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Retrofitting

24

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,516 ✭✭✭hesker


    You can get an independent assessment done and report issued. You can then give that report to several one stop shops and ask for a detailed quote. There is a grant for this but you will have to wait for the official kick off if you want to claim it I hear sometime in Mar mentioned

    At the moment they are prioritising lower rated houses so quite likely changing windows would be required.

    Each potential improvement measure will be listed indicating the gain to be achieved. There is a sample report on the SEAI website.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 924 ✭✭✭okedoke


    Thanks Hesker - so the homeowner could select from the menu of upgrades to get to the reqd Ber?



  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators, Social & Fun Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 6,914 Mod ✭✭✭✭shesty


    Is there a time limit on these?

    They appear to be saying your home must achieve a B2 rating when you finish all your works, to claim/keeo your grant.We have a 1960s dormer, leaking air everywhere.We need to externally wrap it, do the attic and probably sort the heating, at the very least.We are both construction professionals -not contractors ourselves, but have access to different contractors through work and past jobs. Realistically we don't have the money for all of this right now.So if you go for the one stop shop, and just do the external wrap, but then decide you are going to wait and in 5 years time, go elsewhere for your attic (or do it yourself)...how does that work?Do you have to go back to the one stop shop for all of the elements?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,516 ✭✭✭hesker


    That’s my take on it. I asked one assessor if I really needed a heat pump and he said not necessarily. It depends on the assessment. Also depends on what you want and what’s your starting point.

    You can see a lot of the documentation if you click on “Register as a one stop shop” and look at the downloads.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 924 ✭✭✭okedoke


    Great thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,516 ✭✭✭hesker


    There was before but there might not be on this wave. Will have to wait to see.

    There are individual grants that the homeowner can claim and that might suit you better.

    The one stop shop route seems to be for the bigger projects and you must get to B2 within the one project



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,391 ✭✭✭olestoepoke


    According to the lady on RTE retrofitting our homes will only cost an extra one euro a month, hilarious altogether.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 697 ✭✭✭PaddyCar


    Anyone an idea on the cost of a heat pump technical assessment? I believe you get the €200 back only if you go through with heat pump.



  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭cloughy


    From what i have been told the technical assessment would be circ 500/600 ex vat.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 393 ✭✭Biker1


    Depends on the house. Typically €300 plus the price of the BER if one not already done. 500/600 plus vat at 23% is a rip off.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,051 ✭✭✭gooner99


    I have no experience. With regards to the technical assessment and BER. Do you need to choose the provider carefully or do they all have the same experience/training and follow the same procedure/reporting?



  • Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭cloughy


    Can you advise someone who would do it for 300, as I googled a few and those that had prices the tests and recommendations, etc were 500/600, for a 4 bed semi.

    Thought it expensive, but I suppose if BER is few hundred, then technical assessment I would assume requires more time and equipment, but maybe I'm wrong.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,004 ✭✭✭mitresize5


    Months later and still no one stop shops announced

    really caught here now - deep retrofit and extension ready to go to tender but caught waiting for a one stop shop to PM the SEAI side

    Madness why yuo cant get the full suite of grants outside the one stop shop process

    Asked the SEAI guy at the Ideal Homes expo and he said 'end of April ... hopefully'



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,051 ✭✭✭gooner99


    One stop shop list now live. All of five companies listed.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Remember when these SEAI “Experts” advise you that the be best thing for YOU for your house is to wrap it in External Insulation.

    If your home has a Cavity constructed external wall with gables, then the cavity of the gable walls are normally not closed, so the NEW external insulation will be redundant, even if you do obtain an ‘A’ BER Cert.

    When Heat gets a choice of escaping by either Conduction OR Convection, Convection always wins. (up up and away) 🔥🔥🔥



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭FrankN1


    Anyone have any success with One Stop Shop? I presume it's the only way to go if you have a few jobs that need to be done.



  • Registered Users Posts: 12 acolmanj


    Hi FrankN1,

    I'm in the same boat. I just emailed all the one stop shops on the SEAI website list. I got the technical BER report separately. Will see what they propose.

