the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

That'd be my thinking as well, though the adjuster doesn't seem to want to rotate in either direction - I might give it a go with pliers to see if there's any give.

i'll check mine in the morning; trying to remember if possibly thre barrel adjuster has to be pulled out before it will move?

Cookie_Monster

Is there such thing as a dual garmin mounting for a canyon aerocockbit set of bars? One that has the 90 degree turn lock for a garmin above and a light below?

Roberto_gas

Do people use protective tapes on their carbon frames? If yes any suggestions? thanks

MangleBadger

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119334810#Comment_119334810

Try RaceWare they do all sorts of custom 3d printed mounts

https://www.racewaredirect.co/

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119332132#Comment_119332132

So to update, I slacked off the pinch bolts and despite it looking like there had been some slack in the cable, this allowed the actuator arm move out a bit to engage the lock nut. I also discovered that the rear barrel adjuster was fully screwed out, not in, so changed that. Brakes seem to be slightly better now, but there's still a lot of pull required in the levers before they engage. I suspect therefore that I've got a bleed kit winging its way to me in the near future, and I'll be conservative on the brakes in the meantime - not that that'll be easy as I'm off to Serre Chevalier next week, though I suspect I'll be sticking to the valley floor - I'll use the brakes rather than my lack of fitness as an excuse 😁 (not that that's flat - it still rises 800m in about 25km from Briancon to Col du Lautaret - look at the start of today's stage of Le Tour 😬)

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119334083#Comment_119334083

Cheers. I did get the rear to move after slacking off and re-tightening the pinch bolt, but the front refuses to budge in either direction

Mundo7976

The cable itself might need replacing, did mine last year & it helped alot.

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119335027#Comment_119335027

Aye, it may well do - I'd suspect a bit of stretching anyway. The whole bike needs a bit of TLC as it's the one that gets mainly used for winter/bad weather, and I've done little beyond cleaning, lubing, and a couple of new chains over the past few years. The bottom bracket needs looked at and from looking at it closely while fiddling with the brake yesterday, the cassette is due a change as well. I'll change the cables as well. I think a bit of shopping over the next month or two followed by a big service is on the cards

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119332888#Comment_119332888

Lubed the thru axle threads, took it out for a 20 mile spin. Still has a creak, but I can't replicate it. Seems completely random, and also definitely seems to be coming from the stem area. Had a bit of a look, and I think I have a suspect.

When I got the bike, one of the first things I did was flip the stem. Looking at it, I made the rookie mistake (in my excitement) of unevenly tightening the stem bolts at the handlebar. This meant that the gap at the top of the "face plate" (?) was much smaller than the gap at the bottom.

I've evened that out, now, so if I can get out for a spin tomorrow, we'll see

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119346351#Comment_119346351

Ah yes good shout. Hopefully you’ve nailed it

fun loving criminal

Not a maintenance question but ebike question. Recently bought an e-bike and worried about taking it out in this heatwave. And storing it outside all day in direct sunlight. Should I take the battery out when locked at work (work is a safe place and won't get stolen). But can't imagine heat being any good on the bike all day.

cletus

Bike should be ok, but I'd take the battery out all right

traco

I picked up a second hand bike to see if I will take to this cycling malarky. Been getting used to the bike as very different to my usual beater for tipping around locally on. Did a baseline test last week and I'm crap but it was the first real proper test on the bike.

Its a Plant X Nanolight 920 running SRAM Force groupset with Fulcrum Racing 400 wheels. So its a very nice build and figured for the price I couldn't go wrong really. It needs a tune up and I think I might get a new chain while I am at it. Now bear in mind I don't know much about bike maintenance but wouldn't be a novice spanner spinner. So I'm thinking a strip and very thorough clean and degrease of all components. Relube all bearings etc, new cables and shrouds all round and a reset of all the components.

Is that something I should attempt myself or should I just pay a pro to do it. I have decent tools and do most of the work on my hobby cars but as I said bikes are a new field. The reason I'd do it myself is that I would get to know the bike properly and makes ongoing maintenance and repairs much handier. If doing myself is there any good youtube vids on how to do etc that you'd recommend?

Pic for ref:

magicbastarder

some of the bearings will be sealed bearings so might not need work. first thing to do is pick up a chain wear checker (i got one in halfords for about 8 or 9 quid a few years back), and that will tell you whether or not you need to replace the chain; for me once it gets near 0.75% i change it (and others would be more conservative, changing at 0.5%)

regarding it needing a tune-up - is there anything specific you've spotted?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119358084#Comment_119358084

Go for it. The best resource (of many, many on YouTube) is the Park Tools channel. Videos of pretty much any job you might want to do.

