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the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

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  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,741 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    my rear zonda has developed a tiny bit of 'play', as in it can rock slightly on the bearings, with about a mm or so of travel out at the rim. is it just a case of tightening it up at the bearings slightly?



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,213 ✭✭✭DaveyDave


    A slight adjustment of the bolt on the hub should do the job. I think it's 2mm?



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,741 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    yep, that was very simple - i hadn't realised the dust cap also screws in to take up slack, and that's what that bolt was designed for, a 2 minute job. it's a 2.5mm allen key FWIW.



  • Registered Users Posts: 6,190 ✭✭✭PaulieC


    Anything I can do to stop squealing disc brakes ? Cleaned and got new pads recently, but front disc is still a bit moany



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    A light sanding of both disc and pads can help

    Post edited by cletus on


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  • Registered Users Posts: 6,190 ✭✭✭PaulieC


    I had read about cleaning and sanding the pads, but the discs too ? I would never have thought to do that.



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,741 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    i think sanding the discs is belt and braces stuff, the pads get contaminated far more easily than the rotors.

    my routine is drop the pads in some boiling hot water with degreaser added, leave them there for a few minutes, take them out, hit them with a heat gun, and then a light sanding with 400 grit paper usually. probably overkill, but to a man with a hammer...



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    You can get wear patterns in the discs, and it seems that it can cause resonance. It's and easy enough thing to do, might be worth giving it a shot if you've sorted the pads already



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    My road bike chain won't go on the 'outermost' cog what do i need to adjust?




  • Registered Users Posts: 1,496 ✭✭✭hesker


    Back out the L screw a bit. If that doesn’t do it you might need to adjust the cable



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    As hesker says, but I'd do it in the opposite order😁. Once youve shifted as far outboard as the shifter allows, check tension on the cable. If it's tight, adjust cable. If it's slack, then L screw.


    One other thing worth checking would be whether you can move the derailleur outboard with your hand. Stuck derailleur is another option



  • Registered Users Posts: 491 ✭✭Elvis Hammond


    If needed, it's H screw that's adjusted in this case, not L.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    You are absolutely correct, Elvis. Apologies



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup




  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    Anticlockwise. You want to back the screw out (lefty loosely 😁).

    Quarter turn at a time, you'll see the derailleur and hear the chain



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    and does Elvis adhere? 😙



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    I'm not sure how sticky he is, but I hope he concurs 😂



  • Registered Users Posts: 18,069 ✭✭✭✭fryup


    ^^^^^^^^^^

    no need to be cheeky

    Adhere: believe in and follow the practices of.😑



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus




  • Moderators, Politics Moderators Posts: 39,114 Mod ✭✭✭✭Seth Brundle


    Am I mistaken in thinking that, if there is a barrel adjuster then one should turn that before one would start altering the H or L screws?



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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    Nope, your not. As I said above, check the cable first, then the limit screw. It's most often the cable. Limit screws are more or less set and forget



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,741 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if the indexing is fine on the other cogs, i wouldn't turn it just yet; easier and quicker to check a limit screw than it is to reindex gears if you throw the indexing off with the barrel adjuster.



  • Registered Users Posts: 7,914 ✭✭✭cletus


    Yeah, I'd only adjust the cable if there was tension on it when shifted as far outboard as possible. That's an easy enough check.



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    Morning Guys,

    I’m currently riding a set of Mavic Cosmic Carbons Pro Exalith the rear wheel has developed a crack, I was looking online for a suitable replacement would this one below be fine ? I currently have Shimano Ultegra R8000 group set and it’s a rim break. Thanks.

    https://www.deporvillage.net/mavic-cosmic-sl-40-rear-wheel-for-shimano-11v-tubeless-core

    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    Also I need a new cassette and chain what’s the difference in the sizing and what should I go for? Thanks again.

    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Registered Users Posts: 2,187 ✭✭✭JMcL


    How big you can go will depend on whether your rear derailleur is short or mid cage. Shimano have a document with a guide as to what works with what, but if memory serves they recommend max 28 largest sprocket for the short cage, medium cage will go up to 34. They're also noted for being quite conservative in these recommendations, but I'd read up about it before trying to push the boundaries.

    What size depends on what you're doing. If you've legs like oak trees and want to not have a big jumps in gearing (effectively if you're racing), look at 11-25. Otherwise 11-28 if you're on short cage, and 11-32 or 11-34 if you're not bothered about gaps in gearing and want to make it easy as possible to get up hills.

    Look at 105 components if you want to save some cash at the expense of a few extra grams

    [Edit: Fixed typo in original]



  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 48,741 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    if you've the short cage derailleur, officially it can only go up to 30 teeth on the cassette. i suspect there's wiggle room there though.



  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 24,568 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Most chains will be longer than you need, count the links in your current chain and shorten your new chain to match (you'll have to buy a chain breaker if you don't have one). Same for the cassette, unless there was something wrong with the gearing, get the same again. You'll need a shimano lockring tool to tighten the cassette up once you put it on.

    I'd recommend getting a chain with a quick link (not a pin) as they are easier to fit IMO.

    If you are around South Dublin or South Wexford I'll lend you whatever tools you need



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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,880 ✭✭✭Marty Bird


    Thanks for the info guys, the rear wheel I linked earlier would that be a like for like replacement on my current one ?

    🌞6.02kWp⚡️3.01kWp South/East⚡️3.01kWp West



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