    Don't have a clue who is good yet.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    That’s a bit of generalisation to suggest the ewi is ‘redundant’. If the gable is a concern then add insulation to the inside of the gable up say a 1m distance, thus mitigating the thermal conduction.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    BryanF

    I do not understand what remedy you are Specifying. Please explain what you are Specifying with your above comment and as follows:-?

    ”If the gable is a concern then add insulation to the inside of the gable up say a 1m distance, thus mitigating the thermal conduction”???????



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,021 ✭✭✭FrankN1


    Is there anyway to know which is the best value provider?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,137 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Do you know of any mitigations for this?

    Is it possible/practical to close the cavity?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Lumen

    BryanF offered a solution above on 24 April at 11.58. But I cannot understand what is stated. I replied and am waiting on a reply from BryanF.

    Yes it’s possible to close the cavity on top of the gables and any other openings in the cavities.

    My main concern is that the ventilation of the cavity prevents an increase in the moisture content of the First Floor joists ends which are built in to the inner leaf and in older houses the joist ends were not protected. The ventilation of the cavity prevents Dry Rot in the joists. This dampness enters the cavity below the DPC, and may also be caused by ingress of rainwater. The damp air in the cavity is increased in temperature by the heat loss from the house which heats the damp air in the cavity. The warm air Must rise up by Convection and this ventilates the damp air out of the cavities 24/7 and reduced the Relative Humidity of the cavity. (As a radio DJ says”its Magic” 😂😂)

    Furthermore, it would necessitate a scaffolding, and the slates /tiles above the gable would need to be removed and the felt/ membrane cut out to get access to the open cavity of the concrete block walls to seal the Cavity.

    Firstly this is very expensive and secondly I would not recommend this under any circumstances and thirdly I would not allow the SEAI /FAS expert EWI installers near any roof.

    You also asked “are there any mitigations for this”.

    Yes, everything is possible in buildings. €€€€€€€€€

    My simple solution to stop warm air escaping from a ventilated cavity and making the EWI redundant, is to fill the cavity with an approved Insulation in accordance with the manufactures instructions.

    This will cause the heat from the house - which is now prevented from escaping by Convection in the cavity - and Must escape through the wall and EWI by Conduction.

    Obviously it’s not Magic - it’s Building Science.

    I would love to hear the comments from the SEAI/FAS Expert EWI Insulation Installers to this solution, when you explain to them about the ventilated cavity, and Convection and that you want the cavity filled. Please post their comments here in this Forum. Now that would be Magic 🪄 🧙‍♀️. 😂😂😂😂😂.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,137 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    But all NSAI certs for EWI detail the required bead filling of existing cavities, so...



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    I understand that.

    But there are thousands of houses in Ireland where the cavities are not filled and EWI has been fitted, and updated BER Certs are issued.

    And there will be many more houses in the future in Ireland with unfilled open cavities - fitted with EWI.

    There are no Professionals with PI Insurance involved. When professionals with PI Insurance - have to sign a Certificate - they WILL ensure that they are not committing an act of Negligence.

    When you are dealing with human beings you must always expect incompetence.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,137 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Oh right, I naively assumed people would follow basic instructions 😀



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    ‘Thousands’? And they got the grant? Show us proof of this please?

    Assuming with ewi that the cavity is pumped. this last post seems to be the first mention of un-filled cavity in the thread. And therefore there should be minimal/ no moment of air in the cavity

    if you add insulation to the inside of the gable wall, from ceiling insulation vertically up the inside of the gable wall, by say 1m - that would mitigate the majority of heat loss from the cavity wall block work.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    BryanF

    Proof-

    You want proof. There are many houses in Ireland with redundant EWI. That is a fact. The statistics for this won’t be available until the Government have to foot the bill for all the houses that are retrofitted with EWI where there is a ventilated cavity and the EWI redundant, and the homeowners with bank loans to pay for the EWI, will be putting pressure on the Government to rectified the heat loss problem from the ventilated cavity.

    The ventilated cavity will need to be filled to resolve the problem.

    At least it will be a cheaper to rectify than the Mica or Pyrite problems. And of course you can’t get proof of the total number of houses affected by Mica, as these figures won’t be available for many years either.


    Grants-

    Yes they got grants.

    BER Assessor inspected the EWI and issued upgraded BER Cert.

