the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

Pompous

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tube-Strap-Original/dp/B0746LNW8M

Tube straps are pretty strong and have a rubber coating to prevent slippage. You can strap things pretty tight with them and they're quite handy to apply/remove.

DaveyDave

Time to replace the chain on my ebike. I usually do the big cog big chainring method but the Park Tool website suggests adding an extra link/2 rivets for 1x drivetrains but that's for 42t+ cassettes, I'm using 25t.

I suppose 1 extra link won't make much difference if I don't need it with 25t, just wondering why as you still go big/big for sizing 1x.

magicbastarder

not sure if i understand the question; you obviously want the chain to be long enough to cope with the gear which makes the greatest 'use' of the chain?

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119256933#Comment_119256933

Think he means why would you need to add an additional link on top of the measured length if you use the biggest gears.

It’s probably to prevent stretching, usually with a 2x setup you’d get cross-chaining and you’d generally not do big ring up front, big ring rear, but with a 1x you need to account for that

Tombo2001

hopefully this falls within being not too stupid.

Does it matter if you dont wash/ clean a road bike (ever).

Large bottle small glass

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119257652#Comment_119257652

The only real benefit from a safety point of view is spotting cracking in frame/fork/rims before it fails catastrophically.

CramCycle

The worse that will happen, it won't be as efficient (significantly so) and when you have to change something it will be a pain in the hoop but plenty of bikes never even get lubed in Dublin and survive just fine.

DaveyDave

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119257640#Comment_119257640

Yeah just wondering why an extra link is needed when using the same big cog big chainring measurement. Sure it's only one link, even if it wasn't needed it probably wouldn't make a huge difference!

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119257652#Comment_119257652

if you were cycling in cold weather after the roads had been gritted, i suspect it might mean your bike might be more of a sponge for salt and rust faster.

DaveyDave

Couldn't get the chain off at all, so down to the bike shop in the end! Need a better chain breaker as mine is tiny so no leverage. I think it was a KMC ebike specific chain, not sure what the difference is aside from not being able to take it off!

JMcL

I was replacing a derailleur hanger today, and when trying to put the wheel back in, the entire cassette, freehub body and all, started to slide off the axle. It's a DT Swiss PR 1600 Spline wheel, which according to the spec sheet uses the "Rachet System 18" freehub system, which I assume think is this one https://www.dtswiss.com/en/wheels/wheels-technology/ratchet-technology That page says that the freehub is tool free maintenance, and it looks like it's supposed to slide on and off, but should it do so with the cassette in place? It's a newish bike, but I've had the wheel off a fair few times all the same and never noticed it before.I tried taking the cassette off to investigate a bit further, but couldn't for the life of me budge the lockring. It's torqued really tightly and as i've only got a fairly sh1t3 adjustable spanner to hand, I decided I liked my knuckles as they are.

So is this something that's normal with DT Swiss freehubs or should I get me to the LBS tomorrow? With the wheel back in, it's pedaling fine on the stand, and gear changing is fine

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119268217#Comment_119268217

As far as I know it can come off quite easily even with the cassette in place. Just be careful when its not on the bike. .

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119270117#Comment_119270117

I chanced a short spin on it this morning as I figured that it wasn't going anywhere when bolted into the dropouts anyway, or whatever they're now called in the through axel world, and all was fine. I'll have to be careful so when transporting the bike with the wheels off, there are a least a pair of springs either side of the rachets that could easily go awry if it did drop off

Roberto_gas

Folks i am not able to get front derailleur move to half click to do bit of cross chaining on climbs ! anything i can do for a quick fix using barrell adjuster or anything else ? Thanks in advance

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119271753#Comment_119271753

I hate to give you the obvious answer as you haven't mentioned groupset, but maybe just don't crosschain. There should be overlap of gear after the midpoint. I say this knowing I crosschain all the time but some groupsets and chains don't mind as much.

When you mention the half click I presume you are on the old Shimano groupsets, I think the newer ones don't really need it. Anyway, for many small small leaves too much slack and big big can be a stretch, so just don't do it unless you have no choice.

