the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

CramCycle

There are of course exceptions but a mass produced bike typically will be as MB has described

PeaSea

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118951898#Comment_118951898

Yeah, I see the rails, thanks for the replies.

Roberto_gas

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118945426#Comment_118945426

I had similar issue and it was hanger alignment after bike fell on drive side...but in your case it looks like chain wear...you can use a normal ruler to measure the stretched chain...search online.

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118943420#Comment_118943420

There is no best type.

I’ve been through dozens of different ones, my current favourite is the own brand Decathlon bar tape. Just the right about of sticky and stretchy, wears really well and it’s cheap. The one I hate the most is lizard skin.

SRAM super cork was good and Zipp Service course. But I’m not sure they’re worth the money over the Decathlon stuff.

FYI I’m super obsessive about bar tape. I change it way more often than most people and it has to look perfect.

Edit: do not double wrap. The only time to do that is with new tape over new tape when you’re preparing for the cobbled classics.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118954706#Comment_118954706

That's all very well about the Decathlon bar tape, Brian, but does it come in orange???

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118954725#Comment_118954725

It absolutely does!

devonp

another bike noise..??

end of my spin last week had a very def squeaky noise...no wheel rub on the brakes front or back (rim)

today cleaned bike and fitted new chain (due)...went for a spin..ok for 10km then started again ! ?

stopped bike got off lifted bike spun wheel forward..squeak! the squeak is worse when I'm on the saddle and also there when i pedal and lesser but still when i freewheel

squeak changed to a low rubbing/grinding later which lessened for the rest of the spin ??

Wheel is a DT swiss R23 spline with a campag freehub (which seems fine), 4-5 yrs old, brake track good.

any ideas ? I think wheel bearings ?

wheel doesn't owe my anything, got it in a clearance from Canyon to replace same (which i still have, badly worn brake track )

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118943420#Comment_118943420

I'd remove the old tape, but what I generally do is cut a few strips and stick them (with a bit of electrical tape - just enough to hold them in place while wrapping) onto pressure points like the tops, and behind the hoods, then wrap the bars. Gives a nice bit of extra padding where it's needed

[edit] I find the BBB cork tape is durable, comfy, and cheap - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb-cork-race-ribbon-handlebar-tape/rp-prod46593

Weepsie

Couple questions, rear wheel related.

Just did some work on my rear SRAM brake as it has a sticky piston and serious brake rub. Put wheel back in, and tightened it up. It seems fine then, but if I can move it a bit laterally when it's tighenened up. PResuming the hub might need a bit of a service?

Zonda rear wheel. I was adding some QR adapters to it, and took the freehub off by accident. Got it back on, but there seemed to be a bit of play on the casette when it's tightened up. Probably needs a lot of greasing maybe?

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118982890#Comment_118982890

Is the first one cup and cone? If so, the hub could be tightened up to stop the lateral movement. Cone spanners required for that job

If it’s got cartridge bearings, there should be a pre-load system which could also be tightened up, generally using an Allen key and a spanner or cone spanners

Re: the Zondas; did you notice any play before removing the freehub? Are you sure you included everything when you re-assembled it? I know in Mavic freehubs, there’s a little washer that has to be installed before fitting the freehub. Pretty sure it’s there in Zonda hubs also but it’s been awhile since I’ve had the freehub off my Zondas and can’t say for certain...

Weepsie

I'm not sure which it is, but I'll take a look tomorrowas for the zondas..no washer, but I did feel there should have been there before the spacers and other stuff.

G1032

Folks

R7000 FD setup. I have full clearance in Big Big and Big Small combinations. Oceans of clearance. But in order to have clearance in Small Big, I have to really sacrifice clearance on Small Small side. Chain rub in smallest 4 sprockets when in small ring on front.

Thing is I can't get a trim to work for the small ring. It works perfectly for big ring. It's actually something Shimano tell us to expect with R7000, R8000 FD. See attached photo.

But any tips or tricks to allow me get clearance in the small ring for at least all but bottom 2 sprockets?

Roadtoad

Has anyone here used a nice clamp attachment for fitting a carrier to a road bike that doesn't have eyelets?

I could jury-rig something ugly, but I'd prefer a shop bought gadget.

magicbastarder

i think generally c-clips or p-clips is the way to go?

