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Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread

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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,748 ✭✭✭ganmo


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Cable from the topcon receiver on the roof

    What's next on the wishlist?


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,383 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    ganmo wrote: »
    What's next on the wishlist?

    Have to get dribble bars now


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,447 ✭✭✭Never wrestle with pigs



    If I was looking for a valtra 8050 or 8150 dawg over your way, where would the best place be to look ? Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    If I was looking for a valtra 8050 or 8150 dawg over your way, where would the best place be to look ? Thanks

    Agriaffaires.com. French version.
    Leboncoin is excellent for older stuff.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,119 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    Is there a way to reverse the pull cord on a small engine pump?
    I recently bought one but the setup of it is all wrong for my needs - with it setup in orientation I need for the pump, the pull cord pulls into a wall. I need to have it reversed so I can pull it outwards into the free space.

    Any ideas? I've thought about putting a pulley on the pump and reversing the direction around it, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to pull with this in place. Can the faceplate containing the pull mechanism be replaced with something that counter rotates?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭mayota


    Is there a way to reverse the pull cord on a small engine pump?
    I recently bought one but the setup of it is all wrong for my needs - with it setup in orientation I need for the pump, the pull cord pulls into a wall. I need to have it reversed so I can pull it outwards into the free space.

    Any ideas? I've thought about putting a pulley on the pump and reversing the direction around it, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to pull with this in place. Can the faceplate containing the pull mechanism be replaced with something that counter rotates?

    Is it a Honda gx? If so you should be able to bolt off and rotate the pull cord assembly. https://images.app.goo.gl/Aj1Y3htsAejHkBFCA


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,119 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey




  • Registered Users Posts: 8,119 ✭✭✭funkey_monkey


    mayota wrote: »
    Is it a Honda gx? If so you should be able to bolt off and rotate the pull cord assembly. https://images.app.goo.gl/Aj1Y3htsAejHkBFCA


    Ah - I think I know what you mean now.


    I'll take a look later to see if the holes align to allow rotation.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,545 ✭✭✭mayota


    Ah - I think I know what you mean now.


    I'll take a look later to see if the holes align to allow rotation.

    Ya. It might even work to pull straight up.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭tractorporn


    Looking for a bit of advice from the tillage boardsies.

    I grow a small area of oats every year and with the way things are looking I'm thinking of expanding the area sown. Up until now I have just gotten the contractor to come and do all the work.

    But with the increase in area I'm thinking about buying some second hand tillage gear and taking back some of the work myself. I was thing about maybe a harrow and a Massey seed drill.

    Is this a feasible option or am I wasting my time? I would probably leave the contractor the ploughing for the time being.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭queueeye


    Looking for a bit of advice from the tillage boardsies.

    I grow a small area of oats every year and with the way things are looking I'm thinking of expanding the area sown. Up until now I have just gotten the contractor to come and do all the work.

    But with the increase in area I'm thinking about buying some second hand tillage gear and taking back some of the work myself. I was thing about maybe a harrow and a Massey seed drill.

    Is this a feasible option or am I wasting my time? I would probably leave the contractor the ploughing for the time being.
    How many acres are you planning to sow?What type of tractor do you have at the moment? If it’s good enough to harrow then it’ll be good enough to plough. No need to go spending crazy money initially on gear, there’s loads of relatively cheap stuff on DoneDeal etc. Makes perfect sense to so as much work as you can yourself if you’ve got the time.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Looking for a bit of advice from the tillage boardsies.

    I grow a small area of oats every year and with the way things are looking I'm thinking of expanding the area sown. Up until now I have just gotten the contractor to come and do all the work.

    But with the increase in area I'm thinking about buying some second hand tillage gear and taking back some of the work myself. I was thing about maybe a harrow and a Massey seed drill.

    Is this a feasible option or am I wasting my time? I would probably leave the contractor the ploughing for the time being.

    Is it just oats you’re thinking on planting?
    If so you’d get away with the simplest of simple systems, crude even.
    Oats will grow anywhere and will establish where the likes of barley wouldn’t.
    In your situation I’d stay away from the plough because you’re making weed control more difficult in the long run. Direct drill. The MF30 kitted out with disc coulters would be grand. Keep tilling the ground to be planted to eliminate weeds and drill when it suits you....or if you’ll be using cover crops, roll the cover crops before planting (in the exact same direction that you’ll be drilling) and drill direct with the MF30. Simples.

    If you’re thinking on continuous oats it would be very important not to have any machinery other than your own on the land. Oat mosaic virus is spread by machinery etc and ruins the land from ever growing oats.
    Oat mosaic is quite common in the oat growing hinterland of Flahavans.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

    Is it bunded or double skinned?

    If not €5k fine right there!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Is it bunded or double skinned?

    If not €5k fine right there!

