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Chain Saw Chat

1568101114

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    guys is 100ml 2 stroke enough for 5 litres petrol.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭Melodeon


    bassy wrote: »
    guys is 100ml 2 stroke enough for 5 litres petrol.

    That's 50:1, which is the standard mix for pretty much everything these days.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,877 ✭✭✭blackbox


    Melodeon wrote: »
    That's 50:1, which is the standard mix for pretty much everything these days.

    Older machines commonly require 25:1. i.e. 100ml in 2.5 litres. It's usually embossed on the filler cap.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    ive just bought a stihl 181 so I think the 50:1 ratio is ok with the 181?.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,980 ✭✭✭Genghis Cant


    Sami23 wrote: »
    Any good value website it could be got at that price I wonder ?

    I got bar oil from Donegans in Bailebourogh in Cavan.
    http://www.donegan.ie/product_info.php?cPath=64_311&products_id=2223

    5l for €12. I've got it online off them , excellent service, and I've also collected it off them when passing, if I'm up that country.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23 hempel


    Any1 have a battery dewalt chainsaw thinking of buying 1 as spare saw have dewalt tools so can swap the batteries.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 699 ✭✭✭niallam


    hempel wrote: »
    Any1 have a battery dewalt chainsaw thinking of buying 1 as spare saw have dewalt tools so can swap the batteries.


    Plenty of YouTube reviews.
    A few great reviews on the Husky battery saws by some climbers I have followed for years on IG


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hi all. I bought a husqvarna 254xp with intention of fixing it if needed. I'm new enough to fixing saws so I brought it to a shop to find out what was wrong as I tried getting it going and failed. Was told the bottom end needs attention and the piston is slightly worn aswell. My question is does the crankshaft need replacing aswell as the bearings? If the crankshaft needs replacing where would you get one. Couldnt find one anywhere online. If you grab the clutch and wiggle it slightly you can see piston moving up and down which I was told shouldn't happen.? Does this mean crank is gone or would all the bearings need replacing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Thepillowman


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Hi all. I bought a husqvarna 254xp with intention of fixing it if needed. I'm new enough to fixing saws so I brought it to a shop to find out what was wrong as I tried getting it going and failed. Was told the bottom end needs attention and the piston is slightly worn aswell. My question is does the crankshaft need replacing aswell as the bearings? If the crankshaft needs replacing where would you get one. Couldnt find one anywhere online. If you grab the clutch and wiggle it slightly you can see piston moving up and down which I was told shouldn't happen.? Does this mean crank is gone or would all the bearings need replacing.

    Hard to answer that without going in deeper if bearings haven't spun on crankshaft it should be ok. Also outer race might be loose in the crankcase or might just be play in the bearings. If you move clutch sideways from front to back of saw is there much movement.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hard to answer that without going in deeper if bearings haven't spun on crankshaft it should be ok. Also outer race might be loose in the crankcase or might just be play in the bearings. If you move clutch sideways from front to back of saw is there much movement.

    Yes if you move the clutch forward to backwards there is play. That's what the shop told me was the problem. They said there shouldn't be.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Thepillowman


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Yes if you move the clutch forward to backwards there is play. That's what the shop told me was the problem. They said there shouldn't be.

    Ok you well have to pull clutch, sprocket, oil pump and oil seal to see what the problem is.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Ok you well have to pull clutch, sprocket, oil pump and oil seal to see what the problem is.

    Thanks. I'll strip that and get back to ye then.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    A saw of that era will probably need new crank seals anyway, so if the small end has gone then you will need to find out what else has been damaged.
    New crank, crank seals, piston/ring kit at the minimum= pricey repair.
    Price a Meteor Piston/cylinder kit they are usually reasonable and are decent pistons.
    I hope you paid a low price for it because you can easily be into 1/2 the price of a good running saw with parts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Ok you well have to pull clutch, sprocket, oil pump and oil seal to see what the problem is.

    Thanks. I'll strip that and get back to ye then.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Thepillowman


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Thanks. I'll strip that and get back to ye then.

    Cleanliness been the key here before you go ripping. Scrape off anything heavy, blow off everything if you have a compressor. Some paraffin and a small paint brush and a tooth brush will do a lot. Or elbow grease from Mr price I find good. Lot easier do it now rather than later. Should be able to get a workshop manual online to download.


