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The "Today I did something to my bike" thread

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    blade1 wrote: »
    I used heat shrink connectors for those wires.
    Almost everything went easier than expected.
    Didn't tighten anything until everything was in its place.
    Pulled new cable through from solenoid by connecting it to old one and then just pull old one back.
    Silicone greased all connections and cables have acf 50 on them when they arrive.
    Only bother I had was the negative cable just wouldn't go on to the terminal with the battery in place.
    The brass connector, the part going down the cable catches on the battery holder.
    Had to connect it by pulling the battery up a few inches and then put it back down.
    Seems to be putting a bit of pressure on the terminal still though.
    Negative cable is a couple of inches too long as well.
    Starts very fast now though :eek:

    IMG-20200116-151027.jpg

    Yeah tricky enough to fit em neat, jiggery poker required. Yours look spot on.
    With the cross section so much thicker the ability to make the same radius bend is hampered, he makes em a wee bit longer to account.

    I tried to keep any excess length away from the terminals best I could so they bolt up to the battery without any bending of the wire next to it. Have another tweek here and there if you think there may be too much stress on the terminal.
    Haven't you a fancy pants battery in there? Is it dimensionally the same as oe?

    Isn't it marked how quicker that starter can crank post fitment:eek: This is the two fingers to the dude in a suit who told the chap in accounts to reel in his gross copper bill per annum. As I get old and boring these additions attract me more than the usual fast mods.

    On a similar vibe I'll be installing an upgraded CCT in the new old Dr, one with a finer pitch with a better spring in as the old one can **** the bed. Mind you it's head off to do this but it rights a wrong decision that was made all those yrs ago and makes for a better bike to own, same as the walker cables on rotax ape twins.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    It's not the extra cable that causing the issue.
    More like the battery box and the 90° angle of connector.
    Was talking to John Walker about it and he said there should be little more give in it.

    The battery.
    Well it's smaller in size it packs a bigger punch ( a bigger punch to the pocket as well)
    It's only 110mm high do I put something under it to keep it up a bit
    It's a yuasa ttz 14s.

    A standard yuasa ytx12 is 130 high I think and a ytx14 is 145.
    But both less CCA than the 230CCA the Ttz has

    Can u see in the pic where the cable is pushing in the battery box?

    IMG-20200116-150640.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    Sorry battery is a ytz14s.
    Same as ttz but factory activated.
    Just means you can have a ytz on a bike at more of an angle than a ttz.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    I'd be trimming the battery box myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    H_Lime wrote: »
    I'd be trimming the battery box myself.

    Yeah I was thinking of doing it but hate cutting anything on this bike.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    blade1 wrote: »
    Yeah I was thinking of doing it but hate cutting anything on this bike.

    I hear you but that's a possible failure point, it's remote but nothing worse than a fix being the source of a breakdown.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    IMG-20200102-235438-BURST016.jpg
    Like this at every weld

    IMG-20200113-WA0001.jpg
    Blasted

    IMG-20200115-WA0000.jpg
    And here she is with some other work he had for that colour.
    Can't wait to pick it up and start reassembling.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    H_Lime wrote: »
    I hear you but that's a possible failure point, it's remote but nothing worse than a fix being the source of a breakdown.

    I'll see can I get a bit more out of the cable first during the week.
    Was going to go at it yesterday but went for a spin instead.

    In other news, I came across this seat cowl on a Japanese site.
    Like hens teeth apparently.
    Not sure whether to keep it or sell it.

    IMG-20200117-105357.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    If fellas will pay for it n you don't want it.... Ebay:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    H_Lime wrote: »
    If fellas will pay for it n you don't want it.... Ebay:)

    Fellas will pay for it and I do want it as well :pac:
    It's a question of how much do I want it.
    Probably prefer a swap for something rare that I haven't got.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    H_Lime wrote: »
    And here she is with some other work he had for that colour.
    Can't wait to pick it up and start reassembling.