    Most of the Assessors won’t know about the heat loss from the ventilated cavity, and most Assessors cannot check to ascertain if the cavity is filled.


    Filled Cavities-

    I do not understand what point you are making in relation to the first mention of unfilled cavities in the thread. So what? I have mentioned the problem with EWI on a home with vented cavities in many queries.

    The majority of people with EWI don’t know about heat loss from ventilated cavities.

    Yes you are correct that if a cavity is pumped and filled - then with most types of cavity fill there won’t be any movement of air. And of course there won’t be any cavity either.


    Insulation Gable Walls in the Attic:-

    The point you made on 24th inst at 11.58 above was a ambiguous, and there was me thinking you had a solution, so I asked you to clarify what you meant. You have clarified that above where you stated as follows:-

    “if you add insulation to the inside of the gable wall, from ceiling insulation vertically up the inside of the gable wall, by say 1m - that would mitigate the majority of heat loss from the cavity wall block work”

    I take this to mean that you are advising to insulated the inner face of the concrete block walls in the uninhabited Attic from the ceilings (of the living areas) up to the rafters.

    This cannot work under any circumstances because of Building Science.

    1. Fixing insulation on to the inner face of the wall in the Attic will result in Zilch reduction of heat loss from a ventilated cavity.
    2. No person would ever insulate the inner wall of the gables in a BR ventilated uninhabited Attic. (IWI)😂.
    3. This would be a total waste of time and money
    4. It would serve no purpose whatsoever.
    5. The air in a BR ventilation Attic will be almost the same temperature of the external air temperature if not the same temperature.
    6. Heat in air and liquids must flow towards cooler air. When equilibrium temperature is reached heat flow will cease.
    7. If there is no differences in the temperatures in the Attic and the external atmosphere then there will be no heat loss or very little heat loss from the Attic. Assuming the Attic in a Retrofitted Attic is now insulated and ventilated to the Building Regulations.
    8. Heat is highly intelligent. Never makes any mistakes whatsoever. It will always escape by Convection when given a choice. Convection is very simple. For heat to escape by Conduction is very hard work.
    9. Heat will never flow through the walls by Convection in a ventilation attic. It will be up up and away by Convection in a puff of the ventilation air.
    10. For example -take a room which is very well insulated and air-tight all round, and if the temperature is lower outside, the heat in the room must escape by Conduction. If windows and doors in the room are opened Conduction will cease immediately and heat loss by Convection will take place immediately and only cease when the room air is the same temperatures as the external atmosphere - in minutes.
    11. In a BR ventilated Attic the heat cannot go through the gable walls by Conduction- even if you could bribe it.
    12. Furthermore no matter how much you lower the U value of the Gable walls in a BR ventilation uninhabited attic, the heat loss from the habitable part of the house with EWI and a Ventilated Cavity, will be exactly the same and will be by Conduction through the inner leaf of the wall and through the cavity insulation, when the heat loss enters the ventilated cavity it will cease Conduction and commence Convection and MUST follow the warm air upwards and escape at the top of the open cavity in to the external atmosphere. It’s not Magic- it’s Building Science.
    13. The approx €30,000 worth of EWI will be Redundant.
    14. There is only simple solution that can be completed by the SEAI/FAS Insulation Experts, and that is to fill the Cavity with Approved Insulation in accordance with the Manufactures Instructions.




  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dag12


    I got through to one of "one stop shops". They're arranging the technical assessment 625€. I already had detailed SEAI BER assessment with recommendations however they claim that technical assessment is more detailed and required.

    So thats expense number one. Like many others I plan major renovations including an extension, so I don't know how to piece it all together. I am hoping getting heat controls, new boiler and attic insulation will be enough for reaching B2. Then I can get rid of one stop shop and get builders to do the rest.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    Dag12

    If your house needs refurbishment internally, consider fitting internal insulation to all external walls. New slabs to internal walls and few slaps over the slabs on the ceilings. 3 mm skim of hardwall new skirting boards and architraves - and you have a new looking

    You will need to fit slabs with 20 mm insulation to internal concrete block walls built in to the existing walls to prevent a cold bridge.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,410 ✭✭✭dathi