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  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Is it an early or late 254? Serial number will help too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭Heavy handed


    Bearings might be the issue if your finding play in the crank. Full strip down if that’s the case which isn’t a bad thing. New gasket kit along with new bearings and new oil seals and you’ve the foundation of a good saw to build off of. Just make sure to vacuum and pressure test the case afterwards


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Bearings might be the issue if your finding play in the crank. Full strip down if that’s the case which isn’t a bad thing. New gasket kit along with new bearings and new oil seals and you’ve the foundation of a good saw to build off of. Just make sure to vacuum and pressure test the case afterwards

    And don't order a single part until you have it torn down and inspected.

    A buggered crank assembly on a 2 series husky is as good as a write-off if you have to go buying the parts.

    Throw up some info on the actual saw you have and even a few pictures and I'll let you know what I reckon. I've had and have a few of these. They're great when they're good, hideously expensive to repair though depending on what's really wrong with them.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 173 ✭✭Podge201


    Any online shop to buy aspen and deliver. Local tool hire is very expensive.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 206 ✭✭Heavy handed


    JayZeus wrote: »
    And don't order a single part until you have it torn down and inspected.

    A buggered crank assembly on a 2 series husky is as good as a write-off if you have to go buying the parts.

    Throw up some info on the actual saw you have and even a few pictures and I'll let you know what I reckon. I've had and have a few of these. They're great when they're good, hideously expensive to repair though depending on what's really wrong with them.

    I’ve found L&S engineering in the uk great for parts. I rebuilt my ms880 with oem Stihl parts for half the price compared to buying them here.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,003 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    Since the thread is active with a few knowledgeable folk, quick query.

    I've a 560xp, about 4 years old which is a brilliant saw for most of what I do. 20 acre wood, which I've thinned a lot of myself plus a little firewood production.

    I have a 10 yr old ms250 with a 12" bar, which is very reliable but not very powerful. Is there anything that can be done to squeeze a little more power from them? Porting, different carburettor etc?


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Since the thread is active with a few knowledgeable folk, quick query.

    I've a 560xp, about 4 years old which is a brilliant saw for most of what I do. 20 acre wood, which I've thinned a lot of myself plus a little firewood production.

    I have a 10 yr old ms250 with a 12" bar, which is very reliable but not very powerful. Is there anything that can be done to squeeze a little more power from them? Porting, different carburettor etc?

    The 560XP is my favourite ‘new’ all-round-use saw. Great choice there. Had a 262XP and the 560 is better in every single way as a saw for work.

    Honestly, I’d find it hard to match a better small saw than the 242XP with a 560. I made the mistake of buying a 543XP and was sorry within a day or two. Not deserving of the XP badge at all. More fool me.

    The MS250’s a good saw, but compared with the XP’s, you’ll always find it wanting unless you sacrifice the reliability by modding it to make it behave like something it’s not.

    My advice, sell the 250 and pick up a 242XP. Get a good one and you will definitely not regret it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Thepillowman


    Since the thread is active with a few knowledgeable folk, quick query.

    I've a 560xp, about 4 years old which is a brilliant saw for most of what I do. 20 acre wood, which I've thinned a lot of myself plus a little firewood production.

    I have a 10 yr old ms250 with a 12" bar, which is very reliable but not very powerful. Is there anything that can be done to squeeze a little more power from them? Porting, different carburettor etc?
    Not a lot you can do with a ms250 I'd say seeing as it's a clamshell engine, someone more knowledgeable than me may know more. Could open up the muffler a bit, thought a 250 with a 12 inch bar would be lively enough. Have used one with a 16 and didn't count it too bad for what it is ie homeowners saw.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,003 ✭✭✭Large bottle small glass


    JayZeus wrote: »
    The 560XP is my favourite ‘new’ all-round-use saw. Great choice there. Had a 262XP and the 560 is better in every single way as a saw for work.

    Honestly, I’d find it hard to match a better small saw than the 242XP with a 560. I made the mistake of buying a 543XP and was sorry within a day or two. Not deserving of the XP badge at all. More fool me.

    The MS250’s a good saw, but compared with the XP’s, you’ll always find it wanting unless you sacrifice the reliability by modding it to make it behave like something it’s not.

    My advice, sell the 250 and pick up a 242XP. Get a good one and you will definitely not regret it.

