Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread

Options
1322323325327328334

Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    jaymla627 wrote: »
    Wouldn’t look past Pottinger here, hydraulic self leveling to set mowing height is a gift, no other manufacturer offers anything like it

    I’d two trailed Pottingers that I traded for mounted Claas mowers. Bad decision. I could never fault Pottinger. I’ll look into them. Thanks Jay.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,424 ✭✭✭Waffletraktor


    Silly season has started.

    Yield and quality?

    NH handling the wbarley ok? Looks well ripe.
    Cant thresh barley very well with their own cruise control software, well unless you like a few hundred kg/ha left behind so driving it manually. The rotor behind feeder house before the twin-rotors for evening out crop flow shat a bearing at 27 drum hours and trailer boy earned brownie points as it had started to smoke...
    Driver casually mentioned to a Nh combine specialist he hopes it can atleast cut wheat like a claas.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,873 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    I’ve two Krone mowers. Just after buying a new skid for the smaller one (8ft) and doing a bearing, replacing a hat and doing a seal in the ram. I’m thinking of selling it and buying a bigger mower. I’m happy with Krone so far and they leave a lovely clean cut also. What are people’s thoughts on Claas, Kuhn or Pottengier ?

    How many acres do you think it cut before changing the skids?
    Just changed the skids on our krone moco. Done about 3k acres we reckon


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,873 ✭✭✭GrasstoMilk


    jaymla627 wrote: »
    Wouldn’t look past Pottinger here, hydraulic self leveling to set mowing height is a gift, no other manufacturer offers anything like it

    How often do you change cutting height. Weve never changed ours


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,388 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    Thanks for the info. I might just stick with the Krone. They’re a bit soft but a good alround mower. Both mowers are non conditioner

    Not consider a KV


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 6,525 ✭✭✭jaymla627


    How often do you change cutting height. Weve never changed ours

    Have very steep sloping ground here over half the farm so literally every field has a different setting, their is guide arrows on mower linkage that when lined up mean mower is set, have pressure turned down on bed due to bolders popping up out of ground accross a lot of fields so mower is overly sensitive so needs adjusting constantly but it saves the bed from damage when it meets a rock


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,388 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    jaymla627 wrote: »
    Wouldn’t look past Pottinger here, hydraulic self leveling to set mowing height is a gift, no other manufacturer offers anything like it

    Do not think that's what it's for


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,525 ✭✭✭jaymla627


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Do not think that's what it's for

    Design of pottinger isn’t like krone/kleverland with one huge Centre ram to lower raise mower into position and a fixed headstock where you have to go setting toplink to get mower bed height right....
    Two separate rams for putting mower into transport position, when. Mowing you have to set linkage ram to a different height then transport height where it’s locked


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,388 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    jaymla627 wrote: »
    Design of pottinger isn’t like krone/kleverland with one huge Centre ram to lower raise mower into position and a fixed headstock where you have to go setting toplink to get mower bed height right....
    Two separate rams for putting mower into transport position, when. Mowing you have to set linkage ram to a different height then transport height where it’s locked

    Cant visualise that


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,065 ✭✭✭davidk1394


    jaymla627 wrote: »
    Design of pottinger isn’t like krone/kleverland with one huge Centre ram to lower raise mower into position and a fixed headstock where you have to go setting toplink to get mower bed height right....
    Two separate rams for putting mower into transport position, when. Mowing you have to set linkage ram to a different height then transport height where it’s locked

    Would they be a tougher mower than krone ?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    Cant thresh barley very well with their own cruise control software, well unless you like a few hundred kg/ha left behind so driving it manually. The rotor behind feeder house before the twin-rotors for evening out crop flow shat a bearing at 27 drum hours and trailer boy earned brownie points as it had started to smoke...
    Driver casually mentioned to a Nh combine specialist he hopes it can atleast cut wheat like a claas.

    Ouch!
    You’d expect them to do better than 27hrs work before failure...is the barley well ripe? With the Axials they’ll walk grain out in the straw if it’s any way green. Wheat blasted in with the heat this year and the straw was a bit tough. Nothing lost over the screens but shoveled it out in the straw if you kicked on...double edged sword because you need to keep the rotor well packed for max efficiency.
    Hard to beat Claas when the going gets tough. Saying that there’s a big swing away from Claas here due to running costs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,424 ✭✭✭Waffletraktor


    Cant thresh barley very well with their own cruise control software, well unless you like a few hundred kg/ha left behind so driving it manually. The rotor behind feeder house before the twin-rotors for evening out crop flow shat a bearing at 27 drum hours and trailer boy earned brownie points as it had started to smoke...
    Driver casually mentioned to a Nh combine specialist he hopes it can atleast cut wheat like a claas.