    Who did you say does that for you again?
    Is it the guy up by Water Rock?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 34,314 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Lost lo and high beams again this evening on way home. 2km from house so not drastic.

    Repaired the same symptoms two months or so ago . That was a corroded ignition switch slider. Sand and greased fixed it perfect.

    This time checked that repaid all perfect. So had to chase it down. Ended up being a slightly corroded ground in the connector block up front by the left fairing.

    Not bad quick enough fix was only just over and hour at it. Most time taking the faring off.

    Losing lights is enough to put it up you.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,670 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    The salty spray from the roads is highly corrosive, it will find any exposed metal and start to eat it.
    This is when preventative maintenance will pay off, that and regular washing with Salt Away.
    Light going off is a definite head wreck


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    Bits arrived, at last...
    IMG-20200202-102357.jpg

    IMG-20200202-113926.jpg
    Tad overdue...colour of that oily/metal gloop.

    IMG-20200202-134341.jpg
    I'm fitting widgets to upgrade the damping. They're tuned to use a light weight oil, this way the stock damping orifices dont come into play, or shouldn't. I've decided to drill them out just to be sure as I've a suspicion that even when using the recommended 5wt they are damping somewhat.

    IMG-20200202-145036.jpg
    Once the lacquer goes off I'll throw em back together.

    IMG-20200202-145044.jpg
    Lowers came up well.
    The search continues for a quality correct shade of red gator.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,670 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    What emulators are you fitting? YSS, Racetech?
    I was looking at the Racetech 41mm versions for my NX650 but not sure yet which way to go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    What emulators are you fitting? YSS, Racetech?
    I was looking at the Racetech 41mm versions for my NX650 but not sure yet which way to go.

    They're "intiminators" by ricor suspension in the US. What's the id of your fork stanchion?
    If you're unfamiliar with them they install the same way as emulators by riding under the spring and ontop of the damper rod. Suppose the biggest advantage is having a better compression damping reaction to chassis imputs so brake dive, esp on long travel fork feel way better.
    If I didn't already have them on two bikes I'd call BS on that statement as an orifice doesnt descriminate chassis from road bumps, but they have a sperate shim stack for one and spring loaded blow off valve for other.
    Long story short they really work very well indeed, better than the Racetech emulators in my blackbird I might add. Let me know the id, a set could be adapted, I have the sandvick shims and breakdown tool from ricor to do this.
    The yss valves are interesting and so too the plex valves out of Australia, thinking of adapting one of those two to my old gs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 39,896 ✭✭✭✭Hotblack Desiato


    It's gaiter :)

    Today I changed the clutch fluid - it had gradually been dragging more and more, last week I could hardly get neutral until the engine was hot :eek:

    Fluid was down to the bottom of the cylinder. Pumped new fluid through, the old stuff looked like it was years old. Clutch action restored.

    Oil and filter change too, first one for me on this bike. Oddly Suzuki don't specify hand-tight on the filter, or a low torque value beyond hand-tight, but two full turns beyond the seal contacting the engine case. The plastic Triumph oil filter tool I had fitted the Suzuki filter... and was just about able to reach the required two turns before slipping, it was designed to prevent overtightening.

    Nearly had a disaster letting it down off the paddock stand, even though I had the front brake locked on, it was close to touching down on the block of wood under the sidestand (the sidestand is very short) but somehow it just started leaning to the right. I was able to catch it and no damage, just a mirror bent in, but worrying. I have a couple of heavyweight ratchet straps, and hooks/attachments on the shed rafters I can attach them to, should be able to prevent the bike falling using one or two of them.

    Sucks not having a centre stand though.