    Yep 560xp has been brilliant to date.

    I'll keep and eye out for a fresh 242xp, I presume they will be like hen's teeth.

    I'll give modifying ms250 a skip so; it has been very reliable in 10 years of ownership and a lot of work and I don't want to mess up a saw which has been doing what its designed to do.

    I just want a light saw(that I don't need t be too precious with) for work where I very occasionally need a saw like fencing, short inspection paths, lowering stumps etc etc.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Yep 560xp has been brilliant to date.

    I'll keep and eye out for a fresh 242xp, I presume they will be like hen's teeth.

    I'll give modifying ms250 a skip so; it has been very reliable in 10 years of ownership and a lot of work and I don't want to mess up a saw which has been doing what its designed to do.

    I just want a light saw(that I don't need t be too precious with) for work where I very occasionally need a saw like fencing, short inspection paths, lowering stumps etc etc.

    You’ll find a magnesium alloy bodied Husqvarna 45, 51 or 55 easily. Parts are easy to get and easy to pay for. Good tough saws and the 55 with a 13-15” bar would be ideal for that sort of work IMO. A touch heavier than a 242 but a grand saw for general use around a farm. They sold them as the ‘55 rancher’ in the US. I had one for years and only parted with it when a nice 242 crossed my path. €200 would be about right in very good condition. A 51 would be a fine alternative but I’d pass on a 45 myself. Wait for a good one - there are plenty around. They’re an old model now but were as well designed and built as any of the XP saws. All made in Sweden too, before Electrolux started ‘cost engineering’ on the non-XP models.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hi lads. I stripped the 254xp down and have nearly everything off. I'm just wondering there is a brass thread on the crankshaft inside the oil pump. How does this come off? Does it stay on till you split the case or does it come before hand. Obviously I'm cautious so I dont damage it as I know how easily brass is damage. I also had a look and the bottom end bearing is definitely damaged and needs replacing. The bearing on the flywheel side seems but if I go ahead and fix the saw I'm gonna replace all bearing while I'm at it. How would you tell if the crank shaft itself is in need of replacing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 254 ✭✭Thepillowman


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Hi lads. I stripped the 254xp down and have nearly everything off. I'm just wondering there is a brass thread on the crankshaft inside the oil pump. How does this come off? Does it stay on till you split the case or does it come before hand. Obviously I'm cautious so I dont damage it as I know how easily brass is damage. I also had a look and the bottom end bearing is definitely damaged and needs replacing. The bearing on the flywheel side seems but if I go ahead and fix the saw I'm gonna replace all bearing while I'm at it. How would you tell if the crank shaft itself is in need of replacing?

    It looks as if its just pushed on I wouldn't be sure but most saws I've worked on that's the way they are.
    https://youtu.be/geuV97kG0mU
    That link may be useful didn't watch it all.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Hi lads. I stripped the 254xp down and have nearly everything off. I'm just wondering there is a brass thread on the crankshaft inside the oil pump. How does this come off? Does it stay on till you split the case or does it come before hand. Obviously I'm cautious so I dont damage it as I know how easily brass is damage. I also had a look and the bottom end bearing is definitely damaged and needs replacing. The bearing on the flywheel side seems but if I go ahead and fix the saw I'm gonna replace all bearing while I'm at it. How would you tell if the crank shaft itself is in need of replacing?

    Info for you. You might not want to hear all of it, but here goes:

    You need a special tool to remove that brass threaded part. That'll be an earlier saw in that case too. Again, give the serial number and I can confirm regarding other parts and alternatives, but the brass worm gear for the 254's from 1988 through 2002 should be 501 86 69-01. You could cobble together a puller to remove the one that's on it now, assuming you can get a new one to fit afterwards.

    Now onto the bad news:

    The crankshaft assembly is a single piece so it's not possible to separate the conrod for service, so if the main bearing on the rod is sloppy, you'll need a replacement crankshaft assembly. They can't be bought new, so if it's buggered you're looking at a saw to be broken for parts. No aftermarket versions available either, and don't be tempted to try a crank from a 257 or similar (also basically impossible to get anyway) as they're different. If you go searching for the crankshaft assembly it will be 501 87 69-01 and you'll find places online saying they have it in stock, in the US and UK. Don't bother, they don't. They'll take your money, back order it and eventually the order will be cancelled by Husqvarna. I've been through that rigmarole myself and eventually got a hold of someone in Stockholm who confirmed they don't have any, won't have any and that I should consider a new saw.

