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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    how do i get rid of these type of marks, its like harden tar or something

    tar2.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,644 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    fryup wrote: »
    how do i get rid of these type of marks, its like harden tar or something

    tar2.jpg

    Underground car park???


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    It looks like a lime deposit to me. CarPro Spotless or Gtechniq Water Spot Remover are the type of products you need.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    where can i purchase them in ireland? p&p has gone through the roof on amazon


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    Gtechniq Water Spot Remover from D&D in Cork

    CarPro Spotless from Reflect Auto Care in Dublin.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Washed and waxed the car this weekend and noticed this above the rear window on the panel.

    It looks like fading from suncream perhaps would anyone know if a machine polish would fix this as I want to send the car in to be detailed soon

    Dull spot https://imgur.com/a/fRhh9c5


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,644 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Washed and waxed the car this weekend and noticed this above the rear window on the panel.

    It looks like fading from suncream perhaps would anyone know if a machine polish would fix this as I want to send the car in to be detailed soon

    Dull spot https://imgur.com/a/fRhh9c5

    I'm afraid to say, possible worst case, lacquer starting to lift... Reds are notorious....

    Detailer should be able to sand back and blend.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    I was hoping that's not the case. As it will probably start to take over the whole car will it?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    I was hoping that's not the case. As it will probably start to take over the whole car will it?

    That's what happened my red car years ago. T-Cut that wasn't removed correctly ate through the laquer. It was a small spot. Then a big spot. Could you sand, prime, spray, and then hit it with some 2k clear coat?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,195 ✭✭✭padyjoe


    I want to go over rubber seals on the car, the most simple thing I can use is glycerine. What you are using to keep them flexible, avoid going dry?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,189 ✭✭✭Stallingrad


    padyjoe wrote: »
    I want to go over rubber seals on the car, the most simple thing I can use is glycerine. What you are using to keep them flexible, avoid going dry?

    Gummi pledge or AG vinyl and rubber care are both excellent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,644 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    I was hoping that's not the case. As it will probably start to take over the whole car will it?

    Worst case yes but your far from that.

    Best is shade as much as possible, treat it with a good sealant, wax or ceramic etc this will help in many cases.

    As you getting detailed see if they can sort for you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    vectra wrote: »
    That's almost precisely what I did.
    Now it is back to swirley again.

    Looks like no good solution then. If there's scratches after polishing the pillars and putting C4 on them, what hope have we.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,584 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    myshirt wrote: »
    Looks like no good solution then. If there's scratches after polishing the pillars and putting C4 on them, what hope have we.

    PPF as someone suggested.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    vectra wrote: »
    PPF as someone suggested.

    I can picture myself slicing into the trim as I try cut the ppf :D ... unless I can make a template... but it's a good idea. Polish them up and then put them under a layer.

    Was looking for a product for the interior plastic trim also. Zaino have a plastic polish product which I didn't even know existed, despite all the time Zaino are around. Koch K seem to have a product too.

    As is the problem with detailing... I'll end up buying them all! :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,584 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    myshirt wrote: »
    I can picture myself slicing into the trim as I try cut the ppf :D ... unless I can make a template... but it's a good idea. Polish them up and then put them under a layer.

    Was looking for a product for the interior plastic trim also. Zaino have a plastic polish product which I didn't even know existed, despite all the time Zaino are around. Koch K seem to have a product too.

    As is the problem with detailing... I'll end up buying them all! :)

    Ah, I think you would have to be really careless or clumsy tocut into the trim. :pac:

    Often pondered using Zaino products but always seemed to go other directions.

    The slippery sloap of detailing, " suddenly need every product we see" :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,244 ✭✭✭limnam


    Anyone use a no rinse wash to prepare before washing the car?


    If so anything you recommend that can be got in Ireland?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Almost impossible to source Autosmart Tardis. Stuff must be rightly toxic. No one will ship.

    On a separate note, looking for a good tar remover and fallout remover that's safe to run off on chrome, plastic, rubbers. Obviously wouldn't let it dry, but it would run off while dwelling. I've an 8 year old Audi to wash that I'd say has never ever been washed, decontaminated, or clayed. But amazingly there is a mark of what looks like oil (or a tar remover!) on the wing mirrors. Some heavy chemical anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    CarPro Tar X now has fallout remover in it so it removes tar along with bonded contaminants. Gtechniq Tar and Glue remover is also another option.

    I never really like Tardis. I found that it always dried up very quickly before I got a chance to do anything else.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    You'll be best to get tardis off an auto smart rep, it's good but more of a quick job trade product. Spray, wipe and it evaporates. A lot safer options out there now


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    PsychoPete wrote: »
    You'll be best to get tardis off an auto smart rep, it's good but more of a quick job trade product. Spray, wipe and it evaporates. A lot safer options out there now

    It's cheap though, about 35 euro for 5L.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,611 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Personal favourite for dreaded tar is Vasco mighty stuff the longer it's left on the more effective it is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    Seen reflect auto care doing 25% off everything this weekend with code REFLECT25 except for electrical stuff, might be of interest to some of ye



  • Registered Users Posts: 77 ✭✭Manutd623


    Hi all,

    I’m thinking of buying a dual action polisher. What would be the best machine for a beginner? What polish and pads would you recommend for doing a single stage polish?

    Thanks in advance



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Is everyone else's car absolutely destroyed in bugs and flies in this hot weather? My front grille and my wing mirrors got absolutely hammered. Nearly four hits of AF Citrus and probably only 50% removed, and that was after light agitation.

    Proceeded to use some VP Citrus neat on a microfiber to spot treat. Still not there. I'll need something better. Probably have to claybar it at this point!


    What is everyone using for big removal? If someone can recommend a reliable product I'm gonna buy 10 litres and pour it over the car!



