the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

i don't use split pins, i use magic/quick links. much less faff.

Seth Brundle

1. I get a few hundred kms out of the factory lube on a new chain and probably could get more.

2. It should snap off with a pair of pliers or vice grips

Edit: I'm assuming you have shortened the chain to match the number of links on your old chain. You'll need a chain splitting tool for this.

wheelo01

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119278285#Comment_119278285

I haven't done, but did know that I had to do it first, but thanks for the reminder, I could easily have forgotten with my memory

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119277875#Comment_119277875

I didn't realise that was an option, I presumed they were only an emergency fix, I have some in my saddle bag, I might just use that option.

Thanks guys.

cletus

If you have a quick link, I'd definitely use that over the pin

Not strictly maintenance but not worth starting a new thread about.

I got new Favero Power pedals a few months ago that came with new red cleats (Look, I think). The booklet said they had to be used with the pedals, which went onto the good bike.

However, when I went to use my winter bike which is on the trainer and has standard pedals, the cleats didn't fit. Couldn't clip in.

I only have one pair of shoes so if I want to jump on the winter bike which is on the trainer I need to swap the cleats or else put the good bike on the trainer. Both a pain in the rear.

Does this mean I have to change the pedals too on the winter bike to use them or get a second pair of shoes with Shimano cleats on them?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303703#Comment_119303703

I don't use spd-sl pedals, but it sounds like you may need Look pedals for the trainer bike.

It just so happens that I have a set of Look Keo pedals here.

If they are what you need, you're welcome to them

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303765#Comment_119303765

Is it that Look Keo cleats only work with Look pedals?

I was at the LBS this morning explaining my situation and the guy fairly quickly shot down my thinking that I need new pedals for trainer bike. 'Change the cleats and never the pedals' was his saying, which sounded a bit dubious to me.

Thanks a million for the offer but I'm in Cork so that would probably be a pain in the arse for you...

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303945#Comment_119303945

I don't believe that Shimano spd-sl and Look Keo are interchangeable.

I would understand changing the cleats as it's the cheaper option, but if you have two different pedals, it makes no sense to switch between clears on your shoes every time you want to switch bikes.

Someone with more knowledge than me will probably be along soon, but my understanding is if the cleats and pedals on your road bike and shoes are Look Keo, then you'll need Look Keo pedals on the trainer bike to have all compatible

Squidgy Black

Yeah it’s only Look’s X-Track mtb pedals that use shimano SPD mtb cleats, Look Keo cleats won’t work with SPD-SL pedals and vice versa.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303990#Comment_119303990

Thank you. I was thinking the exact same thing but the guy in the LBS convinced me otherwise.

I think the most frustrating thing about cycling is the lack of standardisation. It's such a dose. I had no idea when getting the power pedals that I'd have to get new pedals for the winter bike too...

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119304161#Comment_119304161

If you don't mind me asking, what was his solution, exactly

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119304272#Comment_119304272

Not at all. He said the Look cleats I have must have been worn or damaged which is why I couldn't clip in, which didn't make any sense as they work fine on the good bike, and he offered me a new set. I'm not sure he understood my issue fully. I took the new set of cleats as they were just 15e and I will need them at some point and it will save me buying them online.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119304427#Comment_119304427

He must not have gotten what you were saying, which could happen, you just need Look pedals for the training bike.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119277052#Comment_119277052

Don't degrease the chain. Maybe rub it down with a dry cloth after you have it on to reduce the amount of lubricant on the outside which will pick up dirt but (IMO) that lubricant the Shimano chains is packed with is excellent and should be left on for the first few 100km. After which you can dive down the rabbithole of chain waxing (or run it through a chain cleaner, rinse it and cover it in dry lube).

Thanks a lot, exactly as I thought. No, he didn't seem to be aware that there was such a thing as a different type of pedal. Ge repeated a few times that pedals are the same, it's the cleat that changes. He was fairly huffy about it too, as if to suggest I was some sort of dope for asking.

cletus

Been a while since I asked a stupid question.

Wanted to switch tyres on the new bike, but quickly realised they're set up tubeless from the factory (I thought they came tubeless ready). So, I wanted to ask the hive mind for some recommendations for sealant, and if there are any pitfalls I should try to avoid doing my first swap.

One other thing, I'll be putting the tyres from the new bike on an old bike. Do I need them to be completely sealant free before putting inner tubes in?

Thanks in advance, people

Silent night

Probably been asked hundred times before but what type of solution wash would you use to clean down bike and chain thanks

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119324730#Comment_119324730

There's loads of relatively expensive bike specific cleaning products out there Muc-Off is probably the best known.