    Best thing to be done there is to check everything else out carefully and if you think it's good, have someone with small engine experience throw an eye over the crank for you and let you know if it's good or bad. Bad, scrap the saw.

    There are a few other things also all but impossible to get for the 254's, so some pictures would help if you'd like to know whether or not it's worth spending any time on it at all. You can't get flywheel air shrouds, cylinder covers and baffles, insulators for the adjusters on the Walbro carb screws, handle assemblies, generators, starter cover cases etc. Air filters can be very expensive. The inner chain guide plates have all but disappeared. All that stuff gets tatty, worn out, brittle with the years and the oil and petrol eating at it. Look carefully and decide as you go if something is too far gone to be useful. Brittle rubber bits in the wrong place will let a saw lean out and eat a piston in no time.

    A good saw can be worth a bit of effort and expense, but if it needs more than bearings, a gasket kit and carb rebuild, it's just not worth the trouble IMHO. A decent aftermarket piston kit will cost you 100ish on top, and you'd still not be able to change all the age related things best done when pulling the crankcase apart as you just can't get them any more.

    A picture (or more) will tell a thousand words though, so throw some up if you can and I'm sure more than just me will give their opinion if you want it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hi lads looking to get a big saw round 70cc or above. Iv found a jonsered 2166 for sale and just looking to see if any has experience with it. Is it good saw. Are parts easy got etc.. we have a few saws already at home from 40 to 60cc. So I'm looking to buy something for big timber so I dunno would I be better to go bigger again and not have to be short on power someday. I saw a stihl ms 660 for sale and wondering would this be a better buy? Plenty of power for any tree that might fall. I'm looking to buy second hand as I dont have that much use to justify buy a new big saw! Anything to look out for on these particular models or any model would ye suggest be a better buy!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    Hi lads looking to get a big saw round 70cc or above. Iv found a jonsered 2166 for sale and just looking to see if any has experience with it. Is it good saw. Are parts easy got etc.. we have a few saws already at home from 40 to 60cc. So I'm looking to buy something for big timber so I dunno would I be better to go bigger again and not have to be short on power someday. I saw a stihl ms 660 for sale and wondering would this be a better buy? Plenty of power for any tree that might fall. I'm looking to buy second hand as I dont have that much use to justify buy a new big saw! Anything to look out for on these particular models or any model would ye suggest be a better buy!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    would I be right in saying that jonsered are similar to husquavarna as in the were made of similar parts?.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    bassy wrote: »
    would I be right in saying that jonsered are similar to husquavarna as in the were made of similar parts?.

    Yes as far as I know jonsered are made by husqvarna.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 28 243bigbang


    bassy wrote: »
    would I be right in saying that jonsered are similar to husquavarna as in the were made of similar parts?.

    Yes as far as I know jonsered are made by husqvarna.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    243bigbang wrote: »
    Yes as far as I know jonsered are made by husqvarna.

    taught that alrite,but was,nt fully sure.so a jonsered would be a very good saw along with husky and stihl.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    The 2166 is similar to the 365/372, but don't make the mistake of thinking many of the parts are interchangeable as they're not really. Much better availability of parts for the orange saws compared to the red ones when they get a bit older too. As a relatively affordable saw to buy used, repair and maintain, the ginger Husqvarna 365 Special or 372XP is hard to beat. The 365 and its redhead cousin in the 2166 can both allow for an increase in power output if you open out the transfer ports, obviously assuming you match that with a carb kit and adjustment to suit. More messing around than I'd want to do myself for the sake of it but plenty have and there's good info online if that's your kind of thing. If you're not looking to horse the saw though they'll be fine as they are without modifications and all that.

    I suppose it depends very much on what kind of bar length and chain you want it to pull and the intended use, felling, milling etc and what you have already that would do the job well. I bought a 576XPG a few years back for harvesting and just can't fault it. The new 572XP's are also getting rave reviews and that's where my money would go if buying new today in the 70cc class. Both of those are still up around a grand for the powerhead and plenty for a large mount bar and 3/8 chains to suit. A lot of money for something that doesn't give a payback over time (if it's casual use and nobody pays for what you're doing) but they're a smashing good saw. Anyway, if your budget will allow it, a clean used 372XP would be my recommendation if you want a 'manual' saw in that size range and there are plenty available if you'd look for one on eBay UK or Germany for example. You'll get a good strong saw to use as it comes for around €500, give or take a ton or so, but have a look and see what you can find there.