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    How long is a piece of string... the general principle is to start with the least aggressive option and then step it up gradually.


    Get yourself a basic DA (Dual Action) polisher. You can't go wrong with that really. Make sure your car is washed and decontaminated and also know you won't knock it out in a weekend, this is a bit by bit job and it's back breaking work at times but thoroughly enjoyable. Check out Chemical Guys polish and pad combos. Maybe that's a good entry point. One of the lads here will know better but there is literally a million and one options when you get deep into this rabbit hole.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    Everyone has there favourite polish and pads, I use a forced rotation or rotary polisher with menzerna polishes and shinemate pads. You often see the likes of the das6 polishers,250ml polishes and pads included in the one kit which might be a good buy for someone starting out



  • Registered Users Posts: 77 ✭✭Manutd623


    Thanks, ya I have all the other equipment for washing, claying etc. Always keep my car clean but have never polished before, just have to buy a polisher and pads, was thinking of getting the das pro 6 but seems to out of stock on most sites. Will take a look at the chemical guys stuff. Thanks



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,584 ✭✭✭✭vectra




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Hi all,


    I used to use a guy on here's shop, Curran or Curren I think, looks like that's gone, is there a place ye'd recommend these days? Autopia any good?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭high horse


    I ordered from Autopia once, never again. They substitute things without consulting the customer, the order took ages to arrive. I would order from D&D instead



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Thanks @high horse



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,261 ✭✭✭Shlippery


    Yea, Detailing Shed was currans shop,it was a great spot. I find Reflect Autocare very good as an alternative..they're a sound bunch up in Dublin. Gave good few recommendations when drove into em.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    Autopia were a bit of a disaster when I used them, I use D&D,wash me and reflect auto care now



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,270 ✭✭✭RainInSummer


    Cheers lads.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭rodge123


    Applied Collinite 845 to the car about a month ago out of curiosity. Usually used C2V3.

    Good bit of driving done the last month and was amazed how clean it still looked (wheels were fairly manky alright)

    Washed it today and it was so easy, was good beading after rinsing off the Bilt Hamber snow foam.

    Little less beading rinsing off Bilt Hamber hand wash.

    Car is shining again after wash. Looks like still wax on it.

    Definitely seems to repel dirt better than the c2v3 for me.

    How long it lasts, time will tell.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    what's the best method of getting hardened tree sap off bodywork? used various sprays none of them effective😕



  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭pafro


    which Bilt Hamber foam did you use? auto-foam or touch-less?



  • Registered Users Posts: 99 ✭✭pafro




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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,464 ✭✭✭rodge123




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,272 ✭✭✭✭Atomic Pineapple


    Not sure this is worth its own thread so posting in here, can move out if required.

    Bought a 2017 car and it is in really great condition but would like see about sorting out the few dings and scratches that are on it. There are a few tiny dings, scratches and chips in it. And then it would be great to get a full detail on it to get the paint work as new as possible.

    I looked up a few places the amount of options and things you can pick was overwhelming. I'm wondering what sort of option people would recommend looking into? And also looking for recommendations for places that are good quality in the north east.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,067 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    nah, didn't work either😕 BUT i did find a solution - nail polish remover & a lot of elbow grease😎



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,343 ✭✭✭Sean Quagmire


    Well lads.

    have had zero time to do a proper job on my car the last year or so. Did a quick wash n’wax over the weekend just to get something on the paint. Badly needs a polish. Plan of attack next chance I get, AG HD wash, clay bar, megs ultimate compound which I have and then seal/wax with SOMETHING.

    ive nothing in the shed in regard to waxes/ sealants so open to suggestions. My go to was Hydro h20 spray which I absolutely loved. Is that still rated here? It really was a class product. But don’t mind hand waxing either. Cheers



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    You can't go wrong Gtechniq c2v3, really excellent product! I use Geyon Wet Coat for a spray and rinse product. For a wax I use Bilt Hamber Double Speed or Geyon Wax



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,299 ✭✭✭SCOOP 64


    I have been using Autoglym super rasin polish with Autoglym extra gloss protection for years only because i seem to get a gift pack every birthday, but now im running low, can anyone recommend anything better or should i stick with it ,thanks.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 5,116 ✭✭✭job seeker


    Just a quick one folks. I want to buy a snow foam lance for my Karcher K2 compact.

    Should I go genuine or spurious?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    The mjjc v2 is a very good snow foam lance



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,116 ✭✭✭job seeker


    Hi Pete thanks for the recommendation. Although I'm only very new to valeting. It'd just be for my own car and parents. So wasn't looking to spend that much, I was hoping for a cheaper alternative to the genuine Karcher K2 snow foam lance if I didn't really need to go for the genuine part to begin with. However, I would settle for the genuine part if it was the better option on the cheaper end of the scale.. Thanks.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 28,624 Mod ✭✭✭✭Cass


    Genuine. Cry once and buy the right one. I've seen spurious ones leak, not fit right, and break in the short term. Costs more to bin it and buy a second time than to just buy "right" from the off. Had to do the same myself as my Kranzle washer only uses its own lances/snow foam guns due tot he hexagonal shape of the inner pieces meaning its €80 for the genuine one vs €25 for the spurious however the spurious ones are circular so leak when attached.

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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,011 ✭✭✭PsychoPete


    I've a cheap ebay lance,mjjc lance,autoglym polar blaster and one I bought from D&D about 7 years ago. The MJJC is the best of the bunch and no issues so. I did convert my Kranzle to stubby lance and quarter inch quick releases as it makes life easier but wasn't paying big money for genuine ones as the cheaper gun and snow lances have been just as good. The cheap lance might not give you go quality foam and be a bit runny, the snow foam,dilution ratio etc you are using will also play a factor



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