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119032945#Comment_119032945

Tailfin (https://www.tailfin.cc) do some really nice, albeit pricey, solutions for this. I've never seen one in the flesh but they review very well. MBs suggestion would certainly be the more wallet friendly option

kirving

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118991838#Comment_118991838

If cable tension adjustment is working on one ring, but not the other, it's most likely the limit switches that need adjusting. Not the case with your R7000 FD I don't think, but often manufacturers spec a 3X lever, with a 2X Front Derailleur (FD), (or the standard levers are often 3X?).

Cube did that for me, so I now have to choose whether to use Lever 1-2, or Lever 2-3 for my FD position 1-2. But since I have an extra click available, I use lever click 2-3 for FD 1-2, but I adjust it in such a way as that this suits Small, Small, and Big, Small.

If I'm ever in Small, Big (climbing sharply on the MTB), and I get chain rub, I drop to Lever click 1, and allow the FD to sit on it's lower limit switch. The cable is now slack and takes me 2 clicks to come out of it. I should to go to 1x12, but a new groupset isn't cheap!

G1032

I'll have to video it. When I 'trim' the low position I can actually see the cable slacken but the derailleur doesn't move any further inboard. The consequence of this is that I have to set the low limit on what's effectively the 'non-trimmed' position.

G1032

Here's a video to explain it better. See when I click into the low trim that the cable slackens off but the derailleur doesn't move

https://1drv.ms/v/s!Akk2mjjNlxAbgccF3uS4KN0zLLr-1w

JunkedMail

I won a bike in work which was delivered to me in a box. The bike is a Carrera Crossfire 1 (which I assume is a low to mid range bike considering its retail value). I have assembled the bike but I'm not happy with the gears. The front derailleur isn't working properly and needs to be adjusted. Anyone know any indy bike service guys in the Newbridge area? I had a go myself and don't want to make a mess of it when I don't really know what I'm at.

I had a road bike 10 years ago but sent it for servicing before selling when I moved abroad. The local bike shop always gave problems and eventually I used a local guy who is no longer in the area.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119038483#Comment_119038483

If you could get to Kildare town, Lukasz in Apex Cycles is excellent.

If you do feel like giving it a shot, this is my go-to video

https://youtu.be/UkZxPIZ1ngY

Unknownability

Would anyone have a contact for an independent bike mechanic in Offaly or Westmeath please?

JunkedMail

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119038517#Comment_119038517

Cheers, that done the trick. Have it sorted now.

phelixoflaherty

Hello, Bottom bracket clunk. Got it in Halfords.

It's a UN26 68 x116. Could I replace it with something better and longer lasting?

Thanks.

magicbastarder

116 seems like an unusual size, though 115 and 117.5 are available

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/shimano-un300-british-thread-bottom-bracket/rp-prod198919?gs=1&sku=sku799143

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119032945#Comment_119032945

Interested myself. I have one that clamps to my seat post, but it’s awful.

CantGetNoSleep

If I want to add a long cage rear derailleur on a bike with Shimano 105 5700 10-speed shifters, what are my options? Will Tiagra or GRX work? (these are much more readily available than a 105 derailleur from two series ago)

I have a feeling that I read somewhere that pull ratios changed at some point on 10-speed Shimano and it isn't the case that you can mix and match from anything 10-speed road but I am not sure)

(I know the Shimano compatibility charts will answer this question - but I can't seem to find them on the website)

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119048599#Comment_119048599

I would have thought most Shimano Square tapers were as robust as each other once fitted properly. I've used the UN55s without issue and got an outrageous amount of mileage out of it, I'd say north of 30000km before I sold it as is, and no sign of issues. Never seen a 116 before but if correct, then a 115 should be fine.

Weepsie

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119069356#Comment_119069356

They won't. Or they won't work well and have some indexing issues.

Tiagra 4600, 105 5700 or Ultegra 6700 are what you really want.

CantGetNoSleep

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119070467#Comment_119070467

That is what I thought - thanks

Luxman

My rear disc brakes (Ultegra 8050) recently started to make a , for want of a batter description , gurgling type sound. Summer bike only dusted off recently. Pads are not worn, rotors are in good nick. Ive only ever had to re-centre the pads. On googling the problem, the suggestions are to raise the calliper away from the centre of the rotor as the noise is caused by the pads skipping over the arm section of the rotor. Doesn't see likely to me as wear wouldn't cause it to happen all of a sudden. Anyone seen this before and know the real reason for the noise? Thanks