    If you're looking for a saw for milling though on any sort of ongoing basis you need a bigger saw. 90cc upwards is where you want to be to pull chain on a 24" bar for milling. You can use a smaller powerhead but you'll hate it. Hate it. The jump from a 70cc up to a 90+cc saw makes a big difference. I have an old Solo 694 (90-something cc) for milling but one day I'll change that for a 3120XP for the extra power. Milling will nearly always benefit from more power. Don't underestimate the needs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,679 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    How do you find the Solo? I have a non running 667SP here that I was thinking of bringing back to life, just not sure it will be worth it.
    I ran my old Homelite Super XL AO yesterday for a laugh, its so old skool its not funny with no anti-vibe or chainbrake but it just demonstrates how far saws have evolved.
    I must throw some pics up of some of the saws I have, nothing big but I don't mill.
    Good way to pass the time in these challenging times.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    had my stihl ms-181 out today and it is losing power when trying to cut and it cuts out when I will it to sit when im moving timber.
    took the plug out cleaned it etc and checked the carb filter all seem ok.
    it seems to go full power for a bit,then its like its dying losing power and cuts out.any ideas lads ?.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    How do you find the Solo? I have a non running 667SP here that I was thinking of bringing back to life, just not sure it will be worth it.
    I ran my old Homelite Super XL AO yesterday for a laugh, its so old skool its not funny with no anti-vibe or chainbrake but it just demonstrates how far saws have evolved.
    I must throw some pics up of some of the saws I have, nothing big but I don't mill.
    Good way to pass the time in these challenging times.

    Heavy! Nice power, but comes with weight, noise and a fair bit of vibration. I'm not so keen on handling big saws much these days, but once it's mounted in the Alaskan mill and resting in the cut, I don't mind it too much.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    bassy wrote: »
    had my stihl ms-181 out today and it is losing power when trying to cut and it cuts out when I will it to sit when im moving timber.
    took the plug out cleaned it etc and checked the carb filter all seem ok.
    it seems to go full power for a bit,then its like its dying losing power and cuts out.any ideas lads ?.

    any help lads or advice ?.


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  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    bassy wrote: »
    any help lads or advice ?.


    Does the saw 'race' on you? Like, revving up very quickly. If so, don't run it again until you check for air leaks around the intake. If it's been doing that and now it won't stay running and is losing power, do a compression test. Might have a knackered piston or transferred aluminium onto the cylinder below the intake port. Hopefully nothing like that, but it's common enough and can happen very quickly without realising it if you're not in a position to notice it. Compression test and if that's not right, strip the cylinder out and see what's what.

    If compression is good it could be load of things really.

    Fuel filter, on the end of the fuel pickup hose end in the tank. Change it.

    Blocked vent/breather in the tank, creating a vacuum when the saws been running and starving the carb. You'll know it if you hear a sucking sound when you open the filler cap after it's been running. Easy to do on the husky saws, probably similar on the Stihls.

    Carb diaphragm could be perforated or a blocked needle could be the fault if it's constant. Look up the service manual, set it back to the defaults and if no better, consider putting a carb kit and new fuel line into the saw. If you use normal petrol and your own 2 stroke oil to make a mix it could be that the carb needs a kit anyway.

    Might also want to check the chain brake band and see if it's dragging on the clutch assembly. That will stall an idling saw and could hold down the power you get to the chain. Weak clutch springs (they age) might be the culprit or it could just need a good clean.

    If you need to clean stuff out I recommend the Stihl chainsaw cleaner spray bottle. It's a gel and you need to follow the instructions but it'll remove old sap, resin, burnt oil, everything. Don't leave it sitting on plastics for long. The instructions are easy and important. Money well spent and kinder on the saw seals and parts than kero or petrol, which is silly stuff to be using for that job anyway. I only mention it as I see plenty doing it.