    1. If there is no differences in the temperatures in the Attic and the external atmosphere then there will be no heat loss or very little heat loss from the Attic. Assuming the Attic in a Retrofitted Attic is now insulated and ventilated to the Building Regulations.

    there is a difference the air in the attic and the external atmosphere that is why when we are doing a uvalue calculation we allocate it a resistance

    taken from Part L building regulations appendix A calculation of U values

    "Resistance of roof space 0.200" 



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    C. Eastwood

    no facts/studies/papers have been offered re seai ewi faults or failings.

    you appear to be misunderstanding the point I’m making about re gable ends. Let’s just agaree the basics. if ewi is installed, the cavity should be filled. Ewi is arguably the best method for improving an existing buildings thermal envelope. The gable end detail can be resolved, it’s straight forward.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    daithi

    My reply was in relation to heat loss in an EWI house from a Ventilation Cavity where insulating the Inner-face of the external wall in the BR vented Attic was mentioned.

    A Construction Professional specifying this construction to a Client would be committing an act of Negligent.

    It should be axiomatic to a normal minded person [(should but?)] from reading my reply/s that I have an understanding of U Values, K values, etc, and the Building Regulations and Technical Guidance Documents, and Building Science and construction etc.

    This Forum is also used by laypersons looking for simple uncomplicated unambiguous advice, and it is unethical of professionals to be giving links to the Building Regulations or Technical Guidance Documents to lay persons. Notwithstanding the fact many construction workers wouldn’t understand many of the Regulations or TGD’s.

    Your comment-

    • “There is a difference the air in the attic and the external atmosphere”

    Every laypersons would be very aware of that wonderful scientific fact..

    I have never seen a U value carried out on the membrane/ felt and slates/tiles on a uninhabited BR Attic, and it would be less useful than the redundant EWI on a Ventilated cavity and similarly as useless as the proposed internal insulation fitted on the inner face of a gable wall in a BR ventilated Attic void.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,652 ✭✭✭Wildly Boaring




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,305 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    "it is unethical of professionals to be giving links to the Building Regulations or Technical Guidance Documents to lay persons"

    It hasnt stopped you in the past 😁



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    muffler

    Firstly I’m delighted that you are reading and - most importantly remembering all my comments, and possibly maybe trying to find faults with what I state.

    Extracting a relevant small section of a page of a TGD for the purpose of /and explaining to a lay person what is meant by it - is not the same as giving a link to an entire 98 page very complicated complete document, which many professionals have a problem trying to fathom.

    Also, it is axiomatic that a person giving the link to these complicated technical documents are possibly not capable of extracting the relevant page or section required.

    TGD L (2019) contains 98 pages of complicated technical details, and there are 6 previous TGD Part L which may also be relevant, depending on the age of the building, and some construction professionals don’t understand these.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,410 ✭✭✭dathi


    It should be axiomatic to a normal minded person [(should but?)] from reading my reply/s that I have an understanding of U Values, K values, etc, and the Building Regulations and Technical Guidance Documents, and Building Science and construction etc.

    how about psi values

    it is unethical of professionals to be giving links to the Building Regulations or Technical Guidance Documents to lay persons. Notwithstanding the fact many construction workers wouldn’t understand many of the Regulations or TGD’s.

    Pius vii "For you should have kept before your eyes the warnings which Our predecessors have constantly given, namely, that, if the sacred books are permitted everywhere without discrimination in the vulgar tongue, more damage will arise from this than advantage" pretty much what the catholic hierarchy was saying in 1816 or is it that you dont like our books being used to refute your advise



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,141 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    the more someone claims to be an expert, the more someone comes across as a troll. everything about this posting style and approach suggests maybe a college student or a disgruntled DIY builder. Nothing to date suggests any depth of knowledge or understanding of building regulations. The earlier Sales pitch has now morphed into a more bullish style, where the goal posts are moved each time a post is challenged.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,858 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    @C. Eastwood, if you wouldn't mind will you clarify something for me because I am a wee bit confused by your comments and emoji's etc.

    I have a cavity walled house (bungalow) with 3 gable walls. The attic space is uninhabited, unheated and well ventilated. The cavities have been pumped with certified bonded bead insulation to the ridge. The walls have also been externally insulated (200mm rockwool).

    Do you see any point in adding insulation to the inner leaf of the gable cavity walls in the attic?



