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Today I did something to my car (volume 2)

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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 766 ✭✭✭ FrankC21


    I don't know if yours is a diesel or petrol but if petrol then the samll pipe connects to the breather on the valve cover.

    I think i get what your saying cause I got a small filter that came with it (image attached) I put that into that valve. Therefore, the small pipe that is coming out of the main intake pipe I closed it with a rubber screw, so no unfiltered air can get in. But I bought a blue thin hose like the yellow one from previous poster. Can I connect it to the breather valve and the small pipe on the main intake pipe? Will that work then?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭ fancy pigeon


    You done well to get them off especially if they have the spinning outer ring which they look to have from my eyes anyway.


    They sure were the spinning type ;) The trick with these is power from different angles, which I can utilize with the inch gun. I had a 7/8 originally but that wasn't tight enough. 2 of them smashed the spinning collars off, an 18 hammered on took those off


  • Registered Users Posts: 766 ✭✭✭ FrankC21


    I don't know what you are expecting by fitting a cone filter you will not gain HP like the companies who sell them will tell you. The car will drive the same as with the stock box and filter.

    Ive watched videos and read articles I understand that there's a higher possibility that I won't gain any HP, But i really feel it actually improved a bit on the motorway it got a bit of kick when i get into higher rpm, and the honda engine sound is class like this is the first time I tried this sort of stuff.

    And more cold air = more power, but Again you will most likely point out that engine bay air gets hotter.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭ fancy pigeon


    FrankC21 wrote: »
    Ive watched videos and read articles I understand that there's a higher possibility that I won't gain any HP, But i really feel it actually improved a bit on the motorway it got a bit of kick when i get into higher rpm, and the honda engine sound is class like this is the first time I tried this sort of stuff.

    And more cold air = more power, but Again you will most likely point out that engine bay air gets hotter.


    Placebo



    Before and after on the dyno is the only proven way. Out of the box kits are usually **** and draw in hot air


    Picture of the setup would help clear this all up


  • Registered Users Posts: 893 ✭✭✭ Dale Parish


    Upgraded brake lines to braided, master cyl to E65 7 series one, replaced degrading TPS sensor and cleaned up the plenum in the M5 with engine degreaser.


    VGQK4548.jpg IMG-0867.jpg IMG-0885.jpg IMG-0886.jpg IMG-0887.jpg IMG-0985.jpg IMG-0987.jpg IMG-0992.jpg

    Started removing the engine also this weekend on my new-to-me E34 ahead of the engine overhaul

    IMG-0807.jpg IMG-0840.jpgengine-out.png engine-stand.png headers.png stationary.png


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,379 ✭✭✭ vintagevrs


    Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

    https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4


  • Registered Users Posts: 766 ✭✭✭ FrankC21


    Here are the photos hopefully it will help.

    As you can see from the photos I managed to close the small pipe hole using cable ties and rubber screw, I have no idea what to attach it to.


  • Registered Users Posts: 893 ✭✭✭ Dale Parish


    vintagevrs wrote: »
    Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

    https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

    Yeah haha I did! I've been following the thread on M5board for a while now so that was really my final motivation to just get it done :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 9,058 ✭✭✭ Kenny Logins


    vintagevrs wrote: »
    Nice one, I watched this recently and presume you did too!

    https://youtu.be/R47XW7jFAT4

    I knew what channel this was before clicking the link. :D


  • Registered Users Posts: 19,855 ✭✭✭✭ MetzgerMeister


    I LOVE M539Restorations. Very entertaining and detailed.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,699 ✭✭✭ advertsfox


    The DS3 gave me its first problem yesterday. Took it for a long drive yesterday (first in ages), put the AC on max because it was sweating out - tried turn it down after a while to hear the radio and was stuck on level 5. Hmmm, quick off / on of the car, still blasting away - except now at a warm temp so I was sweating again :p

    Turns out to be a motor blower fan resistor which sits deep behind the dashboard (common issue). Handy enough to take out if you have twig arms... which I dont! New one arriving off Amazon tomorrow for just €21 should sort it.