    There's other things can cause you trouble but be methodical and try some of those and let us know how you get on first.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Does the saw 'race' on you? Like, revving up very quickly. If so, don't run it again until you check for air leaks around the intake. If it's been doing that and now it won't stay running and is losing power, do a compression test. Might have a knackered piston or transferred aluminium onto the cylinder below the intake port. Hopefully nothing like that, but it's common enough and can happen very quickly without realising it if you're not in a position to notice it. Compression test and if that's not right, strip the cylinder out and see what's what.

    If compression is good it could be load of things really.

    Fuel filter, on the end of the fuel pickup hose end in the tank. Change it.

    Blocked vent/breather in the tank, creating a vacuum when the saws been running and starving the carb. You'll know it if you hear a sucking sound when you open the filler cap after it's been running. Easy to do on the husky saws, probably similar on the Stihls.

    Carb diaphragm could be perforated or a blocked needle could be the fault if it's constant. Look up the service manual, set it back to the defaults and if no better, consider putting a carb kit and new fuel line into the saw. If you use normal petrol and your own 2 stroke oil to make a mix it could be that the carb needs a kit anyway.

    Might also want to check the chain brake band and see if it's dragging on the clutch assembly. That will stall an idling saw and could hold down the power you get to the chain. Weak clutch springs (they age) might be the culprit or it could just need a good clean.

    If you need to clean stuff out I recommend the Stihl chainsaw cleaner spray bottle. It's a gel and you need to follow the instructions but it'll remove old sap, resin, burnt oil, everything. Don't leave it sitting on plastics for long. The instructions are easy and important. Money well spent and kinder on the saw seals and parts than kero or petrol, which is silly stuff to be using for that job anyway. I only mention it as I see plenty doing it.

    There's other things can cause you trouble but be methodical and try some of those and let us know how you get on first.

    where are you located ?.

    just thinking I had a bottle of 2 stroke I found in the shed and it was there for a number of yrs and I used that in a petrol mix of 50:1 5 litres to 100ml 2 stroke.

    I wonder was it the 2 stroke,thinking about it now it was quite stupid of me to use that 2 stroke cause its yrs old.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    bassy wrote: »
    where are you located ?.

    just thinking I had a bottle of 2 stroke I found in the shed and it was there for a number of yrs and I used that in a petrol mix of 50:1 5 litres to 100ml 2 stroke.

    I wonder was it the 2 stroke,thinking about it now it was quite stupid of me to use that 2 stroke cause its yrs old.

    Was it oil for saws/machinery? If the bottle was sealed and you mixed it well, that won't be a problem. But dirt or rust in the petrol can could cause you problems also.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Was it oil for saws/machinery? If the bottle was sealed and you mixed it well, that won't be a problem. But dirt or rust in the petrol can could cause you problems also.

    it was 2 stroke oil in a bottle that had been opened years ago,but lid on bottle was closed tight.
    wonder those 2 stroke lose its purpose after been not used in years ??.

    if it was,nt properly mixed.as in not enough 2 stoke in the petrol would it give problems like I was having?.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Don't fixate on the bottle of 2 stroke. If it wasn't good, yes, it could cause problems. But if it was mixed in the correct ratio and the bottle was properly close (keeping moisture out) it's probably alright. That's assuming it was 2 stroke intended for saws and the likes, as opposed to 2 stroke for an outboard engine for a boat. So start at the top of the list and work your way down if you want to start digging out what's actually happening. Check compression first. If the compression is low, you may have a problem that needs you to pull to top end off the saw to inspect. If the compression is okay, check that the chain brake isn't dragging, then fit a new fuel filter and tank vent if needed etc. If that doesn't sort it, put a kit in the carb or get a replacement carb. One step at a time and work up to big problems and expense. You may well find that it's an easy/cheap fix. Compression first though. Any saw not running right and without an obvious issue, see if it has good compression before you decide to spend any time or money on it. It's a good indicator of the saws overall health and will let you decide early that it's worth investing something in fixing it, or not.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    JayZeus wrote: »
    Don't fixate on the bottle of 2 stroke. If it wasn't good, yes, it could cause problems. But if it was mixed in the correct ratio and the bottle was properly close (keeping moisture out) it's probably alright. That's assuming it was 2 stroke intended for saws and the likes, as opposed to 2 stroke for an outboard engine for a boat. So start at the top of the list and work your way down if you want to start digging out what's actually happening. Check compression first. If the compression is low, you may have a problem that needs you to pull to top end off the saw to inspect. If the compression is okay, check that the chain brake isn't dragging, then fit a new fuel filter and tank vent if needed etc. If that doesn't sort it, put a kit in the carb or get a replacement carb. One step at a time and work up to big problems and expense. You may well find that it's an easy/cheap fix. Compression first though. Any saw not running right and without an obvious issue, see if it has good compression before you decide to spend any time or money on it. It's a good indicator of the saws overall health and will let you decide early that it's worth investing something in fixing it, or not.

