https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2055940817/signature-rules
Today I did something to my car (volume 2)
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What in the world?
Weird oil drain valve?
It was meant to be a bit of a teaser. Yes oil drain valve. It's specifically designed as such and you need to press in tap while turning so unlikely to ever open by accident. Also area is protected by plastic engine cover so should not get too rusty nor bashed. I do intend putting Vaseline on exposed parts.
Oil filter is under engine so bottom cover needs to come off during servicing, but sump plug points to rear or car, so oil squirts out sideways.If it pointed down the valve would stick out too low.
Anyway not my car, 162 2L diesel Tiguan, new body, this is the part
ca09135
M14 1.5
Search eBay for
Truck Brass Quick Oil Drain Valve M14-1.5 Threads
About 10 euro. I have one of the quick oil hose suckers but I don't like to use it on low mileage cars, rather extra in between services. I'll keep an eye on it over time, also dropped spanner into used oil bucket
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Not my own car, and not today, but here’s the mother’s Megane and the sensors I put on it.
Hardest part was routing the cable down through the dashboard from the centre display. Could have done it much simpler but wanted the sensor display to not look too out of place on the dash.
Didn’t bother colour coding the sensors as it’s a totally base model anyway.
Must note that these Meganes are a pain to work on. I retrofitted OE type reverse camera to my Skoda in 1/4 the time this took.
This set comes with front sensors, which I have put on the long finger as access to the firewall is so bad in the engine bay, and there doesn’t seem to be any ignition lives in the traditional sense on this car. Everything stays powered up for 5 minutes - which isn’t ideal with front sensors.
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There was dedicated "what car related thing have you bought recently" thread, but since the downgrade I'm struggling to find it, so apologies.
Ms jou's ASX exhaust badly corroded, dealer wants an arm and a leg for replacement parts, second hand would more than likely be in similar condition to the current one.
Found a guy in Scotland making such things. Approx 450 notes incl. delivery to NI.
This one will definately not rust. ;-)
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So I did replace my nuts, looks far better - can't seem to find a photo of them on the car
I also swapped the badge centre to a black one (forgot to take a before until I'd removed the old one but you get the idea)
Have to say I think it looks great - takes years off the car and it already looked pretty fresh.
I also did something about my faded r design badge which looked like the 'before' in this picture.
Its just sharpie & lacquer but looks fine from a distance.
I would like something proper along the same 'black edition' lines but any of the repros i can find are blue & grey.
Anyone know where I can get a single foil or gel sticker made up that won't cost the earth?
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NCT failed me on rusty brake lines, which are far from rusty. What they missed is the rear chassis leg that looks less than fresh!
Cleaned the lines and gave them a coat of clear nail polish, let's see how we get on. I rarely replace anything when it's NCT time as I don't believe in waste.
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Mine failed on a rusty rear subframe. A small hole developed on one side, about the size of the top of my pinky finger, but enough to fail. I was told a weld would pass, but if it starting to fail on one side then its safe to assume the subframe is beyond use, and so time to swap it out.
Got a great condition second hand frame (as the new ones are over €800) along with new Upper control arms, lower control arms, spring arms, ARBs, drop links, trailing arms, trailing arm bushes, spring arm bushes, and got to work.
First step was sandblasting, priming and painting the "new" subframe. I stripped it down and sent it off to get done. Once it was done I stripped started rebuilding the new frame with all the new parts. The only thing I reused from my own subframe were the hubs. Everything else is new.
Once done I set about removing my old one. Got it out without much grief and fitted the new one. Now I never took pictures of the new frame finished or mounted but all is nice nad shiny now. Good for another 17 years.
Old one out
New one before fitting all the parts but its nice and clean and well protected.
One tiny hole and it lead to four days of work. Good point was I managed to sort a handbrake issue that has been bothering me for 18 months as I had to remove the exhaust to fit the subframe so had easy access to the handbrake mechanism while it was off.
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I wasn't happy with the lacquer on my Prelude, it was very dull. So I did some horse trading with a friend of mine for some booth time.
I did all the stripping, scoching and covering. He took care of the gun work. It turned brilliant, well worth all the effort.