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    MicktheMan

    Please excuse the childish Emoji’s etc. When one is dealing with ridiculous silly childish replies and comments- it’s necessary to try to think as a child.

    Congratulations, you have one of the best insulated houses describe here. It must be a very warm house, and very cheap to heat. Well done.

    NO do not fix any insulation to the inside face of the inner leaf of the concrete block wall in the attic, as it would be totally redundant and a complete waste of money, and serve no purpose whatsoever.

    I was discussing this totally ridiculous suggestion, as it was recommended by someone else, in opposition to some of my comments.

    Kind Regards

    C.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,410 ✭✭✭dathi


    well played micktheman that pretty much answered bryanF last post



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,859 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    @C. Eastwood , I'm a bit confused as well, maybe I'm reading @MicktheMan's set-up wrong.

    As I see it it;

    (open to correction of course)


    So you are saying the cold gable wall in the loft will not be a problem in the room below?

    Post edited by chooseusername on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,858 ✭✭✭MicktheMan


    "NO do not fix any insulation to the inside face of the inner leaf of the concrete block wall in the attic, as it would be totally redundant and a complete waste of money, and serve no purpose whatsoever."

    So what about the thermal bridge?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,859 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    "So what about the thermal bridge?"

    It's axiomatic.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 757 ✭✭✭C. Eastwood


    chooseusername

    Your answers are so long and so full of technological details - and are difficult for me to follow 😂😂 and read. Easy to know that you have put a substantial amount of research and logic and a lot of thought in to your query and apparently will only want to criticise my reply. 😂😂

    I first assumed that you were asking a genuine question, but from reading other posts here it appears that you are only acting the Wally (nice word) with the rest of the clique.

    Your comment as follows:-

    maybe I'm reading @MicktheMan's set-up wrong. And Well played Mick…………

    “Set up” and “Well Played” This carry on by the clique is disgraceful and unbelievable so say the least, in this Forum where genuine people ask Real questions- and under normal circumstances should be entitled to and given free expert advice here. But unfortunately there are human beings involved, and as a friend of mine always says about some humans - “expect nothing from a Pig except a Grunt, and you shall never be disappointed”.

    And someone else in the forum instructed me to “grow up”. 😂😂😂

    However there are normal minded people readings this and I will continue to provide them with correct information requested by them.

    I will use very nice words here which will not allow the clique to achieve their goal of - to be able to ban me from the forum, no matter how much they try.

    it is not my fault that people here are discommoded (another new word for you to use 😂😂) because their EWI is redundant with their vented cavities. They themselves caused this problem. It is what it is. (Good advice here - only get advice from Construction Professionals). They could have availed of my expert free advise here in this forum😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂

    I am delighted that I have expanded your vocabulary and you will now be able to be significant and impress your friends no ends with this New big word.

    It is axiomatic 😂😂😂 that yourself and the clique want me to answer your query as follows:-

    So you are saying the cold gable wall in the loft will not be a problem in the room below?

    I didn’t say that. If I did I would have to clarify the ‘Problem’

    In the funny sketch you displayed, there will never be a problem in the room below from a Cold Bridge. Condensation will never occur unless you were running a Laundrette and drying all the clothes on the Radiator in the room with the windows and door of the unvented room closed. Otherwise there will not be a condensation problem.

    and no - you will not freeze to death in the room- no worries matey 🦘🦘🦘. Any person can stay in the room all day long very worried about the few half-watts heat loss up through the “thermal bridge”.

    What is the best advice yourself and Mick would give in relation to the thermal bridge to a human being in the room getting ‘Paralysis by Analysis’ over the few watts escaping up their thermal bridge as per your sketch. It might be best to instruct them to insulate the entire wall in the Attic to stop them from worrying and might be cheaper than getting and treating mental health problems.

    Mick thinks it’s a thermal bridge and maybe it’s a cold bridge, what do you diagnose? 😂😂

    Micktheman is getting very excited about a “thermal bridge”.