    the compression seems good :) the 2 stroke yes intended for saws as has a picture of a saw on the bottle etc
    I took the fuel filter out looks fine,but then again whos to say its not fine.


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  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    You said earlier it seems to go full power and then cuts out, right?

    Fuel starvation, or an air leak on the intake. It's one of those. If compression is actually good. A compression gauge isn't expensive.

    Make sure the carb and intake boot and all that bit is good and tight.

    If it is, change the fuel filter, fit a new fuel hose/line and put a carb/carb-kit into it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    JayZeus wrote: »
    You said earlier it seems to go full power and then cuts out, right?

    Fuel starvation, or an air leak on the intake. It's one of those. If compression is actually good. A compression gauge isn't expensive.

    Make sure the carb and intake boot and all that bit is good and tight.

    If it is, change the fuel filter, fit a new fuel hose/line and put a carb/carb-kit into it.

    will report back tomorrow when I go at it again,and thanks for your help.really appreciated :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    went at the saw today and my god does it take forever to start from cold,got it up and running and its fine now and running well.
    but another pain is when I leave it down it cuts out,tuning not correct?.
    got a new plug but came home with to big a wide head on the threaded part of the plug,the plug in the ms-181 is a skinny kind of threaded head.

    so 2 problems is it takes a age to start from cold and as I said it will cut out when left in idol as in when you leave it down to tick over it cuts out.so the are my only 2 problems now with the saw.

    I opened the petrol cap this morning on the saw and you could hear a gush for a second.


  • Posts: 3,637 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Don't know what else to add so I'll just repeat myself again.

    Another plug isn't going to fix it. If the one that's in it works, it's not fouled and it's gapped correctly, that's good enough. Use the one you bought to check that the magneto is generating enough current to fire the plug. Videos on youtube to show how I'm sure. But it runs with the plug that's in it, so this is irrelevant really for you. Including it so others can see the step in future if they're looking for a workflow to troubleshoot.

    Compression. Get a meter and give us the reading. You think it has good compression, but that's not a measurement. It matters, so get a meter and get the reading. You take the reading with the saw stone cold, and you use a cable tie to hold the throttle open while you pull the saw over a few times to build the pressure for a good reading on the gauge. Not being a dick but if you won't do that you're just guessing and nobody can help you there. Get a reading.

    Intake air leak. Did you check everything is tight and not perished/cracked? If there's a rubber boot on the intake, that's a likely culprit to have split or perished and if so it'll end up ruining the piston/cylinder etc. Check it. If you're not sure how, just look up the details online. I'm pretty sure there's a rubber boot on those saws, so don't ignore this advice.

    Chain brake, dragging clutch. Did you remove the clutch cover, clean and inspect the brake band for signs it's dragging and wearing, same on the outer face of the clutch rim? If you don't know what you're looking at, take it off, clean it and stick up a few pictures and we'll let you know.

    Reset the carb adjustment. Get the service/owners manual for details. Usually you GENTLY screw the idle and throttle adjustment screws all the way in, then out X number of turns. Do this carefully as tightening the screws too heavily will damage the jets/needles.

    Fuel filter, fuel line and carb kit. Replace the fuel filter and fuel line first if you want, then move on to rebuilding the carb with a new kit (€10) or replace it completely. Chinese carbs are cheap but if the saw is good otherwise I'd stick with a Walbro or whatever's on it from the factory.

    I'm trying to help, but you need to work through the list not just pick and choose to be fair.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,622 ✭✭✭bassy


    thanks jayzeus.

    when saw is cold I put the full choke on,and when im pulling to start I never hear that sound where you know its about to start where you can flick up the switch to the next setting and it should fire 2-3 pulls in that setting.

    aloso noticed the plug goes very black,i had it out the other day and cleaned it well.then had it out again and it was black again,is this normal?.


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