    IrUDaUx.png


  • Registered Users Posts: 766 ✭✭✭ FrankC21


    Hi,

    So do I take out the little breather filter out and connect back to intake pipe or leave as it is.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,030 ✭✭✭ MrCostington


    The wipers stopped working on my A4, it was one of the pivot shafts that the blade attached to, was seized solid. Even after using penetrating oil overnight I could hardly move it with a vice grips - the motor must be really strong to have moved it at all. Was a nightmare getting the assembly in and out, but managed to take apart and grease.

    all.jpg

    closeup.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,568 ✭✭✭✭ blade1


    Just an oil/filter change.
    First time not being done by lexus.
    Nice to see you get a good level of butchery from the main dealer for your money.
    What were they at this with?
    Also, torqued to twice the spec.

    IMG-20210505-091603.jpg


  • Registered Users Posts: 709 ✭✭✭ BlakeS94


    blade1 wrote: »
    Just an oil/filter change.
    First time not being done by lexus.
    Nice to see you get a good level of butchery from the main dealer for your money.
    What were they at this with?
    Also, torqued to twice the spec.

    IMG-20210505-091603.jpg

    It probably wasn't torqued, it was ugga dugga'd


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,720 ✭✭✭✭ CianRyan


    I'd say they used that bottom part to tighten the entire filter housing. Even toyota dealers rarely have the right tool for the job.
    That's mashed though, should really have been replaced.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,568 ✭✭✭✭ blade1


    CianRyan wrote: »
    I'd say they used that bottom part to tighten the entire filter housing. Even toyota dealers rarely have the right tool for the job.
    That's mashed though, should really have been replaced.

    All it is is a 3/8" drive size.
    Not exactly a specialist tool.
    They would have needed to use the special tool to take off the filter,can't see why they wouldn't use it to put it back on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,720 ✭✭✭✭ CianRyan


    blade1 wrote: »
    All it is is a 3/8" drive size.
    Not exactly a specialist tool.
    They would have needed to use the special tool to take off the filter,can't see why they wouldn't use it to put it back on.

    Not for that, that little cap is to drain the filter before removing it, correct?
    The filter housing itself is the aluminum cup that has an awkward side?

    At least that's the case on every other Toyota/ Lexus of that vintage I've worked on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 10,568 ✭✭✭✭ blade1


    CianRyan wrote: »
    Not for that, that little cap is to drain the filter before removing it, correct?
    The filter housing itself is the aluminum cup that has an awkward side?

    At least that's the case on every other Toyota/ Lexus of that vintage I've worked on.

    Yes correct.
    I opened the cap with an extension bar from my socket set.
    No need for anything on the end of it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,699 ✭✭✭ advertsfox


    advertsfox wrote: »
    The DS3 gave me its first problem yesterday. Took it for a long drive yesterday (first in ages), put the AC on max because it was sweating out - tried turn it down after a while to hear the radio and was stuck on level 5. Hmmm, quick off / on of the car, still blasting away - except now at a warm temp so I was sweating again :p

    Turns out to be a motor blower fan resistor which sits deep behind the dashboard (common issue). Handy enough to take out if you have twig arms... which I dont! New one arriving off Amazon tomorrow for just €21 should sort it.

    IrUDaUx.png
    Issue fixed, at last. Buy cheap, buy twice. The Amazon version was a dud so I ended up buying a proper version from Mister Auto for €60 that arrived today.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,077 ✭✭✭ Tails142


    Yeah what is the story with these resistors, the two bmw's I've owned and now a fiesta have all had this issue and I've found the cheap ebay resistors only last a few months before blowing, I'd say between those three cars I've replaced about 6 of them, other cars I've owned for years no bother at all. I wonder why they're so unreliable sometimes.


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,015 ✭✭✭✭ joujoujou


    Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

    The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

    Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

    Checked ALL fuses - all good.

    Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

    At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

    The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

    I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

    Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,686 ✭✭✭✭ punisher5112


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

    The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

    Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

    Checked ALL fuses - all good.

    Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

    At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

    The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

    I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

    Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

    Wow, what moron designed that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,573 ✭✭✭ crasy dash


    joujoujou wrote: »
    Spent the whole day struggling to find a problem with ms jou's ASX.

    The problem - RH front parking light not working intermittently.

    Bulb replaced - nope, problem still there.

    Checked ALL fuses - all good.

