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Hyundai Ioniq 28kWh - thread 2.0

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  • Registered Users Posts: 113 ✭✭dr.dundrum


    what Tests did you run? Any app/tool to check the battery health?



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,692 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Rub the bonnet,put a knee down beside it, put your head as close to the front wing and place your ear to it. Then whisper the words 'settle'. Whilst giving it a slow gentle tap on the headlight.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭obi604


    great for potential buyers to see some of these cars under 10k, albeit high mileage







  • Registered Users Posts: 21,483 ✭✭✭✭ELM327


    They probably arent selling above 10-11k now



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭obi604


    yeah, the last 3 have been on sale a while, since November I think

    the 12,800 one was at 14,500 for ages, then dropped, may need another drop



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  • Registered Users Posts: 374 ✭✭pajosjunkbox


    In the process of buying a used 2017 ionic. I was chatting to a lad I know and he has a 2021 38kw ionic. He has had the main battery and small battery replaced under warranty. He said the main battery out of warranty would cost 18k.

    This naturally worried me as I'm obviously buying out of warranty. Has this happened to anyone here or is this very rare and just bad luck ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,590 ✭✭✭zg3409


    There was a safety recall on 38kWh pack that saw many getting swapped as a worldwide precaution. There is no such issue with 28kWh battery. That said it may be a good thing to get a brand new main battery fitted on your car for free under warranty as it should last a few years longer if brand new.

    Needing to replace the 12 volt battery is common on all cars, typically the cost 100 euro and the factory warranty for Hyundai is only 2 years. Even then it can be hard to get Hyundai to agree to do it, as typically the battery tester they use will typically say the battery is not faulty. The reason for the need to replace it is quite complicated but the car does not protect the 12 volt battery well. If you forget to lock the car, forget to fully close the boot, or sit in the car outside a school or say tesco for 15 minutes after pressing the stop button then a warning will appear on the radio and the battery will.go dead in less than 10 minutes. If you leave the car on/ready it will be ok. If you lock the car after turning off it will be ok. If you replace the 12 volt say every 2 years you will be ok. The typical advice is to leave the car "on" until ready to leave it, then fully lock car immediately. As a back up in case you get stuck leave a mini 12 volt jump pack in.the glove box, and learn how to open the drivers door with the emergency key. This way you can go from being stuck to back on the road in less than 5 minutes. Similar issues apply to all Hyundai and kia EVs, but same also applies to all cars where the 12 volt may need to be replaced and if the battery goes dead from say leaving the lights on, it needs a jump start to get going again.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,017 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Lidl have one of the portable jump Battery things in on Monday for €60


    the UK listing (which is a decent bit less, ~€53) has a good bit more info if that helps

    https://www.lidl.co.uk/p/ultimate-speed-portable-jump-starter-with-power-bank/p10007894



  • Registered Users Posts: 374 ✭✭pajosjunkbox


    Thanks for all that info. I must pick up a portable battery jumper . A little confused ......can I get the main battery on the 28kw replaced under warranty or was the recall just on the 38kw ?


    I know the current owner has replaced the 12v battery recently and has been pretty thorough when it came to scheduled maintenance.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,741 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. outdoor furniture, roof box and EDDI

    My Active Ads (adverts.ie)



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  • Registered Users Posts: 374 ✭✭pajosjunkbox


    Thanks for clarifying. Would any owners here have any concerns regarding battery health buying a fully serviced 28 kw with 200k km ?

    I plan to now get the battery health checked by Hyundai before I buy.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭loopymum


    Hardly any issues with traction battery were 28kw. No recalls for it.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,692 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    No by all accounts that car was very well constructed, the normal 12v was the only real item that gave issues. But you've that swapped.

    It's a relatively bullet proof vehicle for nice local close regional motoring



  • Registered Users Posts: 23 Valentin_N


    What is the failure rate on the 28 kWh variant for the electric motor or the gear reducer unit (transmission)? Are they failing more outside of warranty? Are there any companies able to restore the failing bearings for a reasonable cost, short of replacing the whole component?