    Ouch!
    You’d expect them to do better than 27hrs work before failure...is the barley well ripe? With the Axials they’ll walk grain out in the straw if it’s any way green. Wheat blasted in with the heat this year and the straw was a bit tough. Nothing lost over the screens but shoveled it out in the straw if you kicked on...double edged sword because you need to keep the rotor well packed for max efficiency.
    Hard to beat Claas when the going gets tough. Saying that there’s a big swing away from Claas here due to running costs.
    It was a bearing casing that wasnt tightened from factory, fitter and driver and minion found them finger tight which let dust in and pushed rottor out of balance enough to do bearing on one side.
    Insurance was addi g 50k over 5 years to claas’s cost for us.
    Had a combine specialist there for a second time trying to get it going right when it happened!


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,525 ✭✭✭jaymla627


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    Would they be a tougher mower than krone ?

    On rougher sloping ground they seem to cope a lot better, would be very popular out in New Zealand and the Nordic countries because of it


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,274 ✭✭✭Gawddawggonnit


    It was a bearing casing that wasnt tightened from factory, fitter and driver and minion found them finger tight which let dust in and pushed rottor out of balance enough to do bearing on one side.
    Insurance was addi g 50k over 5 years to claas’s cost for us.
    Had a combine specialist there for a second time trying to get it going right when it happened!

    Very poor show from NH. For the price of those machines you’d expect everything to be 100%.
    Perfect time for it to happen in fairness.
    Doesn’t take much to lose confidence in a new machine when stuff like that happens.


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,388 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    jaymla627 wrote: »
    On rougher sloping ground they seem to cope a lot better, would be very popular out in New Zealand and the Nordic countries because of it

    SIP are very popular in New Zealand also so they could be considered also


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,367 ✭✭✭X6.430macman


    It was a bearing casing that wasnt tightened from factory, fitter and driver and minion found them finger tight which let dust in and pushed rottor out of balance enough to do bearing on one side. Insurance was addi g 50k over 5 years to claas’s cost for us. Had a combine specialist there for a second time trying to get it going right when it happened!


    What model NH is it? CR8.90 here going into her first season with us.. One thing I'm skeptical about is the fact that you can't reverse the rotor... Not really looking forward to the prospect of having to hang off a bar to unplug it, of course the man here is adamant that won't happen but we'll see how it goes...


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,065 ✭✭✭davidk1394


    Think I bought the wrong shade of green :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,388 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    Think I bought the wrong shade of green :P

    Is it necessary or are the front tyres abit narrow on that fendt


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,065 ✭✭✭davidk1394


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Is it necessary or are the front tyres abit narrow on that fendt

    The fendt does all the spraying. He has a wide set of tyres but didn’t bother putting them on


  • Registered Users Posts: 24,388 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    davidk1394 wrote: »
    The fendt does all the spraying. He has a wide set of tyres but didn’t bother putting them on

    Ah that makes sense


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 29,243 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    The 4wd on our tm125 is staying on. The light is on on the dash. When you push the button on your right hand side to turn it off it's staying on. In the small panel where the 4wd button is theres the diff also. Any ideas?


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,752 ✭✭✭9935452


    whelan2 wrote: »
    The 4wd on our tm125 is staying on. The light is on on the dash. When you push the button on your right hand side to turn it off it's staying on. In the small panel where the 4wd button is theres the diff also. Any ideas?

    Brake light staying on ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,243 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    9935452 wrote: »
    Brake light staying on ?

    On the dash? No


  • Registered Users Posts: 873 ✭✭✭mengele


    whelan2 wrote: »
    On the dash? No

    No id say what he means is that when you press the brakes normally does the 4wd come on? Go out and check to see are your brake lights on we hen its started. If brake lights are on it could be some stuck switch somewhere.


  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭queueeye


    whelan2 wrote: »
    The 4wd on our tm125 is staying on. The light is on on the dash. When you push the button on your right hand side to turn it off it's staying on. In the small panel where the 4wd button is theres the diff also. Any ideas?
    Check the fuse first. If it’s blown the 4wd stays on.


  • Registered Users Posts: 29,243 ✭✭✭✭whelan2


    Cant see a fuse for it here ?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,646 ✭✭✭_blaaz


    whelan2 wrote: »
    Cant see a fuse for it here ?

    Check them.all.....quickest way outta it


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Are your brake lights working? I think the 4wd and brake lights might share the same fuse.... It could also be the solenoid that's at fault. Failing that, it might need calibrating...


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,405 ✭✭✭hopeso


    Brake light fuse seems to be marked G, in the bottom right of your pic....


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 3,809 ✭✭✭Odelay


    hopeso wrote: »
    Brake light fuse seems to be marked G, in the bottom right of your pic....

    Can’t believe they are using Roman numerals on these things?


This discussion has been closed.
Advertisement