Really, though, soapy water will clean you frame (washing up liquid in warm water will be absolutely fine). For the chain, you can pick up general kitchen degreaser sprays in Lidl, Aldi, Mr. Price, Deals etc for small money, and they'll all work fine

Idleater

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119321791#Comment_119321791

Do I need them to be completely sealant free before putting inner tubes in?

I would clean as best you can. I've moved tubeless MTB tyres onto a different set of wheels (non tubeless) and even though the sealant was gone, it was sticky so I can only assume that the tubes are now stuck to the tyre- at least in spots.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119324908#Comment_119324908

Thanks for that. Any recommendations for sealant?

Idleater

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119325089#Comment_119325089

Not in particular, i used stans last time and that's empty so I'm going to have to search for something. Procrastination is getting the better of me!

That said. I've tubeless wheels and no bike to put them on so there's no urgency!

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119325089#Comment_119325089

I've been using Stan's Notubes and it's fine, though I can't confirm whether I've had the opportunity to be thankful for it. It does seem to be well regarded though. It's quite thin, though they have a "race" version as well which is gloopier apparently, and I think will seal bigger holes. I also got a syringe (https://www.alltricks.fr/F-11929-outillage/P-111025-notubes_seringue_d_injection_preventif___embouts) which makes measuring and putting it into the tyre a doddle (this won't work with the race version apparently)

cletus

Thanks folks

Silent night

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119324826#Comment_119324826

Thanks for that

cletus

Two in one week for me.

Creak from the cockpit area. Alu handlebar and stem, carbon steerer.

I'm thinking it's at the interface between stem and steerer. It's bone dry. Do I need to get some carbon paste?

JMcL

Adjusting HYRD brakes

I'm almost certain this or a similar question has been answered in the past couple of months, but with the state of the search function on the site, I'm damned if I can find it

I've TRP HYRD cable actuated hydraulic brakes on one of the bikes, The brakes work very well generally, but recently I find I'm having to pull very hard on especially the rear before they'll engage - almost all the way to the bars. They do still stop the bike, but I'm not overly comfortable with the amount of pull required

There's plenty of wear left in the pads, and I gave them a go with sandpaper. There's a couple of things that spring to mind:

1. Adjust cable tension - the cable looks like it's got some slack in it
2. They need bled - this needs done anyway, so I'll need to get a bleed kit and It's a bigger operation as I'll need to take the brakes off the bike, so I'm going to defer it until I get back from the holidays

So going back to option 1 which I can tackle with what I have to hand, there's a lock knob, which is supposed to screw in to the actuator arm to keep it in the correct place while tensioning the cable. Mine doesn't screw in and this document - https://trpcycling.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/TRP-HYRD-Technical-Bulletin-English-Rev-B.pdf - suggests that this means compensation for pad wear won't work, and suggests following the cable installation and adjust instructions in the manual. This is a bit of a chicken and egg situation however as the first thing it says is to lock out the actuator arm.

There's a tech video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BcZKtFI8Els&t=381s) which suggests adjusting a couple of adjuster screws for the push rod to align the lock knob, but there's no mention of that in the manual

Not 100% sure the best way to proceed - any thoughts?

magicbastarder

the barrel adjuster should modify how much lever throw is required to actuate the brakes; and if you've got slack in the cable, this is the first thing i'd reach for.

Elvis Hammond

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119330849#Comment_119330849

Is it a tight cable preventing the actuator from retracting fully, so it doesn't line up with the lock knob? Obviously tightening it further isn't going to help if that's the case; it will need to be slackened off to allow extra fluid in to compensate for wear.

Wouldn't be the first time I've seen cable operated discs set up with too-tight cables, despite clear instructions with all types that full actuator travel is a must.

JMcL

the barrel adjuster should modify how much lever throw is required to actuate the brakes; and if you've got slack in the cable, this is the first thing i'd reach for.

That'd be my thinking as well, though the adjuster doesn't seem to want to rotate in either direction - I might give it a go with pliers to see if there's any give.

Is it a tight cable preventing the actuator from retracting fully, so it doesn't line up with the lock knob? Obviously tightening it further isn't going to help if that's the case; it will need to be slackened off to allow extra fluid in to compensate for wear.

It does look like there's some slack in the cable. The actuator seems to be spring loaded, hence I assume the adjustable push rod I mentioned from the vid - I'll need to have a closer look to see whether it needs to slack off or tighten up so the lock knob will engage. Neither front nor back lock nuts are engaging, and manipulating the actuator doesn't seem to line them up, so maybe the push rod does need slacked off

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119330686#Comment_119330686

Lube your front skewer's threads and locking mechanism.

I had a phantom front-end-creak a while back and that's what solved it!

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119332888#Comment_119332888

I shall do so forthwith👍