    Noticed that RHS rear parking light also acts silly - it won't shine as bright as it should, just glows, barely noticeable. It has built-in LED light in there, not repairable. If faulty, the entire light cluster has to be replaced. Took both LHS and RHS out and swapped - LHS plugged to RHS wire glows, while RHS plugged on the left - shines perfectly. So that's not the cluster I have a problem with. Cleaned all the connectors - no change.

    At that stage I just made myself a break, put everything back in and went to the internet with a hope to find a solution (there is none in the manual).

    The solution: FOUND IT! Took me 5 minutes. Russian and Polish forums both mention that on that very circuit there's another bulb that needs to be checked - in the glovebox! :eek:

    I hope whoever designed that and did not mention the consequences in the manual will burn in hell!

    Bulb replaced - problem solved! Just to add - LED bulb will work, but intermittent parking lights behaviour will stay - it MUST be ordinary W1.2W bulb in the glovebox to get things sorted.

    That's some result what a cluster feck of a design for a circuit though.
    Have to give credit to the polish and Russian lads they are unreal at the depth the go into when searching for a fault nothing ever seems to beat them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,699 ✭✭✭ advertsfox


    crasy dash wrote: »
    That's some result what a cluster feck of a design for a circuit though.
    Have to give credit to the polish and Russian lads they are unreal at the depth the go into when searching for a fault nothing ever seems to beat them.
    Russians... great lunch of lads :)

    Can you use add a resistor at this point so you can keep the white LED light in the glove box instead of the candle?


  • Registered Users Posts: 12,015 ✭✭✭✭ joujoujou


    advertsfox wrote: »
    [...]

    Can you use add a resistor at this point so you can keep the white LED light in the glove box instead of the candle?

    If it was my car, I would add separate circuit exclusively for the LED and keep the bulb on original circuit just to avoid trouble. But it's missus' car and she says she doesn't really need a light in there at all, so my job is done. ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,833 ✭✭✭ fancy pigeon


    A common problem with certain vintage of Volvo... The ETM, or Electronic Throttle Module



    Why this is a problem


    You may have seen this piece of sh*t throttle before on wheeler dealers, the Maserati 3200GT episode



    And of course, my S60 has this piece of scrap installed! And it showed signs of failing :rolleyes:


    So on Saturday I decided to repair it. Not a nice process, I will put pictures up at a later date when I have the time, but the process is outlined here


    Cut a long story short did it work? Did it f*ck. It only dawned on me when I was on the way to the garage I got a completely different error to the usual "Reduced Performance" message and the car was fairly difficult to drive from then on; the ETM had fully crapped itself. 3 hours and a new Sacer unit down the toilet!



    I've ordered a replacement and I'm waiting patiently for it. I'll get pictures of it's installation, I may have to code it into the car with Vida, which I have and have working very well



    Magnetti Marelli are useless f*ckwits who couldn't make chewing gum stick to a seat; they are dead to me. Useless shower of incompetent c*nts :rolleyes:


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 27,404 Mod ✭✭✭✭ Cass


    Easiest job in the world today. Bonnet release handle was slack and the handle was coming up too far to the point i was nervous it was break or break the cable.

    Quick check on the interweb, and i found out by loosening one nut, pulling the armoured cable back tight (it slackens/slides forward over years with use), and tightening the nut again its fixed. Bonnet up and job done. Took about 3 minutes.

    I love these little jobs that takes minutes and fix a niggle.

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    If you see a problem post use the report post function, "FLAG" & let a Moderator deal with it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 709 ✭✭✭ BlakeS94


    Cass wrote: »
    Easiest job in the world today. Bonnet release handle was slack and the handle was coming up too far to the point i was nervous it was break or break the cable.

    Quick check on the interweb, and i found out by loosening one nut, pulling the armoured cable back tight (it slackens/slides forward over years with use), and tightening the nut again its fixed. Bonnet up and job done. Took about 3 minutes.

    I love these little jobs that takes minutes and fix a niggle.

    Great confidence boost those jobs, recently fixed a car horn that was just a loose connection, front undertray off, sprayed some contact cleaner on the pins, and a bit of trickery with electrical tape and cable ties, took less than 10mins and cost me €0


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  • Registered Users Posts: 14,720 ✭✭✭✭ CianRyan


    The amount of times I've done those jobs and some poor sod has been charged €120 and a free coffee is tragic.
    I little effort goes a long way!


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