Roberto_gas

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119272069#Comment_119272069

I am on 105 rim…Thanks…i prefer staying in higher gear in front on small climbs not to lose momentum! Or maybe i just need to move to lower ring and use higher gears on back !

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119271753#Comment_119271753

I had something like this a few years ago. I think your cable i probably too tight, so you can try the barrel adjuster. If it's (barrel adjuster) fully closed in already, you'll have to loosen the cable a bit using the pinch blot

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119272080#Comment_119272080

Adjusting the cable should sort it if its the older 105, the newer one (possibly all 11 speed Shimano) shouldn't need it at all if set up right. In regards momentum, I used to change front and back at the same time and it would feel like you only dropped one gear most of the time, peoples mileage may differ.

wheelo01

Quick two stupid questions, now that Covid has struck and I now have some time to myself.

I have bought a new chain, and am going to fit it and some new brake discs.

1. Do I degrease the chain before fitting it, or do I use what's on it as its first lube?

The split pin is a bit new to me, in that it has what I would see as the normal flat on both sides , but is has an extra pointy bit.

2. How do I break this to it's necessary size? Just bend and snap with a vice grip after fitting, or cut with a hacksaw prior to fitting? Or something completely different?

Photo of split pin below.

Screenshot_20220701-161841_Gallery.jpg

Thanks in advance.

cletus

Once the pin is in, the guide piece should just snap off with a pair of pliers

*Edit for spelling*

wheelo01

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119277129#Comment_119277129

Cheers, any knowledge on question 1?

Clean chain first, or not?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119277780#Comment_119277780

Knowledge? No. I can tell you that I don't degrease a new chain before putting it on, but you'll find any number on websites arguing for both sides.

magicbastarder

i don't use split pins, i use magic/quick links. much less faff.

Seth Brundle

1. I get a few hundred kms out of the factory lube on a new chain and probably could get more.

2. It should snap off with a pair of pliers or vice grips

Edit: I'm assuming you have shortened the chain to match the number of links on your old chain. You'll need a chain splitting tool for this.

wheelo01

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119278285#Comment_119278285

I haven't done, but did know that I had to do it first, but thanks for the reminder, I could easily have forgotten with my memory

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119277875#Comment_119277875

I didn't realise that was an option, I presumed they were only an emergency fix, I have some in my saddle bag, I might just use that option.

Thanks guys.

cletus

If you have a quick link, I'd definitely use that over the pin

Not strictly maintenance but not worth starting a new thread about.

I got new Favero Power pedals a few months ago that came with new red cleats (Look, I think). The booklet said they had to be used with the pedals, which went onto the good bike.

However, when I went to use my winter bike which is on the trainer and has standard pedals, the cleats didn't fit. Couldn't clip in.

I only have one pair of shoes so if I want to jump on the winter bike which is on the trainer I need to swap the cleats or else put the good bike on the trainer. Both a pain in the rear.

Does this mean I have to change the pedals too on the winter bike to use them or get a second pair of shoes with Shimano cleats on them?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303703#Comment_119303703

I don't use spd-sl pedals, but it sounds like you may need Look pedals for the trainer bike.

It just so happens that I have a set of Look Keo pedals here.

If they are what you need, you're welcome to them

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303765#Comment_119303765

Is it that Look Keo cleats only work with Look pedals?

I was at the LBS this morning explaining my situation and the guy fairly quickly shot down my thinking that I need new pedals for trainer bike. 'Change the cleats and never the pedals' was his saying, which sounded a bit dubious to me.

Thanks a million for the offer but I'm in Cork so that would probably be a pain in the arse for you...

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119303945#Comment_119303945

I don't believe that Shimano spd-sl and Look Keo are interchangeable.

I would understand changing the cleats as it's the cheaper option, but if you have two different pedals, it makes no sense to switch between clears on your shoes every time you want to switch bikes.

Someone with more knowledge than me will probably be along soon, but my understanding is if the cleats and pedals on your road bike and shoes are Look Keo, then you'll need Look Keo pedals on the trainer bike to have all compatible