    Oh I would say so. Them.guys do everything right.
    Made by broughan


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,211 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

    I thought that was a water tank.
    I was told they had a water tank on standby when cutting the oilseed rape.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,368 ✭✭✭tractorporn


    queueeye wrote: »
    How many acres are you planning to sow?What type of tractor do you have at the moment? If it’s good enough to harrow then it’ll be good enough to plough. No need to go spending crazy money initially on gear, there’s loads of relatively cheap stuff on DoneDeal etc. Makes perfect sense to so as much work as you can yourself if you’ve got the time.



    Is it just oats you’re thinking on planting?
    If so you’d get away with the simplest of simple systems, crude even.
    Oats will grow anywhere and will establish where the likes of barley wouldn’t.
    In your situation I’d stay away from the plough because you’re making weed control more difficult in the long run. Direct drill. The MF30 kitted out with disc coulters would be grand. Keep tilling the ground to be planted to eliminate weeds and drill when it suits you....or if you’ll be using cover crops, roll the cover crops before planting (in the exact same direction that you’ll be drilling) and drill direct with the MF30. Simples.

    If you’re thinking on continuous oats it would be very important not to have any machinery other than your own on the land. Oat mosaic virus is spread by machinery etc and ruins the land from ever growing oats.
    Oat mosaic is quite common in the oat growing hinterland of Flahavans.


    Hoping to push to a rotation size of around 80 acres, that would be split roughly into one third red clover and two thirds cereals. I am thinking of a 6 year rotation of 2 yrs clover 3 years oats and a final year of combi crop under sown back to red clover? All of this would be in organic production.

    Currently we have a 95hp tractor but hoping to change in the new year to 130hp if finances allow. I was hoping to get a combination harrow rather than a power harrow second hand the thinking would be that there are less moving parts to go wrong and a decent Massey 30 drill. I have a flat roller which will do for now and a plough would be last on the list once we got up and running properly.

    Any of the above sound batsh1t crazy to you lads?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    I thought that was a water tank.
    I was told they had a water tank on standby when cutting the oilseed rape.

    I wouldn't say so, they could get a slurry tanker to do that.


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,130 ✭✭✭Grueller


    Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

    Does that man do sp silage as well?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,801 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

    Be better off to get it delivered to the machines than be fluting around with that thing and wondering when it’s going to be nicked.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Grueller wrote: »
    Does that man do sp silage as well?

    No. Tillage and agribusiness


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Odelay wrote: »
    Be better off to get it delivered to the machines than be fluting around with that thing and wondering when it’s going to be nicked.

    That logic can go for any implement you would buy. Very little of that goes on now
    I would say it's to help with down time, not waiting on a truck to come and all machines can be filled at the start of the day and kept going all day.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Hoping to push to a rotation size of around 80 acres, that would be split roughly into one third red clover and two thirds cereals. I am thinking of a 6 year rotation of 2 yrs clover 3 years oats and a final year of combi crop under sown back to red clover? All of this would be in organic production.

    Currently we have a 95hp tractor but hoping to change in the new year to 130hp if finances allow. I was hoping to get a combination harrow rather than a power harrow second hand the thinking would be that there are less moving parts to go wrong and a decent Massey 30 drill. I have a flat roller which will do for now and a plough would be last on the list once we got up and running properly.

    Any of the above sound batsh1t crazy to you lads?

    2yrs of legume and you’d expect the oats to stand without growth regulator?

    I’d go power harrow. More flexibility. 130hp would easily handle a 3m...might need it if you’ve heavy clay.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Odelay wrote: »
    Be better off to get it delivered to the machines than be fluting around with that thing and wondering when it’s going to be nicked.

    Unless you owned an oil company you’d be at nothing...they’re not going to call twice a day. I’ve a yoke that takes 350L and only gets 10hrs work from a tank.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

    Do you think that’s a one off manufacture or do they do a line of them?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Do you think that’s a one off manufacture or do they do a line of them?

    If they made it once I'm sure they'd make another one. First time I have seen one like that though.
    They have 3 or 4 broughan trailers aswell. Nearly made too strong tbh. First load of wheat that they carried and the rims split because of the weight


  • Registered Users Posts: 5,130 ✭✭✭Grueller


    No. Tillage and agribusiness

    Filling mainly case tractors so.


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,432 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    2yrs of legume and you’d expect the oats to stand without growth regulator?

    I’d go power harrow. More flexibility. 130hp would easily handle a 3m...might need it if you’ve heavy clay.

    Would it be better growing wheat after the clover ley? To take advantage of the nitrogen (plus reduce the risk of oats lodging),
    Would you grow kale or a green manure over winter after the cereal crop?

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users Posts: 3,863 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    Grueller wrote: »
    Filling mainly case tractors so.

    Nope different man altogether


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 20,633 ✭✭✭✭Buford T. Justice XIX


    Markcheese wrote: »
    Would it be better growing wheat after the clover ley? To take advantage of the nitrogen (plus reduce the risk of oats lodging),
    Would you grow kale or a green manure over winter after the cereal crop?

    If you get a chance, take a look at Irelands farmers over on twitter since last Sunday, a guy from BASE Ireland is tweeting about the crops and rotations he's using. Some very interesting combinations for animal feed and general tillage as well.


This discussion has been closed.
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