    I was going to ask the clique a Question - to explain to me the difference between A Cold Bridge and a Thermal Bridge, but it would probably cause Google to crash😂😂. -TV/Google/ Bannon/theory - Insulation/ cold bridge/thermal bridge experts 😂😂😂😂

    Before one of you gets excited about the thermal bridge /cold bridge, and all the terrible heat loss of the few half watts as per your sketch there are many other factors. Thousands of houses were built to the 1992 BR which requires a 5000 mm2 permanent background vent in all habitable rooms, many houses had 1 or 2 open fireplaces. All houses must have purge ventilation as required by the BR. The back and front doors are opened many many times each day so that most of the heat loss from the room (down under) will occur by Convection and maybe-just maybe a silly smidgen of a few watts of heat from the room might go up through the inner leaf of the wall by Conduction OR maybe cold might travel down the inner leaf ☃️☃️☃️

    And yourself and mick (genuinely😂😂) wishes to know if the uninsulated wall of the attic above the ceiling insulation in your sketch is a cold bridge and /or thermal bridge - of course it is. Most parts of the house are a Cold Bridge and a Thermal Bridge, and heat must flow out if there is colder air outside. So you decide where the thermal bridge/cold bridge starts or ends.

    Its not Magic- it’s Building Science, and needs to be examined by Cost Analysis Benefit - how much expensive thermal insulation do you install to prevent small heat loss occurring. 🔥-v- €€.

    You asked the question about my advice in relation to adding more insulation to the wall in your sketch, although I believe it is not a genuine question and is only asked for an ulterior motives- for the clique - I will answer it for the Genuine people reading it- there is no need to add any more insulation in the attic to the inner face of the wall leaf at the attic side to reduce the heat loss in the Thermal Bridge. No matter how much insulation you add you cannot eliminate the Thermal Bridge.

    Now matter what thickness of EWI is installed together with super cavity fill insulation together with excellent internal wall insulation - the external walls will always be a Thermal Bridge. This is Building Science.

    And bear in mind that in Ireland we have a very mild climate.

    Here are some Excellent BR drawings from Homebond Right on the Site leaflets.

    New houses should be done accordingly to comply with the BR.

    In renovating an existing house, the way it’s shown on your funny sketch is perfectly fine.

    I can’t wait for all the Scientific detailed replies I will receive, to increase my thermal insulation knowledge. 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🙊🙈🙉



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 441 ✭✭WacoKid


    So, embarking on a deep retrofit albeit very early stages.

    My current approach will be to use the one stop shop provider to provide project management only to the SEAI related work, circa 5k post specific grant for this aspect. You have to use them for processing the grants and there are about 5 of them on the SEAI website. They will ensure full certication though so big piece of mind there, hopefully! I will not rely on them to provide the sub contractors though.

    I will then ask my builder to do all the work and to quote for SEAI and non-SEAI work seperately. SEAI will pay him for the grant related work and I will pay him directly for the non grant related work. Builder has to ensure all SEAI work is undertaken by approved contractors so the onus is on him here.

    One Stop Shop provider will ask me for the cost of the grant specific work upfront minus the grants to be applied, and then they pay the builder the full amount when work completes.

    This hybrid payment method may be a common scenario for builders in the future.

    Post edited by WacoKid on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,859 ✭✭✭chooseusername


    @WacoKid , might I suggest starting a dedicated thread for this, and keep it updated as you progress.

    This one got contaminated and your experience would only get lost here.

    Hopefully the cowboys will leave it to genuinely interested posters wishing to follow you along the way.

    Good luck with it by the way.



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Science, Health & Environment Moderators Posts: 18,151 Mod ✭✭✭✭DOCARCH


    Mod Note: @C. Eastwood Good information and diverse opinions as always welcome. Belittling the opinions of others and your increasingly hostile (to others) posting style not welcome. Also cut out all the 😂😂😂 !



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 441 ✭✭WacoKid



    Will do once the ball is rolling. 4-6 week wait with One Stop Shop providers for engagement, and then same for a formal quote on the technical assessment undertaken.



  • Registered Users Posts: 26 Dag12


    That's a very interesting approach.

    I am planning house renovation as well as some energy upgrades.

    My issue is that I haven't hired a building to do my house renovations yet but I am engaging with One Stop Shop. I wonder if I should engage with a building company and try to link them up. I have no idea how to even start looking for a building company to renovate the property, as I was planning to commence search later in the year.



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