    I'm asking in the context of being a shared design (with Kona, e-Niro) that's considered faulty as per various posts on international forums.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,500 ✭✭✭obi604


    Where do they come up with these prices 🙄🙄





  • Registered Users Posts: 6,590 ✭✭✭zg3409


    In terms of 28kWh battery failing above 200,000km you should be aware you have no warranty. Typically they have been extremely reliable but there is not many with more than 300,000km so who knows. The typical impact is slightly reduced range rather than total failure. Even "total" failure can often be fixed by swapping battery modules at back street specialists for say 3000 euro.


    In terms of asking dealer to check battery health I would not trust them. Instead plug in using your own odb dongle and a phone app, this way you know for sure. Apps like EV notify and a konweii odb dongle are fairly easy to use

    I would prefer to spend a few thousand more on a car with warranty.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,590 ✭✭✭zg3409


    I am not sure if any have failed in Ireland. It was certain age ranges. I changed my reduction oil early (at 100,000km) as a precaution and I suggest all owners change theirs ASAP if never done as a precaution. It took me around 20 minutes with access to a car lift. Guide on YouTube.

    From forums they seem to get noisy first then very noisy. So listen carefully on a test drive and compare to other cars.

    It should be relatively easy to swap the entire motor and gearbox using one from a crashed car if necessary. The crowd below are based in newry and may have the parts needed or be able to source them from mainland UK.

    Again all cars have scare stories from the odd owner. In general the 28kWh model is extremely reliable. It's always a risk buying any car with no warranty.




  • Registered Users Posts: 374 ✭✭pajosjunkbox


    Does anyone here have experience of the 2nd generation leaf ? How would it compare to the 28kw ionic ? Is there a clear cut winner when it comes to choosing one over the other ?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,590 ✭✭✭zg3409


    In terms of battery size leaf is 24kWh 30kWh & 40 & 62kWh. The 28kWh ioniq probably has a better real world range than a 30kWh leaf model.

    The leaf has a better driver seat/driving position in my opinion. The leaf has better aftermarket parts should you need them and better understood for repairs etc.

    Pros for ioniq, typically high spec as standard, adaptive cruise control, lane assist. Leaf has low and high spec models.

    Public charging ioniq has CCS while leaf gas ChaDeMo. ChaDeMo is less supported and with a leaf you cannot use some chargers such as ionity. ChaDeMo is probably going to be harder to find as time goes on.

    Charging speed for ioniq is exceptionally fast, typically 48kW up to 70kW which leaf can be 42kW but can slow very quickly. Ioniq has forced air battery cooling (a big fan) while the leaf has nothing to cool the battery meaning leaf charges slower and leaf battery degrades far quicker meaning an old ioniq will still have a good battery while an old leaf may only have 80% battery capacity.

    Like for like I would go for 28kWh ioniq over identical leaf but I suggest test driving both and it depends on your use case and number of times per year you may need to public charge mid trip. Ioniq 28kWh typically was more expensive than 30kWh leaf due to its good reputation. Leafs tend to give more trouble in general. Main thing is to not overpay and get a car with more real world range than you need to avoid public charging as much as possible.



  • Registered Users Posts: 5,788 ✭✭✭Old diesel


    General consensus is the Hyundai is better because.

    1) it has the CCS standard for rapid charging that's now the general European standard. The Leaf uses the Chademo standard.

    Easiest way to explain it is that at a rapid charger the Chademo connector won't fit CCS and vice versa.

    With pretty much every new EV bar the Leaf now using CCS for rapid charging.

    It's going to be increasingly common to find rapid chargers with no chademo connector available.

    2) Hyundai has active cooling for the battery. Uses a fan system to bring cooler air from the cabin to the battery via a vent under the back seat. A battery on an Ioniq might go up to say 40 degrees when rapid charging. But a driver might have the climate set to say 22 degrees for the interior of the car. So air at 22 degrees is been put into a warmer battery cooling it down better.

    Leaf relies on passive cooling which is not great. You are relying on the ambient temperature being lower than the battery to try to self regulate the temperature. Sort of like the way if I boil a kettle and walk away from it the water would eventually cool down by itself.

    Actively cooled batteries typically last better.

