the 'there's no such thing as a stupid question' bike maintenance thread

magicbastarder

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119195126#Comment_119195126

if the indexing is fine on the other cogs, i wouldn't turn it just yet; easier and quicker to check a limit screw than it is to reindex gears if you throw the indexing off with the barrel adjuster.

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119195204#Comment_119195204

Yeah, I'd only adjust the cable if there was tension on it when shifted as far outboard as possible. That's an easy enough check.

Marty Bird

Morning Guys,

I’m currently riding a set of Mavic Cosmic Carbons Pro Exalith the rear wheel has developed a crack, I was looking online for a suitable replacement would this one below be fine ? I currently have Shimano Ultegra R8000 group set and it’s a rim break. Thanks.

https://www.deporvillage.net/mavic-cosmic-sl-40-rear-wheel-for-shimano-11v-tubeless-core

Marty Bird

Also I need a new cassette and chain what’s the difference in the sizing and what should I go for? Thanks again.

JMcL

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119200433#Comment_119200433

How big you can go will depend on whether your rear derailleur is short or mid cage. Shimano have a document with a guide as to what works with what, but if memory serves they recommend max 28 largest sprocket for the short cage, medium cage will go up to 34. They're also noted for being quite conservative in these recommendations, but I'd read up about it before trying to push the boundaries.

What size depends on what you're doing. If you've legs like oak trees and want to not have a big jumps in gearing (effectively if you're racing), look at 11-25. Otherwise 11-28 if you're on short cage, and 11-32 or 11-34 if you're not bothered about gaps in gearing and want to make it easy as possible to get up hills.

Look at 105 components if you want to save some cash at the expense of a few extra grams

[Edit: Fixed typo in original]

Marty Bird

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119201963#Comment_119201963

Thanks for the info, I’m brutal for any of this tech stuff would this be ok for my set up ?

https://www.deporvillage.net/shimano-ultegra-r8000-11-speed-lc-cassette

11-32 for the cassette

https://www.deporvillage.net/shimano-ultegra-xt-hg701-chain-11-speeds-116-ql-links

And this chain ?

magicbastarder

if you've the short cage derailleur, officially it can only go up to 30 teeth on the cassette. i suspect there's wiggle room there though.

CramCycle

Most chains will be longer than you need, count the links in your current chain and shorten your new chain to match (you'll have to buy a chain breaker if you don't have one). Same for the cassette, unless there was something wrong with the gearing, get the same again. You'll need a shimano lockring tool to tighten the cassette up once you put it on.

I'd recommend getting a chain with a quick link (not a pin) as they are easier to fit IMO.

If you are around South Dublin or South Wexford I'll lend you whatever tools you need

Marty Bird

Thanks for the info guys, the rear wheel I linked earlier would that be a like for like replacement on my current one ?

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119203442#Comment_119203442

Yes and no, yes in that you can slot it in and ride as a replacement and the only change you would have to make is possibly tighten or loosen the brakes dependent on rim width. No in that they won't match your front visually but it won't be far of it and unless you are tied to it being a perfect match, it will operate just fine. The Cosmics, and someone can correct me, are a bit deeper.

For the same money you could pick up a set of Alloy Hunts so you have matching wheels that are fairly light and now you have an emergency front wheel. Also if the rear hub is OK, you might get a wheelbuilder to pick up a decent rim and build up a decent back up rear wheel as well for a reasonable price but I don't know enough about Mavic hubs to see if this is worthwhile.

Marty Bird

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119203686#Comment_119203686

Just on the hunt wheels what would recommend?

would these be a similar type set to the cosmic carbons ?

https://eu.huntbikewheels.com/products/hunt-55carbon-wide-aero-road-wheelset-1549g-55deep-26wide-999?variant=32183359504439

JMcL

I just noticed what looks to be a bulging o-ring sitting just above the head tube when I was putting the bike back on the car rack after the W100 the other day. You can see it n the photo below. There are two of them - the one bulging out, then another over that just below the (rigid) ring marked "IS2". The both appear to be a thin, soft rubber or plastic material and I imagine are to keep water out. It's a Van Nicholas and the headset is marked "Tange Seiki TechoGlide" which, while a new one on me, appear to have been around for a long time.

It looks like I can just ease the bulging bit back under the other, but curious as to whether it's anything to worry about

cletus

I'd be inclined to open it up and have a look. If that seal/whatever is soft and has extruded like that, it's likely to be out of shape and might need replacing. I'd also just be curious as to how the headset looks re. water and dirt ingress.

Having said all that, it's probably not anything particularly serious

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119204068#Comment_119204068

Yes but I suppose a better question would be what type of riding are you doing, there are alloy wheels which are lighter for half the price. https://eu.huntbikewheels.com/products/hunt-race-season-aero-wide-road-wheelset-1480g-31deep-24wide

I can lend you a pair if you want to try them out.