The only thing that might hold you back is that there are some bike specific tools you might not have. Personally, I look at this as an opportunity to buy more tools...

traco

Cheers, ordered a chain check tool on amazon prime day last week along with a few other bits and bobs.

I think the braking could be a bit better and the shift on the front isn't great. Will drop down fine but hit and miss going up. Rear shift is much better but the odd time it seems to be slightly off perfect aligment hence changing cables and what not.

magicbastarder

I have the dreaded creak/tick seemingly from the bb, while under load. Dropped the bike into the bike shop the other day and Derek popped the bb out and regreased it, and put it back in. No difference.

I copped while out on the bike this evening that the sound really only occurs when in the small ring; if using the big ring and sane approximate gear ratio and effort, there's bugger all noise. So I guess next step is to grease the chainring bolts, concentrating on the ones for the small ring.

magicbastarder

also, it's much more prominent on the power stroke of my right foot, and it's ultegra 6800, so i'm hoping it's not the famous ultegra crank failure. i'd read somewhere that it's more likely to occur on bikes where water had gotten into the crank, and this is my dry weather bike.

magicbastarder

i have list of things i need to tick off - regrease the dropouts, check the seatpost (happens more when i'm out of the saddle though), headset maybe, chainring bolts, apparently can be from a slightly loose cassette...

hesker

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119361300#Comment_119361300

Ultegra crank issue was attributed to water vapour ingress rather than water ingress so dry weather cycling won’t prevent it happening. There was a tendency for it to happen more so in more humid climate but given air always has moisture in it then it’s only a matter of time really.

By the way I had a similar problem on the power stroke that I swore was BB related. Turned out to be a loose bolt on one of the chainstay connections.

I also get it if wheel skewers are too tight.

magicbastarder

a loose bolt on the chainstay? you mean a derailleur hanger bolt?

CramCycle

It was the chainring bolts were a little loose caused it once for me.

hesker

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119361682#Comment_119361682

Yes but might not have been driveside. Can’t remember. Bike has replaceable dropouts both sides.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119346351#Comment_119346351

This did not solve the creak.

I have an idea though. I think it could be the bung in the steerer tube needs tightening. I'll check it out tomorrow.

On a separate note, I've no idea how long I'll keep the tubeless setup (depends on how much of a faff it is), but the Panaracer tyres I had with tubes on the old bike definitely feel more "cushy" set up tuebless on the new bike

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119362302#Comment_119362302

Mine weren't loose, but I took the rings off, and greased all the contact surfaces and the bolts and the creak is gone.

Luxman

Hi

i have a 6870 di2 setup. Went away for 10 days and left bike in the shed with about 60% left on the battery. Wasn’t too surprised that it may have gone flat in that time so went to charge it and nada. No lights on the charger. No gear movement. Nothing. Is there anyway to revive it? It’s only about 18 months old. Bike wasn’t moved or and nothing knocked against it. Any ideas?

Squidgy Black

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119365975#Comment_119365975

Is the battery in the seat tube? Might be worth trying to pop it out and seeing if there’s any moisture etc, try and dry it out.

If you connect it to E-Tube do you get any diagnostic errors?

Luxman

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119366278#Comment_119366278

I’ve taken the battery out and reset the cable. No moisture in there. I’m snookered with E-TUBE as I run a Mac and the VM stuff scares me!! Don’t have a wireless dongle to connect via a phone.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119364921#Comment_119364921

So, the steerer bung was loose. But that's not the issue.

Out for a cycle this evening, and I now think it may be coming from (wait for it) the BB. Or at least that area. I'll check chainring bolts etc tomorrow

magicbastarder

i am a recent convert to the 'creaks are caused by chainring bolts' cause and would like you to subscribe to my newsletter.

cletus

So. I spent ages checking every bolt, removing, regreasing, tightening, but nothing seemed loose, or a likely culprit.

Then I noticed that the brake hose for the rear brake (internally routed) could move easily in the down tube. When it moves, it makes exactly the sound I've been hearing. This would also explain why I couldn't replicate the sound with braking, accelerating, going over bumps. It's random.

I went up to where it enters the down tube and saw this

I assume there should be a bung here. I'm also assuming that said bung is inside the frame, knocking off the down tube