    Its often said that a 2nd gen Leaf can only rapid charge 1 to 2 times in a day. Slightly misleading as it will rapid charge a 3rd, 4th or 5th time.

    However whereas the 1st or 2nd rapid charge will be at 45 kW on the Leaf subsequent charges will be at at 22 kW or less. I know of a Dutch fella who actually got the rapid charging speed down to 11 kW (not a typo) after doing something big Kms over two days. Was his last charging stop before home.

    This issue is known as rapidgate in the EV enthusiast world. Was a big story among EV enthusiasts in 2018 with the new Leaf 40 kwh that year.

    Because many EV enthusiasts in 2018 were driving the original Leaf and the new Leaf was an important car at the time.

    However many EV enthusiasts have moved on from Leafs so its not a big topic anymore even though it was never actually fixed properly.

    3) on modern High powered chargers - say 100 to 150 kw chargers not only will the Hyundai charge at 65 kW peak.

    But active cooling means it will always charge properly in pretty much any Irish use case scenario.

    4) the Hyundai is more efficient then the Leaf. The Leaf when new had 9 kwh more usable battery capacity but gets a similar range to the Hyundai.

    Nissan quote a gross capacity which is 40 kwh on the Leaf with the actual capacity available to the driver to use when new of 37 kwh.

    Whereas Hyundai quoted the battery size as the usable capacity of 28 kwh rather than the gross capacity of 31 kwh.

    Hence a difference of 9 kwh between 28 and 37 and not the 12 between 28 and 40 kwh you'd assume.



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,231 ✭✭✭loopymum


    We have an ioniq 28kw & a env200 which has a 40kw battery.

    Ioniq @120k kms still has 100 percent battery available which is 28kw

    Env200 @22K kms has just over 90 percent available which is 33.3kw

    The shape of the leaf car is probably more aerodynamic than the van but but not by much I'd say.

    The ioniq will always go further than the env200.

    On a long trip of almost 300 kms the ioniq would have done it almost twice as fast and with far fewer fast charger stops.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,319 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    I'd choose an Ioniq over a 24 or 30 Leaf, but not a 40 Leaf. There was mention of a CHAdeMO to CCS adaptor being available now for about 1500e. So the issue of charging will be less of an issue if the Leaf can use both. The lack of active cooling and poorer aerodynamics are then the only negatives imo.

    Stay Free



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,017 ✭✭✭witnessmenow


    Anyone get these? Our local Lidl didn't get them delivered this morning.



  • Registered Users Posts: 33,692 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Wouldn't the lack of cooling and aerodynamics still make the leaf kw/100km worse versus the ioniq.. including the 40kwh version.



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,319 ✭✭✭...Ghost...


    Yes. It has been proven that the Ioniq 28 beats the Leaf 40 on a Dublin to Cork journey for example. However, the Leaf 40 is a far nicer place to be. It's a close one though.

    Stay Free



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 18,741 Mod ✭✭✭✭slave1


    Nissan report Gross Battery whereas Hyundai report Available so the Leaf 30 and Ioniq were basically the same battery size available.

    Leaf has remote App which works brilliantly if preheating or cooling the car, Ioniq 28 has no App

    My stuff for sale on Adverts inc. outdoor furniture, roof box and EDDI

    My Active Ads (adverts.ie)



  • Registered Users Posts: 8,865 ✭✭✭Soarer


    A few questions folks.

    What are the service intervals for the 28? Mine was last service in January 2023, and I've put up approx. 20k km on her since I think. Will the 8 year warranty be maintained if I get her serviced now?

    Also, have the CarScanner app and dongle. Will it show me the SOH of the battery?



  • Administrators, Computer Games Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 32,159 Admin ✭✭✭✭✭Mickeroo


    Service interval is every year or 15000km far as I know.



  • Registered Users Posts: 223 ✭✭bootser


    I used the car scanner app with the 28, no problem. I had 212kms on mine when I sold it and it was still showing 100% I doubt yours will be any worse😊👍



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  • Registered Users Posts: 8,865 ✭✭✭Soarer


    Used Car Scanner while ago. Saying 100% SoH.

    Not sure how that’s possible after 127k kms, but that’s what I’m being told.

    Some car.



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