Once it's a road wheel for rim brakes and has a Shimano hub you are almost guaranteed to be sorted. If money is not a concern, then any of the wheels you have linked so far will do the job very nicely. Carbon looks nicer but the benefits are only really apparent if racing (IMO).

Long story short, if you are concerned about value and want to get good bang for buck but are not racing, then go with the above or similar. If you don't care about the cost, just want something that looks bling or is for racing, pretty much every wheel you have linked so far will do the job.

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119204068#Comment_119204068

Hi Marty,

If you’re interested in a set of Mavic Cosmic Pro Carbon wheels, let me know.

Can be supplied with tyres, cassette and chain also as per your current setup

No worries if you’re already sorted or if you’ve decided on something else 👍

Marty Bird

Yeah I would, can you send me some details on them thanks.

Marty Bird

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119207124#Comment_119207124

Yeah Cram they’re for racing thanks for the help appreciate it.

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119208781#Comment_119208781

You'll race fine on the alloys, won my first two races on my set at A3 level but since its not just for rolling around hills and you have the cash, go for the carbons. They look faster, therefore they are faster #fact. At that price range, what your looking for is reasonable weight (sub 1600g, preferably less than 1500g (my carbons are 1350g but are 1599euro from a quick google, 50mm deep, stupid money and could get the same for cheaper somewhere I am sure) and some aerodynamic properties. Anywhere between 30 and 50mm is appropriate for Irish road races (IMO), anything deeper is likely to get yanked by the wind, and anything less, well, why bother. All of the wheels you linked are decent. I would pick the HUNTS but only because I like the look, no real benefit other than that as far as I can tell unless you stick up all your options and we can get really technical but realistically, for the Irish road racing scene, it isn't your wheels at most levels that make the difference. They might help but they won't be the deciding factor in 99.9% of cases.

A better question at this point is what is your budget?

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119208778#Comment_119208778

Not sure what the forum rules say exactly but the handiest thing is for you to send me a message and we can swap details there

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119208884#Comment_119208884

This isn't the adverts forum so as long as you take the discussion to PM you are fine AFAIK

fryup

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119193559#Comment_119193559

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119193652#Comment_119193652

what way do i turn the cable barrel towards me or away from me?

cletus

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119222799#Comment_119222799

You're looking to reduce tension, so turn it clockwise. Essentially you're closing it down

fryup

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119222857#Comment_119222857

that's standing behind the barrel? i.e. behind the bike

cletus

Yeah, standing behind the bike, in general. When you turn the adjuster, you'll see the inner metal piece move in or out of the housing that you actually turn. You want it to move into the housing

That direction (if this picture doesn't muddy the waters even more 😀)

Brian?

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119195126#Comment_119195126

No.

The barrel adjuster fine tunes the indexing. But for the top and bottom gear your use the Limit screws.

If I’m going to adjust the H screw, I shift it into the smallest cog. Open the cable clamp screw and take all the tension off the cable. Bottom out the barrel adjuster. Adjust the H screw. Then tension the cable again and fine tune your shifting using the barrel adjuster.

You don’t need to do this very often though. Indexing problems can be solved using the barrel adjust most of the time.

Mr. Cats

I’m thinking to convert a short cage Ultegra 8050 RD to medium cage. I can that the parts are available here:

https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Rear-Derailleur-Cage-outer-Plate-medium-Cage-Ultegra-RD-R8050-GS

and here:

https://r2-bike.com/SHIMANO-Rear-Derailleur-Cage-inner-Plate-medium-Cage-Ultegra-RD-R8050-GS

Just wondering if anyone else has done this? Aim is to run a 36x32 or possibly a 34x32 - currently on 36x28. Is it a difficult conversion?

I saw some suggestion that it’s not Just the cage length that’s relevant for what cassette size can be run but I didn’t really understand it. Besides a new chain, is there anything else to consider?

nicksnikita

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119230105#Comment_119230105

I’ve dismantled rear derailleurs for maintenance (6700 and 6800 variants) and as far as I can see, you have the parts required for your conversion outlined. But Having never done this exact job I can’t say for sure if that’s all you will need or if it will be successful.

Have you considered changing the small ring to a 34 instead of the 36? Then you could run 34-30 at least...

Mr. Cats

Hadnt thought of that but a bit worried I would miss the lower gears moving from 52 to 50 for descending. Maybe it’s not something that you’d notice in reality? Assume I would need to change to 50/34 as 52/34 is not recommended?

nicksnikita

It’s not recommended to run 52-34 but not condemned as far as I know.

There may be someone’s here who runs it?

I guess if the front derailleur is set correctly and chain is correct length, there shouldn’t be an issue

CramCycle

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119232620#Comment_119232620

In reality, unless you are spinning out with the 52 at the front, you won't notice it being a 50.

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119232786#Comment_119232786

I think Mr.Cats is changing down to 50 but to answer this, technically Shimano say its to big a drop (someone can correct me, off the top of my head they say no more than 16 teeth in the difference), in reality, it should be fine.