    I'm partial to your abracadabra
    I'm raptured by the joy of it all



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    It's gaiter :)
    Eww! a spelling pedant, you guys are smart and loved, no really!:pac::D

    IMG-20200111-161742.jpg

    IMG-20200111-172525.jpg

    IMG-20200111-195934.jpg

    IMG-20200126-205419.jpg
    Spare shock I painted. Looked like it came up from the sea bed but they last really well on these models actually, hardy yokes. I coated a heavier rate spring for this, will use er if touring with luggage n the like or if I keep eating pies.
    That finished off my can of expensive u pol etch primer. Great stuff when going back to the metal!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7 MJH17


    Have a look at Del Boys garage, on Youtube brilliant tutorials. Be very careful with brakes though, I recently stripped and fully rebuilt my calipers brake lines etc. I found that I couldn't trust garages to do it right as it's just too much trouble servicing brakes. Some will even tell you it 's not worth the effort. In some systems there are tiny details such as chamfered piston seals which could easily be wrongly fitted with disastrous consequences so once again, be careful.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,067 ✭✭✭H_Lime


    MJH17 wrote: »
    Have a look at Del Boys garage, on Youtube brilliant tutorials. Be very careful with brakes though, I recently stripped and fully rebuilt my calipers brake lines etc. I found that I couldn't trust garages to do it right as it's just too much trouble servicing brakes. Some will even tell you it 's not worth the effort. In some systems there are tiny details such as chamfered piston seals which could easily be wrongly fitted with disastrous consequences so once again, be careful.

    Good on ya MJH, it's my opinion the more you can correctly do yourself the better for many reasons! I'm always looking to learn new abilities.

    Delboy seems to split some fellas so don't rely on him exclusively perhaps. In particular brakes and coolant come to mind lol but the fundamentals demonstrated on camera are always helpful.
    Oh and never underestimate the Holy Book, I like clymer as the pics are better but Haynes are aok.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,253 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Today I paid for it... Collecting Saturday :D

    First bike, don't even have the jaysis licence yet, theory test next week then IBT, bit of luck that will all go smoothly and I'll be on the road just as the weather is starting to get better.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    Tried having a go at cleaning the blade today, Gunk won’t shift this

    054-E82-A7-99-D6-411-E-8015-6-F9-C3-A3155-BD.jpg

    D702-F84-F-A499-4-A5-C-AA67-386-C2-C2120-B7.jpg

    AE311-D13-8-D5-D-437-F-ACCE-0-E904-E0-DD114.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 122 ✭✭airhead_eire


    Let it soak in a degreaser like Jizer. It might need repeat soakings to shift it all.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    Let it soak in a degreaser like Jizer. It might need repeat soakings to shift it all.

    It was far far worse. I’ve gone through a dozen cloths and 3 lots of gunk so far. Looks like I’m finding loads of 20th century chain lube. Never heard of jizer, it even sounds eh...... :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    It was far far worse. I’ve gone through a dozen cloths and 3 lots of gunk so far. Looks like I’m finding loads of 20th century chain lube. Never heard of jizer, it even sounds eh...... :pac:

    Any motorfactors should have Jizer.
    Mighty stuff.
    And it's pronounced Joy zir.
    Just in case you ask for some Jizz :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    blade1 wrote: »
    Any motorfactors should have Jizer.
    Mighty stuff.
    And it's pronounced Joy zir.
    Just in case you ask for some Jizz :pac:

    I’ll give the local motor factors a call tomorrow, thank god you explained how to pronounce it or the shop assistant might have been f the impression I was looking for a helping hand elsewhere :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,920 ✭✭✭zubair


    Tis good stuff and has removed gunk of everything I've had to clean. I use it for chain cleaning too.

    Any time I ask for joy-zir in my local shop yer man always says jizz-er back to me. XD


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,045 ✭✭✭✭blade1


    zubair wrote: »
    Any time I ask for joy-zir in my local shop yer man always says jizz-er back to me. XD

    When's the wedding? :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,920 ✭✭✭zubair


    It's just harmless flirting, nothing serious.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 279 ✭✭The QuietMan


    zubair wrote: »
    Tis good stuff and has removed gunk of everything I've had to clean. I use it for chain cleaning too.

    Any time I ask for joy-zir in my local shop yer man always says jizz-er back to me. XD

    €30 for a gallon seems like good value hopefully it shifts the crap

    I would have said jizer as well only for blade1 and looked like a right idiot


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