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Took the rocker cover off to try and manually adjust the tension on the timing belt.
It's a known issue with these engines and it's a devil to get right.
They whine like you wouldn't believe. It's mostly sorted and sounds a lot better now.
I found this guide online.
Post edited by Titzon Toast on2 -
Gonna have to stop saying "I must check such and such" because everytime I do it seems to need replacing. First I said I'd "tidy up" the rear subframe then it failed on a hole the size of a ten pence piece so it had to be done. The timing belt and water pump has been on my mind for the last few months as its past due and with the number of threads about timing belts it was making me paranoid about changing it.
Out the other day and the coolant level light came on. Topped it up with about 200ml of water, but after a 25 minute drive it came on again. Opened the bonnet and heard water sizzling to the left side of the engine, half way down. Couldn't see the source and the only thing obscured is the water pump (it is behind the cam belt cover). It was last done at 109,000 and she is on 174,000.
So ordered new timing belt kit, aux/ belt, water pump kit which is due to arrive tomorrow so said I'd get a head start by doing all the stripping today. While I was at it I also ordered a new rocker cover gasket as there is slight weeping around the cover. The Z18xe has the aluminium head which i think is far better than the later vvti rocker cover which warp (some sort of plastic/polymer). So I stripped the rocker cover head bolts, and stripped all the auxillary stuff (air breather, coil pack, coolant pipe, sensors, etc), but DIDN'T remove the cover. Want to wait until I'm ready to do the actual gasket.
Everthing came apart easily as this is the third belt and pump service. Only problem, which I had last time, was the poxy torx head bolt off the timing belt tensioner. Its shallow and a T35 but soft metal which rounds if you look at it wrong. Wasn't in form for messing around with it and it already slipped/rounded partially so out came the mini grinder and ground off the head. Once it was ground smooth the tensioner simply pulls out and a vice grip breaks the bolt which is only set at 25nm.
Was checking online and I think I'll use a hack other lads have tried. An M8 bolt with 13mm hex head either 50mm o cut to 50mm long and use it in place of the torx head bolt that comes with the kits. All it does it tighten down the tensioner/adjuster for the cam belt so doesn't matter the type of head so long as it only covers the centre of the tensioner.
The water pump came out without a fight and my God, it didn't half need done. Bad rusting around the enitre unit both inside and outside. Will need a good scrubbing with some fine sandpaper and a dremel before the new one is fitted. The picture will tell you all you need regarding the condition of it.
Will head out in the morning to get all new coolant, some gasket sealant (I like to use a small bit along with the gasket, and a service kit in the form of oil, oil filter, air filter, pollen filter, fuel filter, and perhaps a new set of spark plugs seeing as how I've the coil pack out.
That should keep her right for the foreseeable future (he said tempting fate once more 😁 )
Forum Charter - Useful Information - Photo thread: Hardware - Ranges by County - Hunting Laws/Important threads - Upcoming Events - RFDs by County
If you see a problem post use the report post function. Click on the three dots on the post, select "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.
Moderators - Cass otmmyboy2 , CatMod - Shamboc , Admins - Beasty , mickeroo
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Got this pair of LED number plate lights from Skoda for the Octavia. They’re a pretty unknown part by the looks of it.
Better than paying €35 each for genuine Golf ones anyway.
Unsure how the light output is, seems good anyway.
Came with pretty comprehensive instructions including how to code them!
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hi all
I replaced the head unit in my 2002 147 TS a while ago and was missing a little bit of Bass ( not Boy racer Bass) and while surfing the Web I came across this mini Pioneer unit ( TS-WX010A) that is ideally suited to what i needed.
Installation is straight forward and due to its slim size can easily sit in the passenger footwell. It runs of a standard 10amp fuse so no need to go through the bulk head to the battery. Its adjustable for gain and freq so after a careful bit of a adjusting i got the levels i wanted
It uses the constant 12v from the fuse box which rather than joining it into the head unit constant power I used one of the piggyback fuse leads .
So if you are looking for that bass its well worth the money .
all the Alfa best
brendan
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