best user experience to mix and match.In general, we encourage customers who already own tado° products from the V3+ or earlier lines to keep the setups they have and expand their setups with tado° V3+ products as needed, which we will continue to improve and support.The other option is to switch your tado° setup entirely from a V3+ Home to a tado° X Home.If you are interested in upgrading your whole tado° setup, you can sign up on the waiting list to receive a personalized upgrade offer.

    Kind regards,Rastko



Advertisement