Detailing chat

punisher5112

LollipopJimmy wrote: »

I mentioned yesterday I wasn't 100% happy with the car but today in the sunshine and parked next to my neighbours car which was 'valeted' this morning it looks unreal. It has a wet look which I love.
My other neighbour asked to borrow my power hose, she's out there now cleaning the car with fairy and one of those sponges with the green scourer thing on them... nearly new saab

You should say do you want it looking like mine and get a few €s

Darraghmh91.

punisher5112 wrote: »

Did you look up tips on how to apply.

Always before applying get the wax warm/hot by placing in bucket of water as it will be so much easier to apply.

Just a matter of rubbing it in with a ufo pad and wiping off straight away it's simple to use and brings up a lovly shine

Yeah I do that with my colllinite845 id boil the kettle and let the water cool down for about 10 minutes and put my wax into it and makes life so much easier

LollipopJimmy

punisher5112 wrote: »

You should say do you want it looking like mine and get a few €s

Philistine wouldn't notice the difference

bennyx_o

Spent a lot of yesterday polishing the Lupo and I'm still not happy with it The drivers door where there was white staining is still faintly stained, and when going over it with the DA, the pad turned black which I didn't expect. Didn't happen on any other panels. Didn't have enough time to put any protection on it (Also don't want to because I'm not happy with how it's looking) May try get some Megs Microfibre pads or new Hexlogic ones with megs 105 & 205 to try make it look somewhat better.

EDIT: Some pictures of said area. Anyone have any ideas on how to get rid?

myshirt

It's like the clearcoat is peeling.... or some level of clearcoat damage... I'm unsure.. someone here may be better able to comment.

Has any polish / compound been left to dry in at any stage?

bennyx_o

Nope, only thing that dried on it was tar remover, but that was on it for maybe 5-6 mins at most. I'm think that's whats done the damage, and it'll probably have to be resprayed (was on the list thankfully)

vectra

Pad went black?
Either tar on the paint come off on the pad >> ( Hopefully )

Or

Strikethrough?
Are you after cutting through the lacquer?

challengemaster

Sounds like it was resprayed at some stage, badly judging by that

bennyx_o

vectra wrote: »

Pad went black?
Either tar on the paint come off on the pad >> ( Hopefully )

Or

Strikethrough?
Are you after cutting through the lacquer?

There shouldn't have been tar, and even if there was I doubt it was enough for the pad to turn fully black. Strikethrough I doubt too. I went with the same procedure as I went with the rest of the car and everything else was fine. I also tested a small area to see if the combination would have any affect.

challengemaster wrote: »

Sounds like it was resprayed at some stage, badly judging by that

The door has always looked a little faded when compared to the rest of the car, so it's quite possible it has been sprayed badly

myshirt

Side note... but just very quickly... vectra, aren't there some paints, like a soft one, or a single stage, that you may see transfer with in the normal course of business.

No experience of it myself, but loosely remember some guy who posted freaking out about paint transfer, only to find out it was the type of paint he had. Or so I believe.

Benny X was using a DA also... he couldn't have struck through could he... even on the hottest of days, and with an aggressive compound, should find that difficult.

MetzgerMeister

That panel was badly painted and I guarantee you, it looked "cloudy" compared to the rest of the car.

I detailed a cloudy Peugeot 106 a few months ago and this happened too. I was expecting it though, blue paint transferred onto the pad and the panel came up incredibly shiny.

I know it freaked you out but from those pictures it looks like your lacquer has peeled away and the paint underneath is coming onto the pad. It won't take long before you remove all that paint by using a D/A so stop and get it properly resprayed.

Here's a few pics of the one I did:

bennyx_o

I don't plan on going anywhere near it again with the DA! No point making it any worse than it already is

Mc Love

Quick question, what do I need to do get my wax etc off the car for re-application?

Curran

bennyx_o wrote: »

Unfortunately that looks like the clear coat is gone - Im be confident that panel has been repainted at some stage. Doubt you polished the original paint that much to strikethrough. The colour transfer would also confirm that you were no longer polishing the clear coat.

Curran

Mc Love wrote: »

Quick question, what do I need to do get my wax etc off the car for re-application?

Usually it you'd got through the full process of de-tar, clay, wash with APC.
If you've only applied it recently and the car had been clayed, a light coat of tar remover, and a wash down with a strong APC mix will probably be sufficient.

Mc Love

Yep clayed bottom half of car but not all, but thanks for the advice. Might try the washing with the strong apc mix and really want to try out my CarPro HydrO2

MetzgerMeister

Mc Love wrote: »

Quick question, what do I need to do get my wax etc off the car for re-application?

Citrus cleaner, a strong wash solution, washing up liquid, tar remover, IPA, clay.

Mc Love

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Citrus cleaner, a strong wash solution, washing up liquid, tar remover, IPA, clay.

All in that order?

randy hickey

These guys use petrol to strip their cars:

[IMG][/img]


Recognise anyone Metz?:D

MetzgerMeister

Mc Love wrote: »

All in that order?

Hah no, those are your options. you shouldn't need all of them!

I would go with a strong shampoo, de-tar, clay and another strong solution wash as part of a normal routine.

Then dry the whole car and do an IPA wipe-down to give yourself the best possible surface for adhesion.

Mc Love

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

Hah no, those are your options. you shouldn't need all of them!

I would go with a strong shampoo, de-tar, clay and another strong solution wash as part of a normal routine.

Then dry the whole car and do an IPA wipe-down to give yourself the best possible surface for adhesion.

I know hence the smiley, i am just waiting for the cg wheel guard to dry and then I'm going to try out the HydrO2. I did polish it and black car syndrome, i find some tar

punisher5112

Hi all what's best way to prepare grill and other plastics for c.quartz flux plastic protection its says semi permanent and got off Curran.

I have so much to do to get the vRS back looking well its been neglected a bit the last few months.

Hal1

Just got a bargains alert from a price watch site I use. The Kärcher K4 Water-Cooled Pressure Washer is now €175 on amazon.

Curran

A good APC wash first and get the surface as clean as possible. Then CarPro Eraser is the ideal wipedown prep for CQuartz DLUX.

punisher5112

Curran wrote: »

A good APC wash first and get the surface as clean as possible. Then CarPro Eraser is the ideal wipedown prep for CQuartz DLUX.

probably should have ordered that 2 as would like one of those crazy towels also.

I am really thinking of getting a wet/dry vac any deals on any that yee know of ?

Hal1

Numatic 'george' GVE 370. It's a good machine for carpet cleaning, it does a lot more than that though.

http://www.numatic.co.uk/products4.aspx?id=28

I got mine from cleanstore.co.uk

challengemaster

Trying to figure out what sort of snow foam lance coupling I need to get... It's complicated because this is the pressure washer

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pro-User-Petrol-Pressure-Washer/dp/B00IXBI3UW

MetzgerMeister

With pressure like that, you don't need snow foam :pac:

MyStubbleItches

Where do you guys get your IPA?

vectra

MyStubbleItches wrote: »

Where do you guys get your IPA?

Local chemist
Or I think Mr.Detail have it in stock.

Detailingshed have a wipedown.